What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (33 Viewers)

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Installing this from JE Reel with Matsuba joints

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Heckraiser said:
Yes.

All I was expecting really was to remove the rear end sloppiness and sideways wiggle that occurs when you drive over big bumps. I had also read comments on MUD on the anti-sway effect and kind of wrote them off. But there is indeed a very distinct improvement in body roll control. This was the most pronounced improvement to me on my test drive--surefooted in the corners. I even did a roundabout at speeds that would have felt borderline reckless before the bracket, and it felt totally fine. I have TJM progressive springs, which are one of the softest springs on the market, so the effect was probably more pronounced for me than it would be for others.

The effect on steering input was totally unexpected. I didn't even realize until I was behind the wheel for 10 minutes that I wasn't constantly adjusting the wheel like I normally do (I do have adequate caster correction).

@nigelsiam I have about 3-3.5" of lift by the measuring tape. TJM progressive springs, 1" spacer up front, all rear seats removed (2-seater)
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Ok, the way you described your rig before is exactly what I experience today. I might just have to do this as well. Thank you for the feedback!
 
I’m in the middle of putting mine back together. And will be adding a catch can to hopefully not allow as much oil in the intake.
BillyGoatMTB said:
Afternoon Mud :flipoff2:

1fz head gasket / refresh almost ready for assembly.

Waiting on 2 more packages
1 ith by delivery
2 ith by Mr t

Man that was alot of elbow grease, dawn dish soap in water with a cordless drill and assortment of brass and stainless drill brushes worked amazing.

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While replacing my left rear power window, I decided to give the door some TLC in general. Removed the panel and cleaned the door inside and out, made sure drains were clear, installed some KILMAT, replaced the vapor barrier (thanks to @Delta VS ) and butyl tape (thanks to MUD threads for explaining what that stuff was, lol).

While snagging the vapor barriers on the Delta website, I saw the little rear ashtray replacement with USB ports. I figured while I was inside the door I'd go ahead and install that and give backseat passengers some phone-charging love. It came with clear instructions from Delta, but after getting it all installed, no power to the USB. I checked the fuse and the self-stripping splice terminal and connector, all good.

Turns out it's the ground. The location the instructions gave to connect the ground wire just isn't a good spot. In fact I could find no good grounding spot anywhere on or in the door itself. Even after stripping a spot down to bare metal the most I could get on the meter was 6v. I'm not an electrical guy by any stretch, but I'm guessing that this is because the door metal doesn't have a good solid path to the, well, ground via the frame. When I test with the multi-meter negative touching a bare metal spot on the body, such as the screws on the door striker, I get a strong 12v and the USB powers up.

So my question is this: any of you know of a fairly simple way to get a well-grounded wire into the door frame that doesn't involve me tearing into the interior/carpet too much?

In hindsight it probably would have been easier to just put ports in the back of the center console and use the ground point that I understand is easily accessible under the console. But this little ashtray replacement is so well designed and great use of that space without having to cut holes in stuff. I'd really like to use it, if possible.
 
Rdeschain said:
Turns out it's the ground. The location the instructions gave to connect the ground wire just isn't a good spot. In fact I could find no good grounding spot anywhere on or in the door itself. Even after stripping a spot down to bare metal the most I could get on the meter was 6v. I'm not an electrical guy by any stretch, but I'm guessing that this is because the door metal doesn't have a good solid path to the, well, ground via the frame. When I test with the multi-meter negative touching a bare metal spot on the body, such as the screws on the door striker, I get a strong 12v and the USB powers up.
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You use the OHM function not voltage checking your ground. An ideal reading is 0. One end on the lug grounded to the door. The other end on an existing ground source, ideally the frame. The reading may be slightly higher if not on freshly grounded metal maybe no higher than 5. Use a conductive lubricant between the lug and metal, especially in a humid location.
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on the rocks said:
You use the OHM function not voltage checking your ground. An ideal reading is 0. One end on the lug grounded to the door. The other end on an existing ground source, ideally the frame. The reading may be slightly higher if not on freshly grounded metal maybe no higher than 5. Use a conductive lubricant between the lug and metal, especially in a humid location.
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On aircraft we generally look for measurements in the milliohms range for metal to metal bonds and ground straps.

But when shooting wires anything less than 10 is considered continuity.
 
Dusten said:
On aircraft we generally look for measurements in the milliohms range for metal to metal bonds and ground straps.

But when shooting wires anything less than 10 is considered continuity.
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That makes me feel a hell of alot better at 36,000 ft!!!😂 Cant go wrong with overdoing it!
 
Pulled the cover off of her and blew the dust off after a two year home remodel made me sideline any Cruiser work. Put the new wheels and tires with death spacers on and started collecting parts for cooling system.
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Hardwired gate open into upper console. No more batteries no more clicker, and best of all my copilot can press it if I'm trying to drive and hold a cold snack at the same time. Where do you put your drinks? In the square pencil holder thing. 🤣
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I was contacted by ComeUp Winch to do a bit of testing of their newest winch, the ComeUp SOLO. I've been running the ComeUp Seal Gen2 9.5rs for the past 5 years or so and it's been an excellent winch so I was excited to see what the newest winch from them was like. Side note, some have asked me over the years if the 9.5 (9500lb) winch is enough on an 80. I can say that this 9.5 has been more than up to the task on my heavy 80. It's been used a lot and never had an issue.

I was given the option of trying a prototype (near production version) 9.5 SOLO or the 12.5 SOLO and chose the 12.5 so that I could really compare the larger winch to my experience with the 9.5. Some cool features to the SOLO. I'm looking forward to giving it a good run soon. I got it installed yesterday without much trouble. The cables for the integrated control box on the prototype made it a bit tight against the grill so I got a little creative and routed the cables through the grill and back out to connect to the winch motor. The production version of the winch that will be on shelves in September has addressed the cable routing to make it much easier to fit the cables. The control box is able to be mounted remotely as well if you're one who prefers the control box under the hood.
ComeUp Solo by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

New integrated control box with digital display that shows battery level and low battery alarm
ComeUp Solo by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

First off was removing the well used and proven 9.5rs
ComeUp Solo by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

No pics of the install since its very simple and straight forward.
ComeUp Solo by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

My cable routing solution. :)
ComeUp Solo by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

ComeUp Solo by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Here's how the production version has improved the cable connections at the control box to help fitment in tight spaces. If you compare this to the pic of mine where the cables point straight out the back. This improvement to the production winch is a good one. The connection cover is just a temporary 3d Printed piece for prototyping. The final cover might look a bit different. Also, the yellow stickers (solo and 12.5) will be different on the production winch. I've been told they will be a nice looking black.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
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Toy4Fun2 said:
What problem did you have that made you install such a big cooler?
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Hydro assist, ported to 5mm steering pump. On a heavy road dextron in steering warms up too high. Smudges and dirt formed on the oil tank.
 
@bmac1996acc Are "death spacers" just a big stack of washers at each wheel stud? :rofl:

For the collective: Are there specific paint codes for the TRD stripes? The yellow, orange and red?
 
Installed Dobinsons adjustable rear upper control arms and Hudd Expo GIS skid plate.

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