Just replaced my CVs with CVJ axles, D/S went in without issue, snap ring on P/S seems a little too thick to slide in all the way, do they make these in slimmer thicknesses?
Axle snap ring doesn't fit? (1 Viewer)
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Yes it will, you'll need the M8x1.25 bolt however
TexLexican
SILVER Star
Can you explain the purpose of this contraption? Does the FSM recommend this with appropriate torque?
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Pulls the CV out from the hub, maybe just enough to set the c-clip. Not an official SST.
Exactly. The FSM states the c-clip should have a max gap between the clip and flange of 0.2mm. I removed the steering knuckle and greased the bushing well, and just pushing the axle through from behind won't necessarily seat it to the spindle bushing within that kind of tolerance. This improvised tool is pulling on the axle with that middle bolt by tightening the nut on the bolt. There are some great YouTube videos by ME MY, the 6th in his series of the rotor install walk through using a 'real' axle puller to set the c-clip gap.
TexLexican
SILVER Star
So if the gap is too big the obvious thing to do is buy a thicker snap ring, right? Even by pulling on the CV what prevents it from getting sucked back in?
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Correct. There are multiple sizes of snap rings and you have to select the largest size that gives you the smallest gap.
TexLexican
SILVER Star
A little off topic… I’ve gone through threads explaining the CV install, but is there any risk in pushing the diff seal further in while seating the CV?
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
I believe if the diff seal is not installed in the correct spot (depth) there is a higher chance of a leak forming.
Update, NM, I didn't see this was answered above already.
Was having the same issue today and fashioned my own cv axle puller.
One time use! haha
I’ll be buying the tool the @TheForger makes in the next 30k miles.
One time use! haha
I’ll be buying the tool the @TheForger makes in the next 30k miles.
We always want to replace snap ring, even if gap if less than 0.20mm gap pre FSM spec. The snap ring expands, when installed, than expands more when removed. So it no longer fit tightly around the axle within it's groove. Which can result in damaging axle groove and snap ring popping off. Silly to risk a $600 FDS (AKA CV) axle, for a $3 snap ring.
Haha, if you look closely at mine there is a piece of flat steel sandwiched between two pieces of angle aluminum. The steel seemed pretty stiff until I started torquing it down. Hammered it flat and scavenged the aluminum from scrap in the garage. If I were to do it again I'd just use the angle stock. If the open end is pointed towards the rotor it is very strong. If it points out it will just buckle. I was gonna go with steel square tube originally but holy heck it is expensive now.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Is it possible to set the snap ring too tight? I used a new E snap ring which is what was originally on there (I do have all sizes in my drawer) but as soon as I took it out for a drive around the neighborhood, I heard rubbing noise from the front driver side. Not constant, but more cyclical. When I got under the truck I noticed that the dust shield seems to be rubbing on the knuckle. I used the CV puller someone on here (can't remember who) sells. It worked great and I basically slowly turned until the axle stopped moving, removed the tool and put the snap ring in. Is it possible to pull the axle too far to where the dust shield hits the back of the knuckle? For what it's worth, I can't get even my smallest feeler gauge in behind the snap ring. I know it's supposed to have less than a .2mm? gap, but does it need to have SOME gap?
- New OEM axle
- New hub flange/gasket/cone washers
- New "E" snap ring
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I have to admit, I'm a bit lost as to why the end float (<0.2mm) is so critical??? My experience is with the solid axle 80 series, and they have plenty of axle end float, but that's a fully floating axle design.
If the bearings are holding the hub in place, what happens if the axle end float exceeds 0.2mm?
The way I see it, if zero end float is the aim, Toyota should have designed it with some sort of threaded nut to retain the axle in place with zero tolerance.
If the bearings are holding the hub in place, what happens if the axle end float exceeds 0.2mm?
The way I see it, if zero end float is the aim, Toyota should have designed it with some sort of threaded nut to retain the axle in place with zero tolerance.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Agreed. There are a number of things that don't make sense to me (but surely did to the engineers). Like why is there no built-in shelf for the axle oil seals to rest on in the diff tube....
Assuming your dust shield that'd rubbing on knuckle is not bent. Which many are in transporting and during assembly by touching LCA..
Very likely your brass bushing worn to thin or is missing. It's this bushing that accounts for most wear, require thicker snap rings. I've put snap rings on so tight. They must be tap into groove of axle, without issue. A very tight snap ring, will just cause brass bushing in back of knuckle (the one you should have greased) to wear a little more rapidly.
Worn out brass bushing, no grease grooves.
No brass bushing installed.
Brass bushing installed
Brass bushing lubed, and seal in ready for install.
I keep my axle "pulling tool" on and pulling axle out very hard. As I place snap ring on, after spinning wheel hub to settle grease a few times..
If the axle moves in and out past FSM recommend < .20mm. A few bad things can happen, here's two:
1) Increased wear of axle and hub flange teeth (splines), due to sawing action of axle moving in and out. If wheel bearings chattering (vibrating) due to being loose or bad bearings. It then turns the axle moving in and out past design limitation, into a power saw.
2) The excess gap, causes increase pounding snap ring and brass bushing. This widen gaps as it damages groove in axle and increase wear of brass bushing. Snap ring pops off. Reusing snap ring, they also pop off, faster if gap to wide.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Interesting. I will do some more investigating today. I am hoping it's the dust shield, but i've seen them bent in transport before and mine was not bent. I guess I will need to climb under the car and see if I can tell where the noise is coming from.
I should mention there was no noise coming from this side prior to this. I just happened to get a good deal on an OEM CV and got it to replace the one with a damaged boot.
Regarding the brass bushing, mine was definitely still there and still in good shape as far as I could tell. I didn't grease the bushing directly, but I did grease the back of axle where it makes contact as well as the spindle bearings.
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