Just get her drivable (2 Viewers)

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Needle = rotor?

Have the rotor pointed at # 5 spark plug when engine is at TDC compression at cylinder 1?

I'd still need to have the #1 spark plug wire over the rotor, regardless of what plug the rotor is pointed at, correct?

I've re-seated the dizzy 25 times trying to get everything lined up, however its either too low to too high and the hold down bolt won't go back in. The way I had it was a compromise, which in my mind would cause the timing to be a few degrees off, but not enough to basically have 0 horsepower and overheat.

Plugs are OK, have 500 miles on them at most, but they are a bit white from running lean it appears, which I think is the underlying issue to all my problems.
 
So pulled the distributor and reset it per FSM directions. No change. Cranks and idles great but under load it backfires through the TBI and has 0 horsepower and overheats quickly.

NEED SOME AFI knowledge: HOWEVER, I did not disconnect the 'timing set wire' while setting timing. By not doing this, Norm at AFI believes my timing is WAY off. This wire is supposedly coming out of the harness near the distributor. I don't see a wire marked for that, nor know the color. Any tips on finding that wire?

There are 3 wires running to the ECM controlled distributor....a tach read signal (for a standalone tach), 12V in, and another wire. I guess its the 'other' wire?

Thanks
 
Is the MAF in the throttle body on AFI?
Does that system have an OBD2 port or a way to view your fuel trims?
The symptoms sound like it cant monitor your air intake.
 
Megadoomer said:
Is the MAF in the throttle body on AFI?
Does that system have an OBD2 port or a way to view your fuel trims?
The symptoms sound like it cant monitor your air intake.
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Man you need to rip all that s*** off and get a Sniper. Really. I fought mine forever and it was never right.
 
Since your winging timing anyway, why not play with the distributor by turning it one direction or another with some throttle applied? If it clears your backfire, keep adjusting. If it doesn't, throw it away.
 
NikP said:
Since your winging timing anyway, why not play with the distributor by turning it one direction or another with some throttle applied? If it clears your backfire, keep adjusting. If it doesn't, throw it away.
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As you suggested earlier, he needs to set base/initial timing on the distributor with it DISCONNECTED from the computer. If AFI cannot tell you which color wire from the distributor controls the electronic advance, I'd have some choice words to share with them. On my V* FJ40 with electronically controlled distributor (no vacuum) base/initial timing must be set with the dist disconnected from the computer.
 
This is the generic info from AFI's install instructions:

If you have installed a new distributor or manifold, you will need to set the timing. This is accomplished by disconnecting the single lead wire electrical connector breaking out of the harness near the distributor. With this wire disconnected, set your timing to “0” deg. for most applications. Big Block installations should have the initial timing set to “6” deg. BTDC. The ECM does all of the timing for you and uses the reference of “0” or “6” degrees to properly deliver the correct spark angle. With the set timing wire disconnected, your check engine light will illuminate and set a code “42” EST malfunction. After the timing has been properly set, reconnect the single lead wire and turn the vehicle ignition off. Wait for at least 10 seconds and restart the vehicle. The ECM will not control the timing until the vehicle has been turned off and restarted with the connector in proper position. If you choose you can clear the code “42” by disconnecting the battery lead to the ECM for at least 10 seconds
 
EWheeler said:
As you suggested earlier...
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That was 5 months ago and we're still not there...🤪. If he played with the distributor under throttle we could at least have instant feedback if timing changes anything. If it does, then he can spend whatever time it takes to get it set properly.

The other option since we don't know which color wire is the "timing set" wire is to disconnect all three wires. Then connect one at a time... You are looking for the one wire, that when connected allows the vehicle to run. This will be the 12V power. You only need power to run so that makes the two disconnected wires the tach and timing set. Since you don't need a tach, it doesn't matter if the other two wires are disconnected. Once you find the one wire to make it run, set the timing.
 
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Thanks everyone. Found a wire (not marked) that is part of the distributor wiring that has a quick connect on it. I BELIEVE this is the timing wire. Gonna disconnect that and reset timing then reconnect it. It will run with that wire disconnected, so I think I'm on the right track.

My confusion stems from me installing this kit, not disconneting the distributor timing wire, and it ran fine at highway speeds for a year, great. Then one day...poof...it ran like crap....I had touched nothing. This led me to believe it WASNT a timing issue, but maybe it is. Will report back.
 
onemanarmy said:
Thanks everyone. Found a wire (not marked) that is part of the distributor wiring that has a quick connect on it. I BELIEVE this is the timing wire. Gonna disconnect that and reset timing then reconnect it. It will run with that wire disconnected, so I think I'm on the right track.

My confusion stems from me installing this kit, not disconneting the distributor timing wire, and it ran fine at highway speeds for a year, great. Then one day...poof...it ran like crap....I had touched nothing. This led me to believe it WASNT a timing issue, but maybe it is. Will report back.
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That's the one. Very very odd it ran well without properly setting the timing. I hope this is the cure for you, it looks like you have been fighting this for A LONG time unfortunately. Bummer not being able to enjoy your pig.
 
So may have figured it out....havent had time to take it on a lengthy drive yet, but first impressions are good!

Did just as the instructions said (what a novel idea!) and set the tinming mark right on the flywheel groove (not BB) and had #1 cylinder at TDC compression. Set the rotor pointed at #4 spark plug (counting from front) and installed the cap so #1 spark plug wire was over rotor. Unpugged the timing wire, cranked it up and rotated the distributor until it soiunded healthy (can't see the timing mark with the engine running with a timing light), plugged the timing wire back in and shut her off. Waited 20 seconds and cranked back up....it settled in nicely. Seems ok now?

Will report back.
 
So of course after I get it running ok, something else pops up

Anyone with an AFI kit have issues where it will just die? No warning, no hiccups.....just dies. Turn the key off and back on, crank it and it fires right up.

It can be sitting at idle or going 60 mph....runs great then cuts out.

Temp. time of engine on, load/no load doesn't seem to matter.

When its running, it runs great. No odd noises/behaviors, or smells
 
onemanarmy said:
So of course after I get it running ok, something else pops up

Anyone with an AFI kit have issues where it will just die? No warning, no hiccups.....just dies. Turn the key off and back on, crank it and it fires right up.

It can be sitting at idle or going 60 mph....runs great then cuts out.

Temp. time of engine on, load/no load doesn't seem to matter.

When its running, it runs great. No odd noises/behaviors, or smells
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My ‘77 FJ40 with V8 did this. It was an issue with the electronic distributor. If it spit and sputtered I would lean towards fuel, but it sounds like you are losing spark.
 
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