Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (2 Viewers)

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I'm sorry but I really have no words for this.

Possibly..... had you come here BEFORE you "went to town on it" we might have come up with a solution for you.

Good luck Sir.
 
Not sure what tools you have available, but I might try to weld a nut to the end of the shaft and fashion some sort of puller. Looks kinda difficult at this point though. You could also possibly pound it through and remove the pieces through the flywheel inspection cover, but that seems pretty high stakes and might damage the flywheel depending on how far it needs to move before it's free.
 
You may have already done this (hard to tell what the liquid is in the valley), but I'd start with spraying both sides of the starter/block interface with Kroil or PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or some sort of penetrating oil. As you know, that starter nose should have just pulled out of the hole in the block with no effort at all, so clearly there's some sort of corrosion in the connecting space. If you can get that unlocked, there appears to be enough of the starter left to get that out.
 
Same thing happened to me. I ended up using a Dremel to make a cut through on either side and pulled the pieces out.

The hard part was not letting any pieces fall into the flywheel bellhousing or cutting into the block. There is an inspection cover underneath to check the bellhousing for any missing pieces.
 
So here's one for the starter gods...

All the bolts were out and I couldn't get the starter out. I went to town on it with a mallet. Genius idea to be sure.:doh:

Does anyone have any recommendations on how to remedy this situation? My thought was to start with a heat gun and MAYBE escalate to a blow torch. With all those liquids and having had a small amount of gas leak while removing the intake, I'm very hesitant.

*edit* just sprayed some PB...

Thanks...

View attachment 3006223
I'd start by blocking intake ports of head with tape, to seal fumes in and dirt out. Tie up plastic out of the way. Use a little heat may help. PB is the worst IMHO. I'd use Seafoam or Kano AeroKroil and keep adding for days.

I'd either drill or Dremel out a gap on each side. Then start with chisel, busting out chunk. Or just start with chisel. If you get lucky it will break loose. If not keep busting out and may need to drill or Dremel out remaining.

As @BLC said. Care must be taken to keep pieces from falling in, and or get all out from flex plate and bell housing.

Take your time and go easy only hitting on, drilling or grinding on starter. Stay clear of block.
 
Thanks for the responses everyone. I've been using PB and a heat gun at this point to avoid igniting anything. I'll try some Seafoam as well as what you've all suggested. Maybe use the blow torch after degreasing and taping holes like @2001LC suggested.

I grabbed a dremel and some "EZ406" wheels to try.

Flex Plate and Bell housing are going to be my next step to investigate, while the magnet tool and boroscope are great, the ball bearings came out one at a time and I can only hope none fell into the flywheel area.

Thanks!

IMG_20220511_172238.jpg
 
Once you have everything removed, I would rotate the engine by hand with the inspection plate open to make sure nothing else is stuck up in the flex plate area. It may be slightly difficult to rotate the engine with the spark plugs in, just as a heads up.
 
Once you have everything removed, I would rotate the engine by hand with the inspection plate open to make sure nothing else is stuck up in the flex plate area. It may be slightly difficult to rotate the engine with the spark plugs in, just as a heads up.
That's a great idea. As for the easiest way to do that, would I remove the timing belt cover and turn a crank shaft sprocket?
 
That's a great idea. As for the easiest way to do that, would I remove the timing belt cover and turn a crank shaft sprocket?
No need to remove any covers, everything is removed in the picture below since I was rebuilding the engine. You can just put a socket on the crank bolt (red arrow) and turn the engine over. I would probably pull the accessory belt to make things spin a little easier.

Crank Bolt.jpg
 
Thanks for the responses everyone. I've been using PB and a heat gun at this point to avoid igniting anything. I'll try some Seafoam as well as what you've all suggested. Maybe use the blow torch after degreasing and taping holes like @2001LC suggested.

I grabbed a dremel and some "EZ406" wheels to try.

Flex Plate and Bell housing are going to be my next step to investigate, while the magnet tool and boroscope are great, the ball bearings came out one at a time and I can only hope none fell into the flywheel area.

Thanks!

View attachment 3006849
NO not a blow torch. Start with heat gun, heat and cool with penetrating oil. This "cooling with P oil" helps draw in the P oil. Then move up to small plumbers torch, if still stuck. Best to not get red hot. Have fire extinguish on hand.

Heat, cool w/PB, soak, let stand. Tap on next day. repeat , repeat & repeat. After 3 day no go. Then start busting & grinding out.
 
NO not a blow torch. Start with heat gun, heat and cool with penetrating oil. This "cooling with P oil" helps draw in the P oil. Then move up to small plumbers torch, if still stuck. Best to not get red hot. Have fire extinguish on hand.

Heat, cool w/PB, soak, let stand. Tap on next day. repeat , repeat & repeat. After 3 day no go. Then start busting & grinding out.
That may be obvious info to you but I really appreciate you sharing that. Would you consider this a blow torch or small plumbers torch?
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I also managed to knock the knock sensor which was very brittle. I need order that part now anyway so the extra days of soaking won't be an issue. =)

I think I know the answer, but In your experience, is the brand of knock sensors ( PN 89615-22030 I think) critically important to stick with Denso/Toyota or would a auto parts store equivalent be fine?

Thank you again for your response.
 
That may be obvious info to you but I really appreciate you sharing that. Would you consider this a blow torch or small plumbers torch?
View attachment 3007006

I also managed to knock the knock sensor which was very brittle. I need order that part now anyway so the extra days of soaking won't be an issue. =)

I think I know the answer, but In your experience, is the brand of knock sensors ( PN 89615-22030 I think) critically important to stick with Denso/Toyota or would a auto parts store equivalent be fine?

Thank you again for your response.
Plumbers! I use MAPP gas, keep fame small.

I go with OEM.
 
Alright I finally got the nose of the old starter out. Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I tried a lot of things but the winning combo I used AFTER the starter broke off was:

* Heat with MAP-Pro torch and apply "Liquid Wrench" (I did this twice a day, 4 days in a row. I used PB for the first three and Liquid Wrench the night before I got it out).
* Dremel to make notches/cuts[
* Chisel and mallet.
* Came out in pieces.

Eventually was able to get it to rotate once I had made a crack all the way through the part and pulled it out.

I'm attaching photos in case anyone else runs into this nightmare. Patience is key.

IMG_20220511_172238.jpg


IMG_20220518_133338.jpg


IMG_20220518_134142.jpg


IMG_20220518_134857.jpg
 
Also, in addition to vacuuming out the hole for the starter, I'd really like to clear out any debris that may have fallen where the fly wheel is (bell housing?).

Besides just looking under the cover (I'm assuming the bottom of the car somewhere), can I safely flush this with anything? Water seems like a TERRIBLE idea.
 
Also, in addition to vacuuming out the hole for the starter, I'd really like to clear out any debris that may have fallen where the fly wheel is (bell housing?).

Besides just looking under the cover (I'm assuming the bottom of the car somewhere), can I safely flush this with anything? Water seems like a TERRIBLE idea.
You can use water. The drain holes in valley below and to each side of starter, are water drain holes. You can also turn the crank shaft, with a socket wrench from front.

BTW: My final step before place the new intake manifold gasket in place white tip up and out. Is to vacuum out every spec of dust, out from intake port of heads.
 
For posterity's sake, the same thing happened to me. Here's my thread in it and how I fixed it.

 
Well we finally got it. The stud was bent so we just removed it and have another one on the way. After finally getting the starter out it seems like it was l for nothing! I took it to get tested and they said it engages but is really low voltage. My problem originally is that I turned the key and nothing happened. The lights and accessories came on but that's it. No crank, no noise, nothing. It is moving fuel, so its not that. All the fuses have power, so that's why we thought maybe the starter. So if anyone has an idea I'm all ears! I'm going to get the alternator checked tomorrow. Unfortunately it seems like some electrical problem that isn't going to be easy to find.

Was it the starter or something else? Curious what you found out.

Mine did the same thing to me today, no crank but all the power was still there and voltage is fine. Just nothing when turning key, not even a click on the starter.
 
Yeah it was definitely the starter. It's definitely not a fun job, but it's doable. Even though it had some voltage as soon as I put the new one in it fired right up. Feel free to ask questions if you do it yourself. It's been a little while but I can try and remember some tips.
 
Does anyone have an extra starter connector (90980-11400) that they would be willing to sell me?

I've got one ordered from my local dealer but it is on backorder.

I'll pay you for yours and mail you another one once my order comes in...

Thanks in advance.
 
Does anyone have an extra starter connector (90980-11400) that they would be willing to sell me?

I've got one ordered from my local dealer but it is on backorder.

I'll pay you for yours and mail you another one once my order comes in...

Thanks in advance.
 

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