UPR LC
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Comments in this youtube video he states, 3" body lift, 2" fender cut and rolled the fenders.
Just to add to the discussion.
A 200 is meant to have 37’s (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter LC200JG
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Comments in this youtube video he states, 3" body lift, 2" fender cut and rolled the fenders.
Just to add to the discussion.
Monica is such a great inspiration to build after. Humble mall crawler LX turned ruf and tuf baja bruiser. There's a few notable lightweight builds on here I admire, that follow in that concept - @MTKID , @turbo8 . Too few in my mind as most builds follow the recipe of bolt on more. Heavier springs. Which I get as they're building for a different use case. But perhaps some really could have more from less. I've read that article back in the day with great interest.
I'm playing with my own interpretation at the moment. As I still need it to tow and it has family duties, trying to get the most that I can out of the AHC system, which has its own merits. I haven't written it up yet, but I'm now able to get almost 11" travel front and back (stock 9" F and 10" R). This is with stock AHC shocks that have limited travel. I believe the 15" total travel. Plus that fat tire sidewall travel. We're not constrained by race rules, so add in a long travel Tundra arm setup, and even more is possible.
On bump stops. Can likely get even lower if compressing said stops
Fully drooped out. Note this is on 35s, so the fender gap is even bigger than what may appear with smaller tires.
Yeah, possibly they made more aggressive changes to the truck over the few years they had it. The even did the facelift after it became available.
I’ve been admiring this photo where the King shocks/coilovers can run up through the top factory strut perch on Monica. Makes me think a little more up travel for us that are on larger tires wouldn’t hurt at all.
I know nothing is as simple as it looks but I enjoy examining the possibilities like @TeCKis300
and great job modifying that strut! If only we could find a company to modify them for longer extension and keep the AHC function.
I know nothing is as simple as it looks but I enjoy examining the possibilities like @TeCKis300
and great job modifying that strut! If only we could find a company to modify them for longer extension and keep the AHC function.
I was picturing an additional shock hoop welded to the frame.
I’ve been admiring this photo where the King shocks/coilovers can run up through the top factory strut perch on Monica. Makes me think a little more up travel for us that are on larger tires wouldn’t hurt at all.
View attachment 3027914
I know nothing is as simple as it looks but I enjoy examining the possibilities like @TeCKis300
and great job modifying that strut! If only we could find a company to modify them for longer extension and keep the AHC function.
Wondering if you really can take advantage of more uptravel with as big of a tire as you have? Even with the bodylift? Though to really use such a thing, need longer stroke shocks as I'm pretty much pegging the droop and compression with the geometry I have.
I think if you stacked about 16mm-20mm worth of upper mount brackets like I did, and paired it with Tundra long travel arms, it'd be at about 12" travel.
I agree a hoop would be possible with enough structure welded in. May be an opportunity to tie in the UCA brackets in double sheer as Tacoma's and 4Runners like to do as theirs tends to bend and bind with significant loads. Then again, if Monica doesn't need it, maybe it's plenty robust enough?
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Sorry for the late reply. Haven't been active lately. I do like to ride around on my 35's much better. I. bought a second set of stock wheels and switch them out for when I go adventuring. The worst part for city/daily driving is not being able to turn full stop to stop. Not to mention I'm plenty high even a little too high for the kids with the 35's much less 37's. When I do go crawling I get inner fender rubbing front and rear that I don't mind too much.As I understand it, Monica has about a 3” body lift and about 3” of fender trimming too. But when you’re getting that rowdy, you make sure things clear
@LC200JG how has this been performing for you since installation? I chose to use big squishy bumpstops in the front to help limit uptravel or at least help keep a hard impact of my 37’s into the fender if it were to happen. I have both the Durobumps and the Timbrens on the front. I don’t think any interference could happen with everything I’ve done but possibly when I try a larger tire
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Taking longer than expected, but rear complete, and front passenger back together. Front drivers apart for chopping
- tundra swap front end
- 1.25” spacer
- front fender trimmed by 2-3”. Trimming of metal support by AIR pumps
- body mount chopped pretty aggressively
- pinch weld cut and hammered flat. Gonna cut and weld it later.
But the 37 clears full bump lock to lock
- tundra swap front end
- 1.25” spacer
- front fender trimmed by 2-3”. Trimming of metal support by AIR pumps
- body mount chopped pretty aggressively
- pinch weld cut and hammered flat. Gonna cut and weld it later.
But the 37 clears full bump lock to lock
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Back on the ground! Body lift pucks are at the house but not installed yet. To do is 3M VHB tabs to the cut fender and wheel well for fender liners and to cover the rocker panel gap. There’s enough room that I may be able to modify the old stock splashguard to fit as well. Rear plastic bumper will need the same treatment. Sway bar end links bind, so I am building new ones with rod ends, should be ready to test this week. She wide… this shot is in normal.
Curious about actual "lift," did you do the sensor lift? Assuming the 1.25" spacer you mentioned is a wheel spacer.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
no sensor lift at all - 1.25” was wheel spacers. At ride height my lower control arms are parallel to the ground
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Update on sway bar - angles are just too crap. Cut the front of the bucket on the lower control arm and am going to extend it out about 1/2 inch. Should get the links in the right spot and put it back into double sheer.
Did you try on the 37's before the tundra swap? Wonder if they would have cleared without cutting the front fender.
With my 315's I see an inch of clearance everywhere except my un-chopped body mount and the rear of the rear wheel well. Would have to remove the mudflaps and heat and reshape or leave off for good to go to 37's. There is so much room in the front of the rear wheel well tho it's a shame.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Tried the 37 first on stock suspension with a wheel spacer (sadly required for rock warriors), but it hit the frame and sway bar, even with the body mount chopped. Even without the tundra part you are cutting the fender. 37s eat up the stock fenders, no way around it that I could see.
@nwfl4runner I would LOVE to see more pics!
nwfl4runner
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It’s a deal, I need to get this thing out onto some trails! All I’ve got now is the cut swaybar bucket, as I try to figure out ride height angles and spacers (on the rod ends) so it doesn’t bind.
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nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
got the endlink bucket extensions welded on last night. If I was doing it over again I would absolutely cut and weld this as step 1 of the tundra swap, unless you love cramped/overhead/on jack stands welding. Used 1/8” fully welded to the old bucket. I’ll run it for a few weeks and check. May bend a larger U to connect all 3 pieces later.
Gosh dang it! I have this unidentified disease where when people tell me I can't do something I just have to prove them wrong. I wish there was a treatment for this horrible affliction.
I, for some reason, have lots of room off the frame and sway bar. Could be the fact that I am running a super narrow wheel that I don't think I've ever seen anyone run before. Need to make a few accommodations, but I think I may try to throw some 37's on mine with "stock" suspension.
Taking bets on if it will clear, tuck, and not rub anywhere, or if I may leave a fender on the streets of Denver.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Love it! I had to run spacers in the rear to clear the Timbren offroad bumps. It tucks in the rear no problem, this was with the spring removed and the tire actually resting against the top of the wheel well. You have to cut a small bit of the rear pinch weld out on each side, no way around it:
Granted, below is with the tundra arms, but this is also with the shock out, at full lock, but NOT at full bump. I think that's 2" of fender cut. I wish I had taken pictures with the stock arms (as I tried seeing if I could just get by with spacers). But you can see how it eats up the front on turns. I ended up cutting another 3/4", basically to the "line" on the fender. The Dissent bumper wings then got cut and rewelded about 3" shorter. Full lock is a lot further than I think people give it credit for, and at full bump I was slapping the frame rail on stock arms, even with a spacer.
