What did you work on tonight? (4 Viewers)

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I finally got my spare rear-mounted. With the hitch stiffener it's solid and I've put my weight on the end of it. It also clears the hatch and my camper drawers. Can't wait to get the damn trash out of our rig and have somewhere else to carry the spare oil on trips.

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Replaced the starter today. Took about 30 minutes or so to pull the intake manifold. Reaching over to lift the intake off I must have been in a bad position because when I lifted the manifold my back decided to spasm. Made putting it back together take a while. Tried to have my wife help, but any more of my grumpiness and lack of patience would have caused her to stab me with the nearest sharp object so i decided to do it myself.

It really isn't a bad job. It was a lot easier than when I replaced the starter on my 4runner with a broken hand and way easier than the forums make it out to be. It's kind of nice not having to lay under the truck to change it.
 
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Replaced the starter today. Took about 30 minutes or so to pull the intake manifold. Reaching over to lift the intake off I must have been in a bad position because when I lifted the manifold my back decided to spasm. Made putting it back together take a while. Tried to have my wife help, but any more of my grumpiness and lack of patience would have caused her to stab me with the nearest sharp object so i decided to do it myself.

It really isn't a bad job. It was a lot easier than when I replaced the starter on my 4runner with a broken hand and way easier than the forums make it out to be. It's kind of nice not having to lay under the truck to change it.
Dang hope you are ok now!! Call me next time, I have decades of training in taking abuse
 
I built my track car suspension. The old struts had 150k. New struts are KYB OE. Springs are TRD performance and so is the rear sway bar. Front tower bar is Tanabe from Japan. The next part of the project is working on the engine. It has a ways to go before I can race it.

But for now, the V8 4runner needs some garage TLC out of this god awful sun.

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2nd pic is droop, not a suspension lift.
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I know torsion beam rear suspensions are common for economy cars and minivans. I've been curious how useful they are for sporty cars.
 
I know torsion beam rear suspensions are common for economy cars and minivans. I've been curious how useful they are for sporty cars.
I don't see a torsion beam suspension, only coil springs, strut tower brace and a sway bar 🤔
 
I don't see a torsion beam suspension, only coil springs, strut tower brace and a sway bar 🤔

I believe the sway bar is sitting in the groove of the torsion beam.

Last night I got the timing chain tensioner installed with fresh 5W-20 and it completely fixed my engine noise.

I also stopped the rattle on my 4runner exhaust. Thought it was the driver side catalytic converter heat shield but it turned out one of the pipe hangers was worn out and causing excess vibration to travel up the length of it. Moving on to overdue drive train maintenance.
 
I don't see a torsion beam suspension, only coil springs, strut tower brace and a sway bar 🤔
The first photo is the rear suspension of this car. It's a twist-beam (a.k.a torsion-beam) rear suspension. From left to right: Black shock, red coil spring, spring perch leading up to the beam section. And you can vaguely make out the bottom of the trailing arm and pivot bushing to the right of the beam in the space that is farthest back. Then there is an aftermarket torsion bar added (red) and it is nested up inside the depression on the bottom/back of the beam.
 
I've had the driveshaft thump/clunk for a long time. The inside of the slip yoke had grease packed in with the consistency of wet clay. I'm cleaning it out and using Motorcraft PTFE grease. It is my first time ever working on a driveshaft and I'm glad I bought the crow's foot adapters a while back.

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I've had the driveshaft thump/clunk for a long time. The inside of the slip yoke had grease packed in with the consistency of wet clay. I'm cleaning it out and using Motorcraft PTFE grease. It is my first time ever working on a driveshaft and I'm glad I bought the crow's foot adapters a while back.

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That reminds me that I need to grease mine.
 
That reminds me that I need to grease mine.

I highly recommend it. I just finished the front drive shaft last night (full time 4wd) and the difference is incredible. Acceleration is better but more importantly the braking is now smooth instead of 'chunky'. I should have done this a long time ago.

I recommend using the Ford PTFE but I think any PTFE will do the trick. Make sure you brush it all over the splines. I may or may not hit the Zirk fitting with a grease gun for maintenance. I might just do this job every so often. No idea how long it will last but I've read up to 2 years with no problems in a Tacoma.
 
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I highly recommend it. I just finished the front drive shaft last night (full time 4wd) and the difference is incredible. Acceleration is better but more importantly the braking is now smooth instead of 'chunky'. I should have done this a long time ago.

I recommend using the Ford PTFE but I think any PTFE will do the trick. Make sure you brush it all over the splines. I may or may not hit the Zirk fitting with a grease gun for maintenance. I might just do this job every so often. No idea how long it will last but I've read up to 2 years with no problems in a Tacoma.
I did it on my 100-series when I initially bought it, taking apart the entire slip yokes, cleaning and re-greasing. Then I typically do it every 1-2 years when I'm changing oil and Trans fluid (I only drive it 3-5K miles a year)
 
On the rear DS, it helps to remove the grease fitting and drive around for a bit to let any extra grease ooze out of the splines. Hitting some speed bumps at speed will help. This assures no hydro locking issue occurs if by chance extra grease was trying to find its way out of the splines. The front DS doesn't move up/down so not a huge deal if you don't do this.
 
Good info Aaron, thanks amigo!!!
 

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