What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (29 Viewers)

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Finally put on the steering wheel skin that I bought from @MScruiser almost 4 years ago. It was just as much fun as I thought it would be.

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Ruff stuff, the taller pair they offer. The lower shock mounts they sell are nice the way angle up to not catch on rocks when backing up or coming down



Did you have to modify the shock towers for the steering linkage to the steering box?
 
the PDI one I fitted made a noticeable improvement, works out to around $470usd not sure what the shipping cost is Products — Performance Diesel Intercoolers - https://www.performancedieselintercoolers.com.au/products

I got a decent quote on shipping from PDI, $130 shipped to me here in AZ. Cant see it being too much more for you @Fj80oregon My concern with the PDI booster is that vacuum port is on the opposite side and would it cause problems for US Spec left hand drive 80s?
 
If it's still working as intended why replace it? Seems silly.
That’s why I have not yet. Honestly it’s just the look of it everything is fresh and rebuilt after the motor swap. Maybe I’ll paint it one day😁
 
Hi Folks,

I'm pretty sure my rear main seal is leaking. I already did my upper pan arch seal and it's still leaking in the same general area, so I'm pretty sure it's actually the rear main. Do I need to pull the whole drivetrain out to tackle this job? Has anybody dropped just the tranny? I've also read that pulling just the engine is possible, but quite a chore compared to pulling engine/tranny/tcase together. Having the engine on a stand do do various maintenance sounds wonderful, but if I can just fix the rear main with as little ancillary work as possible, that would probably be the way I go. I have a tendency to bite off more than I can chew and leave projects unfinished, so I'm nervous about anything that will take the clunker off the road for an extended period of time. But I also have a pretty low tolerance for dripping oil on the ground (at my house or out in the woods).

What would MUD do?
Anything is possible especially if you pulled the upper pan while the engine was in the truck! Good work. The hardest part of the whole thing is the top two transmission bell housing bolts connecting the motor up. If you where to lift the motor up with a hoist and drop the rear of the trans you can get to them with motor mounts removed. It’s a lot of work to get to that point and would be even harder to line it all up when putting together. It can be done. I just went through a swap and pulling the whole package was a chore by myself but doable. If you had a competent hand you could prob pull the whole thing swap in fresh seal do oil pan again and put back in. Probably a two day job honestly. I pulled the whole front end apart to make it easier on my self to get in and out. Some say you can access those bolts with long extensions over the transmission or through the shifter console if you remove the shifter plate assembly. I tried both methods and failed so I just pulled the whole thing. And the dam harness and trans lines make it tough in the truck. Maybe someone will chime In that has done just a rear main seal. Anyways good luck.
 
Question.
I am sorta done with the HIR constant merry-go-round. Pretty consistently replacing them every 18 months.
I am looking at the Morimoto Two Stroke 3.0 9005/9006 LEDs. These seem to check of all the boxes. Most importantly, the LEDs are in the same place as the filaments on a halogen, and you can rotate them in the house to fine tune the beam pattern. Throw in a great driver and very novel cooling system....and aside from the price, they seem like a winner. (I mean they are not legal from the DOT perspective).


Has anyone tried these yet?
Or the Scamazon Farhen version for 1/4 the price?
 
I recently installed the booster from City Racer($250) it works fine and great customer service by the way. I couldn't bring myself to pay the almost $900 for Toyota OEM. Cruiser outfitters also has them for under $350(also excellent customer service). I just thought since you had the brake fluid and MC already out, the booster would be so much easier to install. The orientation is the same as OEM. Maybe yours will be ok though. Best of luck!
Man I know? I tested it and it specs out per the FSM. If they didn’t cost $800⬆️ I would have already ordered.
 
My 80 has sacrificed its spot inside the garage for the past month or so while I've been working on this thing with my son. Finally pulled the minitruck out of the garage last night (temporarily) and the 80 was moved back in for some routine maintenance.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Three of the Four Toyota 4WDs. The fourth one (1985 flatbed pickup with 1UZ) is behind the gate on the side of the house.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
Interesting roll bar. What's the the concept behind that design?
The idea was that I just wanted to do something different and a bit more unique but still functional. I like the lines of a lot of prerunner bed cages so this was inspired by some of those like this one pictured. Most prerunner cages are cut into the rear of the cab. I didn’t want to do that which is why there is a main hoop behind the cab. Most also have a horizontal tube connecting the two sides at the lower junction in the legs. I didn’t want that horizontal tube in the way of using the bed space so instead of that I added some support to the legs with the plates that connect to the main hoop. I could have done that with a tube but the plates have the “look” of plated upper shock mounts on prerunners. So I did the plates partly for that aesthetic but also to add the support where I wanted it.
This truck isn’t a dedicated trail rig and will occasionally be used for regular truck stuff around the house so I wanted to be able to have a completely empty bed at those times so there are sleeved connections at the top of the main hoop and where the plates connect to the main hoop so the cage can all be removed easily but leaving the main hoop as the only permanent part, kinda like a headache rack.
There are also frame tie-ins under the bed so it isn’t just mounted to the bed. Also we plan to add an in-cab cage too so it should have ample rollover protection.
So yeah, I know it’s different and kinda funky and not everyone will like it but it should function well enough for all we want it to do and it gives the truck something kinda unique instead of looking like all the other minitrucks out there. Long-winded explaination of the chaos that was in my brain while building it. haha
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I recently installed the booster from City Racer($250) it works fine and great customer service by the way. I couldn't bring myself to pay the almost $900 for Toyota OEM. Cruiser outfitters also has them for under $350(also excellent customer service). I just thought since you had the brake fluid and MC already out, the booster would be so much easier to install. The orientation is the same as OEM. Maybe yours will be ok though. Best of luck!

We offer a Japanese (OE manufacture) brake booster for the FZJ80 (Part# BBN60792, $327.50). There are obviously some aftermarket import units that are less $ and folks have had good luck with but at $327.50, we are pretty happy with the Japanese units :cool:
 
We offer a Japanese (OE manufacture) brake booster for the FZJ80 (Part# BBN60792, $327.50). There are obviously some aftermarket import units that are less $ and folks have had good luck with but at $327.50, we are pretty happy with the Japanese units :cool:

That's a screamer deal. The OEM booster lists for north of 900 bucks.
 

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