Giving Up On PerTronix (1 Viewer)

[Steamer]

I know some folks love’em and I did too but after 3 dead Pertronix Ignitors, I’m done with them.

I ran the original black Ignitor I, for about 12 years in a new vacuum advance non-usa dizzy with never a problem. I switched to the Ignitor II (red) since they were supposedly improved with better electronics and overload protection which could occur by leaving the key on for a long time.

The first ignitor II was paired up with the recommended Pertronix Flamethrower II coil. It lasted as long as the 30-month warranty then died. So, I bought a second Ignitor II and that one was DOA out of the box. After a few weeks of hassle with the warranty and dealing with Pertronix support, I finally got it replaced. I also replaced the perfectly good coil just to have a spare for testing. This 3rd Ignitor II lasted 9 months and left me stranded in the swamp just recently

I’m aware that many folks have had great, trouble free experiences with them and I did too for 12 years but now I’ve had enough fails to make me move on to something else.

I read up a lot here on mud about the 81-87 big cap dizzy with the fender mounted igniter & coil. It sounds like a great, well recommended option but I’m concerned that the dizzy nor the igniter are not available as new. As good as they are I’d still have to rely on tracking down used units in good shape and if I have any problems then I’m again looking for available used units or parts and spending time repairing or replacing.

I would give the Trollhole dizzy a try but it’s been unavailable for a while and I’ve found no info when it might be again.

So, I decided to go for a “Performance Distributors” D.U.I. made for the F-2F model 80820BK. I like that it’s brand new, it’s an all in one unit and new parts are readily available at most auto parts stores. Folks that have them and not the Chinese knock offs seem to have good luck So, we’ll see. It’s scheduled to arrive today.

 

[ryanwk628]

Since I still have a vac retard dizzy, running on mechanical advance alone, I am inclined to go the same route. I notice the lack of vac advance chugging up hills and there are not many options available. Purists cringe but I know if I do a future EFI swap the DUI will make things easier with a clean tac signal. Im interested to hear your experience with the installation and performance. Are you doing the DUI wires too? Curious if they are they worth the $$$

 

[Couse44]

Damn! I just bought that exact kit. I guess let's see if I have the same experience.

 

[Steamer]

ryanwk628, No I didn't get their "Live Wires". I recently put on new set of Belden Edge wires "BEL 700126" from Napa so I'll try them out first. I ran the Belden's for about 12 years. They looked perfect but just thought they were due for a change. I'd forgotten what I had on there and just bought a set of "AC Delco 9066N" and those were just junk. Didn't even get them all on when I removed and threw them away. Pulled the Beldens out of the trash for identification and got a new set. Huge difference in the quality of the connectors. How they are electronically I just don't know but I'll try them first since they're almost new.

Couse44, Did you mean you got the Pertronix? Hey, a lot of folks love'em. Maybe my experience was a fluke but it enough to make me change. I hope you have great luck with yours.

EDIT: 1/22/19 I did go with their "Live Wires" because the connectors on the DUI cap are different and the new AC delco or Belden wires simply wouldn't work.

 

[thebigredrocker]

@Steamer
So the Ignitor never failed and was working fine, but you switched to the Ignitor II? And the Ignitor II is what failed?

 

[Steamer]

So the Ignitor never failed and was working fine, but you switched to the Ignitor II? And the Ignitor II is what failed?

That's correct. The Ignitor (black) still works fine and I used it for testing prove to Pertronix support that the ignitor II was indeed dead.
With the Ignitor (black) It required a different coil and a ballast resistor. Since my starter didn't have the extra terminal (aux contacts) I had to use a relay for the resistor bypass for starting. The Ignitor II (red) didn't require a ballast resistor when paired up with the Flamthrower II coil. That enabled me to do away with the resistor, relay and the extra wiring. I considered going back to the Ignitor (black) and rewire it with the other coil, relay and ballast resistor and buying another Ignitor (black) for back-up. But then there'd be a few more parts to risk failing. So with Pertronix components and accessories I've spent more than what the new D.U.I costs. And that's excluding the new non-usa dizzy I got years ago.

 

[Trollhole]

I would give the Trollhole dizzy a try but it’s been unavailable for a while and I’ve found no info when it might be again.

I'm trying but unless my manufacturer is willing to change the curve I don't want to make a bunch and redo them again. Hoping in the next few months but I've been saying that for a year now.

 

[DougAustinTx]

You don't need the ballast resistor, or the "special coil", or the wiring terminal using the start-circuit on your starter solenoid. To use your old ignitor, buy a coil made for 12 volts at any car parts place and wire it as normal (just put the wire that used to go to the ballast straight to the coil. Also, that old circuit on the starter solenoid that boosted the voltage to the car during the cranking isn't required on engines using an ignitor as long as your B+ voltage (12 volts in a car) is good.
I like the hybrid system used on the '76 and '77 models that used the points to trigger the ignitor. If you think your ignitor is bad, just wire up a GM HEI module and trigger it from the points. Look up "inverter HEI ignition" and you'll find it on the web and probably on this site as well. The GM HEI is ubiquitous and seldom fails if it is properly heat-sinked.

 

[Steamer]

I'm trying but unless my manufacturer is willing to change the curve I don't want to make a bunch and redo them again. Hoping in the next few months but I've been saying that for a year now.

I Understand Marshall. I just had to get something going now.

 

[Steamer]

You don't need the ballast resistor, or the "special coil", or the wiring terminal using the start-circuit on your starter solenoid. To use your old ignitor, buy a coil made for 12 volts at any car parts place and wire it as normal (just put the wire that used to go to the ballast straight to the coil. Also, that old circuit on the starter solenoid that boosted the voltage to the car during the cranking isn't required on engines using an ignitor as long as your B+ voltage (12 volts in a car) is good.
I like the hybrid system used on the '76 and '77 models that used the points to trigger the ignitor. If you think your ignitor is bad, just wire up a GM HEI module and trigger it from the points. Look up "inverter HEI ignition" and you'll find it on the web and probably on this site as well. The GM HEI is ubiquitous and seldom fails if it is properly heat-sinked.

It was back in 2000 but if memory serves me right it was recommended that with 1.5 ohm coil a resistor should be used. With a 3 ohm coil no resistor needed. I got the Ignitor and coil with a resistor attached as a kit. (1.5 ohm)

Yes I could of bought yet another coil (3 ohm) and gone back to the original Ignitor with out the resistor.
I did research the HEI triggered by points but my points and points plate are long gone.
I didn't rush into this. I've been reading up on options since my first Ignitor II failure about 10 months ago.
Lots of options out there. Just decided to try the D.U.I.

It was delivered an hour ago. Sure is big! If weather allows I'll put it in tomorrow.

 

[kurtnkegger]

My Ignitor II also failed, albeit 5 years after install...My stock points worked just fine for about 35 years before that...I went back to stock...

 

[SteveH]

The few people I know with Pertronix went back to stock after the module fried. I'd (at least) keep the OEM ignition parts in the glovebox to allow a roadside repair.

 

[Steamer]

Recent posts about the Pertronix made me think of something that I thought I should mention in my old Pertronix post here.

Recalling the events of my red Ignitor 2 failures, I remember that two times I had a low battery situation. Both times I had left the parking lights on overnight and the engine barely cranked. I then got a jump and it cranked fine but would not start. I then diagnosed there was no spark. On both occasions, after it sat for an hour or more, it fired right up and worked fine after that. I later thought that cranking with a low battery caused the internal overload to trip and then later it cooled down and reset. Then on later occasions the internal overload simply opened and never reset. It is just a theory, but I do believe the overload is a weakness of the Ignitor 2.

 

[Malleus]

Recent posts about the Pertronix made me think of something that I thought I should mention in my old Pertronix post here.

Recalling the events of my red Ignitor 2 failures, I remember that two times I had a low battery situation. Both times I had left the parking lights on overnight and the engine barely cranked. I then got a jump and it cranked fine but would not start. I then diagnosed there was no spark. On both occasions, after it sat for an hour or more, it fired right up and worked fine after that. I later thought that cranking with a low battery caused the internal overload to trip and then later it cooled down and reset. Then on later occasions the internal overload simply opened and never reset. It is just a theory, but I do believe the overload is a weakness of the Ignitor 2.

That makes me feel great about the PerTronix I just bought...

WHat's the difference between the 1662LS and the Ignitor II?

 

[Steamer]

The 1662LS is the original Ignitor l. The 91662LS red Ignitor ll is the upgraded version that came out later and has the protection from leaving the ignition on long term. I never had a problem with the Ignitor l and if I hadn't upgraded, I'd probably be still be running with it. If you check page 17 in the catalog "HERE" you'll see you had two choices. IMO you have the better of the two. Just don't leave the ignition on long term without it running.

 

[bikersmurf]

It’s for reasons like this that I’m still running my converted points distributor. I’ve never had a problem with the Crane Cams Flame Thrower points conversion (SBC btw). However I carry a set of points just in case.

With a set of points, a few feet of speaker wire, and a pair of jumper cables, I can rewire enough of the engine bay to drive home… even if the wiring harness burnt up and tried to leave me stranded.

 

[Cherrick]

Ugh. I just bought a dizzy from Mark A. with a Pertronix electronic ignition and (waiting for) a Pertronix coil, ... for my '74 FJ40 that won't start. I also got the NAPA suppresion core plug wires.

Should I have gone with DUI?

 

[bhsdriller]

No they work fine