What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (55 Viewers)

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Ouch, I hadn't seen this before Roma. Hopefully everyone was okay. Looked like a couple of very nice cruisers. Tuesday 100 series much easier to replace than the 40 series. Looks like you have a engine and full floating axle strapped down. Even though I don't have brakes when I flat tow I perfer to my car hauler. That did look like a sweet 79+ FJ40. Nice roof rack and one of 4+ brush guard. Hopefully was an 83. 79/80?
That actually happened in 2015. The 40 was a 75 model that my friend Tucker and I spent 3 years restoring. Shouldn't have even been on the trailer, we were headed to Moab and decided to ride together in the 100. We reincarnated it one could say with some undamaged parts and another 75 that was 24 units newer. The new one got an h55f, hz diesel, and cable locked axles front and back. V2 is actually a better rig.

One on the left here. We finished it 2016 or 2017

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Tucker ended up putting an ARB bumper on it and a Bowfin roof rack and I think the only other thing that changed was the addition of some FJ company aluminum reproduction 16'' wheels.

2019.jpg
 
That actually happened in 2015. The 40 was a 75 model that my friend Tucker and I spent 3 years restoring. Shouldn't have even been on the trailer, we were headed to Moab and decided to ride together in the 100. We reincarnated it one could say with some undamaged parts and another 75 that was 24 units newer. The new one got an h55f, hz diesel, and cable locked axles front and back. V2 is actually a better rig.

One on the left here. We finished it 2016 or 2017

View attachment 3041148

Tucker ended up putting an ARB bumper on it and a Bowfin roof rack and I think the only other thing that changed was the addition of some FJ company aluminum reproduction 16'' wheels.

View attachment 3041149
“The new one got an h55f, hz diesel, and cable locked axles front and back.”

Can you post some pics of the cable locker install, particularly the location of the actuators?
 
Did some rust migration on the front cowl before it had a chance to get more invasive. Thankfully when dremeling down to metal, I found that rust hadn't progressed below the seam. Looks like I caught it in time.

Two coats of rust converter. Need to get a new color matched rattle can (because my Dune Beige is not quite a match the T416 color) for the top coat.

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That actually happened in 2015. The 40 was a 75 model that my friend Tucker and I spent 3 years restoring. Shouldn't have even been on the trailer, we were headed to Moab and decided to ride together in the 100. We reincarnated it one could say with some undamaged parts and another 75 that was 24 units newer. The new one got an h55f, hz diesel, and cable locked axles front and back. V2 is actually a better rig.

One on the left here. We finished it 2016 or 2017

View attachment 3041148

Tucker ended up putting an ARB bumper on it and a Bowfin roof rack and I think the only other thing that changed was the addition of some FJ company aluminum reproduction 16'' wheels.

View attachment 3041149

Looking again see the bezel is round. Bar from brush guard thought I saw a square bezel.

“The new one got an h55f, hz diesel, and cable locked axles front and back.”

Can you post some pics of the cable locker install, particularly the location of the actuators?

X2 on the cable lockers. Still waiting to get my cable locker diffs. The control cables is my interest. Would be a little different in a 1/79+.
 
Looking again see the bezel is round. Bar from brush guard thought I saw a square bezel.



X2 on the cable lockers. Still waiting to get my cable locker diffs. The control cables is my interest. Would be a little different in a 1/79+.
There are a few things involved with installing the factory cable locks into 40 axle housings.
1. housings need to be clearanced for the locking hub
2. custom long side front axle shaft with extended splines (in theory a 70 series variant exists but are unavailable, the other option would be aftermarket longfields 30/30/30 spline)
3. custom cables to operate. This is the cleanest and simplest solution. Some people use factory levers but these are generally much more cumbersome mechanisms and the factory cables are rarely in good shape.
 
There are a few things involved with installing the factory cable locks into 40 axle housings.
1. housings need to be clearanced for the locking hub
2. custom long side front axle shaft with extended splines (in theory a 70 series variant exists but are unavailable, the other option would be aftermarket longfields 30/30/30 spline)
3. custom cables to operate. This is the cleanest and simplest solution. Some people use factory levers but these are generally much more cumbersome mechanisms and the factory cables are rarely in good shape.

I understand about the notch in the axle housing for factory diff lockers. Same with the two longer studs. Know about both front and back long spline inner axles. Have both 60 and 70 series for the front. 70 series will work for the 40 series. The rear 60 and 70 series will work on the 40 series since it the same inner axle. It's control cables need to figure out.
 
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I painted the 4 speed I recently finished rebuilding and installed some funky plate on top. Also jockeyed around a couple cruisers to get my blue 1970 in the shop to hopefully receive this 4 speed transplant.
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Tell us what happened….
I've lost multiple oil caps over the years, I drove off the other day and forgot to put the fuel cap back on and close the fuel door.
This pic was taken a quarter mile down the trail after filling up.
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Lucky for me the fuel cap was sitting on the running board.
The radiator cap was the only part that had a hole for a chain, atleast that was my impression.
 
I would not do that for the radiator cap. It can get bound on the fan if ya forget and cause radiator damage.
I was under the impression that some rad caps come with a chain. Thought @ToyotaMatt sells them like that. I'll keep what you said in mind. Of all the caps I remove, that is the least frequent of the three.
 

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