The 4x4 always seemed way overkill. 2x4x1/8” would be plenty unless you plan on pivoting your rig on rocks against the rockers, then you might want to step up to 1/4”. The heavier the material the more weight it is pulling against the lower door jams and spotwelds and floorpans. One of the reasons I just capped my rockers short with 14ga sheetmetal and will be running frame mounted rockers.
If you do intend on welding tubing in place of the rockers, I’d recommend leaving as much of the inner side of the OEM rocker in place to give you a second angle and anchor point to weld the tubing to for strength and squa
my rockers are beat up so bad they are not repairable without replacing them i am looking for a solution and though this might be a good one not to ugly and a little stronger than original
Says the one that ummm, mmmmm, twisted there driveshaft in half
FJ55 Sliders (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CarmMontana
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Says the one that ummm, mmmmm, twisted there driveshaft in half
Twice!
thanks for the info my sons 55 rockers are in bad shape so we re thinking of putting 3x4x1/8 or 3/16 we will see how it goes this has been helpful
I would do at least 3/16, if not 1/4 wall. 1/8" wall has no place on sliders. My slee bumper on my 80 is bent up because they used some weak ass 1/8" plate.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
I only say that because *most* 55’s aren’t really getting wheeled hard enough anymore to need heavy wall sliders. OEM rockers are ~20ga, BobM’s are like 16ga. 1/8” is more than double that. But yes, if you think you’ll be wheeling hard enough that you might actually hit a slider, go thicker. By all means, go thicker.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Nicely done! Was it tricky to join to the rear wheel lip?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I wasn’t terrible. I had an extra set of front pig lips, so I just welded the piece on. It did take a little filler to smooth it in, but I wanted the lip there to add a little detail to an otherwise long, plain section of steel. It will probably be the first piece to get whacked on a rock, but who cares? Honestly, you are the first person who has mentioned it! I’m glad you noticed!
Those are nice do you have any specs on those. Exactly what I am looking for. I got a guy who can build he just not a cruiser guy..
Looks really good
Hey mate,
They're made from 40x30 Square Tube, 3mm Thick. Barwork is 40nb 3.2mm thick. Brackets are custom.
I'm building my rear sliders next weekend, will throw a few measurements your way.
It's not such an old thread and the title fits. And it saves somebody the trouble of linking to this thread if i started a new one.
I'm in a quandry with my sliders.
WAY back in the day, when I first started wheeling my Pig i got beat up pretty good. Quickly made a front bumper out of 5" C channel and a pair of sliders out of 4" x 1/4" angle. Bolted everything up. Even the sliders.
Yup, just drilled some holes in the stock rockers and bolted the angle to them. Probably Wall of Shame material but it worked. This was about 35 years ago. I do use them hard, do pivot around rocks with them. Doing the Rudithon in a couple months, again.
So I'm taking a hard look at what I'm running. Dropped one of the angles off today to help me think...
I'm in a quandry with my sliders.
WAY back in the day, when I first started wheeling my Pig i got beat up pretty good. Quickly made a front bumper out of 5" C channel and a pair of sliders out of 4" x 1/4" angle. Bolted everything up. Even the sliders.
Yup, just drilled some holes in the stock rockers and bolted the angle to them. Probably Wall of Shame material but it worked. This was about 35 years ago. I do use them hard, do pivot around rocks with them. Doing the Rudithon in a couple months, again.
So I'm taking a hard look at what I'm running. Dropped one of the angles off today to help me think...
The dents in the rocker are pre-armor. Not all the rust is. But, darn it, they work. The bolts look Mickey Mouse, but, Pighead.
What existing bolt holes in the sheetmetal are ovaled, but add flexibility.
So, the quandry: do i do the right thing and cut off the remains of the stock rockers, buy some 2x4 steel, grind and POR and weld and stuff, or do the other right thing and just maybe trim some stuff and bolt the old armor back on, maybe more bolts, cover all that up and forget about it?
What existing bolt holes in the sheetmetal are ovaled, but add flexibility.
So, the quandry: do i do the right thing and cut off the remains of the stock rockers, buy some 2x4 steel, grind and POR and weld and stuff, or do the other right thing and just maybe trim some stuff and bolt the old armor back on, maybe more bolts, cover all that up and forget about it?
Cut that sheet off and start over with the 2x4 tubing. Weld the ends up nice and pretty then roll on some of the bedliner.
Agree. The 2x4 tubing is tough and when welded to the frame will provide much more strength as a true rocker while the angle steel bolted to the rusty rocker will just continue to hold in moisture this continue to grow rust.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
I would cut the outer radiused portion off and leave the inner, vertical portion. Then you can just get a raduised piece of angle or something similar to replace the outer.
im not gonna fab brackets
i could do that though. radiused angle? thats a thing?
I only know one guy who rolled his own.
landcruisnman
1972 FJ55 "Iron Giant"
Weld 2x4 to body all around. More clearance than your angle.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
It’s a thing if you make it a thing. Not just a piece of regular angle iron with a sharp corner, but something that was put in a press or a brake and formed with a softer corner. Or maybe even with a couple of bends made so that it’s not just a harsh 90* angle.
