Locked NOt seized 2F (1 Viewer)

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Mar 14, 2022
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2
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Location
Mountains of East Tennessee
Greetings to all,
I have recently aquired a 75 fj40 w/ 2f. Not running. It had sat outside for about 10 years dormant. The story was the engine was had been fresh rebuilt (500 miles) and just parked. I thought I would be one of the cool kids and replace a few belts and hoses and be off to the races! NOPE! I have soaked the cylinders with the usual cocktail and it wont budge. Removing the valve cover reveals a pristine valve train (like fresh out of the machine shop) including the galley surface. The seller ( life long family friend, nothing to gain by being dishonest) is just as dismayed about the motor as I am. I have pulled the rear drive shaft and unlocked the front hubs to eliminate the drive train. The clutch is currently in-op due to a slave cylinder that needs replacing. At the end of the day, a 3 foot cheater wont budge the the crank or the flywheel for that matter. My next move will be to drain fluids and drop oil pan for a look-see. Or should I pop off the head and start from the top down? Any ideas of where to go next? Any and all input would be dreatly appreciated. Muchas Gracias Y'all!
2Fhead.jpg
 
I’m rooting for ya. Do you know any details about the rebuild? My 40 I’m working on hasn’t been run in 36 years and that’s what I started with- Kroil down the cylinders and let it sit a couple days.
 
I’m rooting for ya. Do you know any details about the rebuild? My 40 I’m working on hasn’t been run in 36 years and that’s what I started with- Kroil down the cylinders and let it sit a couple days.
Ive soaked for almost a month now. Pb Blast + Seafoam = Marvel Mystery. I have almost broke and twisted the the male part of my Craftsman 1/2 inch breaker bar with torque. I am thinking STRONG mechanical interference. I'd love to be wrong. But Im thinking dissassembly is next.
 
Ive soaked for almost a month now. Pb Blast + Seafoam = Marvel Mystery. I have almost broke and twisted the the male part of my Craftsman 1/2 inch breaker bar with torque. I am thinking STRONG mechanical interference. I'd love to be wrong. But Im thinking dissassembly is next.
+ Marvel Mystery... typo
 
You say you removed the rear driveshaft and unlocked the front hubs. Can you spin the front driveshaft? Can you move the shift cane on the transmission and shift lever on the transfer case? If not hard to say for certain what's locked up. Has the cruiser sat outside without a top. Water in the transmission will rust up the inside. First step before going any further is to get the transmission into neutral. With the transfer case in high range and transmission in neutral you should be able to spin the front driveshaft. Also be sure the hand brake drum is not frozen to the pads. You in a high humidity area. In Arizona thinks doing lock up from rust unless water gets in.
 
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You say you removed the rear driveshaft and unlocked the front hubs. Can you spin the front driveshaft? Can you move the shift cane on the transmission and shift lever on the transfer case? If not hard to say for certain what's locked up. Has the cruiser sat outside without a top. Water in the transmission will rust up the inside. First step before going any further is to get the transmission into neutral.
My gut feeling agrees. Yes, no top without the rubber dust grommet. Initially no play at all on shifter but after penetrating oil I have some left to right and 1 or 2 gear selections. Im gonna pop the top off for a look see. Thank you!
 
Use transmission fluid. Soak the cylinders and let it sit for a few days. If it still won't move then I would pull the engine and start tearing it down. You could pull the transmission hump and see what's going on with the transmission too. But these engines are easy to pull so I would pull it all if I couldn't get it to spin after the transmission fluid.
 
My gut feeling agrees. Yes, no top without the rubber dust grommet. Initially no play at all on shifter but after penetrating oil I have some left to right and 1 or 2 gear selections. Im gonna pop the top off for a look see. Thank you!
Update. First and foremost, Thanks to all! With the shift cane in the side to side movement position, Front shaft spins free as a bird. While under there I tried turning the yoke on the transfer case for the rear drive shaft. NADA! I am now going Address my focus on tranny. Drain all fluids and pop a few covers off.
 
Use transmission fluid. Soak the cylinders and let it sit for a few days. If it still won't move then I would pull the engine and start tearing it down. You could pull the transmission hump and see what's going on with the transmission too. But these engines are easy to pull so I would pull it all if I couldn't get it to spin after the transmission fluid.


Sure you mean automatic transmission fluid. On a 75 it fairly easy to remove the transmission hump then remove the top cover on the transmission. I wouldn’t be pulling the engine unless you know the problem is in the engine. Can pull the transmission and run the engine to access it's condition.
 
Update. First and foremost, Thanks to all! With the shift cane in the side to side movement position, Front shaft spins free as a bird. While under there I tried turning the yoke on the transfer case for the rear drive shaft. NADA! I am now going Address my focus on tranny. Drain all fluids and pop a few covers off.
Once again, the rear drive shaft is removed.
 
As stated above I bet the transmission looks like the sink titanic inside and will need to be replaced.
 
Rooting for you, I am still hoping you have a fresh engine after all of this!

You'll get it and it'll be sweeter for all the trouble!
 
Get a $30 scope camera on Amazon and peek in each cylinder. I recently bought an F engine that was running but sat in a shop for 6 months. The cylinders that had valves open rusted the rings to the bore. I wouldn’t want to be spinning that over even if I could free it up with penetrating oil.
 
Hello All. I removed the top plate of the tranny to take a looky loo. Looked and smelled normal. I drained the gear oil and to my surprise, about a gallon of Georgia rain water came out. followed by gear oil. Thank you *LIVING IN THE PAST for steering me in that direction. I took the driver's side cover off and didnt see any rusty stuff. I can manually find "R", kind of, 2nd and 3rd and 4th easily but no 1st. Also when I engage the hi-lo lever on the transfer case, both front and rear outputs turn in unison when tranny is in neutral. Im on to something but I dont know what. Hopefully NOT on to a transmission shop. Im inclined fill it up with ATF and let it soak. Antbody have any thoughts. And finally. Many thanks!
 
You don't need a transmission shop for a manual gearbox, just a strong back and a set of snap ring pliers. Oh, and 12-ton press is nice, too.
 

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