No mechanic will touch my AHC. DIY repair advice? (1 Viewer)

[BigMaineWomen]

Hey All,

2004 LX470. I need to replace my rear passenger hydraulic line that goes from the top of the shock. It is leaking from a pinhole up near the accumulator. After bringing it to a nearby mechanic who absolutely could not wrap his head around the repair and wanted to cut in to the body above the shock, and then the "best" mechanic around who flat out refused to touch it... i'm feeling out of options. I think i am plenty capable to do the repair myself... yesterday I did the two post cat O2 sensors and changed out a leaking exhaust flange in an hour. I have looked at a LOT of threads that relate to the repair and just want to get any additional advice on doing it. I have read that a flex head ratchet wrench is the best option on the rear so I will be picking a set of those up. Does anyone know what size the head is on the two bolts for the line at the top of the shock? I have the parts already and a couple spare felt backup rings in case i accidentally mash them up. Tips, tricks, tools, advice, anything to help me get this done would be great.

Thank you

 

[GTS550]

I don't have any useful advice to provide, other than to wish you the best of luck. I'm in Minnesota and struggled for a long time with whether to attempt replacing the AHC globes on my rusty 06LC myself. In the end, I took it to a local Toyota dealership (after getting a bunch of quotes) and they did the job for $600-ish before a Costco parts & service coupon. Just know that the dealership is always an option -- though pricey, yada yada.

 

[97 AZ LC]

This pinhole is an omen. It's telling you to get rid of the AHC system before it rusts out any more. Finding a mechanic to do the conversion should be fairly easy but it also sounds like you could do it yourself.

 

[BigMaineWomen]

This pinhole is an omen. It's telling you to get rid of the AHC system before it rusts out any more. Finding a mechanic to do the conversion should be fairly easy but it also sounds like you could do it yourself.

You are probably right. Actually the omen was probably when i had total break failure the month before on one of the loop-d-loop brake lines coming down from the master cylinder. But i've spent several hundred dollars on parts to do both rear AHC lines (and probably the fronts will be next...) because if this car leaves my wife stranded one more time i think she might set it on fire, with me inside.

Does anyone have a brand recommendation on flex head ratchet wrenches? Or do you think the shortys would work better? Kobalt is 90 tooth vs craftsman at 72 tooth so i can get bolt rotation with less degrees swing room on Kobalt.

I ordered the parts from one of the dealers online to save vs my local dealer, which charges sometimes MSRP x2 and online dealer x3. I doubt they would install the parts not sourced directly from them.

 

[94SRUNNER]

I think this is the closest Cruiser Club to you in Maine. It may be worth cross-posting here to see if there is a local resource to assist.

MA/NH- Yankee Toys

forum.ih8mud.com

Fellow Cruiser Heads are generally willing to lend a hand.

 

[Funner]

Simple enough

AHC removal / delete experience

Here're some things I learnt along the way while removing AHC from our 01 LX470. I am removing AHC because I am adding front (T13) and rear bumpers (BIOR) and have sliders (OPOR), and I don't want the AHC collapsing on me while exploring far away. 1. Drain the AHC fluid from every AHC bleeder...

forum.ih8mud.com

Or just put a sheet metal screw in the pinhole

 

[Jcreme]

This pinhole is an omen. It's telling you to get rid of the AHC system before it rusts out any more. Finding a mechanic to do the conversion should be fairly easy but it also sounds like you could do it yourself.

Agree it is an omen for continued problems. It breaks my heart when someone pulls the system - its a great system. Probably my favorite feature of the whole vehicle. I mean it can ride like a limousine one minute, handle legit off-roading the next. It can auto level, lift you out of a high center, squat under low clearance, adjust damping on the fly - I love it!

But it's just like a pinhole in a brake line: it won't be the last. The lines need to be replaced.

Sounds like a previous owner didn't change fluids often enough #sadface

 

[Badlarry]

I feel for you! I’m down in Alna and have been looking for a capable Indi wrench to tend to a few items due to time restraints. I’m an engineer and fortunately/unfortunately have the skills, but really zero time. Recently the clear winner (I think) is LexConnection | Lexus & Toyota Sales & Service in Portland, Maine - https://www.lexconnection.com/
In Portland. I think we’re going to bring our 03 down for a little love. They have loaners too.

 

[BigMaineWomen]

I feel for you! I’m down in Alna and have been looking for a capable Indi wrench to tend to a few items due to time restraints. I’m an engineer and fortunately/unfortunately have the skills, but really zero time. Recently the clear winner (I think) is LexConnection | Lexus & Toyota Sales & Service in Portland, Maine - https://www.lexconnection.com/
In Portland. I think we’re going to bring our 03 down for a little love. They have loaners too.

Yep that's pretty much me to a T. I tried the repair last night and was not able to get enough force on those bolts to break them free. I think I'm going to cut a hole in the floor and weld it back up after. Probably will do it in the middle of the night after the family goes to bed. Have no other time and at this point I'm over it.

Thanks for the suggestion. They are only an hour away from me so not too bad really.

 

[Badlarry]

Yep that's pretty much me to a T. I tried the repair last night and was not able to get enough force on those bolts to break them free. I think I'm going to cut a hole in the floor and weld it back up after. Probably will do it in the middle of the night after the family goes to bed. Have no other time and at this point I'm over it.

Thanks for the suggestion. They are only an hour away from me so not too bad really.

I head ya. When I talked to the service writer about a week ago they were about 1-1/2 weeks out, not too bad. I’ll let you know my feelings after some repairs.

 

[uHu]

Yep that's pretty much me to a T. I tried the repair last night and was not able to get enough force on those bolts to break them free. I think I'm going to cut a hole in the floor and weld it back up after. ...

Cutting the floor is a good solution. Cut with a hole saw with a diameter for which you have a rubber bung/grommet. There are several holes in the body which are sealed that way.
Other tips include removing other parts to gain better access, like the crossmember for the spare wheel (4 bolts ?), and undoing the body mounts in order to lift it an inch from the frame.
I heard of someone who didn't buy a new ahc pipe for this problem, but got a hydraulics workshop to make a hose by reusing the shock-top part.

 

[MJTEX]

Okay, I want to offer an option that worked for me but I had the plans of doing away with the AHC, which is a great system by Toyota but after 12-15 years of use it could be costly. Most local shops, unless its a Toyota guy/gal never had experience with them. Second, the dealership techs today would need to have history with that system from 12-15 years ago, so it may need a seasoned tech. With that in mind, if you can find the right person, it can be repaired or replaced but know that only factory or used parts fit this (not much of an aftermarket). For your question below, I have included a 22 MM flex head (photo below), you can buy one on Amazon for about $25 bucks and give it to your mechanic to use if a shock needs to be replaced (cut the old shock housing and use vice grips to hold the shaft).

On the other hand, if you want to keep the rig (they are great for longevity), consider an AHC delete from an off road shop or you can order and take the parts to the shop. Likely need 4 shocks, two rear coils springs and 2 torsion bars (remember the T Bars and springs on an LX are thinner than a LandCruiser so it might be best to replace those on your LX to ensure a smooth ride. If you are interested in raising it, there are many kits but still limitations. However, if you want a general factory height and smooth ride (nothing beats the AHC technology), you could go with a Dobinson kit that doesnt raise the rig, heck call them and chat, they may have some good options for the parts kit and know of local installers in your areas (SLEE has a good kit as well). Again, it is personal preference, your long term plan and the wallet that drives the decisions. Hope you find the good spot that fits your needs.

 

[Badlarry]

Okay, I want to offer an option that worked for me but I had the plans of doing away with the AHC, which is a great system by Toyota but after 12-15 years of use it could be costly. Most local shops, unless its a Toyota guy/gal never had experience with them. Second, the dealership techs today would need to have history with that system from 12-15 years ago, so it may need a seasoned tech. With that in mind, if you can find the right person, it can be repaired or replaced but know that only factory or used parts fit this (not much of an aftermarket). For your question below, I have included a 22 MM flex head (photo below), you can buy one on Amazon for about $25 bucks and give it to your mechanic to use if a shock needs to be replaced (cut the old shock housing and use vice grips to hold the shaft).

On the other hand, if you want to keep the rig (they are great for longevity), consider an AHC delete from an off road shop or you can order and take the parts to the shop. Likely need 4 shocks, two rear coils springs and 2 torsion bars (remember the T Bars and springs on an LX are thinner than a LandCruiser so it might be best to replace those on your LX to ensure a smooth ride. If you are interested in raising it, there are many kits but still limitations. However, if you want a general factory height and smooth ride (nothing beats the AHC technology), you could go with a Dobinson kit that doesnt raise the rig, heck call them and chat, they may have some good options for the parts kit and know of local installers in your areas (SLEE has a good kit as well). Again, it is personal preference, your long term plan and the wallet that drives the decisions. Hope you find the good spot that fits your needs.

View attachment 3021088

Great advise, and spoken like a seasoned vet. This prompts a question or two from me if the OP wouldnt mind. Feel free to PM if you prefer. If one decided on the 1.5-2” lift/AHC delete for an LX thats a soccer mom rig, nothing beyond. What kit-kits would you suggest? Thanks.

 

[MJTEX]

Dobinson makes a small, easier lift that is only a 1.5" lift. Best to call them, walk through the scenario and they can guide you. Heck, you could try the factory torsion bars and factory springs, if they are not too tired run with them but I read alot about LX T bars and that they are thinner for a smoother ride so they should not be cranked to max. Call the Dobinson guys, they are in FL and seem to give sound options without trying to oversell. When I deleted, I just unscrewed the fluid lines to the shocks, cut then crimped them (did the same to my 05 V8 4Runner with xreas back when I deleted it....left the equipment in place until I got bored and removed it all....

 

[Army of Juan]

My AHC on my 06' gave up the LRear line/shock ghost @151k-had since 108k I didnt service it eva! and i went a lil too hard on it recently. Hands down; best system ever. Til now or if u have gear n bumpers n tow on crazy terrain. Every component i$ special order-shock to ahc lines; $250-350 EACH part. Globes(x4) about $800-$1k Double anything conventional. u should replace both sides together when servicing an axle. The fluid is $70-100 for a big can. Most dealers WILL NOT SELL you it. and you'll need 2 cans!! Literally $1500-$2k a corner just parts.. I really really really want to replace my rears n lines too but I BET the front will go shortly after i replace the rear ahc gear.. So. If money is no object n you don't intend to add lots of armor- replace- lines/shocks/globes/fluid.. Otherwise..Start by having vehicle in low and act like you're doing a ahc flush and remove as much fluid as u can. Don't cut into your ride! Dealing with the interior is a pain too. But if. Interior is gone already. Cutting above will make it easy.. But i say Suck it up n swivel rachet it or beat up upper inner fenderwell(rears) a tiny bit for clearance for breaker bar or long wrenches If you some how have a rust free undercarriage.. orrr Relieve the ahc system pressure completely at the bleed screws. Fluid will blast u if u don't During next phases. Have a fire extinguisher just in case. cut through the shock rod with a Good sawzall like most videos show instead of dealing with the frozen top bolts. Almost all rear 100series from rustbelt or cold region undercarriages are rusted together. Top bolt is 22mm. Remove spare tire and the carrier bar while you're at it for clearance. I cut muffler/resonator piping off(also rusted out) it will be in your way on RR but u can manage. Helps to have a buddy. 4 stands and a good jack. Good luck

 

[FxFormat]

If it’s a northern rusty truck, the two 12mm bolts holding the line to the shock tower will probably be difficult to remove and will likely snap off. The 22mm nut holding the strut in, you won’t be able to spin that off with a wrench. I’ve replaced my fair shares of this at my shop and we either had to cut the strut out or make a hole inside the rear and use and impact to zap it out from above. I love my AHC but once the lines start to go, I will replace with static suspension as well. The rear right line likes to rust out too, the rear AC line condenses in that area and drip onto it rusting it out.

 

[BigMaineWomen]

So I made an appointment with Lexconnection as suggested above, for Wednesday. I have two coats of jb weld over the current leak and it's holding fine so the vehicle is drivable. I plan on doing all 4 corners of for the flex/hard line and the hard lines. Also the brake lines that go across the engine bay from the master cylinder then curlycue down. I know it's going to be big money but fingers crossed I don't have any issues with the globes for years.

 

[Badlarry]

So I made an appointment with Lexconnection as suggested above, for Wednesday. I have two coats of jb weld over the current leak and it's holding fine so the vehicle is drivable. I plan on doing all 4 corners of for the flex/hard line and the hard lines. Also the brake lines that go across the engine bay from the master cylinder then curlycue down. I know it's going to be big money but fingers crossed I don't have any issues with the globes for years.

Excellent. We have an appointment for next Monday. Thankfully ours is a Fla truck.

 

[NickSonoma]

Hey All,

2004 LX470. I need to replace my rear passenger hydraulic line that goes from the top of the shock. It is leaking from a pinhole up near the accumulator. After bringing it to a nearby mechanic who absolutely could not wrap his head around the repair and wanted to cut in to the body above the shock, and then the "best" mechanic around who flat out refused to touch it... i'm feeling out of options. I think i am plenty capable to do the repair myself... yesterday I did the two post cat O2 sensors and changed out a leaking exhaust flange in an hour. I have looked at a LOT of threads that relate to the repair and just want to get any additional advice on doing it. I have read that a flex head ratchet wrench is the best option on the rear so I will be picking a set of those up. Does anyone know what size the head is on the two bolts for the line at the top of the shock? I have the parts already and a couple spare felt backup rings in case i accidentally mash them up. Tips, tricks, tools, advice, anything to help me get this done would be great.

Thank you

You may be asking the wrong question? Offer to pay a mechanic to do a particular task. Maybe the talk is spending 2 hours reading and an hour working. Do not ask him if you can pay him to make an 18 year old part work.

Get creative. You may need to talk to a mechanic at a local trucking company who works on hydraulic systems, a mechanic at a low rider shop, or call a farm and ask who can make a half North Korean and half Vichy French tractor running.

Make it clear that you won’t be mad if a 240k mile old line dissolves in their hand. Let them know that you understand that this is exploratory in nature, that you understand that you may be paying them to make it worse. That you are willing to pay for them to look at it. Let them know that you don’t mind if they zoom into a snake handling church service in the middle of working on it.

 

[suprarx7nut]

So I made an appointment with Lexconnection as suggested above, for Wednesday. I have two coats of jb weld over the current leak and it's holding fine so the vehicle is drivable. I plan on doing all 4 corners of for the flex/hard line and the hard lines. Also the brake lines that go across the engine bay from the master cylinder then curlycue down. I know it's going to be big money but fingers crossed I don't have any issues with the globes for years.

IMO, if you want to own a rusty vehicle, these are just normal problems. Brake lines, fuel lines, AHC lines, etc... I'd fix em all and keep all the niceties you can. Glad you're giving it a go.

Aside from the lines, the AHC system isn't more susceptible to rust than most the rest of the car. Perhaps the height sensor linkages are a weak point with extreme rust, but again it's just a couple extra components out of a few dozen others. Not a huge difference, IMO. Globes should be fine. Shocks are likely fine. Pump is fine. Motor is (usually) fine. Good luck!