I think it’s easier to strip paint off than deal with rust but I also very well understand your puzzle as mine is the same. You could just have a shop redo only the roof. It’s on top where few people see. Good time to strip the rain gutter sealant and reseal too.
Starting the long fixit list on Kaylee; from neglected to spoiled (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TLC4K2
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- Thread starter
- #42
Well, one fixit project crossed off the list, maybe. I finished replacing the window regulator today. But the glass is just a smidgen draggy. It's not hanging up on anything, but it takes a bit more force to raise the window than I think it should. Everything is lubed where the FSM said it should be, and the window is in its track and seems to be aligned. I checked the passenger side window and it's about the same, maybe a little easier. Is there something else I should slick up besides the new regulator itself?
Kathryn and Kaylee
Kathryn and Kaylee
- Thread starter
- #43
A few updates here. First, I did get that new window regulator to work pretty well. Everything seems lined up; I may have simply been a little skimpy on the grease. The more I worked the window the easier it moved. Got that project buttoned up just in time to fire her up and drive the 10 miles over to Torfab for her scheduled knuckle rebuild. I haven't driven her since the diagnosis that her knuckles were dangerously worn, and I'd forgotten how much she shudders and groans whenever I turn the steering wheel very far. That will be a very, VERY nice job to cross off the list. They said they'll have her about a week.
In the meantime, I have plenty of reading to do here on next projects. Her gas gauge apparently hasn't worked in years, the window wash reservoir is leaking from the bottom so it's perennially empty, and I made the mistake of looking on Amazon last night for some auto body repair and paint books. Yea, blame that last one on @CruiserTrash, who shared a paint thread with me from someone in his local TLC group. Seeing someone go through that process for the first time, at home, has me pretty much decided to do as much of the paint work myself as possible. Cuz I have all the free time in the world, right?
So this weekend I'll be mostly reading, no wrench turning, but I've got plans for the old girl when she gets home.
Kathryn and Kaylee, who's dance card is full for awhile
In the meantime, I have plenty of reading to do here on next projects. Her gas gauge apparently hasn't worked in years, the window wash reservoir is leaking from the bottom so it's perennially empty, and I made the mistake of looking on Amazon last night for some auto body repair and paint books. Yea, blame that last one on @CruiserTrash, who shared a paint thread with me from someone in his local TLC group. Seeing someone go through that process for the first time, at home, has me pretty much decided to do as much of the paint work myself as possible. Cuz I have all the free time in the world, right?
So this weekend I'll be mostly reading, no wrench turning, but I've got plans for the old girl when she gets home.
Kathryn and Kaylee, who's dance card is full for awhile
- Thread starter
- #44
Well, it's been another week and I'm happy to say that progress has been made. Kaylee came home today from Torfab with a nicely rebuilt pair of knuckles, and new brake pads/rotors in front. New power steering pump too. I have to say that driving her home, the steering was SO much better. No groaning or vibration through the wheel. Nice change.
Of course a few more issues manifested on the way home during bad weather. Turned on my headlights during a downpour, and nothing happened. Hmm. Turned them off, then on again, and there they were. So apparently the headlight on/off switch is merely a suggestion right now. Probably some dirty contacts. Also remembered that my passenger side turn signal glows steady if the headlights are on, while the driver side turn signal appears to be out. So some electrical connections to check, and maybe a bad bulb or two. Oh yea and my fuel gauge has been dead since we bought the old girl, so I've been using the odometer to figure out when to refuel. But by golly the rear hatch defroster works, as does the wiper. Not sure about the washer spritzer because my windshield washer fluid reservoir is leaking enough that I can't keep fluid in it. So tonight I'm mulling what to work on next. On top of the list I already had going.
Still, it was cool to pull into the grocery store parking lot and have a few folks give Kaylee a second look. Not sure if they were admiring her falling-apart roof rack, or the partially completed body work, or just admiring an old gal who still has some sass, out and about doing her thing. I'll opt to believe it was the latter. We'll get the rest of that stuff taken care of in time. Our next date with Torfab is in late June, when they're going to remove and replace her twisted crossmembers in back, thanks to a badly mounted trailer hitch. I have between now and then to decide whether to get that snazzy new beefy rear bumper I've been eyeing, or stick with the stock bumper. Sigh, decisions decisions. In the meantime, Kaylee and I have plenty of smaller stuff to work on. Oh, and did I mention that I have swiss cheese for an exhaust line?
Kathryn and Kaylee
Of course a few more issues manifested on the way home during bad weather. Turned on my headlights during a downpour, and nothing happened. Hmm. Turned them off, then on again, and there they were. So apparently the headlight on/off switch is merely a suggestion right now. Probably some dirty contacts. Also remembered that my passenger side turn signal glows steady if the headlights are on, while the driver side turn signal appears to be out. So some electrical connections to check, and maybe a bad bulb or two. Oh yea and my fuel gauge has been dead since we bought the old girl, so I've been using the odometer to figure out when to refuel. But by golly the rear hatch defroster works, as does the wiper. Not sure about the washer spritzer because my windshield washer fluid reservoir is leaking enough that I can't keep fluid in it. So tonight I'm mulling what to work on next. On top of the list I already had going.
Still, it was cool to pull into the grocery store parking lot and have a few folks give Kaylee a second look. Not sure if they were admiring her falling-apart roof rack, or the partially completed body work, or just admiring an old gal who still has some sass, out and about doing her thing. I'll opt to believe it was the latter. We'll get the rest of that stuff taken care of in time. Our next date with Torfab is in late June, when they're going to remove and replace her twisted crossmembers in back, thanks to a badly mounted trailer hitch. I have between now and then to decide whether to get that snazzy new beefy rear bumper I've been eyeing, or stick with the stock bumper. Sigh, decisions decisions. In the meantime, Kaylee and I have plenty of smaller stuff to work on. Oh, and did I mention that I have swiss cheese for an exhaust line?
Kathryn and Kaylee
- Thread starter
- #45
Late Sunday night, looking at yet another busy workweek ahead, but still going to try to get some work done with Kaylee. Top of the priority list, get after the dead fuel gauge, and then see if I can figure out how to pull the windshield reservoir to check it for leaks and cracks. If I can get those two things done this week, I'll be jazzed.
Took time out today to get more into Mud and look for info on specific topics. Found a wonderful thread about making the most of the Weber carb, which we're going to start trying to fine-tune here soon, but only after we finish with baselining the truck and replacing a variety of things like sparkplugs and hoses (thanks @CruiserTrash for that list when I first joined). In the process of all that reading, I am discovering how many totally awesome folks are out there. Just today I started reading about the Badass and GrayGarden builds. @NeverGiveUpYota and @HemiAlex , thank you both for some wonderful build info. So much knowledge here. And @NeverGiveUpYota in particular, whenever I need a reminder of just how badass lady mechanics can be, I'm gonna think of you. Wow, you're my new hero (right up there with Ripley from "Aliens", Zoe and Kaylee from "Firefly", Sarah Conner from "Terminator" and Tasha from the MCU). Dang, I'm running with the wolves now......
Kathryn and Kaylee
Took time out today to get more into Mud and look for info on specific topics. Found a wonderful thread about making the most of the Weber carb, which we're going to start trying to fine-tune here soon, but only after we finish with baselining the truck and replacing a variety of things like sparkplugs and hoses (thanks @CruiserTrash for that list when I first joined). In the process of all that reading, I am discovering how many totally awesome folks are out there. Just today I started reading about the Badass and GrayGarden builds. @NeverGiveUpYota and @HemiAlex , thank you both for some wonderful build info. So much knowledge here. And @NeverGiveUpYota in particular, whenever I need a reminder of just how badass lady mechanics can be, I'm gonna think of you. Wow, you're my new hero (right up there with Ripley from "Aliens", Zoe and Kaylee from "Firefly", Sarah Conner from "Terminator" and Tasha from the MCU). Dang, I'm running with the wolves now......
Kathryn and Kaylee
We document these things so others don’t have to seethe and cope.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Thank you! Much appreciated. It’s a whole lot of extra gobbly gook too.
Definitely interested in reading your post about priming the carb for cold start...searched your posts and the CruiserTrash posts with no luck....
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Gimme 15/20 mins and I’ll explain. Or actually I have a video. I’ll link it.
Thx...have a request in to OSS also, who just responded to my thread about Farting while Starting.....
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
My video is wrong. I can link but don’t press on gas. Just turn key. And do that maybe 3-4 times to get fuel up to the carb bowl.
This was prior to my full rebuild. I don’t count to 10 now… maybe 5. I do it about 3 times and truck fires right up. I DO pull the choke fully but push it in half way because since it’s a city racer it bogs right out.
This was prior to my full rebuild. I don’t count to 10 now… maybe 5. I do it about 3 times and truck fires right up. I DO pull the choke fully but push it in half way because since it’s a city racer it bogs right out.
@NeverGiveUpYota fantastic - thank you.
Essentially just using the pump to get gas to the float bowl …. ?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
And this was taught to me by @OSS I just pass it along as often as I can because it’s the right way to start a carbureted engine.
- Thread starter
- #55
Wellllll, a mixed bag with Kaylee this weekend. Finally got my JIS bits in the mail, and tried again on the fuel sender access hatch. Only succeeded in starting to strip out the heads. I stopped before I wrecked them entirely. We're wondering now if we just need to drill those out, except for the tank proximity. I'm open to suggestions on that part.
The windshield wiper fluid line has been patched and is working again, so I can cross that off the list.
I also took the passenger rear view mirror off the door because one of those screws was lost long ago, and replaced with the wrong size screw which stripped out the threads in the door. Found a matching machine screw at our better-than-average hardware store, and I have a new tap set coming in the mail tomorrow to chase out the threads. Hoping I can get the rear view mirror installed tomorrow.
In the good news category, I found and closed FOUR more vacuum seals. I'm now convinced the PO did not do the desmog on this truck, because if he had, he never would have tolerated having those vacuum leaks. Once I started tracing out the systems, I found them right away. So his claims to have "looked and looked and couldn't find the leak" just isn't very convincing. But the truck started up a whole lot easier, and shut down without dieseling. It also re-started right away without any issues. So maybe, just maybe, my hard hot starts and dieseling may have been resolved. Time will tell.
Frustrated about the fuel sender access hatch, but moving forward with everything else. I guess that's a net good weekend. Oh, and I've concluded my battery is old and needs to be replaced. Doesn't have much umph left. If there are "first best options" for battery choice, I'd love to hear about it.
Kathryn and Kaylee, who sounds smoother now that she doesn't have as many vacuum leaks
The windshield wiper fluid line has been patched and is working again, so I can cross that off the list.
I also took the passenger rear view mirror off the door because one of those screws was lost long ago, and replaced with the wrong size screw which stripped out the threads in the door. Found a matching machine screw at our better-than-average hardware store, and I have a new tap set coming in the mail tomorrow to chase out the threads. Hoping I can get the rear view mirror installed tomorrow.
In the good news category, I found and closed FOUR more vacuum seals. I'm now convinced the PO did not do the desmog on this truck, because if he had, he never would have tolerated having those vacuum leaks. Once I started tracing out the systems, I found them right away. So his claims to have "looked and looked and couldn't find the leak" just isn't very convincing. But the truck started up a whole lot easier, and shut down without dieseling. It also re-started right away without any issues. So maybe, just maybe, my hard hot starts and dieseling may have been resolved. Time will tell.
Frustrated about the fuel sender access hatch, but moving forward with everything else. I guess that's a net good weekend. Oh, and I've concluded my battery is old and needs to be replaced. Doesn't have much umph left. If there are "first best options" for battery choice, I'd love to hear about it.
Kathryn and Kaylee, who sounds smoother now that she doesn't have as many vacuum leaks
Gretsch
SILVER Star
This is even with the impact driver coupled with the JIS bits?
How was this determined? Battery tester or multi meter or just listening to the sound of it trying to crank over? Have not read through this whole thing so apologies if this was mentioned already.
You might think about getting the battery properly tested and then source a new battery cable set if the original set is still on the truck. @Fourrunner I believe still makes a nice kit.
FJ60/FJ62 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets
The kit costs $155.00 shipped (within US). International shipping is available. The kit includes 5 cables and battery terminal connectors. This kit fits FJ60's and FJ62's. See below for additional kits (FJ40, FJ80 and FZJ80) Kit includes: Battery positive to starter cable (with protective...
forum.ih8mud.com
Made my truck come alive from an electric power standpoint. I use an Optima RedTop from 2016 which has served me well but not sure those are what they used to be nowadays. But I think any Group 27 battery works fine. Folks have had good success with Interstate. HTH.
I 2nd the cable kit from @Fourrunner.This is even with the impact driver coupled with the JIS bits?
How was this determined? Battery tester or multi meter or just listening to the sound of it trying to crank over? Have not read through this whole thing so apologies if this was mentioned already.
You might think about getting the battery properly tested and then source a new battery cable set if the original set is still on the truck. @Fourrunner I believe still makes a nice kit.
FJ60/FJ62 Heavy Duty Battery Cable Sets
The kit costs $155.00 shipped (within US). International shipping is available. The kit includes 5 cables and battery terminal connectors. This kit fits FJ60's and FJ62's. See below for additional kits (FJ40, FJ80 and FZJ80) Kit includes: Battery positive to starter cable (with protective...
Made my truck come alive from an electric power standpoint. I use an Optima RedTop from 2016 which has served me well but not sure those are what they used to be nowadays. But I think any Group 27 battery works fine. Folks have had good success with Interstate. HTH.
Nice job finding the vac leaks @TLC4K2. Those are always good to knock out.
- Thread starter
- #58
As for the JIS bits, yes. The screws were already on their way towards being stripped out, and that corrosion just wouldn't give even after a week of soaking with PB Blaster. I stopped before I completely stripped them out, but suffice to say I won't be using that method to get them out. Heating up the screws is out due to proximity to the fuel tank and possible fumes. Screw heads are so close to that access hatch I can't even get a vice grips on them. Next step is to drill them out, very carefully, and remove the heads that way. I have perfect pilot holes already drilled. If that doesn't work for some reason, I'll just grind the @#$@# screw heads off. I'm trying to preserve the access plate but I can always touch it up if I mar it trying to get the darn thing off. Or replace it with sheet metal.
As for the vacuum leaks, yea that was a nice thing to finally get after. Last count I've sealed up 5 or 6 different leaks. That seems to have helped, and possibly fixed, the dieseling and hard starts. We'll see if those problems pop up again.
As for the battery, it looks old and it acts old. Cables and terminals are both corroded pretty significantly. Replacing the cables was already on the list. But when I was trying to get her turned over this weekend, it had been awhile since I'd started her and I'm sure the carb bowl was empty. So I had to crank awhile. The battery started strong but didn't have much cranking power and I wasn't sure if it was going to hang in there before the engine finally started. That was enough for me. Rather know I have a strong fresh battery, than wonder about it.
On a happier note, my husband's '95 GMC pickup has developed some oil pressure issues and needs new brake pads anyway. He asked if Kaylee was ready to serve as shuttle back and forth so he can drop his off at the shop. I said youbetcha, we're ready to roll. That was a nice thing to be able to say with any sort of confidence. She's still got her list, but our Kaylee is safely within the realm of reliable now. A nice feeling.
Kathryn and Kaylee
As for the vacuum leaks, yea that was a nice thing to finally get after. Last count I've sealed up 5 or 6 different leaks. That seems to have helped, and possibly fixed, the dieseling and hard starts. We'll see if those problems pop up again.
As for the battery, it looks old and it acts old. Cables and terminals are both corroded pretty significantly. Replacing the cables was already on the list. But when I was trying to get her turned over this weekend, it had been awhile since I'd started her and I'm sure the carb bowl was empty. So I had to crank awhile. The battery started strong but didn't have much cranking power and I wasn't sure if it was going to hang in there before the engine finally started. That was enough for me. Rather know I have a strong fresh battery, than wonder about it.
On a happier note, my husband's '95 GMC pickup has developed some oil pressure issues and needs new brake pads anyway. He asked if Kaylee was ready to serve as shuttle back and forth so he can drop his off at the shop. I said youbetcha, we're ready to roll. That was a nice thing to be able to say with any sort of confidence. She's still got her list, but our Kaylee is safely within the realm of reliable now. A nice feeling.
Kathryn and Kaylee
- Thread starter
- #59
Been a long while since I last posted; been too darned busy. But we've gotten a lot done with our '83 FJ60. I'll list everything some other time.
In the meantime, right now we have a rather inconvenient mystery: The heater (now that we're in winter) puts out nice heat from all the vents, EXCEPT for the vent which defrosts the front windshield. That air is noticeably cooler than what is simultaneously coming out the side defrosting vents (for the driver and passenger windows). Why would the central defrosting vents put out much cooler air than the two side vents? I'm thinking there must be a hole or gap in the ducting which supplies the central defroster openings. I've gone through the owner's manual, the Haynes guide AND the factory repair guide, but haven't been able to find a really good diagram of the various ducts for the heating system. I'm already steeling myself to have to take the entire dashboard apart to fix this, but any "look here first" suggestions would be very welcome. The heat we're getting out of those center defrost vents is not warm enough to keep the windshield clear on colder days. Call us motivated to fix this particular problem. TIA everyone, and Happy Holidays!
In the meantime, right now we have a rather inconvenient mystery: The heater (now that we're in winter) puts out nice heat from all the vents, EXCEPT for the vent which defrosts the front windshield. That air is noticeably cooler than what is simultaneously coming out the side defrosting vents (for the driver and passenger windows). Why would the central defrosting vents put out much cooler air than the two side vents? I'm thinking there must be a hole or gap in the ducting which supplies the central defroster openings. I've gone through the owner's manual, the Haynes guide AND the factory repair guide, but haven't been able to find a really good diagram of the various ducts for the heating system. I'm already steeling myself to have to take the entire dashboard apart to fix this, but any "look here first" suggestions would be very welcome. The heat we're getting out of those center defrost vents is not warm enough to keep the windshield clear on colder days. Call us motivated to fix this particular problem. TIA everyone, and Happy Holidays!
georgebj60
SILVER Star
This could be from a number of things. First thing I would do is make sure the recirc option is selected on the heater controls. Are all the control operating smoothly, and to the full range of the sliders? It's possible some vents are not closing entirely due to sticky cables. Lastly, there is 30 year old foam around many of the vent doors in the heater box that is now as hard as week old bread. And it crumbles and disintegrates easily, so some of that might now be gone and air is getting around the flaps.
Here are some images of the heater box, showing some of the vents - so you have a visual on the is going on under the dash. If your AC is working, taking this all out may require evacuating that system, which would add to the complexity of taking it all apart. It may be possible to get the heater box out and leave the AC intact, but those boxes are also full of 30 year old junk and should probably be cleaned out at the same time.
Aside from that, the work to remove the dash and heater controls is not difficult at all, but it is time consuming. There's a lot of stuff to remove.
Here are some images of the heater box, showing some of the vents - so you have a visual on the is going on under the dash. If your AC is working, taking this all out may require evacuating that system, which would add to the complexity of taking it all apart. It may be possible to get the heater box out and leave the AC intact, but those boxes are also full of 30 year old junk and should probably be cleaned out at the same time.
Aside from that, the work to remove the dash and heater controls is not difficult at all, but it is time consuming. There's a lot of stuff to remove.
