Fridge 12 V cord to Anderson Plugs Questions? (1 Viewer)

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Yes I got the 6 piece standard L track kit from USCC, sourced my own shorter hardware and got the correct profile plastic end caps off amazon. All the L track and fridge slide mounting holes got 1/4x20x9/16" tnuts through the backside of the plywood. The whole thing bolts in the back of the truck with 4 bolts into rivnuts through the floor.
 
I don't mean the PP connector itself, more the connector/connection that attaches to the fridge. Looked like yours is reinforced rigidly going outward, so it seemed that you are going to need extra space to accommodate that.
 
The fridge plug is a right angle plug. But the cord orients to the passenger side of the vehicle. So I just loop it up and back to the drivers side and into the cable chain. I guess this wouldn't be necessary if the fridge was on the passenger side, but I didn't want that in this vehicle.

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ouch, so sorry, that was unclear, I meant the connector on the battery going to the fridge. My mistake. I meant that the way you set up the PP with the shrink wrap seems to waste a lot of space since it goes straight out from the battery. It looks very professional as it is, indeed, nice, but I would just bend the wires coming out of the PP, and try to support/wrap them somehow, if even necessary. So it basically looks like your fridge (yes) plug, so much more compact. TBH, I have lots of PP connectors on cables without any shrink wrap whatsoever and they are just fine. But, eh, if you have the room, then enjoy the beautiful shrink wrap and sheath job!
 
The extra heat shrink behind the pp definitely makes the cord stiff there. I can bend it by hand , but it it is stouter than just the zip cord inside the loom for sure. I only thought of adding heat shrink there to hold the loom in place, didn't think about it becoming stiff. It is still bendable and It doesn't interfere with folding the seat up. I'll see if it annoys be long term and make a new one if needed.
 

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