Builds Pippy's 97 CE Build Thread (Now with TURBO) (1 Viewer)

[Pippylongsausage]

Making sure everything fits

 

[Pippylongsausage]

Moving along faster than expected!

 

[Pippylongsausage]

Turbo mounted!

 

[Pippylongsausage]

 

[scottryana]

Looks good! It’s been many years since I did my turbo setup but I used that same turbo. If memory serves me right if you want more than 10-12lbs of boost you need to swap the wastegate actuator canister. I see that setup already has an aftermarket Turbosmart but I have no idea how it’s setup.

**with some further reading it appears that the turbosmart actuator will allow for pretty easy spring changes from 3-26psi. That’s nicer than the stock setup, where they have 3 different actuators for low/medium/high boost.**

 

[scottryana]

Are you looking to fit an intercooler? A lot of the Aussie turbo guys have gone FMIC.

If you’re going to use the BOV have you worked out the plumbing? I suppose depends on answer to the above

Don’t need a blow off valve, the BW EFR turbos have a recirculating valve built into the cover.

 

[Pippylongsausage]

Looks good! It’s been many years since I did my turbo setup but I used that same turbo. If memory serves me right if you want more than 10-12lbs of boost you need to swap the wastegate actuator canister. I see that setup already has an aftermarket Turbosmart but I have no idea how it’s setup.

**with some further reading it appears that the turbosmart actuator will allow for pretty easy spring changes from 3-26psi. That’s nicer than the stock setup, where they have 3 different actuators for low/medium/high boost.**

Thanks Ryan! Your build was a big part of a lot of the decisions I’ve made so far. The plan for the actuator is to run a low boost spring and use the boost control solenoid on the turbo run off ta spare output on the haltech 2500. Lots of possibilities doing it that way ie boost by gear, etc.

 

[scottryana]

Thanks Ryan! Your build was a big part of a lot of the decisions I’ve made so far. The plan for the actuator is to run a low boost spring and use the boost control solenoid on the turbo run off ta spare output on the haltech 2500. Lots of possibilities doing it that way ie boost by gear, etc.

Nice, that should work well. With the stock wastegate canister from Borg Warner even using the Haltech for boost control I still couldn't get higher boost without changing out the actuator. But at least with the Turbo Smart all you will have to do is swap springs!

 

[Pippylongsausage]

And the charge piping is routed! Still need to weld it up and route the down pipe.

 

[Pippylongsausage]

Just tying up loose ends now. Still need to drill the pan but got oil and coolant lines done, and whipped up a decent wiring harness for the new knock sensors, boost solenoid, and air temp sensor. Welds are starting to look passable too. Hoping to start it tomorrow. We’ll see.

 

[Pippylongsausage]

Got through the most nerve wracking part of the job: drilling the pan. Not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I pressurized the crank case with low pressure shop air and used a ton of red n tacky on the bits. Of any shavings made it into the pan they’re minimal. Still going to change the oil and flush with spirits.

I got the haltech all wired up but when I tried to start the truck I got nothing. Turns out the pin out diagram looks at the front of the connector. I wired it as though it was looking at the front of the ecu! Damn it. Have to rewire the entire loom.

 

[FMC80]

Bold!

 

[Heckraiser]

FYI, several years after I drilled my pan for my turbo drain line using the greasy bit method, I pulled the pan for a re-seal and found an alarming amount of metal in there, and plenty of smaller flakes stuck in the pickup screen. If I were to do it again, I would pull the lower pan (the easy one) and just wipe everything off before firing it up.

 

[Pippylongsausage]

IT LIVES!
Had work work out a bunch of dumb issues. Battery terminals corroded while it was out, and was not getting good power. Had to mess with some settings on the Haltech base map since it was set up for 105 series COP. Finally started up and sounds NASTY! Now to the Dyno.

 

[Pippylongsausage]

So tempted to drive it. Just going to clean things up until dyno time.

 

[Toyo Boyo]

I’ve looked, and looked again…… I can’t see the MAF anywhere in the IC piping so I guess you’re going MAP and controlling it through the Haltech?

If so, where are you fitting the pressure sensor?
And what about intake temps?

Great work, keep on keeping on

 

[Pippylongsausage]

I’ve looked, and looked again…… I can’t see the MAF anywhere in the IC piping so I guess you’re going MAP and controlling it through the Haltech?

If so, where are you fitting the pressure sensor?
And what about intake temps?

Great work, keep on keeping on

Yep you got it right. I’m taking map from what used to be the useless “gas filter” that broke off a long time ago.

IAT is taken from a sensor in a bung welded to the intake piping.

 

[NKP Garage]

Looking great. Who is going to do the tuning?

 

[Pippylongsausage]

Thanks, got a guy here in atl who specializes in haltech, and does a lot of Supras. Also has his own 97 land cruiser as well so he’s excited to take this on. Just have to get an appointment with him which is proving to be difficult.

Looking great. Who is going to do the tuning?

 

[NKP Garage]

Thanks, got a guy here in atl who specializes in haltech, and does a lot of Supras. Also has his own 97 land cruiser as well so he’s excited to take this on. Just have to get an appointment with him which is proving to be difficult.

Nice! Looking forward to see how it does.