Mating tranny to motor 1fz (1 Viewer)

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Fj80oregon

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Anybody got any tips for getting these to suck in? I have them lined up perfect I think. Torque convertor clicked in when I set it. Thanks Wes

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Guessing torque convertor is not in all the way.
 
Guess I could just do it by the book! Sometimes I post and that makes me think about it. And I answere my own question.

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You don't have the tranny square to the block. It'll bind up on dowel pins and shafts.

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Raise the rear of the trans so the gap stays equal. (In your pic, the gap to the block is wider at the top that at the bottom. This is enough for it to bind up)
Rotate the engine a little to be sure you have the shaft and TC aligned
Make sure dowel pins are aligned
Once you're sure it's all aligned, use bell housing bolts to cinch it into place
 
Agree with everyone else that the torque converter is not properly seated. It will sit really tight against the housing. When you install it there are three different components to line up. Also, clean off the stub with some emory cloth so it engages with the engine easier.
 
How did it go?
 
Nice big shop there. 👍🏼
 
The torque converter wasn’t lined up with the flex plate so I had to partially separate and spin the converter to line up the holes. Now I know for the next time. :doh:
 
I win! It was much easier after I took motor mounts of than dropped in the new isolators and then dropped motor mounts on those and bolted up.

Nice work! :clap:

I wish I had your posts & pictures BEFORE I did mine. I wrestled with the engine mounts for hours - almost gave up. I did go in a corner and cry😭

but :deadhorse: we 80 lovers are a stubborn lot. I could say other "things" about us, but well, this is a family channel. :slap:
 
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It’s alive!!!! Motor sounds great. Only thing I hear I don’t like is power steering pump is making noise. It’s pretty much brand new bought less than 5k ago. I lost a lot of fluid on the swap so will probable have to bleed the air out. Besides that and putting all the front clip back on it’s a good day!

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Idle was super high at start up so I shut down quick and adjusted cable. Have a new oem to replace with. Also oil pressure was high I am assuming that will come down once I get the 650/700 sweet spot set at idle need to time it also. Idling at 1100 now but have not got it up to temp yet either.
 
glad you got it together and thanks for posting the education for the rest of us.

Why the rebuild? and what all did you do? did I miss a build thread? I love me some engine porn.
 
Idle was super high at start up so I shut down quick and adjusted cable. Have a new oem to replace with. Also oil pressure was high I am assuming that will come down once I get the 650/700 sweet spot set at idle need to time it also. Idling at 1100 now but have not got it up to temp yet either.
Battery disconnect resets ECM, fast idle goes to normal after a little "relearning" :wrench:
Mine did the same thing. Frustrating because I was still getting fluids up to level, etc.:meh:
Should be fine, soon enough.
Nice work bro!:beer::clap::steer:
 
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My motor was burning lots of oil and I plan on turbocharging or super charging one day so I wanted a fresh motor. I bought a donor motor from a local cruiser head who did a ls swap and bored it out, new pistons, all new bearings, rebuilt head, every seal and gasket is oem and new that I could touch. ARP head studs. I have a thread but I never update it. It was a ton of work but I now have a great grasp on the whole system and piece of mind that it was done correct(by me) and will last my lifetime. Don’t drive my vehicles much do to a work truck.
glad you got it together and thanks for posting the education for the rest of us.

Why the rebuild? and what all did you do? did I miss a build thread? I love me some engine porn
 

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