Locked NOt seized 2F (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SkinnyD
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- Thread starter
- #42
Good morning to all. I am grateful for any and all tips, tricks and experience shared on this post. Thank you! My borescope should arrive today and I will scope cylinders and bottom end through oil pan drain plug. Ive also ordered a new clutch master cylinder that should arrive some time next week. In hindsight, I should have repaired the hydraulics first and foremost, knowing it was inop. My eagerness to witness the 4 cycles of the engine got the better of me. Based on what the borescope reveals, I may drain the cocktail of MM oil and seafoam and replace with ATF and acetone. My hope is something between the gear box and crankshaft is locked and proper clutch engagement will narrow my search. If not, I will seperate the two and that will definitley isolate my mechanical woes.
Through it all, I enjoy every minute of this process. As much as I'd like to do a complete concours restoration, this is obviously not the candidate. The frame is exceptional and was the selling point for me. WAY back in the day I did a respectable job on a 1966 Porshce 912. My skills are solid shade tree but no ASE Master Mechanic. Facilities also pose unique challenges as well. At the end of the day, my goal is to have a fun and dependable go get ice cream, grocery running, muddy trail slinging and general giggle factor rig. I think this can happen without too much financial strife. Once again, thanks to all and I will keep this thread updated. CHEERS!
*Pic is the day I pulled it out of the pine trees in Metro Atlanta.
Through it all, I enjoy every minute of this process. As much as I'd like to do a complete concours restoration, this is obviously not the candidate. The frame is exceptional and was the selling point for me. WAY back in the day I did a respectable job on a 1966 Porshce 912. My skills are solid shade tree but no ASE Master Mechanic. Facilities also pose unique challenges as well. At the end of the day, my goal is to have a fun and dependable go get ice cream, grocery running, muddy trail slinging and general giggle factor rig. I think this can happen without too much financial strife. Once again, thanks to all and I will keep this thread updated. CHEERS!
*Pic is the day I pulled it out of the pine trees in Metro Atlanta.
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That will clean up nice. Looks to have factory yellow paint under the green. Look inside the glove box and see what the factory colors was. A shackle reversal has already been performed on the front.
- Thread starter
- #44
UMMM... No. Definitely not!!! I'm hanging on a cliff here!!! LOL! I will keep all updated. Thanks 1MAC.
- Thread starter
- #45
UMMM... No. Definitely not!!! I'm hanging on a cliff here!!! LOL! I will keep all updated. Thanks 1MAC.
I think we need to open this up to online gambling as to the cause.
What's the over/under on 3/8 extension in one of the holes? I'll put $10 on that.
- Thread starter
- #48
Good morning All,
I received my borescope yesterday and inspected the cylinder bores anrd piston tops. Nothing appears out of place, allthough I saw something on #4 that momentarily shook me up. Turns out it was an open valve. It took a moment to orient what it was. Visually, everything looks in place. True to being what I have been told about the fresh rebuild, I saw fresh cross hatch marks on the cylinder walls. Promising.
1. I believe the starter is not frozen to the flywheel as I can here the bendix disengage between the start run- key positions.
2. I'm not ruling out the possibillity that my gearbox is not somehow binding rotation due to the fact that my clutch hydraulics are inop. I have ordered an OEM master and slave. (arrive next week), I may go buy aftermarket junk to test that theory in the interim.
3. Last resort but sure fire way of finding the bind is to seperate the two and see which is bound.
Short of that, I think this is a logical path. If any of you gentlemen have any other pearls of wisom, which I am grateful for, I'm all ears.
Enjoy the holiday weekend. Service and Sacrifice is what we celebrate and give many thanks year round!!!
I received my borescope yesterday and inspected the cylinder bores anrd piston tops. Nothing appears out of place, allthough I saw something on #4 that momentarily shook me up. Turns out it was an open valve. It took a moment to orient what it was. Visually, everything looks in place. True to being what I have been told about the fresh rebuild, I saw fresh cross hatch marks on the cylinder walls. Promising.
1. I believe the starter is not frozen to the flywheel as I can here the bendix disengage between the start run- key positions.
2. I'm not ruling out the possibillity that my gearbox is not somehow binding rotation due to the fact that my clutch hydraulics are inop. I have ordered an OEM master and slave. (arrive next week), I may go buy aftermarket junk to test that theory in the interim.
3. Last resort but sure fire way of finding the bind is to seperate the two and see which is bound.
Short of that, I think this is a logical path. If any of you gentlemen have any other pearls of wisom, which I am grateful for, I'm all ears.
Enjoy the holiday weekend. Service and Sacrifice is what we celebrate and give many thanks year round!!!
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
whitey45
SILVER Star
You can put it in 4th gear and rock the truck back and forth( helps to have a few people) see if something will break loose.
When you can push the clutch in, double check that the disk is free. I'm still putting my money on a stuck transmission. We shall all wait till the clutch pedal can be pushed
mrboatman
GOLD Star
You can use a ratchet strap on the clutch fork and frame to pull the clutch fork and disengage the clutch to check if its free
- Thread starter
- #53
Good Sunday morning all! Well, well, well. The parts Gods shined light on me earlier than expected. OEM master and slave clutch parts arrived way ahaed of schedule. I made quick work of installing and getting operable. Side Note... I am learning that FJ maintenance is indeed compared to working on a farm tractor! I digress. As far as my mechanical mind will stretch, I am fairly certain that my engine is indeed the source of my woes.
CONDITION=
Rear drive shaft removed, front hubs unlocked. In gear, clutch engaged, Main shaft spins free. Front and rear outputs spin. Clutrch disengaged, in gear front and rear outputs spin, with t-case in all 3 modes. These conditions being present, I'm calling the drive train fit for duty.
On to the engine. Still wont budge via front of the crankshaft nor the teeth on the flywheel. Not a smidge. She's just locked. Before I put this machine back in it's stall I think I'll pull the starter to confirm that it's not interfering. Just for good measure and giggles. I'll store with a cocktail of ATF and Acetone and possibly Diesel and keep it topped off. Who knows? It may break free. On the horizon my plan is to dissasemble to find the bind. Head first, drop the pan and visually verify what is amiss. I'm hoping that as TORNADOALLEYCRUISER suggested, I can hone, re-ring and polish the crank journals and be off to the races.
Not the worst news but this rig is currently serving it's purpose. Enjoyment. Here in the hills we have a saying, "Its paid for and it aint eating much." I want to extend a sincere thanks to ALL that have helped with suggestions and pointers. THANKS! As usual, I will rely on this board's graciousness to guide me through the next part of this awesome adventure. And I suspect like most here, I'll contimue to monitor these forums more than I should, HA!
"Endeavor to persevere" is my mantra with this project. CHEERS!!!
CONDITION=
Rear drive shaft removed, front hubs unlocked. In gear, clutch engaged, Main shaft spins free. Front and rear outputs spin. Clutrch disengaged, in gear front and rear outputs spin, with t-case in all 3 modes. These conditions being present, I'm calling the drive train fit for duty.
On to the engine. Still wont budge via front of the crankshaft nor the teeth on the flywheel. Not a smidge. She's just locked. Before I put this machine back in it's stall I think I'll pull the starter to confirm that it's not interfering. Just for good measure and giggles. I'll store with a cocktail of ATF and Acetone and possibly Diesel and keep it topped off. Who knows? It may break free. On the horizon my plan is to dissasemble to find the bind. Head first, drop the pan and visually verify what is amiss. I'm hoping that as TORNADOALLEYCRUISER suggested, I can hone, re-ring and polish the crank journals and be off to the races.
Not the worst news but this rig is currently serving it's purpose. Enjoyment. Here in the hills we have a saying, "Its paid for and it aint eating much." I want to extend a sincere thanks to ALL that have helped with suggestions and pointers. THANKS! As usual, I will rely on this board's graciousness to guide me through the next part of this awesome adventure. And I suspect like most here, I'll contimue to monitor these forums more than I should, HA!
"Endeavor to persevere" is my mantra with this project. CHEERS!!!
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I had the same thing on a very early long parked up FJ40. Don't waste your time with the head. Pull the pan and look for rust/corrosion under the pistons. If you find it, you can pull the head and knock the pistons out upwards.
If not rusty, start pulling bearing caps one by one to see which one is seized/funky.
- Thread starter
- #55
Thanks locklaw. With my borescope, i have not seen the first bit of rust. Including what little I can see through the oil pan drain. Puzzling! But good advice that I'll heed. Currently, my spidey sense is leaning towards a spun bearing. Bottom up will be my direction. THANKS!
middlecalf
SILVER Star
“CONDITION=
Rear drive shaft removed, front hubs unlocked. In gear, clutch engaged, Main shaft spins free. Front and rear outputs spin. Clutrch disengaged, in gear front and rear outputs spin, with t-case in all 3 modes. These conditions being present, I'm calling the drive train fit for duty.”
I’ll keep reading your description above, but I’m struggling with the statement that ”front and rear outputs spin” with the clutch “engaged” and “disengaged.” Depending on what you mean by engaged and disengaged, with a seized motor one of those conditions would not let the “front and rear outputs spin.”
Rear drive shaft removed, front hubs unlocked. In gear, clutch engaged, Main shaft spins free. Front and rear outputs spin. Clutrch disengaged, in gear front and rear outputs spin, with t-case in all 3 modes. These conditions being present, I'm calling the drive train fit for duty.”
I’ll keep reading your description above, but I’m struggling with the statement that ”front and rear outputs spin” with the clutch “engaged” and “disengaged.” Depending on what you mean by engaged and disengaged, with a seized motor one of those conditions would not let the “front and rear outputs spin.”
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whitey45
SILVER Star
Check to make sure the distributor is seated all the way. Could have been loss of oil presure. I freed up a stuck f by priming the oil pump with a drill to get oil to the crank and rod journals. Sure enough it cranked over and ran fine for many years sfter!
I had a similar issue with my 71. Frozen from sitting for over a decade Here is what I had to do to free it.
1- soak each cylinder for several days with your favorite penetration oil
2 - Yank head off and remove any visible bore rust with 1000 grit wet/dry cloth
3- Drop oil pan
4- disconnect all connecting rods/caps.(make sure to mark them for reinstallation in same cylinder and orientation
5- find which cylinders are frozen
6 - trim a 4x4 post to fit nicely in the bore to the piston
7- hit the frozen piston(s) free
8 - remove each piston and inspect piston and bore for issues
9- do a light cylinder hone
10- reassemble
All the above you can do with the engine in place.
I can't remember which pistons were frozen but I do remember I had to use a sledgehammer to free up one of them.
I would recommend replacing rings and all bottom bearings since you have it all apart.
1- soak each cylinder for several days with your favorite penetration oil
2 - Yank head off and remove any visible bore rust with 1000 grit wet/dry cloth
3- Drop oil pan
4- disconnect all connecting rods/caps.(make sure to mark them for reinstallation in same cylinder and orientation
5- find which cylinders are frozen
6 - trim a 4x4 post to fit nicely in the bore to the piston
7- hit the frozen piston(s) free
8 - remove each piston and inspect piston and bore for issues
9- do a light cylinder hone
10- reassemble
All the above you can do with the engine in place.
I can't remember which pistons were frozen but I do remember I had to use a sledgehammer to free up one of them.
I would recommend replacing rings and all bottom bearings since you have it all apart.
- Thread starter
- #59
O.K. middlecalf, I'm starting to see your point. Slowly. LOL! My last entry was a bad narrative. I just went out to verify that CONDITION= clutch disengaged, meaning pedal is static with no foot pressure. The gear box spins freely BUT putting it in to any gear stops all rotation. You are correct Sir! In my excitement I kinda got away from my good sense of communication. Thanks for helping me clarify!!!“CONDITION=
Rear drive shaft removed, front hubs unlocked. In gear, clutch engaged, Main shaft spins free. Front and rear outputs spin. Clutrch disengaged, in gear front and rear outputs spin, with t-case in all 3 modes. These conditions being present, I'm calling the drive train fit for duty.”
I’ll keep reading your description above, but I’m struggling with the statement that ”front and rear outputs spin” with the clutch “engaged” and “disengaged.” Depending on what you mean by engaged and disengaged, with a seized motor one of those conditions would not let the “front and rear outputs spin.”
- Thread starter
- #60
