Loss of power, torque, dead spot, hesitation whatever you want to call it! (1 Viewer)

[g-man]

Consider ordering the bottom oring that seals the dizzy to the engine, your's is probably brick hard and will crumble on reassembly. Also get the large o ring seal that goes between the cap and the housing. Both are still available from Toyota.

 

[g-man]

 

[LandoNick]

Nick, where do you live? Maybe someone following this thread lives close enough to you to offer help. What I’m getting at is for you to do the stop pin “renewal” it definitely would be easier to do with the distributor removed. I think the biggest obstacle to attempting to install a replacement bushing would be getting the vacuum advance unit off the body of the distributor to facilitate removing the plate the pickup is attached to. All of this would be way easier with the distributor clamped in a vice. You could use help with removal and reinstalling the distributor.

I’m in Vancouver Wa.

 

[LandoNick]

dizzy work outline:

1. remove the spark plugs wires and vent hoses from the cap

2. remove the cap (3 screws on the edges will get it off)

3. orient the rotor so it's pointing at a specific spark plug or 10mm bolt on the side cover plate and take a pic of this. do this by bumping the ignition around til it's in the spot you need. take a picture, it's got to get back to this same spot.

4. disconnect the green coil signal plug at the side of the dizzy. Remove it from it's keeper first.

5. loosen and remove the keeper bolt where the bottom of the dizzy goes into the motor.

6. pull up on the dizzy. It will turn slightly as it comes out..this due to the gears on the dizzy shaft engaged with the gears on the cam shaft. Its ok just realize which way its turning. When you get it out make a mental note of which way the rotor turned and where it is pointing. This is the starting point when you put back in.

7. Clean the dizzy gear and shaft f it has carbon or sludge.

8. Carefully put the dizzy in a vice. I assume the body is cast aluminum. Don't crack it.

9. Remove the C clip on the advancer arm. A metal pick or very small screwdriver should work.

10. loosen and remove the retainer brace and screw holding the advancer port on the outside of the dizzy housing. (for me this was stuck and screwdriver didn't work. I gently tapped a socket over the head of the screw and broke it loose with a 1/4 drive ratchet)

11. Pull the advancer out. It needs to be out of the way to get to the stop pin. You may need to wiggle and work this out. Its just a rubber boot wedged into the dizzy housing.

12. Remove the rotor and black plastic cover from the signal generator. The plastic cover pries off with small screwdriver or you can remove one of the 2 small screws that also hold the signal generator in place.

13. Remove the 2 small screws and remove the signal generator. The magnet will come loose from the metal L shape ...no problem, screws back together.

14. Pull the small retaining screws and clips and pull the breaker plate out. Take it apart (remove 4 clips on the sides with exacto knife or small screwdriver) and clean, regrease....realize small bearings so be ready to catch them ...think white cloth under your breaker plate on a work bench.

15. at this point you should see the stop pin and the weights and springs. If your stop pin bushing is destroyed you will see bits of it in the bottom of the dizzy that you can remove.

reassembly is reverse order. For USA models don't disassemble the shaft. I used a metal feeler gauge to set the air gap. It does stick to the magnet a little but really not a problem.

Thanks G-man this is a great out line!

 

[g-man]

toyota part numbers for the o rings are:

o ring for housing...9009914090

dust o ring....substitution part is 1912761240 aka dust proof packing.

 

[LandoNick]

Thanks G-man this is a great out line!

Where are the bearing in step 14? Grease them?

 

[g-man]

Where are the bearing in step 14? Grease them?

They are in the breaker plate. You have to pull the 4 clips off and open it up. it's hollow ...2 plates with space between them and the bearings run around the inside lip in the groove.

Are you going to replace the springs with lighter set while you are in there? Another stop pin bushing is NOT going to make the engine run much better with the EGR disabled.

yes, clean out the old grease and any dirt, inspect the bearings and make sure they are still round. RE-grease with a high temp grease that won't go to a running liquid when things get hot. If you need more help @4Cruisers restores dizzys.

 

[4Cruisers]

Where are the bearing in step 14? Grease them?

There are 46 small ball bearings inside the breaker plate assembly. Disassemble the breaker plate if it doesn't rotate freely. Clean all the parts (I rinse the ball bearings in a small glass jar using carb/throttle body cleaner), apply grease in the groove around the lip of the center part of the breaker plate (that'll hold the ball bearings in place for reassembly), apply a little more grease to the inside surfaces of the bearing races, then reassemble and install the four black clips. I hook the bottom of the clips over the small groove in the bottom of the lower race, then gently pry upwards and inwards on the top of the clip with a small flat blade screwdriver and pull it into the small groove on the top of the breaker plate.

 

[LandoNick]

They are in the breaker plate. You have to pull the 4 clips off and open it up. it's hollow ...2 plates with space between them and the bearings run around the inside lip in the groove.

Are you going to replace the springs with lighter set while you are in there? Another stop pin bushing is NOT going to make the engine run much better with the EGR disabled.

yes, clean out the old grease and any dirt, inspect the bearings and make sure they are still round. RE-grease with a high temp grease that won't go to a running liquid when things get hot. If you need more help @4Cruisers restores dizzys.

I was going to see if the pin bushing was grenaded. I didn’t think of doing the springs. But I guess while I’m in there and a desmog is around the corner. Might be a good move!

 

[LandoNick]

They are in the breaker plate. You have to pull the 4 clips off and open it up. it's hollow ...2 plates with space between them and the bearings run around the inside lip in the groove.

Are you going to replace the springs with lighter set while you are in there? Another stop pin bushing is NOT going to make the engine run much better with the EGR disabled.

yes, clean out the old grease and any dirt, inspect the bearings and make sure they are still round. RE-grease with a high temp grease that won't go to a running liquid when things get hot. If you need more help @4Cruisers restores dizzys.

When I replace the springs. And get the stop pin bushing replaced I then set my timing at the 7 BTDC?

 

[g-man]

When I replace the springs. And get the stop pin bushing replaced I then set my timing at the 7 BTDC?

probably will still want to advance it a bit more. you may have to experiment with this. I think @roadstr6 mentioned advancing until the bb was out of the site window.

 

[roadstr6]

probably will still want to advance it a bit more. you may have to experiment with this. I think @roadstr6 mentioned advancing until the bb was out of the site window.

If you use the springs in the MSD kit that is referenced in my recurve post, you will need to set the timing with more initial advance than normal. Mine is set with the BB just below the sight window. I'd guess it is 15 degrees or so initial advance. It will run fine there. The MSD springs are actually a little stiffer than the originals.

 

[LandoNick]

probably will still want to advance it a bit more. you may have to experiment with this. I think @roadstr6 mentioned advancing until the bb was out of the site window.

Do you think the “recurve” is ok do to in half desmog land that I’m in right now? EGR installed not working, air rail still installed. Gold vacuum hardline interstate still installed and the gold thing the smog pump was hooked to?

 

[g-man]

The main difference between the air injection system and the EGR system is that the air injection system pushes air into the exhaust ports and or the exhaust pipe in front of the cat. It works with the OC system (cat) to convert NOx and CO into CO2 and H20. The EGR pushes exhaust into the INTAKE. Exhaust into the intake will lower burn temps at combustion. Removing the EGR gas will raise combustion temps ...leaner burn which affects the spark control system.

so the short answer is I don't think air injection into the exhaust will affect spark.

You're long range plans assuming the EGR will stay disabled, should be to get a smog pump delete/tensioner pulley and remove and plug the air rail and the air hoses going to the air cleaner. The reason for this is that it is mainly a source for failures. The air pump can seize and throw your fan belt leaving you in an overheat condition. The air rail will rust out and leak. My experience is the delete pulley is much smoother, quieter and less strain and power rob from the engine.

Jim C aka TLC Performance sells a delete kit with plugs for the injectors, bvsv, and air hoses. Also he sells a delete pulley. SOR has a delete pulley too.

 

[LandoNick]

The main difference between the air injection system and the EGR system is that the air injection system pushes air into the exhaust ports and or the exhaust pipe in front of the cat. It works with the OC system (cat) to convert NOx and CO into CO2 and H20. The EGR pushes exhaust into the INTAKE. Exhaust into the intake will lower burn temps at combustion. Removing the EGR gas will raise combustion temps ...leaner burn which affects the spark control system.

so the short answer is I don't think air injection into the exhaust will affect spark.

You're long range plans assuming the EGR will stay disabled, should be to get a smog pump delete/tensioner pulley and remove and plug the air rail and the air hoses going to the air cleaner. The reason for this is that it is mainly a source for failures. The air pump can seize and throw your fan belt leaving you in an overheat condition. The air rail will rust out and leak. My experience with is the delete pulley is much smoother, quieter and less strain and power rob from the engine.

Jim C aka TLC Performance sells a delete kit with plugs for the injectors, bvsv, and air hoses. Also he sells a delete pulley. SOR has a delete pulley too.

I have the smog delete from JimC installed. Air hoses capped. I will I have the plugs for the air rail and the BVSV plugs. I just bought a new purple BVSV. in the instructions I have that BVSV stays for the desmog?

 

[g-man]

Yes, the top or #1 bvsv stays. It delays vacuum advance on the primary advancer port until the engine temp is up. Also sends signal to the EGR system.

 

[LandoNick]

If you use the springs in the MSD kit that is referenced in my recurve post, you will need to set the timing with more initial advance than normal. Mine is set with the BB just below the sight window. I'd guess it is 15 degrees or so initial advance. It will run fine there. The MSD springs are actually a little stiffer than the originals.

How do you know if you are to rich? Back fire? Check plugs, worse then already fuel economy?

 

[roadstr6]

How do you know if you are to rich? Back fire? Check plugs, worse then already fuel economy?

The home brew recurved distributor and subsequent advanced timing adjustment will have little impact on fuel delivery. If you feel like your truck is running rich for whatever reason, adjust your carb via the “lean drop” method. You should do this after a timing tweak anyway.

 

[LandoNick]

The home brew recurved distributor and subsequent advanced timing adjustment will have little impact on fuel delivery. If you feel like your truck is running rich for whatever reason, adjust your carb via the “lean drop” method. You should do this after a timing tweak anyway.

I was under the assumption that timing will affect if the truck runs more rich or lean?

 

[LandoNick]

Can someone explain to me the connection to the vacuum hoses and the EGR not working or disabled?