Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (2 Viewers)

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I just purchased this used finger brake!

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FYI, this Swag Offroad brake came with the flat bottom V-die to make tighter bends and/or bends on short pieces. I wasn’t going to purchase that option originally had I bought a new unit though I can see some very good uses for it.

Look at how well it bent this scrap piece of 3/16” plate to 50*.





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I am looking for some advice. I’ve lowered the Cruiser significantly from where it was with the leaf springs and I am having some steering clearance issues.

The frame is sitting at around 19.5” at the transmission on 32” tires, which should be around 23.5 with 40” tires.

I have about 3.5” of up-travel before the WFO steering setup hits the frame.

The good = the axle can be moved forward more and the tire would supposedly be 3/4” away from the front fender lip (1.5” away from the flat part of the fender behind the turn signal) at full up-travel. Thus, I can use my factory fender.

The bad = I was hoping for 5” of up-travel.

Thoughts? Is anyone else out there running 3.5” of up-travel? What alternative steering setup might have better clearance while still being a reliable setup for street driving? Has anyone used the Ballistic Fab arms?

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I am looking for some advice. I’ve lowered the Cruiser significantly from where it was with the leaf springs and I am having some steering clearance issues.

The frame is sitting at around 19.5” at the transmission on 32” tires, which should be around 23.5 with 40” tires.

I have about 3.5” of up-travel before the WFO steering setup hits the frame.

The good = the axle can be moved forward more and the tire would supposedly be 3/4” away from the front fender lip (1.5” away from the flat part of the fender behind the turn signal) at full up-travel. Thus, I can use my factory fender.

The bad = I was hoping for 5” of up-travel.

Thoughts? Is anyone else out there running 3.5” of up-travel? Now I understand why some folks are cutting and replacing their front frames with this setup.

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5 inches of up is hard to get, especially if u want to keep it low. I am 3.5 ish of uptravel on mine, and I don't have issues. I did have to mod my frame to get that. It's all a compromise, just go with what u feel is best
 
5 inches of up is hard to get, especially if u want to keep it low. I am 3.5 ish of uptravel on mine, and I don't have issues. I did have to mod my frame to get that. It's all a compromise, just go with what u feel is best
Are you referring to your yellow Cruiser in your profile? Is that a Dana 60 front on 40” tires. It looks clean and I like the ride height!
 
5 inches of up is hard to get, especially if u want to keep it low. I am 3.5 ish of uptravel on mine, and I don't have issues. I did have to mod my frame to get that. It's all a compromise, just go with what u feel is best
^^^ this

You could notch the frame 🤷‍♂️
 
Mike, could you flip the drag link below the arms and ream and taper the arms from the bottom? May have to use an insert in the arm to get the correct taper as i suspect youll have to over drill and taper because of the existing holes.
 
Thanks to everyone for the input. I thought about flipping the drag link around and notching the frame. I might just lift the whole thing up an inch and call it good. I’ll decide in the morning.

The front link mounts are assembled and the frame is prepped. All I need to do is position everything in place and weld it together, then order the lower links.

This picture is with it an inch higher than this morning. It looks fine.

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I am not real familiar with the Dana stuff but are there other steering arms you could buy that would allow you to mount the link under the arm in a double sheer type set up?
 
I reamed and flipped my hellfire steering arms to put everything about 2" lower than normal. Not quite the same as a d60, but you should still be able to do it. I'm at about 5.5" of uptravel and about a 22.5" frame height. It's totally doable.
 
I am not real familiar with the Dana stuff but are there other steering arms you could buy that would allow you to mount the link under the arm in a double sheer type set up?
There are quite a few steering arm options out there. They all look very similar according to the website description. I am Interested anyone knows of a better arm though I might go the route that @EWheeler and @DangerNoodle are recommending next.

I reamed and flipped my hellfire steering arms to put everything about 2" lower than normal. Not quite the same as a d60, but you should still be able to do it. I'm at about 5.5" of uptravel and about a 22.5" frame height. It's totally doable.

I will get my axle position today, then I will work on flipping my drag link around. 2” is exactly what I need. I might need some further guidance in this area as I’ve never reamed to flip a tie rod end before. I flipped a drag link once and I used heim joints, which worked fine for 20+ years but I’d rather not go that route.

My tie rod can’t be flipped as it would hit the differential. I can notch the frame if needed, though I am getting pretty close to 5” of travel with the frame at 20” on 32” tires. What size tires are you running again, @DangerNoodle ?
 
FWIW notch the frame and keep it as low as possible. and or move the tie rod to the front of the axle. I do like the protection offered by running the tie rod behind the axle although it does make hydro assist packaging harder but still doable.

@DangerNoodle if your running Hellfires isn't your tie rod in front of the axle ? no offense intended but you truck looked a little tippy when I ran Cane Creek with you at Cruise Moab this year.
 
There are quite a few steering arm options out there. They all look very similar according to the website description. I am Interested anyone knows of a better arm though I might go the route that @EWheeler and @DangerNoodle are recommending next.



I will get my axle position today, then I will work on flipping my drag link around. 2” is exactly what I need. I might need some further guidance in this area as I’ve never reamed to flip a tie rod end before. I flipped a drag link once and I used heim joints, which worked fine for 20+ years but I’d rather not go that route.

My tie rod can’t be flipped as it would hit the differential. I can notch the frame if needed, though I am getting pretty close to 5” of travel with the frame at 20” on 32” tires. What size tires are you running again, @DangerNoodle ?

Ah, I didn't see that your tie rod was in the rear. Makes sense now. I'd notch the frame then.

FWIW notch the frame and keep it as low as possible. and or move the tie rod to the front of the axle. I do like the protection offered by running the tie rod behind the axle although it does make hydro assist packaging harder but still doable.

@DangerNoodle if your running Hellfires isn't your tie rod in front of the axle ? no offense intended but you truck looked a little tippy when I ran Cane Creek with you at Cruise Moab this year.

Question, how did I look tippy? I body roll quite a bit, and i like to unload if it's a really big climb. I've never felt that tippy, though.
 
Ah, I didn't see that your tie rod was in the rear. Makes sense now. I'd notch the frame then.



Question, how did I look tippy? I body roll quite a bit, and i like to unload if it's a really big climb. I've never felt that tippy, though.
Thanks, @DangerNoodle. I might move my tie rod as it's getting close to the oil pan anyway. The oil pan is close to the drive shaft, too. That's a future problem to tackle. ha!

Your signature wasn't showing up in my feed this morning, but now I see it and I see your tire size :)
 
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I would use a double shear set up and move it under the steering arm You can make it what ever height you want without loosing a ton of ground clearance. Artec makes some nice arms
i was searching yesterday but didnt use the right words - yes, double shear setup can put your drag link and tie rod BELOW the arms.


I would put the drag link in front before losing travel or notching the frame personally.
 

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