I have angered the Cruiser Gods (1 Viewer)

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I just rebuilt it and it looked nice and smooth inside. I rebuilt it because it was previously losing fluid out of the rear without an apparent leak so I assume it leaked into the booster.
Sounds like an opportunity to do it again.
 
I have a honing tool but was afraid to use it! I shoved a rag down in there and got it squeaky clean, it appeared clean and smooth. I did pull it apart to make sure I didn't do anything wrong when rebuilding and everything looked good. I reassembled and ran around the block again and the same thing happened. :(
 
I've always been taught to hone the cyldr during a rebuild. It helps the seals seat to the cyldr and trues the cyldrs walls. When you start honing you will see low spots and imperfections in the cyldr. The low spots are where fluid can get around the seals. If you can't hone out those low spots, it usually indicates the cylder is shot. If there's some slight low spots after honing you can try assembling it, you my get lucky.
 
I've always been taught to hone the cyldr during a rebuild. It helps the seals seat to the cyldr and trues the cyldrs walls. When you start honing you will see low spots and imperfections in the cyldr. The low spots are where fluid can get around the seals. If you can't hone out those low spots, it usually indicates the cylder is shot. If there's some slight low spots after honing you can try assembling it, you my get lucky.
Thank you, good thing I bought a lot of brake fluid and gloves, lol. I read all the comments on other threads where people said not to bother to try to rebuild the cylinder, it appeared easy enough, guess I know why now! LOL!!! Ugh!
 
If you can't get your stk cylder ti work, you might try rebuilding the aftermarket cyldr. Hone it and install your quality rebuild kit into it.
 
After crapping out so fast, I don't think I even want to mess with the aftermarket one anymore! I am curious to tear it apart however, to see why it failed. I read that a lot of people here upgraded to use the master from an 80 series. Maybe I should just go that route :meh:
 
Can you tell us which nut was lost off the M/C. ?
Also, here's a picture of my carb / brake M/C. showing where the green plug to the ICS / slow cut solenoid goes on the carb, I noticed you had reworked yours. . .

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I repainted my Aircleaner can, and have a half-desmog going on, there's golf tees and bottle corks at play, the air rail has been removed and the head injectors are plugged. The EGR is also deleted.

(edit) I see you have a header, so maybe you have desmog too?
 
It was the one on the inside bottom. I have stopped the search and have allowed it to be my gift to the CG (Cruiser Gods, lol). If it was a M8 bolt it still would have irritated me not to be able to find it, but sayonara. Nuts with the washer built in however, I only have a few.

Thanks for the pics! I was trying to find where that wire to the idle solenoid should be wired along the frame rail and googled images. I didn't think there was a place for the connector to attach. Thanks again! And my desmog was done by a PO, but I have had it for almost 20 years. I need to go look at my "gotcha date!"
 
Those nuts with the lockwasher attached are unique, like Land Cruisers.
If you need future replacements, check a hardware store for 'flange nuts' still rare to find them. Or go Toyota $pecific.
I wonder if the runaway got under the carb insulator, but since you have a header, there would be more space below the manifold?
Also, do you have a carb cooling fan? I do not believe the '77 was stocked with one, and I may retro-fit one to mine, if I can figger out how to power it !
 
Second picture, lower right- is that a good piston?
 
Did you put the stop pin screw at the right place when you rebuilt it? I have not seen the pin break through aluminum like that, but there is always a first
I didn't do anything to this before I installed it, didn't even bench bleed it. This was the aftermarket one I tore apart to see why it failed, well... easy to see why it failed, came like this new.
 
I didn't do anything to this before I installed it, didn't even bench bleed it. This was the aftermarket one I tore apart to see why it failed, well... easy to see why it failed, came like this new.
Return for refund?
What brand aftermarket? Local auto parts store usually goes with Cardone, and lately I see that Denso may be not-so-good. . .
 
Wonder if someone snuck a damaged product back into circulation via refund?
 

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