PHH OEM style close up pics (1 Viewer)

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I don’t know how he got that little flare nut wrench on it. I have a snap on and I was afraid of dropping it into the abyss back there. I’m laying on my stomach with my make-shift platform on top of my engine and couldn’t get leverage, until Amazon dropped that wrench off and got it off, problem was I broke the bolt but who cares, since some instructions are to break the bottom bracket with the bolt attached.
 
Ha so when i did that job i got the bottom bolt off first and was looking for the hard bolt only to find i had my hand on the top bolt covering it up and had already gotten the hard one off. Didn't bother putting the lower bolt back on but didn't have to break the bracket either. Attached is the ratchet that makes that bolt easy to remove

image_12891.jpg


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Lower radiator hose leak 🙄

I know this issue has been beaten to death but I don’t see an answer to my specific issue. I replaced the lower hose recently after taking the radiator out for front oil seal and crank seal etc for baseline. I cleaned out the radiator but was careful not to damage it taking out, cleaning...
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Chris FJ80 said:
6. The heater inlet hose was making the wrenching difficult, and I wanted to replace this short hose anyway, so removed it.
View attachment 942069


7. Here is a close up of that PITA lower bolt. You can see where the corners started to round off.
View attachment 942070


8. Here are an assortment of pliers and wrenches that came in handy. Note the hose pliers form harbor freight. Useful for removing hoses, but when I tried to use them to get the PHH hose onto the engine nipple I caused some damage to the hose, so had to cut a new piece and start over, using only my hands this time.
View attachment 942071


9. The heater bypass valve assembly / pieces.
View attachment 942072


10. The PHH pieces: tube, hose remnants, clamps, and mounting bolts. Note the lower bolt with the string wrapped around it. I lassoed the bolt before it came all the way out so I did not have it dropping down into the black hole.
View attachment 942073

(continued)
Click to expand...
Does the metal tube in picture 10 have to come out for this job or can it stay in, and maybe be moved over to the side? Also, does the HCV have to be disconnected to be able to move the tube and fit the PHH, or can you do the whole job while scrunched up in the wheelwhelll?

Also can anyone confirm the bracket that was suggested to break by jiggling it with pliers in the lower bracket on the tube in Pic 10?

Finally, I'm wondering which of the tools in picture 8 would be considered absolutely essential for the job, if not all of them. Any other tools that'd come in handy?

Thanks, I'd appreciate anyone's insight.
 
See my post above concerning the tool you need to get that hard tube out. Yes you have to remove that tube and it is the lower bracket on that tube next to the bolt with the string that people are snapping off. You don't have to and the tool i posted a picture of takes that off very easily. Also you don't have to put that bolt back in if you don't want to. As far as the HCV. Don't make your life harder than it needs to be. Remove it and make some space. Replace it of it needs it too.

For me the hardest part was getting the hose to slide on to the side of the head in the fender well. Everything else was gravy.

Might be able to do everything from above if you take the brake booster out!! Haha j/k
 
Adding this link to the thread, might help but it's all about the same,
just a few different photos/words/observations maybe.


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Pesky Heater Hose (PHH) and that Pesky Bottom Bolt (PBB)

Been discussed a lot in the past, just wanted to share some new photos what to expect for those who haven't done the Pesky Heater Hose (PHH) repair yet. This is not meant to be a step-by-step how to do it thread, just a few tips and thoughts. (If anyone wants to skip the backstory scroll ahead...
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clx16 said:
See my post above concerning the tool you need to get that hard tube out. Yes you have to remove that tube and it is the lower bracket on that tube next to the bolt with the string that people are snapping off. You don't have to and the tool i posted a picture of takes that off very easily. Also you don't have to put that bolt back in if you don't want to. As far as the HCV. Don't make your life harder than it needs to be. Remove it and make some space. Replace it of it needs it too.

For me the hardest part was getting the hose to slide on to the side of the head in the fender well. Everything else was gravy.

Might be able to do everything from above if you take the brake booster out!! Haha j/k
Click to expand...
Too bad I didn't think of this when I was replacing my booster! I'm not sure if my PHH is actually leaking or when if ever it was replaced, but I've been noticng some coolant loss in the radiator in the past few days: at least some of it appears to be going into the overflow reservoir. I also got another rad cap from NAPA and plan to replace the tstat/gasket as well. I already replaced the HCV and the firewall hoses up top.

I heard you can bend the tube back and slide in the hose, but does that make the job a lot harder than it has to be? I'm also considering bypassing it all with Gates hose, but there seems to be mixed opinions on that.
 
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I ordered this part for the PHH. Do I have to replace the tube assembly as well, or just bend the tube back and insert the hose?

Also, can anyone confirm the PHH is the only hose not included in the Curved Hose and Little Hose kits sold by @NLXTACY


1651448003478.png
 
Ozark80 said:
Too bad I didn't think of this when I was replacing my booster! I'm not sure if my PHH is actually leaking or when if ever it was replaced, but I've been noticng some coolant loss in the radiator in the past few days: at least some of it appears to be going into the overflow reservoir. I also got another rad cap from NAPA and plan to replace the tstat/gasket as well. I already replaced the HCV and the firewall hoses up top.

I heard you can bend the tube back and slide in the hose, but does that make the job a lot harder than it has to be? I'm also considering bypassing it all with Gates hose, but there seems to be mixed opinions on that.
Click to expand...

been awhile but irc… you run the bypass, you loose your rear heat.
Some don’t use it, but I use mine.

here’s a tip: look up from the wheel well at the phh. Looks all turd like and ugly. Well with your bare hands and the engine cold, put your hand on it and see if you can pull it away from the engine block. my hose was so compromised that the clamp didn’t mean or do squat at that point and I was able to just pull it off. Don’t bother trying to put some small pliers and trying to pinch the clamp to remove it.
 
lp2k said:
been awhile but irc… you run the bypass, you loose your rear heat.
Some don’t use it, but I use mine.

here’s a tip: look up from the wheel well at the phh. Looks all turd like and ugly. Well with your bare hands and the engine cold, put your hand on it and see if you can pull it away from the engine block. my hose was so compromised that the clamp didn’t mean or do squat at that point and I was able to just pull it off. Don’t bother trying to put some small pliers and trying to pinch the clamp to remove it.
Click to expand...
Did you remove and/or replace the metal tube assembly as well, or just slipped in the new hose? Sorry if you already mentioned it somewhere.
 
No I had removed the metal hose but the phh hose and the clamp on the end remained.

I was sticking all kinds of pliers up there but my XL hands were not making any progress. I was having a few beers and said F it and just pulled the hose off with the clamp still on it. It didn’t even give me much of a fight as I just pulled it off and the clamp was still on it
 
Are these the right clamps for the PHH? I asked about constant tension clamps but the guys at NAPA didn’t seem to know what I was talking about. Just trying to minimise the peskiness.

1F963B75-37D1-40B6-AEDD-75D567DEB8F1.jpeg
 
Not sure, usually when it starts to bulge and doesn't leak anymore lol

But seriously I've used that standard style a lot and they work fine. I'm sure someone will chime in on why not to use them in this case
 
IMHO I would not use the worm screw type clamps unless it's an emergency; they will loosen up. You want some type of contant torque clamp, the OEM toyota spring clamps work or some people use Breeze brand constant torque clamps. Wits End sells them with a section of Gates Greenstripe hose. If you look for them locally be careful, many stores sell a made in C C P Chynna knock off. Breeze clamps are made in USA. There are other types of clamps but the ones mentioned are more commonly used. FWIW
 
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what @bhsdriller says. not ideal but will work. Mine always leak when i use those, and when i get them tight enough, they are damaging the hose and or about to fail completely.

Put the crappy clamps in places that are easy to get to. Spend the money on the good ones for the hard to reach areas.
 
Ozark80 said:
Are these the right clamps for the PHH? I asked about constant tension clamps but the guys at NAPA didn’t seem to know what I was talking about. Just trying to minimise the peskiness.

View attachment 3005500
Click to expand...
Those are ideal. For your garden hose.
 
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