Well I am spending the day replacing all but one hard line and the soft lines with braided lines. Then the bleed process begins
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (7 Viewers)
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Just this morning. Pulling up to the inspection bay to get a new sticker. Brakes went soft, puddle under the truck, but my e-brake is good at least. Pretty much total brake failure. Glad I wasn’t on the highway.
The failure was a coiled line under the reservoir. Just over 210k miles on the 2003 LC.
The failure was a coiled line under the reservoir. Just over 210k miles on the 2003 LC.
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Just rebuilt my motor and have 100 miles on the rebuilt unit! All is working smoothly!
If you are still looking for a volunteer I have a 99 LC100 with about 240k on it now. I manage an automotive repair shop and can install it myself and give you feedback on the installation process and operation of the unit. My wife drives it a lot more than I do hauling our kids here and there so this is something I’d like to get ahead of.
I did the same with my ‘04. I ordered a rebuilt one for $300 from eBay that was recommended by a friend, truck has been working fine for around 2 months now
Brake booster failure on my 100 series (2006) with 165K miles. No warning. Booster pump failure. $2300 to fix. First one my mechanic had ever seen.
It may have been the 'first' your mechanic has personally seen....but it is NOT an uncommon failure. In fact, I'd submit it WILL happen to every vehicle at some point. The only question is with regards to which item(s) fail. Often it is the pump motor, but can also involve the accumulator or the ABS module (seals leaking). The Master Cylinder can give problems also.
All of these things are 'wear parts' and it is to be expected that they have a certain 'life'. In the same way you 'expect' to have to replace your Brake Pads from time to time, so too....the Booster (or associated parts) will eventually need replacement.
Very true! I replaced a master (single rear line no pressure sw) in a 98 LC w/260K, due to ABS seal leak yesterday. Only second faulty ABS I've seen. First was internal short in ABS.
BTW: The older master has been had to get, but 45 of them. Are on the way to USA now.
Brake failure on 2006 LC100 with 152k.
Got the dreaded alarm with the associated dash lights. Was able to get home safely with very low congestion on interstate, driving very carefully with the little brake pedal I had left, ebrake, and downshifting (gotta appreciated the gated shifter).
Motor is dead. No pump noise at all. Fluid level is 1/2" above max, assuming because it's evacuated the accumulator (no pressure). Can hear the ABS relay clicking when IG ON. Connector wire is corroded.
Now trying to decide if I should just replace the motor and rebuild the MC or go full nelson and buy the whole unit @ $1300. It's not a DD so not rushed for a decision, but it does put an upcoming trip on hold.
Got the dreaded alarm with the associated dash lights. Was able to get home safely with very low congestion on interstate, driving very carefully with the little brake pedal I had left, ebrake, and downshifting (gotta appreciated the gated shifter).
Motor is dead. No pump noise at all. Fluid level is 1/2" above max, assuming because it's evacuated the accumulator (no pressure). Can hear the ABS relay clicking when IG ON. Connector wire is corroded.
Now trying to decide if I should just replace the motor and rebuild the MC or go full nelson and buy the whole unit @ $1300. It's not a DD so not rushed for a decision, but it does put an upcoming trip on hold.
"Fluid level is 1/2" above max" "wire is corroded" = worn out commutator 8 out of 10 times!
Reading what is embossed on the brake fluid reservoir before topping, is important. Overfilling result in early brake booster motor failure.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
forum.ih8mud.com
"Fluid level is 1/2" above max" "wire is corroded" = worn out commutator 8 out of 10 times!
Reading what is embossed on the brake fluid reservoir before topping, is important. Overfilling result in early brake booster motor failure.
View attachment 3022526
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
Correct. When the brake booster was functional (I omitted that alarm did turn off once after the first alarm, after tapping the motor) the level went back precisely to the Max line. Luckily, I am smack dab in the motor repair industry (www.eis-inc.com) and know a local customer in Atlanta that can fix this motor. But back to my last question...commutator repair and MC rebuild or whole kit and caboodle...? Decisions.
That for you to decide. The clues you need to make decision are in the thread I link-in above. If you guess wrong, and only R&R booster motor. Your long term cost of parts and labor, will be higher.
I'd also consider Toyota reduce price(s) on brake master(s) (caboodle) this year, which is typically unheard of on any part. We typically see Toyota increase most all parts prices, about 4 times a year. During last 2 years they've been very aggressively doing so monthly in some cases.
I'm just more aggravated that I didn't buy one when they were having a 25% off sale across the system
I'm just more aggravated that I didn't buy one when they were having a 25% off sale across the system
IF you plan on keeping the vehicle long term then the entire unit (given current prices) is the easiest and best thing to do. The part has actually come down significantly over the last couple of years and is readily available for your year model.
The next best move would be to replace the motor AND accumulator (comes as a set with new wiring), rebuild your Master Cylinder ($75.00 kit ....easy to do) and replace the grommets underneath your reservoir Qty. (3).
Replacing the motor only would be my third choice and only then if finances dictated no other route or you don't plan to keep the vehicle.
Infrequent use should NOT be a reason to take any shortcuts or try to save money, because having Brakes is pretty damn important and a safety issue that involves not only you but other drivers as well.
Are the LC and LX470x 1999 the exact brake system so parts from one would fit the other, sorry if this has been posted before, I searched and could not get a clear answer
Yes Sir. 'LIKE' year models share the same parts and design (even if you see different part numbers for each). Of course from year model to year model there may be some differences. But the brake system for a 99 LC and LX are the same.
Thanks for clearing that up. Replacing the ABS master cylinder with a unit from LC the same year.
Berkut10r
SILVER Star
This thread put a fear of God into me and had me swap out my unit before any symptoms surfaced.
It was good preventative maintenance. At some point every unit is going to fail. How and when it fails....and where you are at the time determines the severity of that experience. For me.....it failed while parked and I had some prior warning. About as good as it gets. However others have had it fail with no apparent warning while driving. And in some cases this occurred at highway speeds in heavy traffic.
Our LX is my Wife's Daily Driver and it would not be good for her to suddenly have no brakes. In actuality....you shouldn't completely lose your brakes, but the loss of 'boosted' brakes is nearly the same thing since most folks can not press the pedal hard enough (unboosted) to bring the vehicle to a stop in a reasonable distance.
IF there is a Silver Lining to this....the entire ABS unit/Booster has recently dropped significantly in price. And once replaced....should give good service for many years to come. So IMO.....you did the right thing.
It was good preventative maintenance. At some point every unit is going to fail. How and when it fails....and where you are at the time determines the severity of that experience. For me.....it failed while parked and I had some prior warning. About as good as it gets. However others have had it fail with no apparent warning while driving. And in some cases this occurred at highway speeds in heavy traffic.
Our LX is my Wife's Daily Driver and it would not be good for her to suddenly have no brakes. In actuality....you shouldn't completely lose your brakes, but the loss of 'boosted' brakes is nearly the same thing since most folks can not press the pedal hard enough (unboosted) to bring the vehicle to a stop in a reasonable distance.
IF there is a Silver Lining to this....the entire ABS unit/Booster has recently dropped significantly in price. And once replaced....should give good service for many years to come. So IMO.....you did the right thing.
Agreed. The price is worth mitigating the risk of loved ones getting hurt. You might understand the procedure to take when it fails on the highway at 70mph, but does your wife/kid/friend/etc who could possibly be driving?
