So what LC projects is everyone working on? (1 Viewer)

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That's pretty cool stuff. The stock 1fz-fe will support 600 hp pretty easily and 15-18 psi is about what it takes to hit that. The Wits End turbo setup uses a turbo with a pretty similar map to the 8374. Both have a ton more potential if you turn up the boost. The Wits End is boost controlled to about 7-8 psi because that is all the stock ecu will support. I will probably do and adjustable set up and run like 10-12 normally with the ability to jump up for silliness. Going bigger on boost means stiffer valve springs and possibly bigger rods. Here's a good dyno fail video at 1500 hp lol. Aussie guys are getting close to the 3000 hp mark.


Lots of energy there when that engine decided to grenade. Luckily no one was standing inside that dyno cell. Years ago I was at the GM-Allison facility in Indianapolis for some testing of the transmission they were building for the M-1 tank. They were using the old test cells built to run Allison aircraft engines during WW2. I imagine back than a few of those engines self destructed in a big way.
 
Made it back to Michigan with the fire truck!

The to do list is always evolving, but here's where it stands for now:

  • Install power steering
    • Rebuild box and pump
    • Have custom lines built
  • Hack out rear seat and rebuild flat floor
    • May do a body lift to clear frame
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-Rob
 
ADD in full swing.
Got Chunk back on the road with new 4.10 gears
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Zippy the 40 has been getting little trim items here and there to get ready for @Ocho77 ’s party.
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My sister @LuluonSL just got her LX450 and I have a bunch to do to it before Cruise Michigan also.
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Aaaaaaand messed around getting the 45 engine unstuck. Got it turning but have a fresh 1f in my fj55 parts truck that fired right up after sitting several years so I am thinking engine swap.
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Finally got around to the front seals and cooling system refresh on the 80. Thanks @dogfishlake for letting me borrow essential tools to get the crank pulley bolt off (and back on)! Removing that monster was a battle, the starter bump method failed so I went at it with a 3/4" breaker bar and 3' cheater - given how hard I was pulling and leverage, I'm guessing easily 600-800 ft-lbs to crack it.

Thought that was the end of my grief but those oil pump cover screws everyone talks about... yeah, they suck. 5 out of 7 zipped out with an impact no problem, the other 2 not so much. Bottom line on those for anyone who takes on this project, at least what worked for me: a few short heating/cooling cycles. In hindsight I should have torched all of them before the first attempt.

New seals are in, crank pulley back on, now the home stretch replacing pretty much everything in the cooling system - hoses, clamps, rad, tstat, water pump, idler pulleys. Hope to have it back on the road this weekend.

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Finally got around to the front seals and cooling system refresh on the 80. Thanks @dogfishlake for letting me borrow essential tools to get the crank pulley bolt off (and back on)! Removing that monster was a battle, the starter bump method failed so I went at it with a 3/4" breaker bar and 3' cheater - given how hard I was pulling and leverage, I'm guessing easily 600-800 ft-lbs to crack it.

Thought that was the end of my grief but those oil pump cover screws everyone talks about... yeah, they suck. 5 out of 7 zipped out with an impact no problem, the other 2 not so much. Bottom line on those for anyone who takes on this project, at least what worked for me: a few short heating/cooling cycles. In hindsight I should have torched all of them before the first attempt.

New seals are in, crank pulley back on, now the home stretch replacing pretty much everything in the cooling system - hoses, clamps, rad, tstat, water pump, idler pulleys. Hope to have it back on the road this weekend.

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Awesome!! That oil pump cover and dizzy o-ring solved all of my leaks. Not to bad of a project. Looking good!!!
 
Finally got around to the front seals and cooling system refresh on the 80. Thanks @dogfishlake for letting me borrow essential tools to get the crank pulley bolt off (and back on)! Removing that monster was a battle, the starter bump method failed so I went at it with a 3/4" breaker bar and 3' cheater - given how hard I was pulling and leverage, I'm guessing easily 600-800 ft-lbs to crack it.

Thought that was the end of my grief but those oil pump cover screws everyone talks about... yeah, they suck. 5 out of 7 zipped out with an impact no problem, the other 2 not so much. Bottom line on those for anyone who takes on this project, at least what worked for me: a few short heating/cooling cycles. In hindsight I should have torched all of them before the first attempt.

New seals are in, crank pulley back on, now the home stretch replacing pretty much everything in the cooling system - hoses, clamps, rad, tstat, water pump, idler pulleys. Hope to have it back on the road this weekend.

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That is a good project almost done! A full cooling system refresh is intensive with oem stuff but pretty essential for a 1FZ-FE. Overheating is about the only thing that can kill it. No oil leaks is awesome too!
 

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