Another One!... 1994 FZJ80 LS/4L60E Swap (Budget, Hopefully) (1 Viewer)

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Keeping in the same bundle of wires as the AC controls on the Toyota side, getting the oil pressure gauge to read on the dash was easy. I used this adapter: Amazon product ASIN B015NFNC10 to thread in the port on the bac of the block. The 1/8 NPT is so close to the pitch of the 1/8 BPST of the Toyota oil pressure sender, that I just wrapped in teflon tape. No leaks. I did have a leak at first because of the crush washer. Switch the steel crush waster on the adapter out for a copper one and you're good to go. For the sender, I used part no. 83520-60011

The Toyota oil pressure sensor wire is in that same bundle that runs along that passenger side inner fender. Check out your EWD to verify color. If you have a power probe you can trigger it to make sure it is the right one if you want, but this is pretty cut and dry. I cut mine to the correct length and crimped a new terminal and connector on, but you can keep what is there if you don't want to mess with it. Make sure you slide the connector onto the brass barb in the center, not the silver tab off to the side. Connector will fit both places and the silver tab will not give you the data you want.

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Tach Signal to the Dash and more (gauges!):

For the tach signal to the dash, I used my ECU pinout to find my tach signal wire. I had this with a few others (12v key on, OBD2 Signal, TCC Brake, VSS) All off to the side already. I wanted to be able to pull the entire harness if needed, plus I don't like butt splices. I Ran all of these into a 6 pin DT connector and ran all new wires from the other end into the cab through the firewall grommet on the driver's side.
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I used the Dakota Digital SGI-100BT unit, which I mounted under my shifter console with some 2 way tape. I ran the tach signal input wire to the INPUT slot on the DD. Then run an output wire back through the cab from the HI VOLT tach output on the DD. This is important, I had to screw around with this and the app a few times to get it all to work. Toyota requests what DD is considering a high voltage output. I ran that back through the cab and used the EWD to find the tach signal wire on the Toyota side. It is the black wire in this black connector that sits over the drivers inner fender, right near where my ABS module used to be. I unfortunately don't remember what it used to plug into. I just Used a DT connector here to connect the two for a clean install.

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Additionally, into the DD, I have a ground, which I grounded to the body ground that is behind the driver's kick plate, 12V+ Key On Ignition (Will ask @cruisermatt to hop on and explain this, since he figured this out and I am not 100% clear enough on the details to explain). I also ran the GM VSS wire to the speedo output for later use. Right now my speedo is ran off the Toyota VSS in the TCase, but I would like to take advantage of the DD app where I can adjust speedo output for tire size. I attached that preemptively, but do not have an output run yet.

App settings are mostly straightforward, 8 cyl input, 6 cyl output, the only thing that is weird is even though you have HI VOLT output from the box itself, in the app you want to keep it set to low volt input and low volt output. doesn't make sense to me entirely, but I know my dash gauge matches my OBD2 reader tach, so it is reading correctly.

For the remainder of the gauges, oil pressure is explained above, fuel level system has not been affected and will work as factory, and once you attach alternator wires from Toyota side to GM alternator, voltage readings are as factory. Water temp is run off of the toyota water temp wire (green wire) from original engine wiring harness. Matt used his lathe skillz and turned the toyota temp sensor down to GM threads and I installed on read of passenger block in a stock GM location. Plugged Toyota wire in, and boom, water temp. The only dash instrumentation I have not made work yet are the gear select indicators, but I have located the toyota wires that initiate that using the power probe, EWD, and copious amounts of tape that the guys at the AC place giggled at me for lol.
 
I needed the CDL wiring to work, which can be done using a combination of @rockrod 's post about IH1 and IH2 connector pinouts and the EWD. In my case, rockrod was not 100% exact to my needs, but gave me a good jumping off point. This was time consuming, but netted me no more ECU and a whole box of extra wire to use in other projects! Everyone's needs are a little different, but I kept all wiring that ran to the center diff, and the associate grounds. There is a ground in a nice grey heat sleeve, that is your speedo ground. If that is not grounded, you won't have a speedo. I just grounded it to a bolt on my firewall.

https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/AF1QipOw7n_gmZK5bpzX7eJSlhMtlB70yk1NihLB94Ib

https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/AF1QipOw7n_gmZK5bpzX7eJSlhMtlB70yk1NihLB94Ib
I originally was using the trailblazer shift cable like others have, but the plastic adjuster snapped pretty easily, made me mad, and send me on an adventure to ACE Hardware to create a Matt original. A length of tubing and some small heim joints and a little bit of tig welding by CruiserMatt later and we had a nice solid linkage.I was there for moral support and parts concocting on this one. The result works pretty well. I would like to add a retainer that keeps the heims from flopping in the future. I will try to get some photos of that, but location makes it challenging.
 
After all of that fun with wiring, it was almost time for a start up! I ended up using a different fuse box, because the one I bought had an issue where the terminals would not snap in securely. That didn't seem great. So I found another one that was way nicer, but still also $30. I kept the GM fuses and separate from the Toyota, though I think it would be fun in the future to try to use the Toyota relay box and all of its empty slots to get the job done.
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After that, TIME TO START IT WITH THE KEY!!!!!

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And of course had to drive it to my mecca for a reward- Wawa!

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And even with it looking like Frankenstein's forgotten child, it was not the biggest s***box there, as a tuner car club rolled in with a BMW-of-many-colors pouring oil everywhere with its cambered out wheels and poorly trimmed fenders.

After making sure everything ran and drove decently in the electrical sense, I loomed up my harness using tesa tape and a universal harness looming kit from DEI and reassembled the front of the truck.

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Just LS Things- Troubleshooting:

I didn't have any issues that I recall with our actual install, but I want to post this in case it helps someone else.

Issue 1: Running lean on 1 bank and rich on the other. Even though I had installed 2 brand new Denso O2 sensors, 1 was actually bad out of the box causing me an issue. That was an easy fix.

Issue 2: Fuel return leak at Toyota hardline: I just used a smaller diameter hose and really had to work to get it onto the GM return line. That did fix the leak though. Also- don't get gasoline in your hair. It hangs around for about 2 weeks not matter the amount of lemon juice, dawn dish soap, baking soda, and white vinegar you use haha.

Issue 3: READ THIS! The Marks adapter is mildly trash. The weight of the transmission puts enough stress on the aluminum adapter that it strips out the bolt holes and causes a trans leak and the adapter to become loose. It is absolutely worth the time/ money/ effort to timesert or helicoil all parts of the adapter before install. Also when you can, replace the Mark's provided socket cap screws with GM hardware to make your like not suck. The adapter pulled apart on me after less than a mile of driving and we had to pull the tcase and trans again.

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Issue 4: Running like junk. The truck had a progressively worse misfire that was not there in the running truck before the swap. After some investigation and pulling some injectors, the inj at cyl 7 was completely clogged. (Pics below). We found some used injectors from a friend of a friend and swapped them out. It improved but did not fix the issue. A little more chasing led to a cracked coil. Then I started to get a really bad misfire that led to a shudder. There was also some fuel in the oil. After some checking and a friend assist, I found a bad injector, it was stuck open. Replaced that, changed the oil, and all was well! The truck runs great now. Those are the differences between doing a $2200 budget swap with a 300k mile motor that I did the cost effective overhaul on, and a $10k crate motor swap.

mEp7N-5P5P3En_i5EU6c6tcJ5Y63-YcQHoGAHI0cStetlAz30hXfdTTGEQHydUTEo_Ic2qNCiDf-05SxynuRzFgw_Pp4Zm1hel_oA-VSWvh3FE14MjQwC6FkJ_zubKNRUB9oYtEpO6OlutlBkXVUVnl4SuNbyTuS9nJDH_f_jFIbKW5t9dlE1M5CsbGl5uHC5llz7MAoLy0SQxEXMHXH2FuyI3QhqyOpOjNlObYFKVMNUIBIVGc84At-Afd0mxQKS7j6ZYc_fvnFPHkgxrNPdxKFim0Nteoc_CJ2hpfVRcWKNc9X1yOk910VnQKRcMyalpzi0xBq13Jr5bjibfzJeYQbDGSPR8YPeJqPI_5F-T3btJdI1nLF-67OqDlmWaSRhFgYOVBJIbT6pxGNd2L-NFysJjlMbV9W_P0d86v72NeW4pN-HWDXxMQDghqWXEFfYq4M7pwcLYdu534CKcor_Lft0Rpl03vmjzS4KmCAJM9mwR7CwbE76kfA4rhj3Nj7lNRjnJ6eFdaFkaMMwRaKWurYeiio7yvuY-liSVWD0Grz8A2RgAJSPuW8PnjSroD02qEJ5vQGpGCp89LVvFsfrrmqx3urxPVGsl5bHtd5rWpzFKy8rUGwU2LGkXr_Z7rlIeW-e8UPNEEHM-gIucjfPlBZY3-I6OJWHKLmqsBjjo9e9YvamKAYP2N90be6S2Cx4k-G4445iwpaLunh5oJuqkTdQMFT6FRIb4S3zb_mhCXZXwizER1sh9uELx-_ogOjkKcmY4xAWhEpuIj-w2kubjlPBy3COEiK05piHp_uRWsO3Ts0vMmzwEKDVpAtSM5iBCN48t_Bxg=w706-h937-no
0KH3uSrOuCXxEQnoJ3OmCfo4NBDRU6gMqnOHZMK9J4iX_COLYHdvrqFslI-vUvrkCykRtpUMUrxjLPp5Sqoc55LUZnKJKWJyoDqyyHCC25JRUmYQGi4kEBkyU5oK2yvkQLxqWat1He0CJpJKIr5U15oVTH2oSWQHJM6y0UXYaFgMr39ymYHte4LyLaJaQdf-OiLCxPI7cj0Oamu6UM39DSdVl-lVwE1zngUWFgFXMXFIkJ--CEoJgbXBijh8OBInaCCVvEObsqRLxl_q0TbKdXq9ml_46p4U-hR0Jva6905KXYPaX3qv919klmodk2cGPU_Gn_Hm5oKKzXsAymmW8ISxtEsE48ngMZTD7ojYDpwbf9JAvrcNjj6UqAnipLSUeDY8t-AB9XE3XngIvUvBNUca-KKIOf5W67JDlvjpNPQLr00w5K4ZdapRLX2VOrHI4-B5f5_IUgHA4vfhHpVDIZ-ehR6BEJ2MhmpWDO-K-O4gswC_CVLeibCkHRgrzmqgH5vEnAtkzHl2XBFcjTK1kjwdXK-epVhrgl6ZRLBwo6YxrKmyWNDzakxh9YWRensxArYsg8aRO89H22zj2l7cN-kx096NuJQle_yZlx9QQkyfO4YTMS5HJNei-uZ2GgBZM4_J8VPOK1qh_F5EO9SD7ukijKbVU-JBYJz0TIuAAKzjLsIOeMYbgj_lhcgdvB6oetSeGokaOwFkcIYvLjZmW96E_GR39FjZ6qn7CAlZKi3c-kKjbIDC3ytby_tWY8IE_nQYMF0xURgo4sI4Z4dt3H3FcQqFAnqVy5mFnE8C-s83G4eNPli5lMU-ZHfoXFMMXg5ZSfQH3A=w706-h937-no


That really sums up the issues and trouble shooting. Like I mentioned earlier, I have some things to button up and will post as I do. Bonus shot of me finishing replacing he injector in the bank parking lot as the sun went down about 8 hours before I left for Tennessee haha.

IJ-xOVaqsEVIrar673FDweiqt3E8kPeGcrCU-wAntOweuEsQIPkNLi9ygGcnQdWe6KJ-k7QE_7chSIx5eauiyIet5ne-oAwmnKlc-GuMM3z0-TMk_oL8yUMK0KaVVCthL71tSCAYCBptDMQ7YWa8hwCBlUCqakAFgHi-w1iDHAPM_1-twHkYsWF9ikCYG2Mi5iE3ep6dBFK_ZAlhy6alNq9gZS06uDam4Nf4q7MGqfL9iwhVV4DuTejwl9PRIK-7-qbQUZ7LNydkw_Tj_DRIRy4oPV9PPu3DaWVgwuikxD4BTeyQ_6evemcSqbAKj_INf3M24GEiQu83aqfXZicUkRWUd7BjaavMqK0NYEGuvnDmMWZFW_jbFjaz9bHRbr9sHyBaq94iE6YwxzFawRqviV8ta8Zpn4b82tZAPcraMYfnAexHneeZluc8dpKwW6ncy66v0yKOX2NGFwv-hdFR8MlVBas5t5Oxp6y-oPMxqaqbeCBVbE-SSJEbpFl3Yn6PD6t8q10chLpjSRF7Kv0frh9TB2zq7yZ-GgPRn2gpNUKZ4RN2udU92ynltJSaFK-VBiTOI7xcqsb5f9gUBP3_hKWnQGn_ujIKzmuSLa-HZ1u6uXYyr7lfxnWED6uKNeKT9h65atULnzN9cH96aR6Xze4KzU2Ulpi44-lvEXkM2VbtVuTZcyEP6gBJhqHmyTLJzF3dgJPWar2QUFpymJW2HnaHbiJ2VA7cflFlIm1Belzkd00Arw1Tb-TnkM6KHzXdhwMvv4asoxibNUbd-SyrHZusbVRpGkBkk-nLYB3TS0WIoiHQZz529zFSC_5UatWHyJWrq0sXUA=w706-h937-no
 
I am sure I missed a few things here and there, but this is pretty close to an accurate total. I was really good about logging purchases as I made them. This does account for selling the trans and tcase from the Yukon, the 1FZ and A442F, the cats from the Yukon, scrapping the Yukon, trading the rear axle of the Yukon for a 2wd 4L60, the ABS module, my old air box, my old MAF. I haven't sold the 1FZ ECU yet, but am planning on it also. I added in some misc line items for stuff me or matt had laying around like electrical connectors, some hoses, brake line and fittings. I did also include the purchase of all the fluids- coolant, ATF, power steering, brake fluid, oil (Rotella).

There were things you could keep original to the motor if you wanted to do this even more budget. I put new radiator bushings (OEM and expensive!) a new condenser, water pump, spark plugs, wires, GM VSS, Toyota Oil Sender, Toyota water temp sensor, GM water temp sensor, misc electrical connectors, belts, hoses, I uses AN Line for everything which added a lot of cost for threaded adapters, new knock sensors, new PS pump, O2 sensors, rear main, billet barbell, and I used a stainless exhaust assortment to make the exhaust, where mild steel and just fuel rated rubber line would save a ton.

My total for the swap the way I did it was $2,293.

If I went bare-minimum-super-budget-extreme: It could have been done for $870.83.

I added about $1300 of misc things to make the swap nicer. If you went even further down the rabbit hole, there are things you could go junkyard pillage and make work. I don't think the realm of $500 swap is out of the question. I do think in risking that you remove reliability. I am already at risk of reliability issues given the 300,000 miles already on the motor and the roughly 1700 miles I put on it last week. I do think finishing it and going on a trip immediately is pretty neat and shows that this can be easily repeated. Coming into this I had never done a swap before, I had almost no experience with LS motors other than watching friends and my dad tinker. I had no knowledge of vehicle electrical. This is an awesome case study for the Land Cruiser community and the vehicle community as a whole that research and diligence can pay off. I obviously had a huge advantage having @cruisermatt to do the majority of my welding and ask questions to. I did figure out about 80% of this myself though, which I am pretty proud of. I can't thank Matt enough for all of his help push to take on the project, and wisdom, otherwise I'd still be rocking the elusive 4 cyl. 1FZFE haha. Dale and Anthony don't have mud accounts, but they helped a ton also! I appreciate everyone on here that offered a helping hand and advice also. @thatcabledude has some awesome write ups that helped me out of a lot of dead ends. Thank you!



AM-JKLVdkRHuuYthXwPVBX4LlmG487fTiwcpwLILqolbxIK_yi3T3UXE02CDkXD7OqW98UfKfODtWjiVKTH4hoP3RNFHGu2jRFc=w1666-h937-no
 
You just dropped a ton of knowledge on us. Imma have to read this a few times due to my reading comprehension level 😅
 
Every time I use a Marks or AA product I move one step closer to producing my own adapters

I cringe every time I buy one
 
Every time I use a Marks or AA product I move one step closer to producing my own adapters

I cringe every time I buy one
I can see that. Haha. What’s AA’s obsession with that damn Allen head hardware then love so much? So far, (knock on wood) I haven’t had any issue with what he described after 80k miles.
 
I can see that. Haha. What’s AA’s obsession with that damn Allen head hardware then love so much? So far, (knock on wood) I haven’t had any issue with what he described after 80k miles.
I don't know, but you can't get that crap tight enough. I understand why they do it modularly, for use with different kits, but you cant even get at some of the bolts to tighten them properly and the 4 bolt to 6 bolt adapter, to use the correct length hardware, you cant get it in the space before it hits the other side of the adapter piece.
 
Good job! How was the mpg on the swap?
Haha, not great. About 10 highway, 8 city. I want to get all of the injectors professionally cleaned though. I do have a pinch in my exhaust also. I am going to address both of those and see how that affects it. I may look into a professional tune also. The tune I got done was a cheap and fast to delete VATS and get the truck running. Everything I read says 14-15 should be easily obtainable. I also recently picked up a scan gauge I am going to install and verify my MPGs.

The 1FZ was getting about 12, so If I can meet that I am happy, ecstatic if I can exceed.
 
Haha, not great. About 10 highway, 8 city. I want to get all of the injectors professionally cleaned though. I do have a pinch in my exhaust also. I am going to address both of those and see how that affects it. I may look into a professional tune also. The tune I got done was a cheap and fast to delete VATS and get the truck running. Everything I read says 14-15 should be easily obtainable. I also recently picked up a scan gauge I am going to install and verify my MPGs.

The 1FZ was getting about 12, so If I can meet that I am happy, ecstatic if I can exceed.
Wow, that's pretty bad. Did you notice if your torque converter is locking up? Did you wire up the TCC signal to the correct side of the OEM brake switch? If the TC isn't locking your MPG is going to suck.
 
So, not LS swap related, but build related- I finished my super custom drawer system! It has a pull out kitchen, fridge slide, modular bed, and is made all out of aluminum and OSB, no welding needed! Plans and brackets will be up on my website soon. Which, I started a thing! reddogoverland.com. I wanted a creative outlet and also a way to fund my land cruiser habit haha.

We have hats, shirts, stickers, patches, hoodies, beanies, and some other cool accessories for the 80/ 60/ 62 platform with more in the works, as well as some 100 series, 3rd gen 4runner, and taco gear. I have some LS swap apparel and stickers as well. Peep ,y two newest designs for shirts and my latest patch! Use code IH8MUD for 10% off the Fusible Link shirt.

Fusible Link Shirt:
unisex-staple-t-shirt-dark-grey-heather-front-63616aa94c7ed.jpg


More Sawzall. Less Research. Shirt:
unisex-staple-t-shirt-black-heather-front-635c4abe26e9a.jpg


TEQ Rising Sun Patch:

embroidered-patches-white-rectangle-3.5x2.25-front-635c4c42d0a82.jpg


Yota Beanie:

organic-ribbed-beanie-olive-green-front-630e99832d724.jpg


Thanks for peeping the website!

I should have better pictures of the drawer system to upload soon too :)
 
Now, LS related- The swap has north of 7000 miles on it and two out of state wheeling trips under its belt. I highly recommend the Scan Gauge ii install. Nice to see data. I averaged about 15 mpg highway on this trip. I still want to get a tune, and I think there may be a little gearing work to be done. And the T Case has a bit of a leaky leak, so time for a rebuild there.

Things on the upcoming to do list to wrap up from the swap:

-Wire CEL.
-Wire NSS.
-Add a resonator to the exhaust.

I fully sound deadened the truck (used NVX brand from Sonic Electronix) and it helped a ton, but on the highway, it drones pretty bad. Probably will add a 12" Vibrant resonator at the back.
 
So, not LS swap related, but build related- I finished my super custom drawer system! It has a pull out kitchen, fridge slide, modular bed, and is made all out of aluminum and OSB, no welding needed! Plans and brackets will be up on my website soon. Which, I started a thing! reddogoverland.com. I wanted a creative outlet and also a way to fund my land cruiser habit haha.

We have hats, shirts, stickers, patches, hoodies, beanies, and some other cool accessories for the 80/ 60/ 62 platform with more in the works, as well as some 100 series, 3rd gen 4runner, and taco gear. I have some LS swap apparel and stickers as well. Peep ,y two newest designs for shirts and my latest patch! Use code IH8MUD for 10% off the Fusible Link shirt.

Fusible Link Shirt:
View attachment 3156561

More Sawzall. Less Research. Shirt:
View attachment 3156563

TEQ Rising Sun Patch:

View attachment 3156564

Yota Beanie:

View attachment 3156562

Thanks for peeping the website!

I should have better pictures of the drawer system to upload soon too :)
Imma check you out. . I'm a bit of a patch whore.
 
Also maybe post up in the "small business front" of the classified section for more visibility.
 
Pics or it didn’t happen
 
Now, LS related- The swap has north of 7000 miles on it and two out of state wheeling trips under its belt. I highly recommend the Scan Gauge ii install. Nice to see data. I averaged about 15 mpg highway on this trip. I still want to get a tune, and I think there may be a little gearing work to be done. And the T Case has a bit of a leaky leak, so time for a rebuild there.

Things on the upcoming to do list to wrap up from the swap:

-Wire CEL.
-Wire NSS.
-Add a resonator to the exhaust.

I fully sound deadened the truck (used NVX brand from Sonic Electronix) and it helped a ton, but on the highway, it drones pretty bad. Probably will add a 12" Vibrant resonator at the back.
BTW, I've been working to get rid of drone for a while now. I lined the whole interior with butyl mat and some in the doors and in the rear quarters. Then laid some mass load mat front to rear, then a little thin bit of foam and all the carpet back on. I also bought a roll of 3M sound deadening stuff that looks like insulation batting. It helped a little, but not nearly enough. I don't know what this truck sounds like with a stock exhaust from Toyota, but when I got it the whole exhaust was rotten. So it's got a Magna flow down pipe with cat, a second manga flow cat and after-market OEM replacement exhaust to the rear and it still droned like an SOB. Just recently I was thinking about what someone said and thought I'd followed, but realized I didn't do enough. They said the biggest different they experienced was the 3M sound deadening in the rear quarters. So I pulled out the rest of the roll and proceeded to pack the passenger rear quarter and tail gate with as much of that crap as I could fit in there. Now I definitely see a difference. In fact some days I forget about the exhaust altogether. Which is something because it was so annoying before there was no forgetting it. Now I can listen to the radio at a normal volume or carry on a conversation like a normal person.

This is the stuff Amazon product ASIN B074XLJ4Q1
 
Nice write up. Thanks for posting. Makes me really want to do the swap. Started a LS swap on my 79 IH Scout/ Traveler, but then sold the project this past August. I can see doing a swap on the cheap as my 5.3/4L60E running combo was only CAN$1700, a NP41C t-case was only $350, and I fabbed up my own engine mounts and trans support crossmember. It’s the wiring that would scare me, but seems there is plenty enough info out there on LS swaps to get it done without too much heartache.
 

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