Another One!... 1994 FZJ80 LS/4L60E Swap (Budget, Hopefully) (1 Viewer)

[Racefiend]

Let's talk throttle bodies. The 2002 Yukon Denali XL that I started with as my base vehicle came as a Drive By Wire setup. I was originally going to retain that, I kept the pedal and control module off of the Yukon and was planning on running it that way. Then I started thinking about Cruise Control. Not a necessity for me, but I think it would be pretty sweet. I haven't worked out all the details on the cruise control yet, but another factor that led me to switch to DBC is less work on the pedal fab, and retaining the Toyota throttle cable, which for me is a rewarding dorky kind of thing when I can nearly perfectly clip the Toyota part right into the GM part. Like mixing up MegaBlox and Legos as a kid. I digress.

My dad actually had a DBC motor out of a 2002 suburban he is dropping in his 76 C10, but he wants to go DBW. It worked out perfectly that we just swapped throttle bodies and I gave him the DBW pedal and box. Dad's LS collection for the win .

In converting to DBC, you will need to make the following mods to your DBW harness and make sure you have the following DBC parts:

1) Need DBC Throttle Body
2) Need GM TPS sensor connector (I ordered a pigtail off Amazon and then ordered the Metri-Pack 150 terminals and 16-18 ga weather seals to repin it for a seamless harness) ICT Billet LS TPS Wire Pigtail -Throttle Position Sensor Connector - LS1 LSX Plug WPTPS30
3) Need GM IAC sensor connector (I ordered a pigtail off Amazon and then ordered the Metri-Pack 150 terminals and 16-18 ga weather seals to repin it for a seamless harness) ICT Billet LS IAC Wire Pigtail - Idle Air Control Valve Connector Compatible with LS1 LSX Plug WPIAC30
4) Misc wire- I have the Red/ Blue ECU with the right serial number to do this. You cannot do this with every ECU. Check out the LT1Swap.com website for all the dirty details of which ECUs are compatible, what terminals in your ECU to pin the wires to, wire colors, etc.
5) ECU needs to be re-programmed to recognize DBC functionality (LT1Swap.com also)

I ran these options through my head when planning my swap. I bought a DBC throttle body, but I ended up keeping the DBW as making the cruise control work was a requirement, and installing the pedal and control unit and harness isn't that much work. The cruise control computer on the FJ requires inputs from the original ECU to work, which it won't have. The GM ECU controls cruise control, you just need to provide it switch inputs. I'm working on a 92, so the CC switch works perfect. The original button configuration grounded 12v signals from the CC computer for the inputs. The GM ECU requires a 12v signal to the ECU, not grounds, which is provided by the ECU. So you just wire the CC signal output from the ECU to what used to be the ground side of the switch and send output on the other end to the ECU. The only problem for you is the switch changed in 93 from regular buttons that are just on/off to buttons that run through resistors. So instead of each button having an output, you have one output for all of the buttons, with varying voltage based on which button/resistor you pushed. If you get a 92 switch it will make things work perfectly.

 

[MMaxim]

I'm with thatcabledude. I wish it were so, but there's no way. The valve body hangs into the pan, so you really don't have any room to chop or "persuade" as they say. Definitely a smaller diameter driveshaft and a shallow pan, and I'm going to probably invest in some good bump stops so I make sure I don't flex the driveshaft up into it in extreme situations.

Thank you. Can't wait to get to solving that puzzle!

 

[GearGeek]

Busy weekend over here! Lots of updates. I'll keep saying it, some of this is specific to my application and preference, some is repetitive information from other peeps, but I am trying to be as comprehensive as possible for people needing help in the future.

1) Mounted a new power steering cooler! I had smashed the Toyota "paperclip" style one awhile back and replaced it with a super cheap OReilly generic small finned cooler. It was installed kind of poorly and didn't do a great job. I wanted something with AN fittings on it since I was ballin on a budget with all my AN lines everywhere else. I got this cooler from Amazon: Amazon product ASIN B085MCTN16
Mine didn't come with the lines, but it came with 10AN to 6AN adapters. Product description on that link has changed since I ordered. I made a bracket out of some aluminum angle to slide between trans cooler and radiator support, drilled and tapped for M8 bolts on the cooler side, and drilled and tapped the body to receive another bolt.

The Evil Energy AN fuel line kits from Amazon are good quality for the price to make the hose and fittings for the low pressure/ return side of the power steering box and pump. I used some high pressure AN line from Trail Gear to make the high pressure side.

To adapt the Toyota box to AN, I used a 16mm to 6AN threaded adapter on the high side, and a 17mm to 6AN threaded adapter on the low side. PSC is the only company that makes that 17mm size adapter. I ended up getting mine from Morris 4x4 because of stocking issues elsewhere. The 16mm fitting is easy to find on amazon. I also needed a 16mm to 6AN fitting for the high pressure side of the Chevy power steering pump. Evil Energy sells a 2 pack for about $12 on amazon. I should have called this the Amazon.com LS Swap thread haha.

https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/AF1QipORDc2gXQXdTZ4ewOmuNKcZRqNFQRPAxZR7ip0v

 

[GearGeek]

Warning: Fun stuff ahead.

ECU and Fuse Box mounting: I deleted the ABS from my truck during the swap process, which freed up quite a bit of space on the driver's side inner fender to mount things. I wanted to keep things as neat as possible, but still easy to work with. There's a lot going on right here between the brake lines/ brake master, fuel lines, steering, dual battery wiring I have in place already, Toyota fuse box. I pulled the ABS module, tucked its wires inside the fender, removed all the remaining parts of the bracket, removed the igniter and its bracket.

For the ECU mount, I wanted to do something custom. I am lucky to have a best friend that is an awesome welder, so I made all the pieces out of aluminum angle and box and cut it down and drilled some holes for some free speed. The ECU is a little shy of 3" wide, so I got some box tube with a 3" inside measurement and ordered some sorbothane rubber to cut down to pad it out a little bit to absorb any shock. I just cut some short aluminum tubing standoffs to level it out and bolted it through the fender.

 

[GearGeek]

For the fuse box, I used this random amazon one: Amazon product ASIN B07FL14QB3
It looked decent enough quality, was relatively compact, and most importantly, had the proper number of relay and fuse holders. It's really close to the same length as the toyota one, just wider, so it looks pretty factory sitting next to the Toyota one. I wanted an easy but effective way to mount it. I was digging through the scrap bin, and what do you know! There happened to be this bracket that was a battery hold down for an FJ40. And what do you know it was literally a perfect fit. Made a standoff that I'll bolt to the fender, all done. Cut the plastic mounting ears off the fuse box. Super clean. And it puts the fuse box in the correct location in relationship to the ECU so I don't have any splices in the harness.

 

[GearGeek]

Update on the DBW to DBC setup:


Parts Needed:
- ECU Pins: Amazon product ASIN B07K418K36- TPS connector: Amazon product ASIN B07HQZRPPL- IAC connector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HQYSKDB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Terminals for connectors: https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-GT-15...707530&sprefix=gt+150+terminals,aps,88&sr=8-5
- Weather Seals: https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-15324...1652707679&sprefix=gt150+seals,aps,65&sr=8-11
- Need Misc 18 GA Wire


I used the wiring diagrams for the DBC ECU from my same year. Using the LT1Swap website, I had already de-pinned everything from the DBW, so I was staring with a blank slate. This was my first time using wiring diagrams on a vehicle. I had designed and drafted rollercoaster and ride control systems in college, but it had been awhile. I work in construction and architecture, so I used my plans reading skills and figured out the electrical language. I had been pretty daunted by wiring up until this point. I had some pointers from some friends, but I recommend learning to read electrical schematics. It will make wiring way less scary haha.

I did some wiring color substitutions, since I didn't have all the striped wire options. For my ECU (Red/ Blue) C1=Blue side, C2=Red side.

TPS Pinout:
Red 24 to terminal C (DK BLU)
Blue 46 to terminal A (GRY)
Blue 54 to terminal B (BLK)

IAC Pinout:
Red 77 to terminal A (LT GRN/ BLK)
Red 76 to terminal B (LT GRN/ WHT)
Red 79 to terminal D (LT BLU/ WHT)
Red 78 to terminal C (LT BLU/ BLK)

I had my ECU flashed to run DBC when I deleted VATS and all. I have not tested yet, but I don't forsee any issues here. Hope this helps someone!

 

[GearGeek]

Bonus wiring harness pics:

 

[thatcabledude]

Does your engine have MLS head gaskets already, or did you swap them? I don’t remember if you mentioned this.

I can’t remember if the switch to mls from factory came in 2002 or 2003.

 

[GearGeek]

Does your engine have MLS head gaskets already, or did you swap them? I don’t remember if you mentioned this.

I can’t remember if the switch to mls from factory came in 2002 or 2003.

I am pretty sure they are MLS from what I can see poking out of the side. Engine had good compression, so I don't plan on doing anything with the heads.

 

[thatcabledude]

I am pretty sure they are MLS from what I can see poking out of the side. Engine had good compression, so I don't plan on doing anything with the heads.

10-4. Pretty sure that 2002 was the first year of MLS usage on the trucks/suvs so you’re on the clear then.

The non MLS gaskets from 99-01 will leak.

 

[GearGeek]

10-4. Pretty sure that 2002 was the first year of MLS usage on the trucks/suvs so you’re on the clear then.

The non MLS gaskets from 99-01 will leak.

10-4, I appreciate the help! Question for you, since reading your other threads you seem to have figured it out. I am having a difficult time figuring out what wires from the toyota harness to pull to make the AC compressor work. Your write up about the parts for the AC lines was spot on. Thanks!

 

[thatcabledude]

10-4, I appreciate the help! Question for you, since reading your other threads you seem to have figured it out. I am having a difficult time figuring out what wires from the toyota harness to pull to make the AC compressor work. Your write up about the parts for the AC lines was spot on. Thanks!

Just the one wire that goes to the Toyota compressor. Put it plus a ground wire that you can ground wherever you like in the appropriate 2pin weatherpack connector and plug ‘er in.

If my memory serves me correct, this wire was bundled with the wire that went to the Toyota oil pressure sensor. There’s some wires that go to a pressure sensor behind the driver side headlight, but you won’t be touching those whatsoever. They are separate from the engine harness.

 

[GearGeek]

The end is in sight! Over the past week or so, Matt helped me fab up my exhaust. There weren't great photos of anyone else's, so I am not sure what others have done. I was down to two option: 1) run it over the bell housing from the drivers side and tie into the passenger side, or 2) run back down the frame rail and cross over between the trans and transfer case, and over the driveshaft. We ended up goin the latter route. We tied into the existing stainless exhaust my brother had made a few years ago, basically a 3'ish straight piece in front of the muffler. Put a V band over the DS to help get everything in and out easier.

 

[GearGeek]

Tear down time! I wish I would have cleaned and pressure washed everything before getting into the meat of the swap, as it would have made things a lot cleaner through the process. But I was too excited to get going! Pulled everything out, Matt finish welded the motor mount brackets for me, because again, a welder I am not. Pressure washed and painted everything with some satin chassis black. I think she cleaned up pretty good. These mounts worked awesome. hit up @cruisermatt or check out his website, cruisermatts.com, to pick some up. They are all laser cut and everything fit really nicely.

 

[GearGeek]

Got the block back in and mated to the transmission and started bolting accessories on. Once I knew where everything was going to sit, we could start making brake lines. I had deleted the ABS module earlier in the swap process to free up space for the ECU and improve braking performance. I also deleted the LSPV. All of my brake lines were in a pretty questionable state due to this being originally an Indiana/ Kentucky truck prior to my bringing it down to Florida. I had changed out the rear soft hoses when I bought the truck, but because of how rusty everything was, I couldn't change the front hoses and they were in a pretty dismal state. I am fairly certain these were the original soft hoses on the front. Since there was no more ABS to worry about, we ordered the hard brake lines for the front axle from a 91/92. Those fit like a glove and deleted one of the front axle to frame front hoses. I took a bracket I didn't need anymore, cut it down, and filed out the round shape until it matched the hexagonal shape for this end of the soft line. It had a nice little tab already on it that got plug welded to the frame right above the steering box crossmember. New hard line got made here and used the existing block, where I kept the original hard line that ran up to the master cylinder.

Added a manual proportioning valve here mounted to the shock tower using an existing threaded hole. Matt helped me wed together an M8 and an M6 bolt, head to head to make a stud. This threaded into that hole in the shock tower, the bolt heads were a good thickness to make a little standoff for the proportioning valve, and then just secured with a flanged nut. A short existing hard line got reflared to go from the valve to another block that runs to the back brakes.

 

[GearGeek]

The rear axle got new brake lines also. Made a super long line to run down the frame, used a union to attach to the new line at the frame you see in the picture that runs over the upper link bracket, and then we accidentally ordered parts for the drum brake rear, but it was so close, that we just bent everything to where it needed to go, trimmed the line down, and reflared it.

Back to the fronts, I am pretty sure my front drivers caliper was hanging up a little bit, so the front got new calipers, pads, and rotors. I had done the rears about a year or so ago and did new soft hoses back there, and all was still looking good, so no need to mess with that. While I was in the front, repacked the wheel bearings for good measure.

I also used the WitsEnd ABS delete kit. I could have just left the sensors, but I figured since I had taken the time to remove the wiring really nicely and all, I would remove the sensors also. I also like that in the front, there is a little grease fitting for greasing the knuckles just as a little maintenance item. You will need a slightly longer bolt because of the difference in thickness between the sensor bracket and the delete plug, just don't go too long, the axle is in there haha.

 

[GearGeek]

A lot has happened since the last post in the thread! Swap was completed a few weeks ago, had about 2 weeks of troubleshooting before GSMTR. I can go into that later in the thread, but it had everything to do with a set of 300k mile fuel injectors. Truck went up to GSMTR, I drove from Florida to Oliver Springs, TN, wheeled for the week, and drove home. Did 85 or so up, 70ish back with the boys . About 1700 miles total including the wheeling and driving around up there. It was a blast!

The only issue I had with my truck up there had nothing to do with the swap. Did you know Toyota keys aren't supposed to look like sheet metal chopsticks??? I couldn't turn my ignition. After several hours of fiddling with the steering wheel and trying to turn the key by many involved, a lower dash tear down and some ingenuity from @White Sheep , and some more fiddling, we determined my key was too worn down. Fox Toyota in Clinton was awesome, their parts department was able to cut me a new key from my VIN and all issues were solved. As of today, I need to finish the Park/ NSS wiring to have dash indicators and reverse lights. I also need to add a zip tie to keep my steam port vent tube out of the fan, and that's it!

Enjoy some Windrock/ GSMTR photos, including some of @cruisermatt doing some CruiserMatt things in his bone stock 40 series (okay there are 29" Super Swampers). It was awesome meeting everyone, seeing all the awesome trucks, and I will definitely be going back. Can't wait to see @White Sheep 6.2l LS swap in the coming months!

Now back to the rest of the build info!

 

[White Sheep]

I got your thread now. Sub'd

 

[GearGeek]

Hot topic: Air Conditioning (Pun Intended) and Heater Lines

I used a lot of the info from @thatcabledude to get me started with parts information. I was glad he recommended Cold Hose Supply in Ocala, Florida in his thread. After checking around locally (Orlando, FL, for me), nowhere had all of the parts I needed. I called Cold Hose, and not only were they knowledgeable and helpful, I had all of my parts the next day, and I did not pay for overnight shipping! Pretty awesome.

From there I edited what we actually used, and Matt put his spin on things with a weld on fitting from OReilly.

Parts I used:

# 8 90 Degree O-ring Fitting R-134a 16mm Discharge Port (Cold Hose)
# 10 45 Degree O-ring Fitting R-134a 13mm Suction Port (Cold Hose)
# 10 (1/2") Standard Barrier A/C Hose (Ordered 3') (Cold Hose)
# 8 (13/32") Standard Barrier A/C Hose (Ordered 3') (Cold Hose)
Weld on fitting from O'Reilly at the firewall that I can't find the part number for right now (Will update later)
14.5MM Tube to #10 Hose Straight Compression Fitting (Cold Hose)
12mm Tube to #8 Hose Straight Compression Fitting (Cold Hose)
LS Swap AC Compressor adapter fittings for Denso 10S17F & 10S20F (Ebay)

Electrical Parts Needed:

ACDelco PT209 Pigtail
Misc Wire (18 ga)
Misc Heat Shrink
Metri-Pack 150 Terminal (Female, 16-20 ga)
(2) GM/ Delphi/ Packard Weather seal (16-20 ga)
Ring terminal, crimp on style
Tesa Tape
Misc loom

I found the AC control wire that runs along the passenger side inner fender (same group of wires as oil temp sensor, washer fluid bottle). Toyota uses a single wire for AC control, whereas GM needs a ground also. I cut the Toyota end off and crimped on the terminal for the GM connector. I took a length of wire that was long enough to reach the body of the compressor and crimped a terminal on there also. clicked those into the GM connector and plugged it in. Slid some heat shrink onto the ground side and crimped on a ring terminal with an opening appropriate to fit under one of the compressor bolts. Shrunk da shrink, and wrapped that wire in tesa tape, loomed the other wire, wrapped the loom ends with tesa. I apologize for the dirty truck pictures. I took these after the fact.

For the AC hoses themselves, it is pretty straight forward. Use the LS Swap Adapters on the compressor, Put on the high and low side fittings, cut the Toyota hoses at the fire wall, and cut and crimp hoses and install the compression fittings where they fit. Search LS Swap AC and look for thatcabledude's thread if you have more specific questions. He recommends a great crimping tool too.

Took it up to my local AC shop, they vacuumed down and filled with refrigerant. Turns on just like factory, blows cold af. Only thing as I do not have the motor idling up when AC is running so it is a bit taxing on the compressor at idle. I am just mindful in traffic and wheeling.

 

[GearGeek]

For the heater lines, I took this opportunity to delete the rear heat since I have a drawer system I am building back there anyways. A little junkyard visit netted me an excellent solution off of a Sequoia. I just trimmed this hose and attached to the heater valve. Used 2 Dayco 80407 hoses (They have a 90 molded on one end to make install clean), a 5/8" to 3/4" adapter from ICT Billet, a 5/8" to 3/4" 90* molded adapter, and some miscellaneous hose clamps (I went OEM Toyota for the factory look and some bonus points where I could). All works as intended, just no rear heat now.