I Like Big Brakes and I Cannot Lie!!! (1 Viewer)

[on the rocks]

Yes, Tundra are similar with larger OD.
Those Brembo calipers MIGHT work, but I see two big initial problems:
First, the Brembo rotor is only 1.1" thick, so there's not as much space in the caliper for pads.
Second, they state "min. Wheel size 18"". I know there are Tundras that run 17's so it's possible, but I have 18's on my 100 that has Tundra rotors and there is not much room to spare.

Thanks. Good news, somewhat. Running 18” rims here now. Should be good there but I’m sure most running 17” and under wont be so much. Would be happy to test it out if fairly certain the tolerances check out and some more research. I could be wrong with just a quick check but see the tundra rotor new runs 32mm= 1.25984. Per the link below I see One caliper specs 1.25 per the link below.

https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/Flyers/fl256.pdf

 

[on the rocks]

With about $10k-$15k suspension and drive train coming here on my 80 in the near future I was thinking it would be silly to overlook the braking system. Overall the cost for the brake upgrade vs. performance gain seems to be minor if it works well compared to the overall expense on the push to go 37’s. I’ll entertain the efforts you guys have put into this upgrade. I’m sold on the idea. Like I mentioned I’m already running 18’s and likely will go 20’s next.
With the thought I’m not sitting on the couch collecting government COVID money and busy as all hell i’m going to post some parts on here with the hopes I have a go to for ordering when it slows a bit. Thinking I will order one side next to test fit and go on a hunt for someone to machine the hub and maybe drill the rotors and press the studs all at once. @I Lean seems to be the go to on this and he is a day away and cheap shipping with brown Santa. Hopefully we can work a deal.



Parts to complete the upgrade PRE fitment. Fingers crossed I got this S*&T right:
T100 MC- ABS BKN34031N
MC tank level switch- tbd, pending 80 tank working on T100 MC. Not sure this confirmed or needed
Tundra rotor 14”x 1.25 W- current rears are stop tech drilled and slotted, matching rotor front: StopTech 315-127-44156CL;315-127-44156CR
Caliper bracket Wilwood - both the same part number and accommodates the 14" rotor, includes mounting and shims; 950-250-14666; must machine mounting face 5mm. Spacer is slightly too big pushing caliper too far out. reaching out to see if they have a .411" spacer or slightly less. Will machine down if not.
Caliper FNSL6R Wilwood red 14” 6 piston 4 runner upgrade OEM MC fit: 950-120-11779-RD; 950-120-11778-RD
Brake pads- lots of options but went Smartpad superlite BP-10; 950-150-8855K
M14 lug nuts- lug centric tbd. Looking race line.L73809LBKA6NV
Replaced both front hubs fully with all parts with Cruiser Outfitters.FA69046 hub; M14 wheel stud x25 WHL02083OEM;OEM HUB rebuild kit x2
All OEM items from Cruiser outfitters since local to I LEAN and myself somewhat. Rough parts and labor total to date including machine work- ~$2850
Tacoma flex-line brake line extension to caliper. Due to special caliper thread, the OEM line will need to be replaced. Fitment and necessity pending, may use 45 degree fitting they provide and keep braided line. 950-220-14618. These look to be a bit long, reaching out to see if they have a shorter kit.

 

[on the rocks]

Well, ya'all done got me sucked into this madness. Going over all parts, everything seems to be in order. Hope to start wrenching by weeks end. Crossing fingers this all goes together well or I have some expensive ass paperweights. Thanks to @I Lean for the machine work and timely return on the hubs and rotors. He did all lathe, drilling and press work. Nice work man, and thanks again for the help. Decided to take it to the next level and add a little bling, f&*% it. I'm sure not for everyone but it is for me. It all looks small in the pictures but it's definitely SUPERSIZED. Likely triple the cost minus rims and tires that was originally posted using the OEM 100 rotors and OEM 4runner calipers but she has been neglected for some time so time to make up to her.
Hub bearing grease not included in picture and the T100 MC will be a later phase with likely a brake line ABS/ LSPV delete. Also long overdue. I would like to do some before / after stops and see what the actual improvement is and tweak as I go and feel necessary.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Post up your parts list for calipers, rotors etc.

Looks like the Caliper is 120-11779-RD
Is there a knuckle adapter to make those work?

 

[on the rocks]

Will do, I started in post #122 and eventually will go back and edit what was left off or changed after I confirm correct and maybe get the overall $$$ sticker shock as well, as of now I'm not 100% sure it wasn't changed and know its not complete. Both Calipers have a different designation at the end. They are side specific but the holder is the same part both sides. I basically took the 2014 4Runner 6 piston upgrade kit that happens to be made for a in house 14" rotor(will not work in either 100/tundra setup) that happened to have a narrower rotor in the kit and butchered it with similar parts Willwood carries. They have the same caliper that accommodates the wider Tundra rotor @ 1.25. The mounting brackets with the kits were a little confusing on their site so I called their engineer and ran through it all to confirm measurements. The holder they list in their spec sheet is a replacement part without shims and mounting. I got this sorted out and came up with 250-14666(includes all needed parts to mount). Per spec, it should be completely bolt on for both 4 Runner and the 80 similar to your OEM 4Runner calipers. The only difference is the mounting rail and bracket is longer and accommodates the big daddy Tundra rotor at 14" along with the adjusted caliper placement the 4 runner 6 piston upgrade kit uses along with their 14" rotor upgrade. As you know you cant use their 4Runner rotor unfortunately so why I had to break up the kit. In theory, and double checking measurements all alignments, mounting and rotor diameter should work. As listed before, I'm already running 18" rims and will try those first if all goes well to check clearance for 95% of everyone running 17". They state the caliper is made for an 18" rim minimum and will not work on 17"'s but you never know.
In the 3rd picture posted it sort of shows their mounting and how it relates to the caliper. All factory shim capable so adjustments can be made inward and out for minor alignment if needed. Hopefully with fingers crossed it's a non issue but good to know they manufacture these to account for this.
They pitch this upgrade kit to be OEM 4 Runner MC or booster compatible, I forget which they use, so I hope to have no pedal issues as you guys don't seem to be having but got the larger T100 MC for backup. The caliper isn't as big as I thought it would be but thinking similar to the OEM 4Runner with 6 piston instead. Hopefully, I'll get it tested here soon, if not I can report back until February when my re-gear is done and just do it all at once.

 

[Willy beamin]

Well, ya'all done got me sucked into this madness. Going over all parts, everything seems to be in order. Hope to start wrenching by weeks end. Crossing fingers this all goes together well or I have some expensive ass paperweights. Thanks to @I Lean for the machine work and timely return on the hubs and rotors. He did all lathe, drilling and press work. Nice work man, and thanks again for the help. Decided to take it to the next level and add a little bling, f&*% it. I'm sure not for everyone but it is for me. It all looks small in the pictures but it's definitely SUPERSIZED. Likely triple the cost minus rims and tires that was originally posted using the OEM 100 rotors and OEM 4runner calipers but she has been neglected for some time so time to make up to her.
Hub bearing grease not included in picture and the T100 MC will be a later phase with likely a brake line ABS/ LSPV delete. Also long overdue. I would like to do some before / after stops and see what the actual improvement is and tweak as I go and feel necessary.
View attachment 2513881
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Im a Schluter distributor - Schluter is a great product no doubt, good choice. And it makes for a vibrant background for truck parts photos shoot!

 

[on the rocks]

That's funny, was wondering if anyone would notice that... Good stuff and the real deal. Too bad its the only thing in this picture not from overseas, even that is made in Canada...

Ok, so I updated the parts list (post #122) and figure roughly ~$2400-$2500 in total to do this minus labor which I may have to cough up if I cant fit this in soon. Keep in mind I wanted to go a little further and do Hubs and bearings, 20 YO and going 37's, seems smart to me. Without this maybe pushing sub $2K. Will try to get this in over the Christmas break if I get one. The 4Runner OEM route certainly cheaper from what I saw on an earlier post. The T100 MC is factored in here and possibly not necessary, no replacement dust shield which seems to be a bit of a challenge to get figured out. For now I will cut mine down flush to fit the larger rotors but leave them on.

 

[eimkeith]

i'm following (for use on a custom axle using 80 outers & 9.5 diff for 37s on my Taco)

 

[on the rocks]

I had a small window this weekend to start checking fitment. Some went good and some not so good. Unfortunately my window is gone for likely another month or more. A Lot on the plate so going to revisit after my axle rebuild and re-gear in February. Will proceed with the M14 swap front/ rear, certainly an upgrade worthy in itself and will be done when the axles are out.
Caliper mount- driver side fitment was just slightly off, back side against the birf had to be shaved very slightly to be able to mount. Spent a lot of time with a file to get it to mount without binding. Not a huge deal but unfortunately not bolt on. I tried to get a picture of how much I took off but it was so slight it didnt show, one item to note if I can pull this off. OEM mount Bolt fitment and spacing was great and as expected after I got it to fit.
Now the bad on the mounts. After getting the hub and rotor on and tightened up I went to put on the caliper and it was slightly off. 5MM or .21" and unfortunately the caliper pushed too far inward. The mount comes with shims but only to shim inward and add diameter as needed. No way to shim it in either other direction(out, less diameter). 5mm doesn't sound like much but it's about what was shaved from the face of the hub to get here. I dont think another 5mm would be smart. I'll call Wilwood and see if they have an option with a 5mm offset. They have ton of mounts. If not I'm considering machining off the front of the bracket where it mounts to the birf, maybe a combo of hub and mount to split the difference. Wishing I had a CNC machine and the skills, it doesn't look too difficult to fab a new caliper mount. The specs did mention the kit may push the wheel out on the 4 runner so wasn't too worried but surprised to see it was the opposite on the mount and actually pulled everything in.

rotor- Everything seemed to go as expected here. mounted up nicely, unfortunately even with a pad pulled it was just off enough I couldn't get the caliper to slide on but measured everything out and it looked good diameter wise and the caliper with pads fit on it snug. The 80 rotor is actually the same thickness so I decided to mount the old hub/ rotor combo and try the caliper and still 5mm off. Seems the hub was machined just about right but maybe could use .1mm more to line the same. With the diameter spacer pulled on the caliper mount this caliper looked to work on the OEM 80 rotor. the face was very close if not exact as the tundra. If I can get the alignment sorted I will actually check the fitment to the 80 rotor just for the hell of it. Betting the 6 piston will fit in a 17" rim.

Overall clearance. From what I could fit and measure, plenty of clearance in all directions for adjustment, Especially in the 5mm I need to gain outward.

dust shield- unfortunately I have one cut now lol. All good I will get this or the 4runner/ 100 on eventually. Actually a ton of room with the rotor on the outside of the hub.
Made me think you could machine the spindle mount down or easily machine the hub inwards and pull it in 5mm.... likely not going there though.

side note- these raceline rims are beefy SOB's, going to have to look for longer M14 x 1.5 studs. would have left the new machined hub on with the 80 rotor on the rear until sorted but I need a 1/4" spacer from the machined face of the hub and the possible issue with length of studs. Going to work to make this happen by axle time. It was painful putting that old hub and bearing back on with the old oil soaked grease...

caliper port- 1/8-24 NPT female thread. More to come on this...

 

[on the rocks]

Made a little progress, just down to finding time to try another fitment. Found a great affordable local machinist that said he could make an entire new caliper mount bracket with the correct offset and no mill off the factory Wilwood bracket if necessary. Plenty of meat left on the bracket after he machined it down so see no need for it and the engineer at Wilwood actually recommended it to fit, which I was surprised to hear.
Waiting for the brake line to connect the caliper and will move forward, will update part number in post #122 once I receive it and know it works. At this time I'm way off the buy and bolt on you guys started with but do know this will work now, just a matter of patience and time to get it done. Done drifted here from the original affordable route but all good.

* side note, after going through pages and pages of Wilwood bracket mount kits, they have a Wrangler bracket that "looks" to have a better offset and correct mount spacing. No idea where I put the part number for reference but may look at if I run into issues. May be a better fit with less machining necessary.

 

[on the rocks]

Got both front calipers on and working. Bled the entire system with Wilwood recommended brake fluid and took it for a drive. Followed the bedding process per Wilwood and so far I love the improvement. I have a few more things to button up but can tell a big improvement over stock. Pedal feels good and not sure the MC needs upsized but I will likely finish the system off with the larger T100 larger bore and new rear calipers, LSVP, possible ABS delete. Upsized the tires and wheels (148lb fat pigs) at the same time so its hard to compare the pre 18” and 35’s but I know its better by feel alone. Did some measurements on stopping distance pre Wilwood and need to unload all the junk and get a few miles on them before I kill myself with flying cruiser parts laying in the back and just make sure everything functions well and compare stopping distance pre/ post.
Couple to do items:
- Reached out to Wilwood for caliper mount bolt sleeves, the set in the kit throws the mounting too far out. Stacked some washers to get the placement right. Yet to hear back, once replaced I’ll update size and do a solid full on 40-0 stop test. Mounts are solid but not happy until the correct spacers with minimal shims are in( basically washers from manufacture)
- Brake lines and fitting are a bit long but work fine, also reached out for shorter lengths, again no response yet.
- 17” fitment. Not 100% sure. 16” will not work, 18” runs about .847 clearance between caliper and rim. Possibly with correctly placed weights they would work. If I come across a 17” wheel that will fit I can measure.
- no dust boots on these so we will see how that goes but not concerned at all at this point. She doesn’t get out much and doing research they claim they do a ton of offroad racing with these calipers.
- mounting bolts stick out a bit more but zero clearance issues. Tons of room in all directions.

18’s

20’s. Plenty of room and some. Makes the tundra rotors look small again...

Can’t remember if the space was from the mounting studs, they can be trimmed back if so.

Inside clearance shot 18’s

Washers to be replaced with correct spacer sleeves before she see’s much road time. As mentioned very solid mount tho.

 

[on the rocks]

Some parts will look loose in pictures but trust me went through everything many times. Nothing will fall off yet...
Possible working rear sets to match but have tons of other things to massage so likely getting a set of OEM rears and color matched as well as possible. Likely with improved fronts I can ditch the proportioning valve but will probably install anyway. Not sure I have seen one but like the idea of a rear LSVP mount area for the manual valve and maybe add the remote dial back on the bumper or inside. Makes sense to adjust when loading a trailer.

 

[BayArea80]

Thanks for the detailed write up @on the rocks . I had been wrestling with this idea in my head for a while, albeit with the A few follow up questions for you:

1. Did Wilwood end up getting you squared away with the correct caliper mount bolt sleeves? It would seem, like you suggested, that we could use these with the 200 series rotors by adjusting the size of these sleeves accordingly, right?
2. Were you able to try some 17's on to see if they would fit?
3. Do you know if Wilwood sells a shorter caliper bolt? It looks like the length might protrude past the caliper which may be an issue with those of us trying to squeeze these under 17's
4. Did you end up swapping to the T100 MC? If so, was that worthwhile?

 

[on the rocks]

Thanks for the detailed write up @on the rocks . I had been wrestling with this idea in my head for a while, albeit with the A few follow up questions for you:

1. Did Wilwood end up getting you squared away with the correct caliper mount bolt sleeves? It would seem, like you suggested, that we could use these with the 200 series rotors by adjusting the size of these sleeves accordingly, right?
2. Were you able to try some 17's on to see if they would fit?
3. Do you know if Wilwood sells a shorter caliper bolt? It looks like the length might protrude past the caliper which may be an issue with those of us trying to squeeze these under 17's
4. Did you end up swapping to the T100 MC? If so, was that worthwhile?

Looks like I left some things on the table yet lol. I'll have to go back in and tie this to my build better and see if I can follow up a bit better.
1. Nope, their internal part reference system is a joke on tracking what they have available. There is a link to parts I would list but it's been a while, it's 100's of pages with specs to sort you have access to online. I ultimately took the spacers they provided and had the shop that machined the mounts down take them down a bit and ditched the washer stack. Their engineering group is very responsive and willing to work with you but their database is horrible and they aren't much help on available solutions/ parts unless you know exactly what your looking for. Every time I talked to one of the guys they claimed they are working on this. I think it would be a game changer for them.

2. Another no go. I would be happy to fit a rim on if someone local had one to test. it did look close but promising on the 18's I had. Keep in mind they say 18" minimum on the kit I hobbled together. Ultimately I think they are erroring on the cautions side but it is close.

3. Unlikely, with the 100's of available caliper solutions they have its slim to none they have the correct parameters to line up perfect. If I remember correct this was the closest potential rubbing point but it doesn't stick out as much as the picture shows. It would gain you a bit without a doubt. I would suggest having someone machine them down or simply cut and file them. The brackets are fairly inexpensive if you gum one up. I actually bought and carry a spare assuming this would be a failure point if I ever had one. Unlikely this will ever happen with running on them a while.

4. I did get one from Cruiser outfitters but decided to hold off as I may ditch the MC and go hydraulic. Still holding on this but TBH the brakes work amazing with the OEM MC. Zero need that I see for this upgrade at this time but I just had bigger fish to fry on my 80. pedal still feels fine and I noticed very little to any difference on the feel.

Overall, your far from bolt on where I took this but certainly not too difficult. The other guys on here did take the much simpler and by far cheaper route with I'm betting similar results. If I get a minute to do a 40-0 test. I did mark the street on my pre test and did do a check when I put it together and got it up and running and easily improved to mark BY FAR but also was being a bit cautious and didn't give it all I had on the post test, keep in mind this is now with 149lb wheel/ tire combo I didn't have pre upgrade. Absolutely zero regrets here doing this. Only issue to date was a ONE OFF situation going down an extremely steep hill with cold wet calipers and they were having a hard time biting but it was so steep and wet the emergency brake wasn't even helping much. On and off road to date they are amazing and when time/ $$$ permits I want to pair up the rears...

Couple other things I have noticed:
- The calipers aren't as big as I expected but not a bad thing. I think they went with rim sizes being an issue and focused on the piston count for their calipers. The OEM calipers these guys used, I bet are close in size and probably get similar results but those 6 piston make a huge difference over the smaller 80 calipers from what I'm experiencing
- Keep in mind, the pistons have no seals on these but zero issues to date. I don't get out much and there is so little clearance on the rotor surface I don't see mud affecting them much but just an opinion. Parts are cheap and easy to come by for a rebuild and I see no issues so not worried a bit here.
- Consider a 105 series rotor if you don't do the upsize tundra rotors, they are already 6 lug and could save a step drilling them out. Just a total guess. And zero issues drilling these.
- Keep an eye on the 300 series setup. This could be a game changer for an upgrade. Looking over pictures and what they have released, they look even more promising for carryover parts and the 6 lug hubs....
Good luck!

 

[BayArea80]

Looks like I left some things on the table yet lol. I'll have to go back in and tie this to my build better and see if I can follow up a bit better.
1. Nope, their internal part reference system is a joke on tracking what they have available. There is a link to parts I would list but it's been a while, it's 100's of pages with specs to sort you have access to online. I ultimately took the spacers they provided and had the shop that machined the mounts down take them down a bit and ditched the washer stack. Their engineering group is very responsive and willing to work with you but their database is horrible and they aren't much help on available solutions/ parts unless you know exactly what your looking for. Every time I talked to one of the guys they claimed they are working on this. I think it would be a game changer for them.

2. Another no go. I would be happy to fit a rim on if someone local had one to test. it did look close but promising on the 18's I had. Keep in mind they say 18" minimum on the kit I hobbled together. Ultimately I think they are erroring on the cautions side but it is close.

3. Unlikely, with the 100's of available caliper solutions they have its slim to none they have the correct parameters to line up perfect. If I remember correct this was the closest potential rubbing point but it doesn't stick out as much as the picture shows. It would gain you a bit without a doubt. I would suggest having someone machine them down or simply cut and file them. The brackets are fairly inexpensive if you gum one up. I actually bought and carry a spare assuming this would be a failure point if I ever had one. Unlikely this will ever happen with running on them a while.

4. I did get one from Cruiser outfitters but decided to hold off as I may ditch the MC and go hydraulic. Still holding on this but TBH the brakes work amazing with the OEM MC. Zero need that I see for this upgrade at this time but I just had bigger fish to fry on my 80. pedal still feels fine and I noticed very little to any difference on the feel.

Overall, your far from bolt on where I took this but certainly not too difficult. The other guys on here did take the much simpler and by far cheaper route with I'm betting similar results. If I get a minute to do a 40-0 test. I did mark the street on my pre test and did do a check when I put it together and got it up and running and easily improved to mark BY FAR but also was being a bit cautious and didn't give it all I had on the post test, keep in mind this is now with 149lb wheel/ tire combo I didn't have pre upgrade. Absolutely zero regrets here doing this. Only issue to date was a ONE OFF situation going down an extremely steep hill with cold wet calipers and they were having a hard time biting but it was so steep and wet the emergency brake wasn't even helping much. On and off road to date they are amazing and when time/ $$$ permits I want to pair up the rears...

Couple other things I have noticed:
- The calipers aren't as big as I expected but not a bad thing. I think they went with rim sizes being an issue and focused on the piston count for their calipers. The OEM calipers these guys used, I bet are close in size and probably get similar results but those 6 piston make a huge difference over the smaller 80 calipers from what I'm experiencing
- Keep in mind, the pistons have no seals on these but zero issues to date. I don't get out much and there is so little clearance on the rotor surface I don't see mud affecting them much but just an opinion. Parts are cheap and easy to come by for a rebuild and I see no issues so not worried a bit here.
- Consider a 105 series rotor if you don't do the upsize tundra rotors, they are already 6 lug and could save a step drilling them out. Just a total guess. And zero issues drilling these.
- Keep an eye on the 300 series setup. This could be a game changer for an upgrade. Looking over pictures and what they have released, they look even more promising for carryover parts and the 6 lug hubs....
Good luck!

Thanks for the detailed response @on the rocks

I spent a fair amount of time on the Wilwood site last night and agree it would benefit them greatly if they had some way to filter out all the parts.

You touched on a point that I was thinking about last night, which was overall piston area of the calipers. The narrow SL6 calipers are definitely compact and have a smaller overall piston area when compared to the 5th gen 4R calipers and only slightly larger than the stock 80 series caliper. Which supports why the setup is working without issue on your stock MC.

I did some measurements based on the template on Wilwood's site for the 14" kit and I think it might justtttttttt clear the 17's since I've got a wheel spacer. It's hard to be 100% sure until I have everything in my hands, at which point it will I might end up with some Tundra paperweights.

As for the 105 series, I did a quick search and it looks like they were 5 lug. Another 80 owner is looking into the 2022 Tundra rotors as they are also 6 lug.

 

[peacesells63]

Thanks for the detailed response @on the rocks

I spent a fair amount of time on the Wilwood site last night and agree it would benefit them greatly if they had some way to filter out all the parts.

You touched on a point that I was thinking about last night, which was overall piston area of the calipers. The narrow SL6 calipers are definitely compact and have a smaller overall piston area when compared to the 5th gen 4R calipers and only slightly larger than the stock 80 series caliper. Which supports why the setup is working without issue on your stock MC.

I did some measurements based on the template on Wilwood's site for the 14" kit and I think it might justtttttttt clear the 17's since I've got a wheel spacer. It's hard to be 100% sure until I have everything in my hands, at which point it will I might end up with some Tundra paperweights.

As for the 105 series, I did a quick search and it looks like they were 5 lug. Another 80 owner is looking into the 2022 Tundra rotors as they are also 6 lug.

The 105's are definitely 5 lug. I have 105 hubs on my 100 series solid axle truck with 105 rotors and 100 series calipers, everything is bolt on. The 105 rotors are 322mm vs 311mm on the 80 series, so a small upgrade of 80 series rotors.

 

[on the rocks]

I did some measurements based on the template on Wilwood's site for the 14" kit and I think it might justtttttttt clear the 17's since I've got a wheel spacer. It's hard to be 100% sure until I have everything in my hands, at which point it will I might end up with some Tundra paperweights.

My kid just got rims for his gen 3 4runner. I'll ask him if they are 17's and see if I can test fit one. I'm pretty sure they would just fit but don't want to steer anyone wrong. I also don't have the spacers but might still have my old set I can throw on first.

As for the 105 series, I did a quick search and it looks like they were 5 lug. Another 80 owner is looking into the 2022 Tundra rotors as they are also 6 lug.

My bad, I meant say do a 105 hub conversion and fit the tundra rotors right on the hubs with no mods. I think @SNLC is doing a conversion on his 80 and may be able to give a little insight. Then your looking at a rim conversion and much more in the rear as well. Completely uncharted territory with the brake conversion and fitment but certainly seems doable and I would think it would match right up. Now I think about it I don't know that would gain you much other than matching rotor/ hub and a little less drilling out the rotors,
The 22 Tundra would certainly be worth looking into, I would be tempted to buy a single rotor just to test fit it. In my case I could even go a bit bigger diameter than the 14". Plenty of room on them 20's here.
As mentioned if you go this route tho @I Lean is right down the road from cruiser outfitters and did a great job for me on picking the parts up and the machining on the rotors, rotor drilling and M14 upgrade, Good honest price to do it also IMO. Absolutely no issues with the drilled out rotors to date here if you go this route. All the guys here did a great job documenting the info so doing it in house would be a big saving if your able to as well.

 

[bryson]

Finished(?) mine up a couple weeks ago too. Big front brakes, and 14mm lug studs all around. Still on the OEM size master cylinder. Machined by @I Lean like many others (thank you).

Followed @Dirty Koala and shortened the banjo bolt to make it fit. I'm not super thrilled with the shortened banjo or lack of brake line retainer on the new caliper, but it seems to work.

Vicious rumor that @cruiseroutfit has a kit in the works for all of this...

 

[cruiseroutfit]

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

When?