LX570 AHC Globe/Accumulator Replacement (10 Viewers)

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Was thinking about this. I don't think using the height positions has much impact on the system. As others said, the system and pump is petty active regardless.

Actually, using the easy entry function, or low when in park, puts less potential wear on the globes as more of the vehicle weight is on the coil springs. Either way, the system is robust and I would do hesitate to use it as you wish.

I just changed my globes. The ride is only incrementally better. That could just as much be the fluid flush. Or refreshed bushings on my new shocks. Or globes. But not world's apart and it rode excellent before too.

Biggest difference to me has been the speed at which it raises. I chalk that up to the less fluid volume necessary in the globes to generate the same pressure. Seems to lift in 5th accumulator volume only rather than also waiting on the pump for additional fluid volume.
Super helpful info here…..good thought on the less potential wear on the gloves in the low position.

Curious given only incrementally better ride, how many miles did your old gloves have on them?
 
Wonder if replacing the 5th globe would make a difference?
 
Super helpful info here…..good thought on the less potential wear on the gloves in the low position.

Curious given only incrementally better ride, how many miles did your old gloves have on them?

145k. I was more focused more on modifying, but figure while I was in there to refresh the system
 
Wonder if replacing the 5th globe would make a difference?

I believe the 5th accumulator is of a piston type rather than the membrane/bladder type that the 4 globes are. As I understand it, the piston types bleed down less and can be more durable.
 
Is there a torque value for reinstalling the globes? About to do this tonight……

@TeCKis300 did you go corner by corner? Bleeding/replacing the globe then purging with engine start/stop cycles. Did you bleed the 5th accumulator?

8772E8A8-ABD0-4D15-92FA-D4A878C6EEE5.jpeg
 
Is there a torque value for reinstalling the globes? About to do this tonight……

@TeCKis300 did you go corner by corner? Bleeding/replacing the globe then purging with engine start/stop cycles. Did you bleed the 5th accumulator?

View attachment 3037472

I replaced all in one go. Then bleed each axle at a time. Replaced fluid after bleeding all corners and letting the suspension come back to normal height.

As I replaced the shocks too, it sucked down a ton of fluids. Keep an eye on the reservoir and be ready to stop it if it gets low.

I used the manual bulb transfer pump from harbor freight that worked great.

I didn't bleed the fifth and figured all that fluid got pushed through in the process.
 
I replaced all in one go. Then bleed each axle at a time. Replaced fluid after bleeding all corners and letting the suspension come back to normal height.

As I replaced the shocks too, it sucked down a ton of fluids. Keep an eye on the reservoir and be ready to stop it if it gets low.

I used the manual bulb transfer pump from harbor freight that worked great.

I didn't bleed the fifth and figured all that fluid got pushed through in the process.
Gotcha. Thank you.

I bled the system 5 years/50k ago one corner at a time. I think I’ll roll with that since I am staying on original shocks- bleed/depressure, replace globe, bleed and purge until new fluid comes out.
 
Gotcha. Thank you.

I bled the system 5 years/50k ago one corner at a time. I think I’ll roll with that since I am staying on original shocks- bleed/depressure, replace globe, bleed and purge until new fluid comes out.
Are you going to use those plastic bottles?
The Lexus dealer told me to return all of them and exchange for the metal cans.
 
Are you going to use those plastic bottles?
The Lexus dealer told me to return all of them and exchange for the metal cans.
These are 2019 relics. They’re G2G leftover from when I did the flush last time.

Also have 2 2.5l cans from the March discount sale.
 
I completed this on Father's Day during 3 hour afternoon nap time. By far, the hardest part was removing the rear-most bolt holding the AHC tubular guards in place. I apparently did not have the correct combination of fittings to easily reach it. I eventually managed to drop it on the driver side only to realize that you can take all but the rear most bolt out and drop/slide the tubular assembly off to the side to facilitate the removal and installation of the globes like I did on the passenger side. @grinchy @TeCKis300 how the hell did you reach it?

Like @TeCKis300 suggested, my cordless impact did a great job; however, my lack of a quality impact rated socket did round off nearly all of the existing globe hex-heads. Fortunately, my 14" Knipex Cobras were enough to loosen and remove the globes. I suggest the purchase of a tightly fitted impact rated 21mm socket without internally tapered chamfers on the apexes of the hex to ensure proper engagement on the rather short stub.

I went from DSF/DSR/PSF/PSR doing 3 complete bleed and purge cycles per corner. The DSF took the most cycles to see fresh fluid come out due to its distance from the reservoir. I jerry-rigged a funnel that hung from the gas cap to keep the reservoir full of fluid. I received no AHC errors during the work and the pump kicked on re-pressurizing the system and lifting the unloaded corner each time.

Like last time, I was unable to evacuate any of the old fluid out of the reservoir - even after the removal of the inline filter screen. I simply diluted it with fresh fluid and flushed a total of 5 quarts through the system. The old fluid was purple/brownish after ~50k miles of street/mom duty. The original fluid was slightly darker when I changed it at 70k miles 4 years ago.

Overall, the ride is slightly improved. Perpendicular seams in the road are not as jarring as they were before and there is a more noticeable difference between Comfort/Normal/Sport settings. Placebo or not, it feels slightly more stable at highway speeds in excess of 90mph. I think one of the most noticeable differences is when idling forward and braking - there is no longer any bounce on the front end. Further, brake dive appears to be less as well. Dampening appears to overall be slightly better.

FWIW, the 2020 LX, even with 21s, still feels like it rides smoother than the 2014 with 120k miles. The Michelins on the 14LX are approaching 5 years and 60k miles so this may be a contributing factor.

F9943F12-05E9-4364-91F1-E1885AE57CCF.jpeg


PS - proof a 200 can withstand salt if cared for. Woolwax is an amazing product.
 
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I'm sure after doing this to my 14, I'll see the same results. I'm thinking there may be a sensor that isn't 100 % and replacing would make the Comfort/Normal/Sport settings react better. Just my 02.
 
I completed this on Father's Day during 3 hour afternoon nap time. By far, the hardest part was removing the rear-most bolt holding the AHC tubular guards in place. I apparently did not have the correct combination of fittings to easily reach it. I eventually managed to drop it on the driver side only to realize that you can take all but the rear most bolt out and drop/slide the tubular assembly off to the side to facilitate the removal and installation of the globes like I did on the passenger side. @grinchy @TeCKis300 how the hell did you reach it?

Like @TeCKis300 suggested, my cordless impact did a great job; however, my lack of a quality impact rated socket did round off nearly all of the existing globe hex-heads. Fortunately, my 14" Knipex Cobras were enough to loosen and remove the globes. I suggest the purchase of a tightly fitted impact rated 21mm socket without internally tapered chamfers on the apexes of the hex to ensure proper engagement on the rather short stub.

I went from DSF/DSR/PSF/PSR doing 3 complete bleed and purge cycles per corner. The DSF took the most cycles to see fresh fluid come out due to its distance from the reservoir. I jerry-rigged a funnel that hung from the gas cap to keep the reservoir full of fluid. I received no AHC errors during the work and the pump kicked on re-pressurizing the system and lifting the unloaded corner each time.

Like last time, I was unable to evacuate any of the old fluid out of the reservoir - even after the removal of the inline filter screen. I simply diluted it with fresh fluid and flushed a total of 5 quarts through the system. The old fluid was purple/brownish after ~50k miles of street/mom duty. The original fluid was slightly darker when I changed it at 70k miles 4 years ago.

Overall, the ride is slightly improved. Perpendicular seams in the road are not as jarring as they were before and there is a more noticeable difference between Comfort/Normal/Sport settings. Placebo or not, it feels slightly more stable at highway speeds in excess of 90mph. I think one of the most noticeable differences is when idling forward and braking - there is no longer any bounce on the front end. Further, brake dive appears to be less as well. Dampening appears to overall be slightly better.

FWIW, the 2020 LX, even with 21s, still feels like it rides smoother than the 2014 with 120k miles. The Michelins on the 14LX are approaching 5 years and 60k miles so this may be a contributing factor.

View attachment 3039560

PS - proof a 200 can withstand salt if cared for. Woolwax is an amazing product.
I think i used a ratcheting box wrench to get that rear bolt off. It is a PITA, and was even worse when installing the Slee Sliders.
 
I completed this on Father's Day during 3 hour afternoon nap time. By far, the hardest part was removing the rear-most bolt holding the AHC tubular guards in place. I apparently did not have the correct combination of fittings to easily reach it. I eventually managed to drop it on the driver side only to realize that you can take all but the rear most bolt out and drop/slide the tubular assembly off to the side to facilitate the removal and installation of the globes like I did on the passenger side. @grinchy @TeCKis300 how the hell did you reach it?

Like @TeCKis300 suggested, my cordless impact did a great job; however, my lack of a quality impact rated socket did round off nearly all of the existing globe hex-heads. Fortunately, my 14" Knipex Cobras were enough to loosen and remove the globes. I suggest the purchase of a tightly fitted impact rated 21mm socket without internally tapered chamfers on the apexes of the hex to ensure proper engagement on the rather short stub.

I went from DSF/DSR/PSF/PSR doing 3 complete bleed and purge cycles per corner. The DSF took the most cycles to see fresh fluid come out due to its distance from the reservoir. I jerry-rigged a funnel that hung from the gas cap to keep the reservoir full of fluid. I received no AHC errors during the work and the pump kicked on re-pressurizing the system and lifting the unloaded corner each time.

Like last time, I was unable to evacuate any of the old fluid out of the reservoir - even after the removal of the inline filter screen. I simply diluted it with fresh fluid and flushed a total of 5 quarts through the system. The old fluid was purple/brownish after ~50k miles of street/mom duty. The original fluid was slightly darker when I changed it at 70k miles 4 years ago.

Overall, the ride is slightly improved. Perpendicular seams in the road are not as jarring as they were before and there is a more noticeable difference between Comfort/Normal/Sport settings. Placebo or not, it feels slightly more stable at highway speeds in excess of 90mph. I think one of the most noticeable differences is when idling forward and braking - there is no longer any bounce on the front end. Further, brake dive appears to be less as well. Dampening appears to overall be slightly better.

FWIW, the 2020 LX, even with 21s, still feels like it rides smoother than the 2014 with 120k miles. The Michelins on the 14LX are approaching 5 years and 60k miles so this may be a contributing factor.

View attachment 3039560

PS - proof a 200 can withstand salt if cared for. Woolwax is an amazing product.
It's been long enough I don't remember. I think maybe two of the u joint socket adapters? Or I used a small ratcheting combination. I had it off a year previous while doing the side step delete so none of the bolts were frozen.
 
I completed this on Father's Day during 3 hour afternoon nap time. By far, the hardest part was removing the rear-most bolt holding the AHC tubular guards in place. I apparently did not have the correct combination of fittings to easily reach it. I eventually managed to drop it on the driver side only to realize that you can take all but the rear most bolt out and drop/slide the tubular assembly off to the side to facilitate the removal and installation of the globes like I did on the passenger side. @grinchy @TeCKis300 how the hell did you reach it?

Like @TeCKis300 suggested, my cordless impact did a great job; however, my lack of a quality impact rated socket did round off nearly all of the existing globe hex-heads. Fortunately, my 14" Knipex Cobras were enough to loosen and remove the globes. I suggest the purchase of a tightly fitted impact rated 21mm socket without internally tapered chamfers on the apexes of the hex to ensure proper engagement on the rather short stub.

I went from DSF/DSR/PSF/PSR doing 3 complete bleed and purge cycles per corner. The DSF took the most cycles to see fresh fluid come out due to its distance from the reservoir. I jerry-rigged a funnel that hung from the gas cap to keep the reservoir full of fluid. I received no AHC errors during the work and the pump kicked on re-pressurizing the system and lifting the unloaded corner each time.

Like last time, I was unable to evacuate any of the old fluid out of the reservoir - even after the removal of the inline filter screen. I simply diluted it with fresh fluid and flushed a total of 5 quarts through the system. The old fluid was purple/brownish after ~50k miles of street/mom duty. The original fluid was slightly darker when I changed it at 70k miles 4 years ago.

Overall, the ride is slightly improved. Perpendicular seams in the road are not as jarring as they were before and there is a more noticeable difference between Comfort/Normal/Sport settings. Placebo or not, it feels slightly more stable at highway speeds in excess of 90mph. I think one of the most noticeable differences is when idling forward and braking - there is no longer any bounce on the front end. Further, brake dive appears to be less as well. Dampening appears to overall be slightly better.

FWIW, the 2020 LX, even with 21s, still feels like it rides smoother than the 2014 with 120k miles. The Michelins on the 14LX are approaching 5 years and 60k miles so this may be a contributing factor.



PS - proof a 200 can withstand salt if cared for. Woolwax is an amazing product.
That one bolt is definitely a pain. I forget which combination of tools I used, but eventually got it off. On my 2009 currently running Michelin Defender tires I have noticeably different ride quality if I run 35psi vs 40psi. I very much prefer the road manners on these tires at 40psi, especially when I have more weight in the vehicle or towing. Might be worth adjusting tire pressure based on the exact tire model you're running to see if there is any difference you notice.
 
That one bolt is definitely a pain. I forget which combination of tools I used, but eventually got it off. On my 2009 currently running Michelin Defender tires I have noticeably different ride quality if I run 35psi vs 40psi. I very much prefer the road manners on these tires at 40psi, especially when I have more weight in the vehicle or towing. Might be worth adjusting tire pressure based on the exact tire model you're running to see if there is any difference you notice.
What size defenders are you running? That is what I am looking at replacing the existing Michelin's with. Debating stock vs 275/60/20 for more sidewall. Dont think it's worth the MPG hit, though.
 
What size defenders are you running? That is what I am looking at replacing the existing Michelin's with. Debating stock vs 275/60/20 for more sidewall. Dont think it's worth the MPG hit, though.
I went with the 275/60/20 as well. They've been on the truck for 19 months now and have performed very well. I like them much more than the old Michel Latitude's.
 
I went with the 275/60/20 as well. They've been on the truck for 19 months now and have performed very well. I like them much more than the old Michel Latitude's.
Yep that’s what’s on there now. Couldn’t recall the name.
 
After a few hundred miles with some more seat time. I’ve also noticed that the lowering feature on the highway is smoother in operation. It used to really be quite noticeable under moderate to heavy acceleration. Now it’s a much subtler sensation.
 
I completed this on Father's Day during 3 hour afternoon nap time. By far, the hardest part was removing the rear-most bolt holding the AHC tubular guards in place. I apparently did not have the correct combination of fittings to easily reach it. I eventually managed to drop it on the driver side only to realize that you can take all but the rear most bolt out and drop/slide the tubular assembly off to the side to facilitate the removal and installation of the globes like I did on the passenger side. @grinchy @TeCKis300 how the hell did you reach it?

Like @TeCKis300 suggested, my cordless impact did a great job; however, my lack of a quality impact rated socket did round off nearly all of the existing globe hex-heads. Fortunately, my 14" Knipex Cobras were enough to loosen and remove the globes. I suggest the purchase of a tightly fitted impact rated 21mm socket without internally tapered chamfers on the apexes of the hex to ensure proper engagement on the rather short stub.

Missed this and glad you worked through it.

I don't remember how I reached the last bolt, but I recall it needed some creativity.

In regards to the globes and the low profile nuts, its probably important to use a good fitting 6-point socket. They tend to round off bolts less than some 12-point sockets.
 

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