Mystery wires (1 Viewer)

[Malleus]

EDIT:
if the W/B wire is a ground, can someone identify where it should be connected? (I know it can go anywhere, I'm looking for where Toyota put it). Also, could the Y/B wire be the Oil Pressure sensor? If so, does the 2F have a low oil cutoff switch in the ignition circuit? I'm chasing a starting problem and I'm wondering if this open circuit isn't part of the problem.

Can someone help me identify the two wires in the photos below? The first, terminated in the lobster claw, not quite ring terminal, is a white/black wire from the harness area immediately below the coil. The second is in the distributor area of the harness, is a yellow/black wire. It's the one one paired with the distributor wire coming out of the harness.

FWIW, the black sleeve on the red distributor wire is actually a sleeve, not a wire-wrapped splice.

Also the SOR website parts illustration indicates a condensor on the distributor, inline with the red distributor wire, PartSouq doesn't for any model from 1975 onward. I know my 1976 had one, so PartSouq's page (which I understand they are grabbing from some contract database) is in error, somewhere.
Mine doesn't have one.

And yes, I know it's nasty in there. I'm working on that.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

White black is usually ground.

 

[Malleus]

White black is usually ground.

That was my suspicion, but I was hoping for a definitive "this goes here" kind of thing.

 

[pb4ugo]

1st editing your initial post with new info or questions may not be seen by members who are following this thread. Most folks look at your new/next post and don't look at your changes to your 1st post. As you mentioned the white w/blk tracer is ground and it doesn't really matter where it bolts to grd(frame, body or -bat). My guess it attaches using an m6 bolt, maybe to the fender just looking at the size of the terminal end. Black with a yellow tracer is an ING wire and is hot when the key is on. Do you have a continuity/test light or multimeter. Is the + side of the coil hot with the key on. The oil sender does not disable the ING. I noticed there have been wiring repairs on your harness using scotch locks. These are notorious for failing and is considered a hack or shortcut repair. Did the 40 run b4? What starting problems are you having?

 

[jblatz]

The first, the W/B claw appears to connect to the coil bracket in this @GA Architect image.
Also, described in Coolerman's Dizzy FAQ, Igniter Information.

 

[GA Architect]

EDIT:
if the W/B wire is a ground, can someone identify where it should be connected? (I know it can go anywhere, I'm looking for where Toyota put it). Also, could the Y/B wire be the Oil Pressure sensor? If so, does the 2F have a low oil cutoff switch in the ignition circuit? I'm chasing a starting problem and I'm wondering if this open circuit isn't part of the problem.

Can someone help me identify the two wires in the photos below? The first, terminated in the lobster claw, not quite ring terminal, is a white/black wire from the harness area immediately below the coil. The second is in the distributor area of the harness, is a yellow/black wire. It's the one one paired with the distributor wire coming out of the harness.

View attachment 3015414

View attachment 3015415

FWIW, the black sleeve on the red distributor wire is actually a sleeve, not a wire-wrapped splice.

Also the SOR website parts illustration indicates a condensor on the distributor, inline with the red distributor wire, PartSouq doesn't for any model from 1975 onward. I know my 1976 had one, so PartSouq's page (which I understand they are grabbing from some contract database) is in error, somewhere.
Mine doesn't have one.

And yes, I know it's nasty in there. I'm working on that.

If that is a YB wire, it goes to the oil pressure sensor.

Here it is on my '77:

 

[Malleus]

@jblatz @GA Architect
Thanks very much to both for the info. That solved two immediate problems.
Now, on to removing the crank guard so I can slooowly turn the crank and set the points.

 

[Malleus]

1st editing your initial post with new info or questions may not be seen by members who are following this thread. Most folks look at your new/next post and don't look at your changes to your 1st post. As you mentioned the white w/blk tracer is ground and it doesn't really matter where it bolts to grd(frame, body or -bat). My guess it attaches using an m6 bolt, maybe to the fender just looking at the size of the terminal end. Black with a yellow tracer is an ING wire and is hot when the key is on. Do you have a continuity/test light or multimeter. Is the + side of the coil hot with the key on. The oil sender does not disable the ING. I noticed there have been wiring repairs on your harness using scotch locks. These are notorious for failing and is considered a hack or shortcut repair. Did the 40 run b4? What starting problems are you having?

Well, it won't start. That's about as definite as I can get at this point. Fuel is getting to the carb, the carb is clean and should be functional, based on the appearance. The coil has continuity between the (+) and (-) terminals, and has power, but won't produce a spark. At this point, I'm trying to clean up the smut inside the distributor and set the points so I can cross that off the list. My next goal is to bypass the igniter and see if I can get the coil to produce a spark that way.

If by "scotch locks", you mean the dreaded vampire taps the "professional stereo installers" use, yeah, I saw those under the overflow bottle, too. They're too far away from the ignition circuit, I think, to cause my problem. They are on the list to remove. A PO "professionally" installed a tach at some point. That's on the way out soon.

Still hoping Santa will bless me with a list of troubleshooting steps for the igniter, before I break it open. I don't think the problem is in there though. That'd be too easy.

 

[Malleus]

If that is a YB wire, it goes to the oil pressure sensor.

View attachment 3015485

Here it is on my '77:
View attachment 3015487

View attachment 3015488

One more question, if I may, is the coil bracket supposed to be the coil/igniter ground?

 

[3_puppies]

background info needed
was this rig running?
when did it stop?
was anything done before it won't start?

 

[77mustard40]

Echo GA Architect, my 77 has the white black grounded and the Y/B is the oil pressure sender. Don’t pay attention to my other igniter/coil wiring as I’m running the later FJ60 big cap dizzy and igniter/coil

 

[Malleus]

background info needed
was this rig running?
when did it stop?
was anything done before it won't start?

Not in front of me.
Before I got it, weeks ago. It's reportedly been sitting for at least a year.
No clue.

At this point, I'm trying to get everything in the order it needs to be in, so that I can start a reasonable troubleshooting exercise. FWIW, i really didn't want this thread to turn into that. I was just looking for clues on where the connections were supposed to be, so that I could get started. I do have a "no spark" thread posted separately.

 

[Malleus]

Echo GA Architect, my 77 has the white black grounded and the Y/B is the oil pressure sender. Don’t pay attention to my other igniter/coil wiring as I’m running the later FJ60 big cap dizzy and igniter/coil

View attachment 3015791

View attachment 3015792

Thanks for that. I now have the coil grounded properly. And the oil pressure switch may work, if the engine ever decides to start.