Pulling Trans/transfer questions (1 Viewer)

[MattMud]

Got the trans/transfer out today. Need to jack up back of car to get more clearance to roll it back more to access rms better. I drained majority of trans fluid before dropping trans/transfer. Question: when I dropped it there was a decent bit of trans fluid that began to run out of the bell housing. Not initially but as it came apart about and inch or two. Is that typical? This isn’t the source of my original motor oil leak but began after the bell housing came out about an inch or two. Thanks.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Did your torque converter come out slightly when you pulled the bell housing? It (torque converter) holds a bunch of trans fluid.

 

[MattMud]

Yes it did so that must be it. Thanks.

 

[awesomeissquid]

As a tip, before you go to reconnect the trans to the engine lightly grease the mating surface where the torque converter slips onto the engine. This will make future disassembly easier. In addition, make sure the torque converter is seated far enough into the transmission. Here is the page from the FSM:

 

[MattMud]

Thank you. From what Inhave read and watched, that placement of the torque converter is called the run out. For kicks, can someone explain why it’s called run out? Is it because the torque converter has a tendency to “run out” of its housing in the bell housing?

 

[MattMud]

And, can someone explain why the “green” bolt (mines more black) should go in first when reassembling the flex plate to the torque converter?

 

[awesomeissquid]

Can’t comment on the runout but I do know about the bolts. So when you pull the bolts you will notice the black one is different from the rest. It will have a groove that fits exactly into the hole in the flex plate. This correctly aligns the flex plate and all the other bolts just tighten it down. So that bolt gets installed first so there is no need to shift the plate left or right as you go to get the others in.

 

[Malleus]

Thank you. From what Inhave read and watched, that placement of the torque converter is called the run out. For kicks, can someone explain why it’s called run out? Is it because the torque converter has a tendency to “run out” of its housing in the bell housing?

Where did you hear the term runout in connection with the TC? Runout is the deviation from a perfect circular diametral measurement. It does not relate to lateral movement of a component along a shaft, which I think is what you're assuming? The TC should not slide or slip along the transmission input shaft, once it's installed.

However, there is a tendency for people to use terms they hear and don't understand in inappropriate contexts.

 

[MattMud]

Thanks Malleus. I don’t recall where I heard that term applied to the movement of the TC. I’ll drop the term from my vocab in relation to transmissions and such. Trying to get the flex plate and rms housing plate/panel off this morning before I need to quit for family events today. Thanks again.

 

[MattMud]

So, some guys remove the two centering pins from the block where the rms plate attaches. That enables mashing down on the sealant instead of “scraping” it into the block when pushing the plate back on. I can’t seem to get them out. Anybody know tricks or solution?

 

[jerryb]

vice grips and new pins.
Spend an appropriate amount of time seating that plate, it's important.
So is the the pic that squid posted and setting the flexplate with new bolts and following the fsm. DO measure the TC seat depth.
Reserve 10% of your anger in case it all still leaks and you do it again with both pans off.

run out would be if you measured both sides of the seated depth of the TC, at 3 and 9 oclock, and got different numbers.
As in the shaft was bent that it was spinning on, or the bore of the TC was oblong or wallowed out and didn't seat on a flat face or 90 degrees to the shaft, it would wobble.

 

[MattMud]

Thanks!

 

[MattMud]

Got rms and O ring out. I ring was cracked, totally plasticized/brittle, and flattened. While not the source of all the leaked oil, it was the largest source. I’d be surprised if any significant oil was getting by rms.
Question: I don’t see any differences on the flex plate to know where green/black bolt goes. Help?
Question: why new bolts for flex plate? I don’t have my fsm in front of me but the torque isn’t that much to stretch them (I don’t think).
Question: anyone know the part number for the centering pins for rms plate or should I just source some generically?

 

[awesomeissquid]

The bolt locations don’t matter. Just that you do the black one first

 

[jerryb]

36 ft pounds on the plate bolts, if they can't make 36, then get new. (that's what it says) It doesn't say not reusable. New they are precoated, I sill used loctite 271. Then mark them, then additional 90 degree tighten in same start pattern. I specifically remember laughing at the dealer counter when they told me the price for these bolts. I got new ones from part souk instead. But I did pay 100 for a new rear retainer at that dealer counter.
I had initially planned on re using the bolts.

6mm X 14 matches with my book.

 

[MattMud]

Thank you!

 

[MattMud]

Got it all back in and ready to test drive. Checked the trans fluid level (I did drain most of it) and it shows well above the hot marks. Weird. When the car isn’t running, does the fluid all drain back into the pan? Or, said differently, is the cooler and lines only full when the pump is pushing it up and out there?

 

[awesomeissquid]

I would only check the trans fluid level after driving and getting it to operating temperature. Before you drive, I would add approximately as much fluid as you drained out to ensure you are not driving the system on low fluid.

 

[Eyedaho]

Got it all back in and ready to test drive. Checked the trans fluid level (I did drain most of it) and it shows well above the hot marks. Weird. When the car isn’t running, does the fluid all drain back into the pan? Or, said differently, is the cooler and lines only full when the pump is pushing it up and out there?

Your torque converter holds a significant amount of fluid, so if it slid forward and fluid came out then once it starts pumping around the transmission you will likely see the level drop on the dip stick. Since your TC sits sideways, some fluid can't gravity drain back to the pan.

 

[MattMud]

Thanks everyone. I’ll take it slow and check frequently until it stabilizes.