rear body mounts (5 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Did some more grinding and ‘touch up’ and then threw some black paint on it.

image.jpg


Meh
 
Was gonna get the engine in but thought to get this JTR VSS Reluctor kit on first while it’s easy to access. It’s to be used for cruise control.
image.jpg


Took what I think is the input shaft cover off and got to the staked nut. First off this the input shaft, right? I am imagining that there is a preload with this nut.
From what I see I am to replace that nut with the provided reluctor, and tighten it w 1/2 ratchet.
image.jpg

image.jpg


I am worried about how I will get the right preload and as well there is no way to stake that down. I am finding a torque of 94lbs.

Anyone use this kit before.
Otherwise I will have to wait til Monday to call. Damn!
 
Well I'm no help, but I am using that kit. I can't remember how that ring was fastened. The 1/2" drive socket doesn't look the same to me.

Sorry Man!
 
I just got my two buddies attached and even with the rod adjusted all the way back there is stil pressure on the TO bearing. Looks like I might have to make a plate to move the slave forward like Wngrog.
The slave is from a 2f engine.

image.jpg


Unless there is something I obviously did wrong. :/
 
Last edited:
The mount from post #2008 looks like the better one. I think you could build a better mount than the other. I don’t understand why it’s angled up in the pic of Scrappy’s. Why couldn’t they have just made it level and with the proper spacing?
 
Got so focused on the 2002 sierra idea and forgot that I have a pedal from my other cruzr! Yeah. Thanks LJ!

Worked all weekend on getting the dog house all fixed up. Removed all the brackets filled and sanded all the holes for a new and clean slate.

Then I saw a little rust area about 5” down on the engine side. Talk about a rabbit hole! Now if I lived up to my better’s standards I would have removed the outside fender attachment and put in new metal. But, alas, I fell short. Ended up wire wheeling, filling, filling, filling, chasing. I am done with it.

My penance will be having people saying, “looks great, but what happened here?”. All I have to do is get the fenders on so that no one but me will ever know.

And, boy, I have a short memory! Is it 420?
But now we know!
So we can say, "Hey, what happened here?!?"
:rofl:
 
Also took this nut off and really it seems the only way that this will work is by just screwing it on.

image.jpg


The end seems to match right up to the sleeve, and it lines up the the sensor. Maybe it didn’t come with instructions ‘cause it’s straight foward. Let’s hope so!

image.jpg


Gonna torque to 94lbs and call it good.
 
Don’t know if I should LAUGH or CRY! Usually just laugh.

My big moment- get the engine in the last time before I take it out the last time to paint the whole car. Gonna drive it to make sure that I have done everything right then tear it all down for paint.

image.jpg


Looks great!

I amaze myself. Rush55 even suggested putting all the accessories on to ck clearances. So we did. He’s awesome.

I just eyed the crank pulley. :( !!!

image.jpg


It hits a little more than an 1/8”
Won’t let me drop onto my nicely welded in engine mounts.

image.jpg


Not sure I can go with those wooden block, no?

image.jpg
 
Not sure I can go with those wooden block, no?
Lag bolts , bam!


Seriously though moving the mounts up the frame rails doesn’t look too bad a job?
Will everything be happy with it sitting up there?
 
Damn.
What’s your firewall clearance look like at the height with the blocks? In other words, is everything else going to be ok if you just come straight up those 3” or whatever that ends up being? The rubber mounts themselves will account for how much of that difference?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom