Need help with stuck rear door mechanism, 1990 HZJ73 (1 Viewer)

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Kaderabek

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Jan 2, 2003
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Hey y'all. I searched the threads but can't find what I need so bear with me. My right rear barn door is stuck shut.. The mechanism isn't releasing the latch.

First photo is the initial position. Second is the "open" position. Third shows the alignment of the latch mechanism, which seems to be at something other than a right angle to the door.

I'm thinking the mechanism is broken and likely can't be repaired, needs to be replaced?

Thoughts?

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Good observation. That appears to be in a collar. Good place to start (over) anyway. Thanks, PBR!
 
Looks like it was slammed/bent. I would second loosening up the bolts and see if you can get the jaw of that hook to open. Then maybe see if it can be bent back into alignment.
 
Slammed is the only way to close it. Since I've had it anyway. It's such a beast, I never considered this abnormal.
 
Also I forgot the best part. My tools are all packed in the drawers. Which won't open because that door won't open. :bang:
 
Slamming is not normal. It sounds like the door may be misaligned. Mine required slamming as well, but I knew it was due to play in the hinges. I replaced the hinges this last weekend and after realigning the door, it opens and closes as sweet and easy as a new car. squeaks and rattles eliminated as well. New hinges are expensive, but they're available and easy to do and well worth it.
 
"Squeaks and rattles" - that sounds familiar. I'll take a look at the hinges as well. Thanks very much.
 
I just replaced the right door hinges in my cruiser. Until I did, I lifted the door a bit as I closed it so I would not have to "slam" it. Now I do not need to support it as I close it with the new hinges.

If you lift the door a bit, are you able to get the latch to release? I would definitely be ordering new hinges, and possibly some latch parts, and you should be good!
 
I tried lifting it but it's shut tight. Sounds like some adjusting to be done at the very least. Thanks very much.
 
I'm guessing the inside half of the "jaw" is supposed to swing in and down as you pull the door handle? Is there any play in it if you try to push it manually with something?

Hope that makes sense. Maybe if you can release it manually like that, you can get a closer look at the whole mechanism.

Also, I'm in the same boat with lifting the door up a little to assist the older hinges and making sure the door closes "level" and not having the door be drooped when it makes contact with the lock mechanism.
 
I'm guessing the inside half of the "jaw" is supposed to swing in and down as you pull the door handle? Is there any play in it if you try to push it manually with something?

Hope that makes sense. Maybe if you can release it manually like that, you can get a closer look at the whole mechanism.

Also, I'm in the same boat with lifting the door up a little to assist the older hinges and making sure the door closes "level" and not having the door be drooped when it makes contact with the lock mechanism.
There's no play at all. I'll need to loosen or remove the two bolts that hold that collar.
 
There's no play at all. I'll need to loosen or remove the two bolts that hold that collar.
Ok, I tested my door just now. It looks like the handle on the door, when pulled, unlocks the "jaw" slightly, and then the "jaw" rotates downward/inward so that the bar attached to the body can pass. I'm guessing the release mechanism of the "jaw" part is disconnected and needs to be checked like you said.
 
Ok, I tested my door just now. It looks like the handle on the door, when pulled, unlocks the "jaw" slightly, and then the "jaw" rotates downward/inward so that the bar attached to the body can pass. I'm guessing the release mechanism of the "jaw" part is disconnected and needs to be checked like you said.
Right - either that or it's jammed. Hoping it's jammed and not broken. I appreciate you checking on yours.
 
Success. Recalled that I'd loaned a 1/2" socket to a friend who needed to pull his battery out of his Corvette and those latch bolts looked as close to 1/2" as metric gets. My lucky day - bolts came right off, no issues at all. Door opened as soon as it had some slack.
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I have no question that this latch was more straight when it came from the factory but the clearance everywhere is so tight that maybe it's not that far from original. This is a 30+ year old truck that was a delivery vehicle in The Netherlands so who knows how many times these doors have been slammed.
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I took everything apart and cleaned it all up. Got it lined up as close to right angles as I could and put it all back together.
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It'll probably happen again but for now, it opens and closes much easier than before. Put the trim back on, UNLOADED MY TOOLS :p and called it good. I appreciate all the advice.
 
I did take a look at the hinges and they honestly look fine to me. There's no sign of them dragging on the bottoms of the doors or anything like that. Again, it's an old truck and things age and sag but I think they're OK for now.
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