Tesla head unit install (pre2016 LC) - first impressions and a couple bugs to figure out (1 Viewer)

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kcjaz

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Olathe, KS
I plan on doing a detailed write-up on my install of EC Offroad 16" unit. So far I'm happy with it. I knew going in that there would likely be some issues and things that would take time to resolve and maybe somethings I'd just have to accept to get what I really wanted which was a large nav screen without having to mount an iPad separately. Apple Carplay was a bonus.

Here are some thoughts/current issues I'm trying to figure out:

1. Apple Carplay is pretty good. Never used it before. The only thing I don’t like is the Apple dumbed down version of Google maps. Maybe there are some settings I have yet to find but I like the full version of Google maps I can run directly on the Android unit better.

2. Wifi will not auto connect to iPhone. It does autoconnect to home wifi. After forcing it to connect to iPhone it works but when rebooted, the wifi is off and I have to delete the saved iPhone and reconnect it manually. This is my current biggest annoyance.

3. Altitude is in meters. Was able to change to US units for everything else but not altitude. Can this be changed to ft?

4. Clock is off by 13 hours. I reset it to local time but after reboot it reverts to +13 hours ahead. I have toggled DST on and off, no difference.
 
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I have the EC Offroad Android CarPlay unit, not the larger screen like yours, but my clock won’t stay set either. Haven’t been able to figure it out. Would love to see pictures of yours when you have time.
 
I have the EC Offroad Android CarPlay unit, not the larger screen like yours, but my clock won’t stay set either. Haven’t been able to figure it out. Would love to see pictures of yours when you have time.
Here is the first time I fired it up and got it all working.

86E25522-15FC-4526-BADA-42BAEECD3037.jpeg


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I have the EC Offroad Android CarPlay unit, not the larger screen like yours, but my clock won’t stay set either. Haven’t been able to figure it out.
Got clock fixed:
 
How are the ac controls?
They all work. In my case, I generally leave it in auto and just use the hard temperature buttons to adjust the temp. In the winter, I'll hit the defrost. The main point is that it all works. What I don't know is what would happen if the unit "bricked". I wonder if all HVAC functions would be off or if it would be doing whatever it was set to do when the HU died.
 
They all work. In my case, I generally leave it in auto and just use the hard temperature buttons to adjust the temp. In the winter, I'll hit the defrost. The main point is that it all works. What I don't know is what would happen if the unit "bricked". I wonder if all HVAC functions would be off or if it would be doing whatever it was set to do when the HU died.
Yea I would love a head unit like that but I live in south Texas tooooo hot not to be able to have the ac on.
 
They all work. In my case, I generally leave it in auto and just use the hard temperature buttons to adjust the temp. In the winter, I'll hit the defrost. The main point is that it all works. What I don't know is what would happen if the unit "bricked". I wonder if all HVAC functions would be off or if it would be doing whatever it was set to do when the HU died.
No idea if the same thing would happen, but the head unit in my LX470 died early on in ownership (well within warranty). When it happened, it defaulted to Auto mode and the minimum temperature. That was a long, cold, ~40 minute drive to the dealer.

You may not be able to answer this as your factory HVAC controls are different, but how do you adjust the temp on the head unit itself? On the 2020, the hard button temperature controls are gone after installing a unit like this. It looks like on the 2016+ version on EC's site that the right rotary knob is labeled Temp and the left knob adjusts the fan speed. So that would leave figuring out how to adjust the temp separately for the driver and passenger. I'm very tempted. I currently have their interface module which works well, but the low resolution factory display is still a big limiting factor.
 
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Yea I would love a head unit like that but I live in south Texas tooooo hot not to be able to have the ac on.
Well, the effect a failure would have on the settings would most likely be no different from the factory head unit failing. I guess the main question is how much more likely is it for this aftermarket unit to fail?
 
Well, the effect a failure would have on the settings would most likely be no different from the factory head unit failing. I guess the main question is how much more likely is it for this aftermarket unit to fail?
All I can say is the OEM upper and lower units, while lacking in functionality, are built like tanks with metal parts that screw and bolt to other metal parts. There are also many more OEM units over a long period of time out there in LC service. I have to believe that the reliability of the OEM unit is much better but that doesn't mean the risk of the Tesla units bricking is high. It would take less than an hour (I know because I've done it) to put the OEM units back in if necessary. Longer of course after its no longer fresh in my head. Its risk I'm willing to take to get the functionality I want.

@Romer has been running one for about two years now.
 
No idea if the same thing would happen, but the head unit in my LX470 died early on in ownership (well within warranty). When it happened, it defaulted to Auto mode and the minimum temperature. That was a long, cold, ~40 minute drive to the dealer.

You may not be able to answer this as your factory HVAC controls are different, but how do you adjust the temp on the head unit itself? On the 2020, the hard button temperature controls are gone after installing a unit like this. It looks like on the 2016+ version on EC's site that the right rotary knob is labeled Temp and the left knob adjusts the fan speed. So that would leave figuring out how to adjust the temp separately for the driver and passenger. I'm very tempted. I currently have their interface module which works well, but the low resolution factory display is still a big limiting factor.
Everything can be controlled by the touch screen. The part at the bottom is always there providing access to some common functions and it’s a quick swipe up to get all the controls.
 
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Well, the effect a failure would have on the settings would most likely be no different from the factory head unit failing. I guess the main question is how much more likely is it for this aftermarket unit to fail?
I saved my factory unit in case it failed. It takes less than an hour to put it back in

It has worked great for the two years I have had it

The buttons for temp and thee steering wheel all work. I use the speak button on the sterring wheel as a mute button, that is the default but I believe you can reprogram them

It does have a few minor annoying things:
  1. If you start the cruiser and go into reverse too fast (like a couple of seconds) it stays on the camera screen and sometimes doesn't have an image. I have found pressing the mode button on the steering wheel typically corrects this. If not since it is backing out of my Garage, then I just stop and restart. IOt doesnt happen if you wit 10 seconds or so
  2. Occasionally the music player switches from shuffle to loop, I just press the shuffle button
  3. Occasionally the radio station changes while driving. I just set it back
Item 2 and 3 are more prevalent when it is parked in the Hot sun (over 90 deg F), I bought a windshield shade to compensate

The USB is awesome for loading music to the unit. I have my whole music library on there. Also for loading videos, photos or other things you may want on an android.

I connect via Wifi at home for updates and to load GAIA maps. I also hot spot wifi via my phone when out and about and I want connectivity

The GAIA app and maps work awesome off road

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IMG_0282.jpg

IMG_0279.jpg
 
I saved my factory unit in case it failed. It takes less than an hour to put it back in
Yeah, taking the dash apart isn't too bad (I currently have EC Offroad's Android module that retains the factory screen and all factory functionality). The main issue with a failure would be if it happened in the middle of a long trip and you end up 500+ miles from home and didn't bring the factory unit with you (I would think most people wouldn't bother).

The buttons for temp and thee steering wheel all work. I use the speak button on the sterring wheel as a mute button, that is the default but I believe you can reprogram them
One concern I have on switching to this from a usability perspective is that on a 2020 the factory temp buttons end up being deleted with this swap. So I would be at the mercy of how easy the controls on the Android unit are to get at and use.

I connect via Wifi at home for updates and to load GAIA maps. I also hot spot wifi via my phone when out and about and I want connectivity
On my current EC Offroad module, I can also use WiFi at home if needed, but I also have a MOFI 4500 mobile hotspot connected via an Ethernet to USB adapter (network cable from MOFI unit to the Ethernet to USB adapter and the Ethernet to USB adapter plugged into one of the EC Offroad module's USB ports). The Ethernet to USB adapter is also a USB hub, so I have a wireless keyboard dongle and USB flash drive connected as well. I suspect all of this would work just fine on these Tesla style units. The mobile hotspot is installed behind the door in the cargo area where a first aid kit would go. Something along these lines might be a solution for the problem @kcjaz is having getting his iPhone to provide Internet access to the unit.

Regarding using wireless CarPlay and using the iPhone as a mobile hotspot, iPhone's don't support doing both at the same time. That's one of the reasons I ended up going with the separate mobile hotspot. The only downside to this approach is it does take the hotspot a minute or so to boot up and start providing Internet access when starting the car, so a bit of patience is required if Internet service is needed right away.
 
Regarding using wireless CarPlay and using the iPhone as a mobile hotspot, iPhone's don't support doing both at the same time.
Yep. I have confirmed this by trying multiple times. it will connect and do both but not for long.
 
I saved my factory unit in case it failed. It takes less than an hour to put it back in

It has worked great for the two years I have had it

The buttons for temp and thee steering wheel all work. I use the speak button on the sterring wheel as a mute button, that is the default but I believe you can reprogram them

It does have a few minor annoying things:
  1. If you start the cruiser and go into reverse too fast (like a couple of seconds) it stays on the camera screen and sometimes doesn't have an image. I have found pressing the mode button on the steering wheel typically corrects this. If not since it is backing out of my Garage, then I just stop and restart. IOt doesnt happen if you wit 10 seconds or so
  2. Occasionally the music player switches from shuffle to loop, I just press the shuffle button
  3. Occasionally the radio station changes while driving. I just set it back
Item 2 and 3 are more prevalent when it is parked in the Hot sun (over 90 deg F), I bought a windshield shade to compensate

The USB is awesome for loading music to the unit. I have my whole music library on there. Also for loading videos, photos or other things you may want on an android.

I connect via Wifi at home for updates and to load GAIA maps. I also hot spot wifi via my phone when out and about and I want connectivity

The GAIA app and maps work awesome off road

View attachment 3035944View attachment 3035943
View attachment 3035941

I actually wonder if the camera issue is a Toyota problem. On my 2013, sometimes if I go to reverse before the OEM Nav has fully booted the camera comes on, and sometime it takes 5-10 seconds (and possibly a few shifts in and out of reverse) before the camera actually works and isn't just a black screen. (This is prior to me extending the harness recently to relocate the camera, so it's not a cable length issue). I'm wondering if the camera doesn't always power up quickly enough. It's a 6V camera that only receives power when you go into reverse. I wonder if you replaced it with a 12V camera and powered that off the ignition circuit so that it was always powered up so long as the vehicle is on if this would go away...
 
I actually wonder if the camera issue is a Toyota problem. On my 2013, sometimes if I go to reverse before the OEM Nav has fully booted the camera comes on, and sometime it takes 5-10 seconds (and possibly a few shifts in and out of reverse) before the camera actually works and isn't just a black screen. (This is prior to me extending the harness recently to relocate the camera, so it's not a cable length issue). I'm wondering if the camera doesn't always power up quickly enough. It's a 6V camera that only receives power when you go into reverse. I wonder if you replaced it with a 12V camera and powered that off the ignition circuit so that it was always powered up so long as the vehicle is on if this would go away...
Maybe, but I can wait a few seconds :) I also relocated mine to work with the Slee Rear Bumper

Backside of the Slee basket mounted to the ladder
IMG_0477.jpg
 
Maybe, but I can wait a few seconds :) I also relocated mine to work with the Slee Rear Bumper

Backside of the Slee basket mounted to the ladder
View attachment 3036496
I just put my camera in a similar spot on my RLC.

I don’t mind waiting but when I forget or for some reason it’s slow to respond I get annoyed. I’m impatient if you haven’t figured that out already ;)
 
I'm assuming you lose rear DVD entertainment system control with these?
 

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