OEM Driveshaft come balanced? (1 Viewer)

[COYS]

factory joints are greased with an assembly lube. Basically it holds things in place and inhibits rust. Bearing grease is made from 1 of 2 base stocks which are not compatible with each other. So it is left to the end user to initially grease the shaft and to use the same grease in perpetuity to provide the longest service life. I personally would just use bearing grease and avoid Moly fortified stuff. But that is an individual's call.

, landtank.

 

[mudgudgeon]

As above, add grease when you install it.

Pump uni joints full until you see a consistent colour of your favourite flavour of grease come out of each of the bearing cup seals.
Wipe excess away. GTG

I prefer to use moly grease.

 

[COYS]

As above, add grease when you install it.

Pump uni joints full until you see a consistent colour of your favourite flavour of grease come out of each of the bearing cup seals.
Wipe excess away. GTG

I prefer to use moly grease.

So is this yellow grease assembly grease? This is what spilled out of my new rear oem shaft.

I for the life of me cannot access the front U joint zerk of the rear shaft with the shaft on the truck. the grease nipple fitting simply is too wide in the little gap avail to zerk.

So one banana frustrating.

 

[landtank]

if you rotated the shaft 90* so the zerk was facing down it would be easier. The angle of the shaft would give you more room.

 

[george_tlc]

^ I've been using a Milton S-3208 to get to pesky grease nipples. Works fantastic and don't need to fiddle to get the yokes 'just right'.

cheers,
george.

​

 

[COYS]

^ I've been using a Milton S-3208 to get to pesky grease nipples. Works fantastic and don't need to fiddle to get the yokes 'just right'.

cheers,
george.

​

Hey George, so are you actually pressing the needle nose into the tiny ball on the zerk fitting like this dude?

 

[COYS]

if you rotated the shaft 90* so the zerk was facing down it would be easier. The angle of the shaft would give you more room.

If you mean driving forward or backward to get the orientation of the shaft right, didn't do anything. The zerk remains in the same spot where there's just not enough of a gap to get access to the zerk fitting.

 

[mudgudgeon]

If you mean driving forward or backward to get the orientation of the shaft right, didn't do anything. The zerk remains in the same spot where there's just not enough of a gap to get access to the zerk fitting.

Uni joint was put in wrong

 

[COYS]

Uni joint was put in wrong

From Toyota factory?

 

[mudgudgeon]

From Toyota factory?

Well yeah, if it's factory fresh, and you didn't take em out for funzies

The FSM provides details of orientation of grease nipples on uni joints so they are always accessible

 

[COYS]

Well yeah, if it's factory fresh, and you didn't take em out for funzies

The FSM provides details of orientation of grease nipples on uni joints so they are always accessible

The rear was easily accessible, but the front was tight where I ended up using this as an impatience crutch.

https://www.autozone.com/grease-and-caulk-application-tools/grease-gun-accessories/p/oemtools-needle-nozzle/141690_0_0

It worked, but was a bit messy and I want to find a better method. Same yellow grease spilled out of the joint. I'm hoping the Milton S-3208 somehow gets a better seal on the zerk ball. I'm curious, if ever you find a moment to spare, to see a pic of your factory rear shaft showing clearance to the front u joint zerk fitting? I'm presuming you've done this yourself many times, same setup.

The zerk orientation is correct on my new factory rear shaft per the FSM. But the #1 u joint zerk is at an angle and at that angle, there's less clearance due to the curvature of the u joint itself. The #2 is also at an angle, but the u joint leaves a lot more room where my regular grease gun coupler thingamabob has enough clearance (see: post #23).

This is above my one bite banana grade for sure as it sounds like I'm the only one struggling through this.

 

[landtank]

I have a rear drive shaft that I built from new parts and will post pics of how the zerks should face. Maybe that will help.

 

[COYS]

I have a rear drive shaft that I built from new parts and will post pics of how the zerks should face. Maybe that will help.

Much obliged. I can tell you how relieved I was when I saw your front DC shaft; everything neatly lined up and easily accessible unlike the factory setup.

What would be really helpful is someone taking a pic of their 95-97 OEM rear shaft that shows one of these grease gun couplers connected to the front u joint zerk fitting with no issues just like the pic I'm showing with the rear u joint. Then I know for sure something's up with my shaft which would be a surprise given it's a new TOYOTA part that I literally picked up at the parts counter, took it to the shop and had them install it then and there.

It's a common size and came with this grease gun I bought at Harbor Freight.

Professional Pistol Grip Grease Gun

Amazing deals on this Professional Pistol Grip Grease Gun at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[george_tlc]

Hey George, so are you actually pressing the needle nose into the tiny ball on the zerk fitting like this dude?

Yep, exactly like that. It works perfectly and no grease seeps out. I was dubious of how well it would seal, but it certainly does and makes getting to those uj nipples super easy. Just keep a reasonable pressure on the tip to stay sealed and pump away. I use a trigger style gun (one handed pumping) and use a flex hose to the needle tip or standard clip on (depending on which works better or fits better).

cheers,
george.

 

[COYS]

Yep, exactly like that. It works perfectly and no grease seeps out. I was dubious of how well it would seal, but it certainly does and makes getting to those uj nipples super easy. Just keep a reasonable pressure on the tip to stay seal and pump away. I use a trigger style gun (one handed pumping) and use a flex hose to the needle tip or standard clip on (depending on which works better or fits better).

cheers,
george.

I ordered that Milton needle per your rec, but used the Autozone one which was kinda big for the factory zerk, and while it worked, it was tough to get the grease in as a lot spilled out. I had to finesse with really short squirts multiple times to get enough moly grease in there to displace that yellow goo that came with the new shaft. During other attempts, it'd be near impossible to squeeze the grease in with the lever action. Really fuqn weird, messy and not fun.


I'm hoping the Milton seals up better. I'm using this for the easy to access slip yoke zerks. Super easy to attach AND release. Downside is the diameter is too large for the u joints full stop.

Locking Grease Coupler

Amazing deals on this Locking Grease Coupler at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Gracias!

 

[mudgudgeon]

The position of the zerk, but also the angle matters. I've had no issues greasing some unis, but others have been an issue.
I've always assumed the ones that were an issue have had uni joints replaced without attention to zerk placement/angle

 

[landtank]

here are the pics for the shaft I made. There is a slight offset to the zerk position as it favors 1 side more than the other. When looking from the opposite end of the shaft it should lean left.

 

[COYS]

here are the pics for the shaft I made. There is a slight offset to the zerk position as it favors 1 side more than the other. When looking from the opposite end of the shaft it should lean left.


View attachment 3038779View attachment 3038780

Off the truck I can gain access easily by rotating that front u joint. The problem is on the truck the set u joint angle leaves less room or not enough for my fitting. Again fresh of Mr T’s shelf.

Again Would be helpful to get pics of a stock rear 95-97 shaft on truck. I’ll try and get to my spare factory shaft and take pics to illustrate.

Many thanks.

 

[manofthewoods]

The position of the zerk, but also the angle matters. I've had no issues greasing some unis, but others have been an issue.
I've always assumed the ones that were an issue have had uni joints replaced without attention to zerk placement/angle

I often find it helpful to use a pointed center punch to push the zerk ball before greasing. I get much less leakage while pumping, also I try to clean the area up first. Grit on the zerk can cause it to get stuck/break when removing.

 

[BILT4ME]

I ordered that Milton needle per your rec, but used the Autozone one which was kinda big for the factory zerk, and while it worked, it was tough to get the grease in as a lot spilled out. I had to finesse with really short squirts multiple times to get enough moly grease in there to displace that yellow goo that came with the new shaft. During other attempts, it'd be near impossible to squeeze the grease in with the lever action. Really fuqn weird, messy and not fun.


I'm hoping the Milton seals up better. I'm using this for the easy to access slip yoke zerks. Super easy to attach AND release. Downside is the diameter is too large for the u joints full stop.

Locking Grease Coupler

Amazing deals on this Locking Grease Coupler at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Gracias!

I have replaced the lock on coupler on my grease gun with an 18" hose and a permanent "needle" style nozzle. It is easier to deal with on ALL zerks than to try to wrestle a separate piece for the one zerk that is difficult.

Don't forget, you have a lift on your truck. This changed the angle of the driveshaft and therefore the angle of the U-Joints and the accessibility of the zerks. Your lift is not so extreme as to cause issues, but it is not easier.

Also, make sure that when you are greasing your U-Joints and yokes that you have your driveline unloaded. This means the transmission in neutral, parking brake set, wheels chocked. This will allow the grease to get on all sides of the yokes and U-joints.

Grease Gun Needle Fitting