"Making sh** look easy!" that ought to be the motto of every cruiser owner!
Builds Land Crusher Build Thread - V2 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Somebodyelse5
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- Thread starter
- #162
First drive around the block, went to visit my buddy and his land rovers:
First impressions are positive, these bp 51s are seriously good. I feel like i'm driving around in a boat. Will be fiddling with the compression and rebound settings but want to wait for the springs to settle. Sitting around 4" of lift and was shooting for 3"
First impressions are positive, these bp 51s are seriously good. I feel like i'm driving around in a boat. Will be fiddling with the compression and rebound settings but want to wait for the springs to settle. Sitting around 4" of lift and was shooting for 3"
I don't think you have enough ram mounts. You may need one more. 
Love the 97 white collectors edition's. My second favorite color combo after the 97 sage 40th.
Love the 97 white collectors edition's. My second favorite color combo after the 97 sage 40th.
- Thread starter
- #164
I don't think you have enough ram mounts. You may need one more.
I am adding more, don't you worry
- Thread starter
- #165
Brake update:
- I installed new stainless braided brake lines, new master cylinder, and new brake booster. Major improvement in brake feel.
I used the Motive power bleeder (P/N 0101 universal) and paired it with the ARES 18003 - 43mm master cylinder adapter. Thing worked great for bleeding solo. The fluid that came out was really bad.... replaced with Dot 3 for now.
- The Dobinson LSPV Adjustment bracket plain and simple does not work. It forces the LSPV rod into the upper control arm. So don't bother with that.
- For now, I ziptied the LSPV arm up to the frame so that it is sending the max pressure to the rear brakes. Noticed an improvement in braking here.
- When I installed my new OEM brake booster, I saw a huge improvement in pedal feel. Seems that even though my old booster passed the function tests, it just wasn't working right (really hard to push the brakes).
- I had to adjust the booster clevis (where it attaches to the brake pedal) so that the pedal felt right. I measured and matched the booster I took out, but it seems that the non OEM unit isn't the same here. An extra 1.5 full turns and the pedal is feeling great.
NOTE: You can adjust the clevis without having to remove the booster, disconnect the clevis from the pedal, turn the truck on so you can use the booster to help, depress the rod so the clevis clears the pedal and turn. Boom, good to go.
- I installed new stainless braided brake lines, new master cylinder, and new brake booster. Major improvement in brake feel.
I used the Motive power bleeder (P/N 0101 universal) and paired it with the ARES 18003 - 43mm master cylinder adapter. Thing worked great for bleeding solo. The fluid that came out was really bad.... replaced with Dot 3 for now.
- The Dobinson LSPV Adjustment bracket plain and simple does not work. It forces the LSPV rod into the upper control arm. So don't bother with that.
- For now, I ziptied the LSPV arm up to the frame so that it is sending the max pressure to the rear brakes. Noticed an improvement in braking here.
- When I installed my new OEM brake booster, I saw a huge improvement in pedal feel. Seems that even though my old booster passed the function tests, it just wasn't working right (really hard to push the brakes).
- I had to adjust the booster clevis (where it attaches to the brake pedal) so that the pedal felt right. I measured and matched the booster I took out, but it seems that the non OEM unit isn't the same here. An extra 1.5 full turns and the pedal is feeling great.
NOTE: You can adjust the clevis without having to remove the booster, disconnect the clevis from the pedal, turn the truck on so you can use the booster to help, depress the rod so the clevis clears the pedal and turn. Boom, good to go.
Good call, I have to add an extension on mine and was dreading pulling it apart. Huge timesaver...
- Thread starter
- #167
LUX lighting systems LED rock light installed today. These things are killer, no drilling or brackets required…. They are small and stick on with magnets, super bright. Will eventually tie them into the courtesy light but it’s too hot now.
I installed 8 total, and bought 4 10’ and 4 20’ (the inly difference is the wire).
Going to order a few more to use as under hood lighting
I installed 8 total, and bought 4 10’ and 4 20’ (the inly difference is the wire).
Going to order a few more to use as under hood lighting
- Thread starter
- #168
Added some aluminum extrusion to the top edges of the reef drawer
- Thread starter
- #169
My wit's end mirror mount and Gentex ADVGEN20A mirror came in. I ordered this one from crutchfield for about $200, you can find these cheaper, used on ebay or pull from pretty much any chevy in a junk yard... but It's hot and I am lazy, and the gen20A supposedly has an upgraded circuit board that is more reliable.
(@baktasht look another ram mount )
Oddly it doesn't come with instructions for installing the temperature sensor, so, here's a screen shot of the instructions I found online for anyone trying to add a temp sensor to the Gentex mirrors:
Hope to tackle this tomorrow but we will see what the evening has in store. My plan is to tap into the add-a-fuse circuit that is switched, powering the relay for my analog gauges. Will test the draw on the bench power supply but I expect it to be pretty low.
I need to test what fits best, but the hope is to mount my VO switch face plate on that ram mount so it is up and out of the way.
(@baktasht look another ram mount
)Oddly it doesn't come with instructions for installing the temperature sensor, so, here's a screen shot of the instructions I found online for anyone trying to add a temp sensor to the Gentex mirrors:
Hope to tackle this tomorrow but we will see what the evening has in store. My plan is to tap into the add-a-fuse circuit that is switched, powering the relay for my analog gauges. Will test the draw on the bench power supply but I expect it to be pretty low.
I need to test what fits best, but the hope is to mount my VO switch face plate on that ram mount so it is up and out of the way.
Looking forward to seeing your results with that setup.My wit's end mirror mount and Gentex ADVGEN20A mirror came in. I ordered this one from crutchfield for about $200, you can find these cheaper, used on ebay or pull from pretty much any chevy in a junk yard... but It's hot and I am lazy, and the gen20A supposedly has an upgraded circuit board that is more reliable.
View attachment 3010721
(@baktasht look another ram mount
Oddly it doesn't come with instructions for installing the temperature sensor, so, here's a screen shot of the instructions I found online for anyone trying to add a temp sensor to the Gentex mirrors:
View attachment 3010723
Hope to tackle this tomorrow but we will see what the evening has in store. My plan is to tap into the add-a-fuse circuit that is switched, powering the relay for my analog gauges. Will test the draw on the bench power supply but I expect it to be pretty low.
I need to test what fits best, but the hope is to mount my VO switch face plate on that ram mount so it is up and out of the way.
- Thread starter
- #171
Same, it’ll be nice to get some stuff up and out of the way.
- Thread starter
- #172
Mounted the new mirror today.
I picked up the switched 12v from the sun roof harness (blue wire with black stripe), and grounded on one of the 8mm bolts up there.
It'll calibrate as I drive around then I can set my magnetic field zone.
Temp sensor is mounted just under the hood latch, on the support.
I picked up the switched 12v from the sun roof harness (blue wire with black stripe), and grounded on one of the 8mm bolts up there.
It'll calibrate as I drive around then I can set my magnetic field zone.
Temp sensor is mounted just under the hood latch, on the support.
Gonna call you Uncle Upgrade bud!
- Thread starter
- #174
It's been really hot here in Phx and the 80 has been hanging out in the backyard. She doesn't get many miles in the summer. @UsedLuxury thinks it's too nerdy to share but, I hangout inside and race toy cars in the summer:
Finally got the 80 on an alignment rack to get some caster numbers (1.3*). This is with the land tank 2* correction plates, looks like I need another 2.5* or so to get it within the 2*-4* factory spec. Need to decide what route to go...
I'll measure all of my heights (fender lip to hub center) and post them for folks to compare.
Finally got the 80 on an alignment rack to get some caster numbers (1.3*). This is with the land tank 2* correction plates, looks like I need another 2.5* or so to get it within the 2*-4* factory spec. Need to decide what route to go...
I'll measure all of my heights (fender lip to hub center) and post them for folks to compare.
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- Thread starter
- #176
She got a bath today and a carcovers.com cover to help hide from the AZ sun.
- Thread starter
- #177
So, I did some rough math to figure out what options to go with for the caster correction. My truck measured @ 1.3* with the 2.5" Landtank plates, and those provide roughly +3.375*, so my uncorrected caster after the lift = -2.075*
Toyota FSM calls for 3* +/- 1* and folks with 37's seem to say 4* feels good on highway
I will also be pushing my axle 33mm forward with the Redline cruisers rear radius arm mount plates.
Toyota FSM calls for 3* +/- 1* and folks with 37's seem to say 4* feels good on highway
I will also be pushing my axle 33mm forward with the Redline cruisers rear radius arm mount plates.
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Can you post some pics of where you mounted your lights. I used the same lights, but don't seem to have the same coverage as you.
- Thread starter
- #179
Next time I crawl under there I will snap some pictures. From memory, I have two under the front bumper, two under the sliders, two under the rear bumper
- Thread starter
- #180
short spin tonight, first time on the highway. Hilariously slow 
