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- #81
BH38149
I think it’s from a Nissan 300Z?
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I think it’s from a Nissan 300Z?
Nissan but can't remember which, has metric end but takes a little longer banjo. Mike can u post up the banjo pn?
Thanks for the numbers!
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- #85
Spent the last few days buttoning up a few random projects. Re-sealed the water neck cuz it was seeping. Found a tiny seep around the banjo bolt on a rear caliper (thanks to @FJmaine needing a picture!)
Installed new running boards from the dealer.
Spent most of my time finishing up the rear wiring harness. I’ve rebuilt most of it with weather pack connectors to the turn signals and new bullet connectors for all the markers and license lights. My headlights, wipers, brake, reverse, park lights and hazards all work! Only the left turn signals don’t come on. I took the switch apart and cleaned it up. Still only 8V coming out of the left side, so I’ll buy a new one.
I had the 70 series wheels and the bezel powder coated (RAL 9010) to match. Loving the color. Fitted up a set of Yokohama Geolandar M/T tires in 255/85/R16 and slapped them on today. Can’t wait to get it on the road!
Installed new running boards from the dealer.
Spent most of my time finishing up the rear wiring harness. I’ve rebuilt most of it with weather pack connectors to the turn signals and new bullet connectors for all the markers and license lights. My headlights, wipers, brake, reverse, park lights and hazards all work! Only the left turn signals don’t come on. I took the switch apart and cleaned it up. Still only 8V coming out of the left side, so I’ll buy a new one.
I had the 70 series wheels and the bezel powder coated (RAL 9010) to match. Loving the color. Fitted up a set of Yokohama Geolandar M/T tires in 255/85/R16 and slapped them on today. Can’t wait to get it on the road!
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- #86
After talking to several friends and some serious Google searching, I found a local guy who does custom exhaust work. As soon as I talked to him, I knew I found the right guy. He’s semi-retired and works out of a shop behind his house. Does lots of hot rods and street rods.
I trailered the 40 out to him Tuesday and picked it up today. He did exactly what I asked- full stainless system with a mandrel bent piece in the front to bring the passenger side over to meet the driver side. Then a high- flow cat (with a heat shield) before the pipe heads to the rear. He put in a couple of band clamps so I can take it apart for maintenance and used the stock hanger locations. A big Magnaflow muffler across the back and a simple exit similar to the OEM.
And it sounds awesome.
I trailered the 40 out to him Tuesday and picked it up today. He did exactly what I asked- full stainless system with a mandrel bent piece in the front to bring the passenger side over to meet the driver side. Then a high- flow cat (with a heat shield) before the pipe heads to the rear. He put in a couple of band clamps so I can take it apart for maintenance and used the stock hanger locations. A big Magnaflow muffler across the back and a simple exit similar to the OEM.
And it sounds awesome.
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- #87
that exhaust is so sweet, I don't think the wallet will like it though 
.
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- #89
Installed the roll bar today with help and guidance from @CrowleyFJ40 . I bought the Metaltech OEM style bar kit, and found they over bent the main hoop- the legs were narrower at the bottom than the top. Borrowed a power ram from @2fpower and we were able to spread it out nice and square. We squared and plumbed all the pieces and burned it together, then welded on tabs for the seat belts and installed a quick-release fire extinguisher.
The Chevy gas pedal works perfectly but doesn’t look right in a 40. I took it off, made a few small bends, then cut off the shaft. I took an old 40 pedal that came with the rig and welded it to the Chevy. It helps that both shafts are the same diameter! I ground a bevel on both pieces so the weld had some place to go. Very happy with the result.
Now that I have a roll bar and seat belts, it was finally time to take a ride. Wife took shotgun and my son grabbed a jump seat. We went for a short spin around the neighborhood after dinner on a rare evening of perfect weather. Definitely a good day.
The Chevy gas pedal works perfectly but doesn’t look right in a 40. I took it off, made a few small bends, then cut off the shaft. I took an old 40 pedal that came with the rig and welded it to the Chevy. It helps that both shafts are the same diameter! I ground a bevel on both pieces so the weld had some place to go. Very happy with the result.
Now that I have a roll bar and seat belts, it was finally time to take a ride. Wife took shotgun and my son grabbed a jump seat. We went for a short spin around the neighborhood after dinner on a rare evening of perfect weather. Definitely a good day.
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- #90
Just a few little projects today to get the 40 ready to start driving. I fitted an Aeromotive 10 micron fuel filter inline - found a nice spot above the frame and between the body mounts.
While I had the fuel lines apart and drained, I added a Redline fuel bulkhead adapter and modded the gas tank cover to work around the GM fuel pump and put some strips of sound deadener on the top and bottom of the tank.
Wrapped up the rear harness, added separate grounds to each light. Probably overkill, but I don’t like intermittent lighting. Added a pigtail for a 3rd brake light to be added later.
While I had the fuel lines apart and drained, I added a Redline fuel bulkhead adapter and modded the gas tank cover to work around the GM fuel pump and put some strips of sound deadener on the top and bottom of the tank.
Wrapped up the rear harness, added separate grounds to each light. Probably overkill, but I don’t like intermittent lighting. Added a pigtail for a 3rd brake light to be added later.
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- #91
Fun little project today- I cut the cane off the shifter that came with my H55F and welded on a 4-speed shift cane that came to me courtesy of @CrowleyFJ40
I ground a deep bevel on both pieces and made two passes to make sure she doesn’t come unglued when I’m making those quick shifts at the drag strip. Had to blast it and throw a quick coat of paint on it for now, but it will go to the powder coater at some point.
Looks much more correct than the big rubber lined shift cane and now I can hit 4th and reverse even with my console installed.
I ground a deep bevel on both pieces and made two passes to make sure she doesn’t come unglued when I’m making those quick shifts at the drag strip. Had to blast it and throw a quick coat of paint on it for now, but it will go to the powder coater at some point.
Looks much more correct than the big rubber lined shift cane and now I can hit 4th and reverse even with my console installed.
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- #92
Up next: suspension.
I fitted up the Redline “Ultimate 2.5” FJ40 Lift”, which consists of Pro-Comp 2.5” springs, Bilstein 5125 shocks and greasable shackles/pins. I love the stance and the shackle angles look great. The ride is a little bouncy, but I expect that to improve as the springs break in and I get more weight on the vehicle.
Once I had the lift on, I took it to the tire shop and had the alignment checked. Toe was dead on- @kc_chevota and I do good work! The caster was about a half degree negative and it made the steering too quick and darty. @orangefj45 fixed me up with 4 degree shims and longer center pins and now it tracks like a dream!
I fitted up the Redline “Ultimate 2.5” FJ40 Lift”, which consists of Pro-Comp 2.5” springs, Bilstein 5125 shocks and greasable shackles/pins. I love the stance and the shackle angles look great. The ride is a little bouncy, but I expect that to improve as the springs break in and I get more weight on the vehicle.
Once I had the lift on, I took it to the tire shop and had the alignment checked. Toe was dead on- @kc_chevota and I do good work! The caster was about a half degree negative and it made the steering too quick and darty. @orangefj45 fixed me up with 4 degree shims and longer center pins and now it tracks like a dream!
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- #93
Now that the suspension and steering are dialed in, I’ve been driving the 40 around the neighborhood and testing/debugging the rig.
Despite the 5.3L V8 swap, it didn’t feel like it had all that much power.
I wired up an OBD2 port to the engine computer and accessed the codes with an app on my phone. Came up with a knock sensor code and a lean condition on one bank of cylinders. Over the course of a several days, I replaced the corroded knock sensor and the aging oxygen sensors, as well as putting in new intake gaskets. Still had a lean condition. I pulled the injectors and cleaned them very thoroughly.
HOLY SMOKE. This thing is a ripper now! First gear is completely unnecessary for normal driving. It runs and idles very smoothly and is getting great gas mileage so far.
Despite the 5.3L V8 swap, it didn’t feel like it had all that much power.
I wired up an OBD2 port to the engine computer and accessed the codes with an app on my phone. Came up with a knock sensor code and a lean condition on one bank of cylinders. Over the course of a several days, I replaced the corroded knock sensor and the aging oxygen sensors, as well as putting in new intake gaskets. Still had a lean condition. I pulled the injectors and cleaned them very thoroughly.
HOLY SMOKE. This thing is a ripper now! First gear is completely unnecessary for normal driving. It runs and idles very smoothly and is getting great gas mileage so far.
Sleeper style! I always look for the shift cane in FJ40s as the fat canes identify some "work" has been done. I am a fan of the look of both canes, but lean towards the original skinny style like you have done. Great work!
Nice work. Curious what kind of mpg you’re seeing? I’ve been getting roughly 12 city and 15 highway. Also not sure how much off road driving you’re planning on doing but from this angle it looks like your front shaft will probably hit the down pipe behind the oil pan if you flex the suspension enough. I have the same routing but my down pipe is tucked up higher and I still hit it on my last wheeling trip.
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- #96
If my OBD2 app is to be believed, I’m getting about 15mpg cruising around at 35-50mph.
I cycled the axle up when the springs were off and didn’t hit anything, but I also don’t plan on any serious wheeling in this one.
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- #97
Not much happening on the build since last summer- work and travel got in the way. Took my 200 to Rocky Mountain National Park, visited the Alps in Switzerland, ate schnitzel in Germany, and just got back from seeing the mouse in Orlando.
After staring at the crooked front end for about six months, I broke down and bought a new set of OEM fenders to replace the aftermarket pair I had. With some help from my local Cruiser buddies, I got them hung and lined up. Very happy with the fit now.
After staring at the crooked front end for about six months, I broke down and bought a new set of OEM fenders to replace the aftermarket pair I had. With some help from my local Cruiser buddies, I got them hung and lined up. Very happy with the fit now.
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- #98
Now I’m working on adding the electrical accessories for a little creature comfort. I installed a console from CCOT a while back and I’m using it to provide space for the radio, some power outlets, and a spot to put the heated seat switches.
I mounted a double cigarette plug on the back with constant power, so I can plug in the fridge and charge devices while parked.
The current project is to build the stereo system with decent sound and enough volume to be heard on the highway in topless mode.
The Bluetooth head unit is inside the console, with a compact 4-channel amp mounted underneath the console.
Everybody knows that speaker mounting is a challenge in these rigs. I decided on the slick little aluminum speaker brackets from SOR.
Of course, aiming the speakers at your ankles is less than ideal so I bought Polk Audio component speakers with separate tweeters that I was able to mount flush in the dash pad. My dash already has a huge crack in it, so I didn’t have much to lose.
One of the drawbacks to the SOR brackets is that your clutching foot tends to bang into the speaker grill. The stock grill on my Polk speakers sticks out about 5/8” and would undoubtedly take a beating. I designed some custom rings to fit the exact size of my speakers and had the folks at sendcutsend.com make them. I installed the speakers from the bottom in foam baffles to protect them from splashes, and sandwiched some wire speaker mesh under the custom rings. I’m pretty happy with the look and there is plenty of clearance for my size 12.5 shoe on the clutch.
I mounted a double cigarette plug on the back with constant power, so I can plug in the fridge and charge devices while parked.
The current project is to build the stereo system with decent sound and enough volume to be heard on the highway in topless mode.
The Bluetooth head unit is inside the console, with a compact 4-channel amp mounted underneath the console.
Everybody knows that speaker mounting is a challenge in these rigs. I decided on the slick little aluminum speaker brackets from SOR.
Of course, aiming the speakers at your ankles is less than ideal so I bought Polk Audio component speakers with separate tweeters that I was able to mount flush in the dash pad. My dash already has a huge crack in it, so I didn’t have much to lose.
One of the drawbacks to the SOR brackets is that your clutching foot tends to bang into the speaker grill. The stock grill on my Polk speakers sticks out about 5/8” and would undoubtedly take a beating. I designed some custom rings to fit the exact size of my speakers and had the folks at sendcutsend.com make them. I installed the speakers from the bottom in foam baffles to protect them from splashes, and sandwiched some wire speaker mesh under the custom rings. I’m pretty happy with the look and there is plenty of clearance for my size 12.5 shoe on the clutch.
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- #99
Once I wired up the speakers and fired up the system, it was obvious that the little 5.25” woofers were totally lacking in bass.
I picked up a JL Audio 10” woofer designed for shallow mounting. JL puts the specs for the ideal enclosure in the owner’s manual - incredibly, it looks like it was designed to fit in the space under the seat of the 40 (some flattening of the seat bottom required).
Needless to say, with a little help from another amp this thing now has plenty of bass. The whole system plays loud and sounds great. I’ll add rear speakers later when I finish out the back with storage.
I picked up a JL Audio 10” woofer designed for shallow mounting. JL puts the specs for the ideal enclosure in the owner’s manual - incredibly, it looks like it was designed to fit in the space under the seat of the 40 (some flattening of the seat bottom required).
Needless to say, with a little help from another amp this thing now has plenty of bass. The whole system plays loud and sounds great. I’ll add rear speakers later when I finish out the back with storage.
Did you decide on where to put the switches for lockers?
