What did you do with your Tundra or Sequoia this weekend? (5 Viewers)

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Used the Sequoia to pick up my new s*** box today
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Maintenance. Had a bearing go out up front so finally adding my spindle gussets. Also doing a refresh of the rear swing arm after a few years of neglect and abuse for the new 37s coming in. Fenders are off for clearance check on the 37s at full stuff.

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Bought a 2008 Tundra DC 4wd, SR5 TRD. Nautical blue, 105,000 miles, West Texas truck with no rust. Pretty good work truck.

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First upgrades:
Sony XAV-AX150, double-din touchscreen with CarPlay. Waiting to install the backup camera.

Replaced the cruise control stalk because cruise isn’t working. That didn’t fix the problem, so I’ve ordered the clock spring. Should be here next week.

Installed Genuine Toyota Tailgate Stop Bumper 90541-11015. Tailgate was rattling pretty badly over bumps and was missing both cushions.
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First upgrades:
Sony XAV-AX150, double-din touchscreen with CarPlay. Waiting to install the backup camera.

Replaced the cruise control stalk because cruise isn’t working. That didn’t fix the problem, so I’ve ordered the clock spring. Should be here next week.

Installed Genuine Toyota Tailgate Stop Bumper 90541-11015. Tailgate was rattling pretty badly over bumps and was missing both cushions.
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Where did you get the info on the cruise control? Sounds like something that will come in handy for people the older these trucks get.
 
Where did you get the info on the cruise control? Sounds like something that will come in handy for people the older these trucks get.
Did a lot of research on tundras.com and YouTube. The clock spring can be a problem for the horn, cruise, and airbag light. It’s a $17 part on eBay, and it’s likely the problem. My boss has a 2013 with 77k miles and his clock spring is already acting up. My 2008 Sequoia has 147k miles and no issues at all.
 
Replaced rear electronic shocks on 2011 Platinum. Quoted $2K by local shop, bought shocks through Toyota Southwest parts sale for $350 each and about 2 hour replacement job - probably 30 minutes total jacking/removing wheels/prep, 60 minutes on first side, and 30 minutes on second side once I had the quirks figured out.
 
Replaced rear electronic shocks on 2011 Platinum. Quoted $2K by local shop, bought shocks through Toyota Southwest parts sale for $350 each and about 2 hour replacement job - probably 30 minutes total jacking/removing wheels/prep, 60 minutes on first side, and 30 minutes on second side once I had the quirks figured out.
Did the same for my 2008 this weekend. The hardest part was probably getting the drivers’ side electrical connector back together, not much room to maneuver.

While I had the wheels off, I noticed one of the rear upper control arm bolts had a sheared head (!). Guess I know what I’ll be doing this coming weekend.
 
Replaced rear electronic shocks on 2011 Platinum. Quoted $2K by local shop, bought shocks through Toyota Southwest parts sale for $350 each and about 2 hour replacement job - probably 30 minutes total jacking/removing wheels/prep, 60 minutes on first side, and 30 minutes on second side once I had the quirks figured out.
How did you know it was time to replace them?
 
Maintenance. Had a bearing go out up front so finally adding my spindle gussets. Also doing a refresh of the rear swing arm after a few years of neglect and abuse for the new 37s coming in. Fenders are off for clearance check on the 37s at full stuff.

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@oldmantan how are the 37’s coming? My son is doing a Solo Motorsports long travel setup on his 2004 with 37’s. Massive fender well tub cut project into the cab is underway for clearance, although he’s trying to not limit up travel.

IFS is such an unbelievable PITA for tire clearance.

I put a Road Armor bumper on the 2008. Went heavy duty as primary use is deer protection (hit one with the stock bumper). 3/16” plate all around, body lines are excellent. Really pleased with it.

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Figuring out headlights now - the driver’s side headlight filler panel was ripped off in the deer hit and it damaged the headlight mount, so I figure I’d might as well go aftermarket…
 
That bumper looks sweet!!😎

Thanks, it really exceeded expectations, which was nice after waiting for 5 months to get it. It’s so hard to tell from pictures and a lot of the bigger bumpers are way too Mad Max - I think these lines are perfect and I generally don’t like “big” bumpers. I didn’t want something too off-road focused because I have my 80 for that and I spend a lot of time in deer country at speed these days. Not many bumpers are 3/16” at the wings, no 1/8” plate anywhere here.

4” led pods wired into the fog light harnesses are next.
 
@oldmantan how are the 37’s coming? My son is doing a Solo Motorsports long travel setup on his 2004 with 37’s. Massive fender well tub cut project into the cab is underway for clearance, although he’s trying to not limit up travel.

IFS is such an unbelievable PITA for tire clearance.

I put a Road Armor bumper on the 2008. Went heavy duty as primary use is deer protection (hit one with the stock bumper). 3/16” plate all around, body lines are excellent. Really pleased with it.

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Figuring out headlights now - the driver’s side headlight filler panel was ripped off in the deer hit and it damaged the headlight mount, so I figure I’d might as well go aftermarket…
Thanks, it really exceeded expectations, which was nice after waiting for 5 months to get it. It’s so hard to tell from pictures and a lot of the bigger bumpers are way too Mad Max - I think these lines are perfect and I generally don’t like “big” bumpers. I didn’t want something too off-road focused because I have my 80 for that and I spend a lot of time in deer country at speed these days. Not many bumpers are 3/16” at the wings, no 1/8” plate anywhere here.

4” led pods wired into the fog light harnesses are next.
Totally get it! That was my thoughts on the bumper I chose. I looked for months, hated the “big lips” look of some of the other brands. I wanted something more than tin metal but not as over kill as some of the DIY weld-yourself ones… Don’t get me wrong, they work for other styles/brands of trucks - depending on the application. But some of them really do look ridiculous!!
Being in deer country often myself, I wanted some beefier protection than the plastic skinned aluminum OEM one - which if if you hit something dead on, looks sufficient to stop a good sized deer, but any impact laterally and your screwed.
 
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Totally get it! That was my thoughts on the bumper I chose. I looked for months, hated the “big lips” look of some of the other brands. I wanted something more than tin metal but not as over kill as some of the DIY weld-yourself ones… Don’t get me wrong, they work for other styles/brands of trucks - depending on the application. But some of them really do look ridiculous!!
Being in deer country often myself, I wanted some beefier protection than the plastic skinned aluminum OEM one - which if if you hit something dead on, looks sufficient to stop a good sized deer, but any impact laterally and your screwed.
My deer hit with the OEM was just off center -it ripped off the driver’s side headlight filler piece, which also meant it destroyed the headlight mount where it connects to the headlight. And of course the plastic bumper was damaged.

I used a body puller clamp to straighten out some bent metal brackets under the grill and it destroyed the stupid headlight washer on the driver’s side so I just cut all of that tubing and clamped it off. No need to spend money fixing that.

Lots of piece of mind having something that looks this good with all of the reinforcement. It’s heavier, but not ridiculous and the Dobinson’s suspension is better with some weight on it.

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