Grenaded Diff? and stolen Cat (1 Viewer)

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Just replaced bearings, the noise I’m almost certain is coming from the diff and is an awful grinding/clunking

Did you use OEM CV's or after market?
 
I need to understand how a front diff just s***s the bed like this. No fluid in the diff is the next guess.
I was about to ask when was the last time the front axle oil had been changed.
I change mine every 3 years.
 
Did you use OEM CV's or after market?
after market — haven't had an issue with them yet. Asked about them when talking to my mechanic earlier and he said there's no issue there
 
I had the diff fluid checked a couple months ago, that was before the axle swap though. There was no leak. I guess I'll know whenever they check the plug if the fluid was low. I heard that the 98-99 LC had weaker front diffs... is it possible that mine was built early enough to have the weaker diff? And if so that it would fail during normal use assuming the fluid was topped?
I don’t recall any front diff on mud, grenading during normal on road use. Whether it be a 98-99 or otherwise. I would be concerned that the diff was not topped off after cv replacement. Not sure how much fluid is lost during cv replacement but it is enough that it must be topped off.
 
I don’t recall any front diff on mud, grenading during normal on road use. Whether it be a 98-99 or otherwise. I would be concerned that the diff was not topped off after cv replacement. Not sure how much fluid is lost during cv replacement but it is enough that it must be topped off.

I wonder if the seals weren't done properly and it was leaking out since putting in the new CVs also. Easy to screw those seals up.
 
I wonder if the seals weren't done properly and it was leaking out since putting in the new CVs also. Easy to screw those seals up.
Could be. If it is either of the two scenarios the shop should replace/repair under warranty.
 
It seems like it's always the 4 pinions that fail, from A-Trac stress. There was probably some A-Trac event that took it to the brink.
 
It seems like it's always the 4 pinions that fail, from A-Trac stress. There was probably some A-Trac event that took it to the brink.
I've never pushed it enough offroad to make the atrac engage, and I know the PO definitely did not
 
All signs point to lack of fluid. Ask the shop to measure the fluid that comes out and not discard it.
If the output seals on the front diff failed it would definitely let out enough oil to cause this. The seals do tend to fail when an old cv is removed, therefore it is a good idea to replace then each time.
 
they replaced bearings and axles, is there anything they could have done wrong when swapping axles that could have caused failure?
Totally- theres a few scenarios from that job- and honestly you are at the mercy of the shop that did the first job- quoting you new repair that they could have indirectly caused from a mistake.

Aftermarket axles and OEM flanges don’t always fit right, if they reused outer snap ring, poor job setting wheel bearings - snap ring could have come off and you may have stripped flange. Or when they pulled the axles, as someone else said you loose a fair bit of gear oil- pulling CV axles (its customary to drain diff completely) if they half drained and didn’t top up- heat would likely kill seals first, bearings then possibly ring & pinion. But you’d have to drive 30-50miles at hwy speed to heat up the diff maybe further till it grenaded- unless it was completely empty and never refilled- then it’s toast pretty quick.

If you’re relying on tech to tell the truth- You really should be standing there while they check and disassemble otherwise you might not get the full picture.

If the ring gear broke, Check East Coast Gear for take offs, or they also sell rebuilt front diffs- rebuilt with the right parts- Toyota seals and bearings-
 
Really sorry to hear about the stolen Cats too, that's just insult to injury. Thieves are the scum of the earth.
 
Sorry for your trouble man, keep your chin up and you'll get it sorted.

I would look into the wheel bearings and the lock nuts... our Toyota's are sensitive to the preload on the bearings and it is easy to not get it right during reassembly. I hope it isn't your diff. If it is, I would source a used one out of the lowest mile 100 you can find. I would add all new OEM seals where possible.

Thieves... was it stolen at the shop you towed it to? If so that should be covered by their insurance. Such a headache for $30 in platinum, I would get insurance involved.

Keep after it, these are solid vehicles but like any machine they can break and need good maintenance.
 
Thieves... was it stolen at the shop you towed it to? If so that should be covered by their insurance. Such a headache for $30 in platinum, I would get insurance involved.
Not stolen from the shop, but insurance got involved and are covering the theft, which is a weight off the shoulders. Car is getting jacked this afternoon so I'll know positively if it's the diff soon. I asked the shop if they topped the fluid last time and they assured that they did, so if it's the diff and he's as good as his word then I'm thinking it's the seals.
 
Not stolen from the shop, but insurance got involved and are covering the theft, which is a weight off the shoulders. Car is getting jacked this afternoon so I'll know positively if it's the diff soon. I asked the shop if they topped the fluid last time and they assured that they did, so if it's the diff and he's as good as his word then I'm thinking it's the seals.
Was gear lube and at least 1 gasket (washer) for diff fill plug, on the bill?
 
If the seals were leaking enough to drain the lube, there would be gear lube everywhere around the diff. It also stinks so you’d know something was leaking.
 
No an den! :mad:
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