Substantial coolant leak somewhere under upper air intake manifold (1 Viewer)

[Joshwho44]

I did the throttle body hoses with my PHH as they were all in rough shape. These are the bypase hose part #s that I used. There might have been one that I didn't need, maybe someone else can chime in. They were a pain in the butt to install, but hose pliers would have helped tremendously!

#1 bypass hose 1626166040
#2 bypass hose 1626466021
#3 bypass hose 1626766020
#4 bypass hose 9955510200

You can see the one of the hoses here:

 

[sbrodacz]

Phh

 

[WarWagon]

I just went through this a week ago a after buying my LX and trying to get her home. If it's the PHH you should be able to see it clearly with a bright light from the DS wheel well. My guess from your description is its the throttle body hose! Took me and my buddy 4 hours (winging it) to swap mine out so I could get back to North GA. Go ahead and slap yourself silly because this hose is a PITA. Top end hooks under the throttle body so go ahead and remove that (get a throttle body gasket while your at it). The fun part is threading your hand from underneath to unclamp the old hose and attach the new. Do yourself a favor and get new clamps!! I bought the same size (but not OEM) heater hose from Auto Zone and it seems to have worked so far. I was in a pinch and it was 7pm on a Sat night. If you can go ahead and get the OEM hose.

It took two of us to do it; but we got it done.

 

[Aloha Jen]

Like I wrote.... throttle coolant hoses. They would leak from higher up than the PHH. From what you just wrote, seems likely that is where you leak is coming from.

Check the hose into (and there's one out of) the throttle body too. They would cause a leak from up the top area of the intake.

cheers,
george.

Thanks George I really appreciate your input, that probably is the problem hose, I just wanted to rule out the PHH. I will search in that area around the throttle coolant hoses to see if I can find where the leak is coming from.

In your opinion, If I need to replace would it be better to go with the OEM hoses or are the silicon hoses a better/more long term option?

 

[Aloha Jen]

I just went through this a week ago a after buying my LX and trying to get her home. If it's the PHH you should be able to see it clearly with a bright light from the DS wheel well. My guess from your description is its the throttle body hose! Took me and my buddy 4 hours (winging it) to swap mine out so I could get back to North GA. Go ahead and slap yourself silly because this hose is a PITA. Top end hooks under the throttle body so go ahead and remove that (get a throttle body gasket while your at it). The fun part is threading your hand from underneath to unclamp the old hose and attach the new. Do yourself a favor and get new clamps!! I bought the same size (but not OEM) heater hose from Auto Zone and it seems to have worked so far. I was in a pinch and it was 7pm on a Sat night. If you can go ahead and get the OEM hose.

It took two of us to do it; but we got it done.

Thanks for your reply, I remember reading your posts last week as you were working through the problem. Your experience makes me discouraged....as I was going to try and take it on by myself. My husband gets back in 2 days, but I am probably more mechanically inclined then he is, so it would still be like the blind leading the blind! Do you remember what size hoses they were? I know you recommended the OEM hoses, but would a good quality silicon hose be adequate/better? I would have to wait a week or two to get OEM hoses, and wanted to attempt to fix this sooner then that (like tonight!). Thanks.

 

[Zimbwanabe]

Misery loves company. I always recruit a helper on tough jobs. If I'm alone, frustrated and pissed off, it makes the job even harder. Just having someone around to hand you a tool, or jump in and actually help makes the job more fun, and less of a hassle.

 

[WarWagon]

3/8 heater hose is what I used; if you can somehow manage to get the bottom end of the hose on with a new clamp then you would just need to remove the throttle body to remove the top end of the hose and attach the new.

Neither job is easy....took us about 3-4 hours; short beer breaks of course.

Remove the old hose and cut to match length. Get new (small) hose clamps.

 

[DSRTRDR]

It's right next to the horsepower your missing.

 

[LS1FJ40]

It's right next to the horsepower your missing.

I wouldn't say I'm missing it...

 

[NLXTACY]

I wouldn't say I'm missing it...

Right there is how your wife has stayed with you for as long as she has. Loves you for your faults. You are the same with the 3FE.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Right there is how your wife has stayed with you for as long as she has. Loves you for your faults. You are the same with the 3FE.

See, I look at it more like, my wife is the 3FE. She does what she is supposed to do. Always gets it done and never gets mad. Or blows a gasket. The 1FZ-FE is the crazy chick you meet at a bar that somehow figures out where you live and shows up at 2am for a booty call. At first you're all "Hey, this is freaking awesome!" Then she blows a gasket and pukes all over your bed. Sure you got to go really fast and have a few minutes of fun but you got a lot of time cleaning it up.

Sorry for the hijack... Back to tech. It's the PHH and the other hose. Replace them both and be done with it for another 100k miles...

 

[LS1FJ40]

And don't do the silicone unless you can get the good constant tension clamps. I don't remember what they are but you NEED these or it will leak. If it was me I would use rubber hose but I don't have a PHH so take my advice for what it's worth.

 

[retrofive]

See, I look at it more like, my wife is the 3FE. She does what she is supposed to do. Always gets it done and never gets mad. Or blows a gasket. The 1FZ-FE is the crazy chick you meet at a bar that somehow figures out where you live and shows up at 2am for a booty call. At first you're all "Hey, this is freaking awesome!" Then she blows a gasket and pukes all over your bed. Sure you got to go really fast and have a few minutes of fun but you got a lot of time cleaning it up.

Sorry for the hijack... Back to tech. It's the PHH and the other hose. Replace them both and be done with it for another 100k miles...

You're becoming a short wob joke at this point.
/chat

 

[sbman]

I wouldn't worry about which hose has the problem, replace them all.

I think that any vehicle that is pushing 20 years old is going to need all of it's coolant hoses replaced. Every coolant line in the diagrams posted should be replaced and then you are good for another 15-20 years. Mileage doesn't even matter that much. Otherwise it's just going to be a long frustrating process of a new hose popping every few months, and each time that happens you may overheat the motor, plus the frustration factor of always having some kind of cooling system issue. Use OEM if you like or get Gates stuff. The Gates hoses are good quality, but they may not fit as nicely or as easily. Some of the heater hoses are going to be very difficult, not in skill required, but in access and struggle. You can either re-use the OEM clamps, or get some good Ideal or Breeze clamps. Napa has Ideal (it's NAPA branded I think) behind the counter in some orange boxes. If you keep the heater, you need a BUNCH, it's like $80 just in clamps and you need three or four sizes. When I did mine I bought all my local napa had, then had to go to another store to get more. Both the ideal and breeze clamps have a smooth metal guard over slots in the clamp that keeps it from digging into the hose.

In HI, I'm not sure you even need a heater, maybe you could bypass the entire cabin heater(s) system and just replace the coolant hoses that are left, that removes a world of hurt from the job!

If I had to do the hose replacement with engine in place, I'd hire someone to do it personally. It was plenty of work with the motor OUT, I don't have the patience to struggle with some of those heater hoses in place.

 

[Tredwards]

I replaced all the hoses myself. Just do it when you do a drain and flush of the rad. I switched to green when I did it. This was the first pm I did and before this I had no mechanic experience than oil changes. I bought the Silicon hoze kit for the phh and then the oem hoses for the curved hoses including the throttle body hose. The rest I used I gates green stripe hoses. It is a big job but is doable. Also get new radiator hoses if inclined. Unfortunately 3mo after all this work my original radiator blew the top tank. New oem rad now. I feel alot better with essentially a new coolant system. Btw I also replaced all fuel lines, vaccuum hoses, etc under the hood. Still not a bad job just time consuming. I originally took the cruiser to a shop to change the hoses and they only got the ones that were visible, so I ended up doing myself anyway. One more instance where I learned I'm better off just working on my cruiser myself.

 

[LifeOverland]

Thanks to this thread I just found my 'mystery' coolant leak. The Throttle bypass hose. I've already changed (bypassed) the PHH, but didn't even realize the throttle body bypass existed! Mine is really loose on the block nipple, it's a formed hose seemingly OEM, but way WAY too loose. Getting it loose wasn't too bad with a 1/4" drive and swivel end.

 

[middlecalf]

Well, live and learn from an old post. I do (and have done) all the maintenance on my cruiser rigs over the years, except for the “new” cruiser, our 1997 FJ80 with the 1FZ. I’d do the routine maintenance things like oil, lube, etc. but bigger items I‘d pay the dealer to fix/maintain. We bought this rig new, it’s now around 305k miles. Been a strong runner, our main transport and commute rig. So with that, I’ve never heard of the PHH and it’s associated issues, along with all of the other pesky coolant-carrying hoses on the driver’s side lower block. So, on the way home from church last Sunday, one or more of these burst. And it got shuttled to the dealership 45 miles away (we‘re in a rural area), and got the high $ quote from the dealer to fix it. All labor due to the removal of the intake manifold which is the standard method I guess. Anyway, now I know about this crappy design, no maintenance item should require this amount of removal. Hoses are maintenance items. Nuff bitchen for today .

 

[ajax1]

Well, live and learn from an old post. I do (and have done) all the maintenance on my cruiser rigs over the years, except for the “new” cruiser, our 1997 FJ80 with the 1FZ. I’d do the routine maintenance things like oil, lube, etc. but bigger items I‘d pay the dealer to fix/maintain. We bought this rig new, it’s now around 305k miles. Been a strong runner, our main transport and commute rig. So with that, I’ve never heard of the PHH and it’s associated issues, along with all of the other pesky coolant-carrying hoses on the driver’s side lower block. So, on the way home from church last Sunday, one or more of these burst. And it got shuttled to the dealership 45 miles away (we‘re in a rural area), and got the high $ quote from the dealer to fix it. All labor due to the removal of the intake manifold which is the standard method I guess. Anyway, now I know about this crappy design, no maintenance item should require this amount of removal. Hoses are maintenance items. Nuff bitchen for today .

You don’t have to remove the intake for any of that, the throttle body lines take about 30 min if you know what your doing, hr or so for the phh if you got lift on the rig and squeeze between the fender and tire. Or you can pull the throttle body out the way and valve cover to help with the phh

 

[Kernal]

middlecalf: what did the dealer quote/charge you for the PHH replacement,
did they use piece of aftermarket hose or order the complete PHH pipe and hose??

And while they were in there what else did they do, any of the bypass hoses??

 

[effjay80]

I thought the Pesky and Pesky bypass neighbor were easy-peasy with the throttle body off and the front left wheel and skirts removed. I was expecting Armageddon but pleasantly disappointed.