Buying a 460 - Need some help with assumptions (1 Viewer)

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When I started looking I had a budget and just looked for the lowest mileage with best maintenance history I could find that fit that budget. I didnt care about color or year, other than I really didnt want black.
 
When I started looking I had a budget and just looked for the lowest mileage with best maintenance history I could find that fit that budget. I didnt care about color or year, other than I really didnt want black.
That was me, then I ended up with black anyway. lol Sometimes condition and service history trump color.
 
If it doesn't have a receiver, can I just add one like this? Everything else there correct?

Amazon product ASIN B003ZS32CW
The GX frame has pre drilled/threaded holes for a hitch receiver so installing the OEM receiver or a smaller one like what you linked is pretty easy. The OEM receiver bolts into both frame rails and the rear crossmember. Smaller hitches like the Curt just bolt to the rear cross member.

I'm not sure about the 10-13 models, but the 14+ have the wiring harness for the hitch receiver in place under the rear bumper/body even if no hitch was installed from the factory.
 
The GX frame has pre drilled/threaded holes for a hitch receiver so installing the OEM receiver or a smaller one like what you linked is pretty easy. The OEM receiver bolts into both frame rails and the rear crossmember. Smaller hitches like the Curt just bolt to the rear cross member.

I'm not sure about the 10-13 models, but the 14+ have the wiring harness for the hitch receiver in place under the rear bumper/body even if no hitch was installed from the factory.

How can you tell if a hitch is a factory item? If I took a picture could you verify?
 
How can you tell if a hitch is a factory item? If I took a picture could you verify?
The Lexus receiver is square tubing and has some distinctive "wings" that act kind of like skid plate protection for the spare tire tub. I couldn't confirm officially but if you have a picture I can at least confirm it looks the same as my OEM receiver.

I assume is there is some Lexus branding somewhere on the labelling or receiver itself but I would need to crawl around under my car and check.
 
Pretty sure the stock hitch is stamped with the Toyota part number. It should also say that it is rated for 6500lbs. Aftermarket hitches that look oem say they are rated for 5k lbs. (at least the curt brand oem style I saw).
 
The Lexus receiver is square tubing and has some distinctive "wings" that act kind of like skid plate protection for the spare tire tub. I couldn't confirm officially but if you have a picture I can at least confirm it looks the same as my OEM receiver.

I assume is there is some Lexus branding somewhere on the labelling or receiver itself but I would need to crawl around under my car and check.
How's this?

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That really helps re: approach. I like the low profile front protection of the 2014+ a lot more (with winch) but I doubt I'll go that way. And I'm happy with 10-13.

All years 10-13 fine? Or some to avoid.

For instance, one of the options I have close by is a 2010 with 116k.
My 2010 is at 180k. Only major replacement item has been the radiator. As others are saying here, approach angle is better and these early ones seem to have the options you want (rear ac) and lack some options you might not want (bag suspension). Non nav. is rare as hens teeth. No valley plate issue at this point.
 
...Aside, would TCO for a 2002LX be worse or better? I'm leaning 80% towards a GX.
Coming from 2 100 series, get the GX, regardless of the mathematics of TCO. It's just an all around newer, more refined platform, and really not THAT much smaller. Rear cargo total volume is the only noticeable compromise between the two, IMHO. I used to stuff the 100 for family-of-four cross country trips, Boy Scout trips, kid's college moves, etc. The GX is adequate, but not huge. Gas mileage better on GX. Ventilated seats FTW...

For your intended usage, the mod list is short. Do get a pedal commander, though. You'll thank it EVERY time you drive, on or off road. To cover your limited off road needs, good AT or RT tires, and the addition of Crawl Control and MTS ought to do it. Lift not even needed.
 
My 2010 is at 180k. Only major replacement item has been the radiator. As others are saying here, approach angle is better and these early ones seem to have the options you want (rear ac) and lack some options you might not want (bag suspension). Non nav. is rare as hens teeth. No valley plate issue at this point.
I'm picking (at least to check out) between a nav and non-nav one. The only benefit to the NAV version for me is a larger screen for backup camera.

What do you think about higher mileage used? The main ones I'm looking at are 119k, 144k. But there are some 167k and 206k around here.
 
Coming from 2 100 series, get the GX, regardless of the mathematics of TCO. It's just an all around newer, more refined platform, and really not THAT much smaller. Rear cargo total volume is the only noticeable compromise between the two, IMHO. I used to stuff the 100 for family-of-four cross country trips, Boy Scout trips, kid's college moves, etc. The GX is adequate, but not huge. Gas mileage better on GX. Ventilated seats FTW...

For your intended usage, the mod list is short. Do get a pedal commander, though. You'll thank it EVERY time you drive, on or off road. To cover your limited off road needs, good AT or RT tires, and the addition of Crawl Control and MTS ought to do it. Lift not even needed.
Thanks for the feedback, it's really helpful when given responses like this vs. needing all the gear the (albeit awesome) rock crawling modded gxs here have.

Rear cargo is a big one for me. But it really only matter if the last row of seats are being used. When they're not being used the the space in both the 100 and 150 are adequate.
 
@Bang Bang here you go!

Strange, it says 5k limit.

5172AC0D-D457-4029-ABA6-7EDB71F5AD49.jpeg
 
Notice it says 6500 on right side with weight distributing hitch
Hah, was looking at the left side being that is more legible. Is it safe to assume this is a factory class IV hitch?
 
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