Won't start unless I jump it (2 Viewers)

[jasheehan]

As the title says, my rig will not start unless I jump it with another vehicle.

Background:
- replaced battery in JAN
- had starting problem in FEB - replaced fuseable link; fixed problem.
- starter is only about 3 years old (OEM) and it has ~10k miles.
- I replaced all the battery/ground cables with heavy duty cables same time as starter (2019) using cables from a mud vendor (can't recall vendor??).
- I do have a remote starter installed from the PO. It has never given me a problem in the 12 years I've owned this rig, but I've always planned to rip it out. But, the wires are a mess under the dash and I'm afraid to start pulling wires.

After replacing the fuseable link in FEB, I haven't had any issues. This weekend, I attempted to start,= just clicked (starter solenoid??). I jumped it, started it and drove for 20 min. Went to start, click. I jumped it again with another vehicle and drove to Advance Auto. The tech checked the battery while running and it registered 16.4A (I think). I shut off and the battery showed a good charge. I tried to start = nothing. He begrudgingly replaced the battery with a new one. Tried to start = nothing. The tech went into the store and brought out the jumper box and tried the jump it - nothing. We chatted, and he left me in the parking lot. I waived down a car, jumped it with a car = started.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[-Spike-]

As the title says, my rig will not start unless I jump it with another vehicle.

Background:
- replaced battery in JAN
- had starting problem in FEB - replaced fuseable link; fixed problem.
- starter is only about 3 years old (OEM) and it has ~10k miles.
- I replaced all the battery/ground cables with heavy duty cables same time as starter (2019) using cables from a mud vendor (can't recall vendor??).
- I do have a remote starter installed from the PO. It has never given me a problem in the 12 years I've owned this rig, but I've always planned to rip it out. But, the wires are a mess under the dash and I'm afraid to start pulling wires.

After replacing the fuseable link in FEB, I haven't had any issues. This weekend, I attempted to start,= just clicked (starter solenoid??). I jumped it, started it and drove for 20 min. Went to start, click. I jumped it again with another vehicle and drove to Advance Auto. The tech checked the battery while running and it registered 16.4A (I think). I shut off and the battery showed a good charge. I tried to start = nothing. He begrudgingly replaced the battery with a new one. Tried to start = nothing. The tech went into the store and brought out the jumper box and tried the jump it - nothing. We chatted, and he left me in the parking lot. I waived down a car, jumped it with a car = started.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

I'd look at the starter, clicking with no turnover is the classic sign of starter contacts going bad, and extra juice can overcome the problem. Will it start if you click it several (dozen) times?

FWIW I recently (Jan 2020) replaced my starter with a new remanufactured Denso unit and I'm currently having this issue.

 

[cahill]

I had a similar issue and thought it was the battery as well. The battery tested fine and did some reading. Decided to replace the starter and haven't had any problems since. Been meaning to rebuild the old one as a spare but haven't gotten around to it yet.....

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Make sure your battery cables are tight.

 

[Njck22]

Remote start makes me think parasitic draw. Pull the fuses for it and see if the issue still occurs. It is also not unheard of for batteries to be bad off the shelf. No way it was 16.4v

 

[jasheehan]

Thanks all. It was 16.4V running, IIRC. I think that's accurate given the alternator adding charge? Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe it was 14.6?

I'll try a new starter; figured mine would last longer than a few years. I haven't cycled the key, but did try tapping it with a hammer.

Yes, all the cables are tight. I don't think it is a parasitic draw as the battery was new and the tech put his tester on it and it tested good.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Remember the 3rd rule of diagnostics, new doesn't mean good.

 

[Njck22]

Thanks all. It was 16.4V running, IIRC. I think that's accurate given the alternator adding charge? Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe it was 14.6?

I'll try a new starter; figured mine would last longer than a few years. I haven't cycled the key, but did try tapping it with a hammer.

Yes, all the cables are tight. I don't think it is a parasitic draw as the battery was new and the tech put his tester on it and it tested good.

14.8v sounds right. So he put a brand new battery in it, and it wouldn't start? Have you checked that the new starter and ground cables(especially the one to the block) are all snugged down?

 

[jasheehan]

So, why would it NOT START when the dude from Advanced Auto put that power jumper thingy on it, but it WOULD start by jumping it????

He rechecked the battery for charge after he installed it, so I assume (I can only take his word for it) that the new battery is/does work?

Cables and connections all tight. Thanks.

 

[Irish Reiver]

I had Advanced Auto test my battery about 2 weeks back. It would not turn over the truck so i removed and drove it down for testing. Advanced Auto used their diagnostic tool and said the battery was fine. Drove 1/2 mile to Autoparts, they stuck their diagnostic tester on it and said it was bad. I can't remember what the internal fault was but it confirmed my own diagnosis. Not all battery testers are equal...

 

[jasheehan]

Replaced the starter tonight. No change. It would not start unless I jumped it. Any other recommendations? Could it be an issue with the Fusible Link again?

 

[Njck22]

What is the current battery’s resting(nothing on) voltage?

 

[jasheehan]

12.6v

 

[Njck22]

12.6v

And you turn the key and you hear the solenoid “click”.. but no crank?

 

[jasheehan]

yes, click but no crank.

 

[Njck22]

yes, click but no crank.

But it will start if there is another battery connected with jumper cables, which are connected directly to you current batteries posts, or is it to your batteries positive and the block ground/lifting hook?

 

[rc51kid]

But it will start if there is another battery connected with jumper cables, which are connected directly to you current batteries posts, or is it to your batteries positive and the block ground/lifting hook?

I see where you are gping with this and it is good. The batt could be good. Terminal bolts can be screwed down tight but still not be making good contact becouse they are corroded, bent or crap. Cables can also be bad. A lot of people jump off of the block which would bypass a lot of wiring coming off the batt.

If the people jumping the truck when it does start are put the ground on the block rather than the batt terminal then i would look really close at the neg batt cable and contacts.

I dont know a lot about wiring. But your starter draws a lot of current. Meaning you could have contact to it just fine. But if it is not GOOD contact then it wont flow enought current to work properly. Your started selonid will click but the starter wont turn.

Simple question, how clean are your battery cable terminals? Are they making good contact with the batt? Jumper cables will grab the outside of the terminal and dig in.

Dont just keep tightening them. Make sure they are clean properly tightened and not bent.

I had a batt cable terminal that I could tighten until the two ends touched and it would still vibrate loose. It was just a crap design and soft metal that deformed.

 

[jasheehan]

Thanks. I’ll check everything again. I connect directly to the battery posts when jumping.

 

[davidp14]

I spent a week and $200 on the same situation with my sons Subaru. I replaced the battery, starter, and positive and negative wires, no good.

Then I replaced the $6 ground cable which took about 2 mins., and it started right up and never did it again.

 

[Malleus]

^ I was about to post this before I read your comment. Remember it's the entire conductor that has to conduct current, not just the end connectors. Someone I know recently had an electrical fault that was traced to internal corrosion in a ground cable. It wasn't positively located until the insulation was stripped off the cable and visually verified, but the ohmmeter showed the fault.

Just for grins, what's the resistance in your main ground cable and the positive lead directly to the battery?