"New" NoVa FJ40 Owner and Mud Member - '78 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 21, 2021
Threads
19
Messages
238
Location
virginia
This is somewhat of a repost over from the main forum, but I thought I would introduce myself and the truck- definitely seeking knowledge of local fabrication and restoration resources.

Bought this locally off the FB marketplace in Winchester late last year. I have had very little time to put into it, unfortunately. All that I have done to date is replace the wheels and tires that came with it with factory toyota steel wheels with new MTs, fluids, remove flares, start wheeling off and stabilizing exposed rust, and buy some small parts. Starts a bit hard but runs great and is happy at highway speeds with the 5 spd

YeRQeOm.jpg


Lot going on with it:

- OME lift
- H55F swap- has 60 series top cover
- 2f motor
- A/C added
- Power steering added
- ARB onboard air and rear locker
- Front bumper brackets chopped
- Corkscrew park brake
- Interior bedlined
- Sound system (BT with trans hump speakers and 12" sub)... will remove this
- Spare carrier removed
- Not original color- data plate and some original paint hiding under grommets shows it was Olive Green.
- Aftermarket distributor
- Aftermarket carb
- Windshield washer removed


Downsides are that I have found some bondo on the body panels, it was chopped for flares, and as I got more aggressive wheeling rust I came through the leading edge of the hood in a couple places. Also needs the PS pump rebuilt and a new oil pan.

I would like to more or less restore this to what it would have looked like while retaining the lift, H55F, PS. I can do the mechanical work, but am not set up to media blast, weld, or paint and would have to outsource at least the body work.

Recommendations for local or semi-local shops that specialize in these rigs are welcome.

Thanks
 

WELCOME to MUD ........

and our proud : Capital Land Cruiser Club .......... :cool:






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tysons toyota white land cruiuser - Copy - Copy.jpg
 
First thing I'd like to sort out...

Know anyone would could either fabricate and thread a similar lever onto the H55f shifter base, or use the donor 4spd lever?

The 55 shifter is too sharply angled and I would prefer the original look while also having the tuffy console in the way.

5AmEy6I.jpg
 
First thing I'd like to sort out...

Know anyone would could either fabricate and thread a similar lever onto the H55f shifter base, or use the donor 4spd lever?

The 55 shifter is too sharply angled and I would prefer the original look while also having the tuffy console in the way.

5AmEy6I.jpg
Cut and weld the 4speed shifter to the H55 base. Easy peasy
Oh, and, welcome.
 
You need the bottom bit from the 5 speed shifter. The older shifters won't engage it correctly. Ideally what you need is a 40 Series top plate. Good luck in finding one though.

Yes. Truck came with the 4spd shifter that was just ratting around with ~3" of play. Not sure how long the PO was running like that. I bought the 5 spd shifter, which feels like it should but the conversion puts the shifter pretty far back.

Are you taking work currently?

Ugh, I can tell you that hitting your Big Gulp cup in the Tuffy console holder going into 2nd and 4th (4-spd) sucks.

It's worse than that. Still hits the seat in 2nd with the seat all the way back and anything in the cup holder.

gZGQHqY.jpg


Cut and weld the 4speed shifter to the H55 base. Easy peasy
Oh, and, welcome.

More and more looking like this is what it will be. Any local shops you'd recommend?

Thanks

Under the hood:

tCn38MZ.jpg
 
Yes. Truck came with the 4spd shifter that was just ratting around with ~3" of play. Not sure how long the PO was running like that. I bought the 5 spd shifter, which feels like it should but the conversion puts the shifter pretty far back.

Are you taking work currently?



It's worse than that. Still hits the seat in 2nd with the seat all the way back and anything in the cup holder.

gZGQHqY.jpg




More and more looking like this is what it will be. Any local shops you'd recommend?

Thanks

Under the hood:

tCn38MZ.jpg
You are already talking to the only shop local I would recommend.
@OTRAMM.....and WELCOME,nice to see another 40 guy
 
First thing I'd like to sort out...

Know anyone would could either fabricate and thread a similar lever onto the H55f shifter base, or use the donor 4spd lever?

The 55 shifter is too sharply angled and I would prefer the original look while also having the tuffy console in the way.

5AmEy6I.jpg

Welcome to the club! It is a great one.

Could you heat and bend the 5-speed shifter?
 
welcome to the CLCC! Finally there's a new member to take over the role of FNG; I humbly hand you this crown, lol. Good luck with your projects and I hope to meet you on the trail someday. :)
 
Where was this cruiser from ? Looks like ac but no factory heat

PO bought it from a Florida owner in Miami/Homestead area. The A/C is not factory- it is a vintageair 75080-LTZ-A. The heater has evidently been deleted.


Welcome to the club! It is a great one.

Could you heat and bend the 5-speed shifter?

I suppose I could with better equipment. Pipe torch and cheater aren't doing it without the rubber liner between the inner rod and outer sleeve starting to melt. Might as well have it done all the way at this point.

welcome to the CLCC! Finally there's a new member to take over the role of FNG; I humbly hand you this crown, lol. Good luck with your projects and I hope to meet you on the trail someday. :)

Likewise. This is going to move slowly as time is hard to come by.
 
Welcome! Nice 40!

You should bring it to a new or our tech day in June. Let us spend some of your money on it.

You run the risk of burning the rubber out of the 5 speed shifter heating it up. I’m with @CondeCruiser cut both weld them together keep the original look and feel.

Loose the Weber carb. Get a Toyota carb and rebuild it. With a carb it will have a sequence to start it. You can go Sniper turn the key and it starts!
 
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Welcome! Nice 40!

You should bring it to a new or our tech day in June. Let us spend some of your money on it.

You run the risk of burning the rubber out of the 5 speed shifter heating it up. I’m with @CondeCruiser cut both weld them together keep the original look and feel.

Loose the Weber carb. Get a Toyota carb and rebuild it. With a carb it will have a sequence to start it. You can go Sniper turn the key and it starts!

When in June? I'll be out through the 13th or 14th for work, but back around after that.

I wish it was a weber; not even that... looks like am EMPI knock off weber. No manual choke on this one- electric auto choke on this carb sort of works, but it starts hard. I'd rather have a toyo carb, airbox, and manual choke if it will fit around the PS pump.
 
When in June? I'll be out through the 13th or 14th for work, but back around after that.

I wish it was a weber; not even that... looks like am EMPI knock off weber. No manual choke on this one- electric auto choke on this carb sort of works, but it starts hard. I'd rather have a toyo carb, airbox, and manual choke if it will fit around the PS pump.
Not sure the date yet either 18th or 25thth there is a poll up on another thread. This is the best place to stay up to date with club activities.

A Toyota carb and stock 78 air cleaner will fit. With that steering pump. It is similar to my setup. I have a carb needs rebuilt may have an air cleaner I will have to look in my stash.
 
Not sure the date yet either 18th or 25thth there is a poll up on another thread. This is the best place to stay up to date with club activities.

A Toyota carb and stock 78 air cleaner will fit. With that steering pump. It is similar to my setup. I have a carb needs rebuilt may have an air cleaner I will have to look in my stash.

I'd be interested depending on what you've got; I'd rather have a stock setup with manual choke. As least I know what it is doing...

Just a couple updates in the world's slowest restoration (have been driving it in the mean time):

Pulled the woofer/BT audio system and removing the vintageair A/C.

Taking it in two weeks to a local fab shop to have the H55 shifter redone to look like a stock 4spd and bumper brackets riveted/welded on.

All oils changed. Front diff and transmission were low (I should have done these sooner- I normally baseline used vehicles by replacing all fluids, spark plugs, etc, but did not in this case. Lot of yellow in the trans oil and metal flake on the magnets.

Regarding the T-case, is the rust-colored 24mm plug center left on the vertical diff face in the below image is the fill plug?
n8capQ9.jpg


Asking because it seems like it would be, but quite a lot of oil came out when it was opened. The transmission was low, so thinking that if it is the fill plug, I have oil migrating between the trans and t-case.
 
That is exactly what is happening. Years ago, we used to run a run that went between the fill plugs. Now, you’d likely replace the seal between them and rebuild the case at the same time. Oh, and you might as well do a 5 speed conversion. Oh - and maybe a sniper conversion (it’s a slippery slope)
 
There's a guy on here in the Small Business Store Front classifieds section that sells the hoses for between the transmission and transfer case. It's a band aid but would work until you're ready to have them pulled and the seal between them replaced.
 
That is exactly what is happening. Years ago, we used to run a run that went between the fill plugs. Now, you’d likely replace the seal between them and rebuild the case at the same time. Oh, and you might as well do a 5 speed conversion. Oh - and maybe a sniper conversion (it’s a slippery slope)

It already is a 5 speed conversion (H55F).

Assuming "yes" on the fill plug location? I'll probably just end up filling the T case with the same GL4 that went into the trans.

I will pull the transmission when the sheet metal/paint work is done. Need a new rear main seal anyway.
 

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