Builds My New Project (1 Viewer)

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my Griffin radiator decides it's going to leak now. Pooling on the bottom sil
Had two new CBR radiators do the exact same thing to me in the angry pig.
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Talked to Ron Davis when I had the third radiator built and this is what he recommends.
 
@J Mack it looks like my DC voltage readings are .2V and below which is considered normal for a system with a cast iron block. I don’t see any spikes during startup or running accessories.
 
Jim, did you have a current going thru your radiator, or they just not good enough for bouncing off rocks?
 
it looks like my DC voltage readings are .2V
Check AC too just so you know what it is.

Jim, did you have a current going thru your radiator, or they just not good enough for bouncing off rocks?
CBR makes radiators for off road race cars and I believe they have a reasonably good reputation in that arena, with that said Ron Davis made some changes to my current system for the better and I believe he has a better understanding of the function of the cooling system and not just a fabricator making cool parts.

I did add more grounds to my car just for good measure and so far everything is good.
 
Griffin response paraphrased: Pound Sand. 😡
 

Try some Moroso 35500 Ceramic Engine Seal and see if it stops it, nothing to lose at this point.​

 
Pulled the radiator today. I was also able to determine where the leak was. I might be lucky. It's on the top seam and is leaking around 3-4 cross flow tubes. I had some low temp aluminum rod and tried to float it on but could not get it to do what I wanted. The heat from trying seemed to seal things up though.

I've ordered some stic-tite to melt on since the stuff I had didn't work.

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16-18
 
This stuff is impressive. $23 for Stic-time from Amazon. After a couple of minutes of melting this on, I pressured things up to 18 lbs with no leaking. As I did some pressure testing after the first repair area, I found more areas where there was leaking. I ended up melting this along each entire side seam as future insurance.

I'm disappointed with the Griffin quality. At 6000 miles roughly 5-8 cross tubes developed leaks where they meet the side tanks. We will see how long the Stic-tite will last. I'm hoping my $23 purchase will avoid a $400 new radiator.😊

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A local illustration artist rendered my "raft gitter". Super cool. He has more renderings coming.

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Are these still available?
 
@J Mack what other grounds did you add, transmission and rear axle, to correct your problem.
Scraps,

For anything that pulls more than a couple amps I added a copper ground meaning wire to the battery or terminal block and no longer rely solely on the chassis ground.
 
Thanks Jim, I had to think for awhile, but I'm pretty sure everything that needs grounding (small stuff) is through a terminal block back to battery. I have to look, but I think the starter is grounded to the frame. As I'm typing this, there are things I know are body grounded coming to mind. This could turn into a large project.

Sorry Nick for the hijacking, but my Griffin rad. is leaking as is yours, so this might be something a lot of us need to do.
 
Thanks Jim, I had to think for awhile, but I'm pretty sure everything that needs grounding (small stuff) is through a terminal block back to battery. I have to look, but I think the starter is grounded to the frame. As I'm typing this, there are things I know are body grounded coming to mind. This could turn into a large project.

Sorry Nick for the hijacking, but my Griffin rad. is leaking as is yours, so this might be something a lot of us need to do.
No worries Ron, I ended up buying a new radiator as my leak repair didn't seal after all. I ended up going with the Champion this time because of warrant. I probably also need to do a little electrolysis prevention myself.

Radiator model: CC337B-DP
 

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