Builds Marvin - '76 FJ40 (2 Viewers)

[Fast Eddy]

E-Locker Circuit

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/740974-e-locker-circuit.html#post8566786

 

[fj40duge]

Up dates?

 

[Fast Eddy]

On the e-locker thingee? I'll try to update before Rubithon, but I'm going to be swamped with to-do list items.

We tested the controller and both channels are 100%. I cut it down to size (4"x3"x1.75") and got a metal box that it fits in, so I have to mount it, connect it to the switch (headlight switch) and figure out where I'm going to put some "locked" indicators. They're either going into the OEM triple indicator for belts and brakes, or maybe right into the face of the headlamp switch if they'll fit. I need to find some 12v LEDs.

I've been working on hand controls on the shifter for the throttle and the lockers. Not sure if I'm going to continue to work on them or punt for this trip. Depends on when I get my carb.

My new Napa clutch master is leaking, so I'll probably have to swap that out before I go, and the Rubicon thread guys told me I should have a proper spare tire mount instead of strapping it to my cage, which was my plan. Lot's to do...

 

[Fast Eddy]

Ok, Marvin has two working e-lockers; ready for Rubicon. We'll add some grease to the knuckles if the stars align this evening.

The controller is in the aluminum box, which is now mounted to the floor and cowl below the passenger-side kick vent. The wiring is under the floor mat, kind of messy, but out of sight.

This is the wiring between the switch (an FJ40 headlight switch) and the controller. The rear locker is connected to the yellow 5-wire trailer cable. The rear locker gets it's ground from the chassis at the back.



The front locker uses an OEM harness I got somewhere. I used crimp connectors stuffed into the OEM connector so I didn't have to cut it off.



The extra blue wires are for the "locked" lamps. I didn't get to those yet.

 

[Fast Eddy]

The switch is mounted to the firewall behind the heater duct.



It is actuated with a choke cable mounted on the gearshift where there is also a hand throttle. It looks pretty hokey, so I'm not sure how long I'm going to keep it. It seems solid, but will depend on how it all performs on the trail.

 

[RockDoc]

So the parking light position engages the rear locker, and the headlight position engages both? Pretty slick.

 

[Fast Eddy]

So the parking light position engages the rear locker, and the headlight position engages both? Pretty slick.

Yup.

Originally I was thinking I would connect the rear locker to the dash lights circuit so it could be disabled independently by rotating the dimmer, but I punted that. I don't see much reason to have front-locker-only.

Edit: One reason I came up with the Rube Goldberg hand control for the e-lockers is that the giant headlight switch doesn't fit behind the dash anywhere except where the original headlight switch is located.

 

[RockDoc]

For my pig I'm thinking of using a pair of rear window switches in the dash, that's a little way off yet though. In the 62 I'm using the antenna up-down switch.

 

[Fast Eddy]

It is actuated with a choke cable mounted on the gearshift where there is also a hand throttle. It looks pretty hokey, so I'm not sure how long I'm going to keep it. It seems solid, but will depend on how it all performs on the trail.

After wheeling this setup through Rubicon I find it hard to believe that everyone isn't running something like this. I can disengage the lockers just as I crest an obstacle without taking my hand off the throttle or wheel. I am sold.

 

[bikersmurf]

As an alternative to the brake lever, some have used a smaller thumb shift lever mounted to the stick shift. I've not done it... Yet.

 

[ewright]

this build is epic!

 

[Fast Eddy]

I never said much in this thread about my soft top and bows.

The Bows are mostly OEM that I got from Craigslist maybe even before I got this truck. The over-door channels and the brackets for the rear bar came from Ehsan from Pakistan. I don't remember where I got the windshield channel. Probably one of the swap meets.

I have some guys who do Cerakote who did some work on my bar stools. They matched 853 pretty well, so we're going to do some work together. I'm not sure how far I'm going to go with it, but I'm going to do the bows, the fender plates, the rocker guards and the tail gate to start. Stay tuned!

My top is an OCD top that came from his sister from Ebay around the time some people were getting 'disgruntled'. It was really nice. FFWD 8+ years of sitting outside, covered by a really nice @Trollhole trail cover and it's rotten where it contacts the curves of the B-pillar and center bow, one spot in the back and one spot where the neighbor's cat likes to hang out. I pulled it off and I'm going to see if a local shop will repair it for not-too-much.

I cleaned it a bit with carpet cleaner and a broom in the driveway, but I can't say it's much different. Hopefully I knocked down the moldy toxicity some.

 

[65swb45]

Don’t waste your time or money. Canvas has a life expectancy. Trying to save it at this point is an exercise in futility.
I learned this last fall.
And then when it fails on you, it will be when you are counting on it to protect you from the elements.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Don’t waste your time or money. Canvas has a life expectancy. Trying to save it at this point is an exercise in futility.
I learned this last fall.
And then when it fails on you, it will be when you are counting on it to protect you from the elements.

New ones are a year out, and I have no windows, so protection from the elements is relative.

My trip to the canvas shop will be multi-purpose: to get this one patched good enough to keep the sun off my head for a year, and to find out what their quote would be to make me a copy or 10. The majority of the canvas is not in too bad of shape to be patched successfully, but I'll see what they have to say.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I went and paid up the DMV fees awhile back. Not sure why they don't send renewal notices, but I'm guessing it's 2 years due again.

Last time I got moving permits and planned to get it tested the PS pump started howling, so I never went. Then I got a new mountain bike and procrastinated all the way until now. Once @Racer65 gets back from "Spring Break" and sells me a PS Pump, I'll get it back together and that's going to be at the top of the list.

Hey @65swb45, my carb won't ever let the RPM drop below a fast idle after sitting for some years. I start it occasionally, enough so that I have never had to charge or jump start it. It's not the choke adjustment. WTH? I'm not carb illiterate, but this one has me a bit baffled. As I recall, the accel plates are all the way closed. Could it be a big leak at the base pulling in air? Hmm. Something about the air pump?

It was also overheating, so I could never let it run long enough to actually figure out the carb. I figured maybe the thermostat was stuck shut. So I drained the radiator, which was the easy way to get to the PS pump anyway. There was about a quart of fluid in there. Flushed the block with a hose and it seems ok. I'm going to unstick the heater valve and do the same there. It had most or all new hoses in recent memory.


So thinking aloud:

1. Flush cooling system; fix the heater valve, which is stuck solid at the moment
2. Fix 2 pin-holes in the radiator; at the top, successfully patched with JB Weld long ago; they still hold, but I want metal there
3. Test thermostat
4. New PS pump
5. Cerakote some parts
6. Check steering; maybe a leak at Saginaw box seal, something loose at the Saginaw input coupling, loose nut behind the wheel
7. Oil change; hasn't been done in a long time, 5+ years, but almost no miles. I blame the 80 series, which is also due for an oil change.
8. Fix the carby
9. Smog check & Registration
10. Cerakote some bigger parts; maybe the whole thing.
11. Rebuild the hi-lift jack, again.
12. Color-matched monsta-liner for the rear floor; fix ongoing rust issues; the pretty floor in post 90 didn't last.
13. New tires; and a spare tire carrier of some kind. I always kept one inside before, strapped down
14. Check out the e-lockers; the front one was having an issue when it was on a long sleep-over date at Ron Diaz' shop in Gilroy
15. Tune up the hand throttle and e-locker switch
16. Finish my dual battery setup; all the mechanical is there, just need a bunch of cables crimped
17. 2nd fuse box and wire some circuits over to the secondary battery
18. LED bulbs in the parking lights and reverse lights so I can use them when camping
19. Half-door panels with speakers; haven't had tunes since I took off the real doors
20. Reupholster the jump seats
21. 8274; it's in the garage for now. Tempted to just change the oil and put it back. I don't think it's ever been used much, but it's 40 yo.

 

[EWheeler]

I went and paid up the DMV fees awhile back. Not sure why they don't send renewal notices, but I'm guessing it's 2 years due again.

Last time I got moving permits and planned to get it tested the PS pump started howling, so I never went. Then I got a new mountain bike and procrastinated all the way until now. Once @Racer65 gets back from "Spring Break" and sells me a PS Pump, I'll get it back together and that's going to be at the top of the list.

Hey @65swb45, my carb won't ever let the RPM drop below a fast idle after sitting for some years. I start it occasionally, enough so that I have never had to charge or jump start it. It's not the choke adjustment. WTH? I'm not carb illiterate, but this one has me a bit baffled. As I recall, the accel plates are all the way closed. Could it be a big leak at the base pulling in air? Hmm. Something about the air pump?

It was also overheating, so I could never let it run long enough to actually figure out the carb. I figured maybe the thermostat was stuck shut. So I drained the radiator, which was the easy way to get to the PS pump anyway. There was about a quart of fluid in there. Flushed the block with a hose and it seems ok. I'm going to unstick the heater valve and do the same there. It had most or all new hoses in recent memory.


So thinking aloud:

1. Flush cooling system; fix the heater valve, which is stuck solid at the moment
2. Fix 2 pin-holes in the radiator; at the top, successfully patched with JB Weld long ago; they still hold, but I want metal there
3. Test thermostat
4. New PS pump
5. Cerakote some parts
6. Check steering; maybe a leak at Saginaw box seal, something loose at the Saginaw input coupling, loose nut behind the wheel
7. Oil change; hasn't been done in a long time, 5+ years, but almost no miles. I blame the 80 series, which is also due for an oil change.
8. Fix the carby
9. Smog check & Registration
10. Cerakote some bigger parts; maybe the whole thing.
11. Rebuild the hi-lift jack, again.
12. Color-matched monsta-liner for the rear floor; fix ongoing rust issues; the pretty floor in post 90 didn't last.
13. New tires; and a spare tire carrier of some kind. I always kept one inside before, strapped down
14. Check out the e-lockers; the front one was having an issue when it was on a long sleep-over date at Ron Diaz' shop in Gilroy
15. Tune up the hand throttle and e-locker switch
16. Finish my dual battery setup; all the mechanical is there, just need a bunch of cables crimped
17. 2nd fuse box and wire some circuits over to the secondary battery
18. LED bulbs in the parking lights and reverse lights so I can use them when camping
19. Half-door panels with speakers; haven't had tunes since I took off the real doors
20. Reupholster the jump seats
21. 8274; it's in the garage for now. Tempted to just change the oil and put it back. I don't think it's ever been used much, but it's 40 yo.

Look forward to watching you put some life back into this thing!

 

[Fast Eddy]

I went and paid up the DMV fees awhile back. Not sure why they don't send renewal notices, but I'm guessing it's 2 years due again.

Last time I got moving permits and planned to get it tested the PS pump started howling, so I never went. Then I got a new mountain bike and procrastinated all the way until now. Once @Racer65 gets back from "Spring Break" and sells me a PS Pump, I'll get it back together and that's going to be at the top of the list.

Hey @65swb45, my carb won't ever let the RPM drop below a fast idle after sitting for some years. I start it occasionally, enough so that I have never had to charge or jump start it. It's not the choke adjustment. WTH? I'm not carb illiterate, but this one has me a bit baffled. As I recall, the accel plates are all the way closed. Could it be a big leak at the base pulling in air? Hmm. Something about the air pump?

It was also overheating, so I could never let it run long enough to actually figure out the carb. I figured maybe the thermostat was stuck shut. So I drained the radiator, which was the easy way to get to the PS pump anyway. There was about a quart of fluid in there. Flushed the block with a hose and it seems ok. I'm going to unstick the heater valve and do the same there. It had most or all new hoses in recent memory.


So thinking aloud:

1. Flush cooling system; fix the heater valve, which is stuck solid at the moment
2. Fix 2 pin-holes in the radiator; at the top, successfully patched with JB Weld long ago; they still hold, but I want metal there
3. Test thermostat
4. New PS pump
5. Cerakote some parts
6. Check steering; maybe a leak at Saginaw box seal, something loose at the Saginaw input coupling, loose nut behind the wheel
7. Oil change; hasn't been done in a long time, 5+ years, but almost no miles. I blame the 80 series, which is also due for an oil change.
8. Fix the carby
9. Smog check & Registration
10. Cerakote some bigger parts; maybe the whole thing.
11. Rebuild the hi-lift jack, again.
12. Color-matched monsta-liner for the rear floor; fix ongoing rust issues; the pretty floor in post 90 didn't last.
13. New tires; and a spare tire carrier of some kind. I always kept one inside before, strapped down
14. Check out the e-lockers; the front one was having an issue when it was on a long sleep-over date at Ron Diaz' shop in Gilroy
15. Tune up the hand throttle and e-locker switch
16. Finish my dual battery setup; all the mechanical is there, just need a bunch of cables crimped
17. 2nd fuse box and wire some circuits over to the secondary battery
18. LED bulbs in the parking lights and reverse lights so I can use them when camping
19. Half-door panels with speakers; haven't had tunes since I took off the real doors
20. Reupholster the jump seats
21. 8274; it's in the garage for now. Tempted to just change the oil and put it back. I don't think it's ever been used much, but it's 40 yo.

1. Done, posted a pic in the What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? thread.

2. So far I've skipped over #2, re-fixing the radiator repair that's perfectly fine. Depending on #5, I may take it to the radiator shop and have him fix it. I'm not confident in my soldering skills. Feel free to try to talk me into it. I have a propane torch and some good, old, thick (lead?) solder. I'd need some rosin.

3. Done. Works fine. would kill me if she found out I boiled it in the pot she uses for boiled eggs.

4. Done. Lot's of greasy brackets cleaned and pained that you can barely see in the pic. I swapped out HW store bolts with OEM from my stash that will allow me to remove the PS pump without removing half the front of the truck to get to it. The back bolt was long enough that it hit the exhaust manifold while it was still in the threads. It's fixed now. I should've used the prettier bolt on the side you can see. Oh well. I might find a minute to fix it before I button it all up.

5. The Cerakote guy is finally coming over today after I already cleaned and rattle-canned the brackets. If he promises to be quick I may wait for him to do the radiator surround that's not painted yet. Sigh. I've also got the front bumper off and the four main brackets for him to 'kote'.

6. I found that the set screw at the steering box was not tight. It's a splined connection that wasn't going anywhere in any case, but it's fixed now. I'm going to see how the leak develops after I get it back together. The local steering box guy will only fully rebuild and not simply replace the seals, as I would prefer. The box only has a few thousand miles on it since I bought the rebuild from Napa. I watched the youtube videos about replacing the seals. I'm not thrilled to do it myself. We shall see how this develops.

7,8,9. Still toDo.

10. As per #22, I'm going to disassemble the hood pieces and have them Cerakoted for lack of a better option. I just went out and sprayed the nuts on the hood and windshield hooks with PB Blaster.

11-21. Still toDo.

New:

22. While I was fooling around, I repaired the washer pump and ordered a hood squirter from City Racer. I was going to poke it into the hood, but I couldn't bring myself to do it because of the rust. See #10.

23. Patch holes in the soft top. Tops are expensive and, worse, far out in time. I'm going to patch up my current top and see if I can make it last another season or two while I wait for a new one. They have canvas drop cloths at Harbor Freight, so I bought one for $7 for material. I have a HF awl that will work great for hand sewing. I'll need to get a good working area set up and get myself in the right mindset for the job.