Help! Engine Rebuild Needed or small issue overlooked? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 5, 2021
Threads
2
Messages
8
Location
Oregon
Need everyone’s help.

Couple weeks ago my ‘98 LC started shanking at idle and low rpm and CEL came on. Was an hour from home so I limped it to the closest shop that was open on Sunday, CEL light flashing on and off on the way. Noticed some faint ticking too near the end of my ride, about 12 miles.
Small mom and pop shop in a guys yard, got the codes checked. Misfire cylinder 8 was the only code. Left it with them for a couple days and they said they checked everything they knew would cause a misfire and said the plugs and coils were working correctly but the misfire code would jump to different cylinders. They said compression was good and came to the conclusion it was something electrical but I needed to take it to a better equipped shop to properly diagnose.
Get it towed to shop 2. They get working on it today and are having trouble as well. They say that the misfire code is showing up on different cylinders as well (randomly) but they say that there is no compression on #8. They know I did a timing belt/water pump job ~3,000 miles prior to this incident and say that the belt didn’t jump. They think it’s a bent rod/valve or broken cam. Quoted $4,700 if it’s a total rebuild but said it could be less if they get into it and it’s the camshaft not the valves/rods. I asked about the cost of replacing the engine and he said it would probably be cheaper than the $4,700 quote but would have to get back to me with a price.
Haven’t heard back yet and would like to get everyone’s opinion. Part of me still thinks it’s a wire or connection somewhere gone bad because it was running perfectly before it started shaking and I’m not sure why multiple cylinders would be getting misfire codes if just 1 was down on compression. Thanks for reading.
 
So shop 1 had no compression issue and shop 2 has a compression issue, interesting. I would want the shop to do a leak down test on the suspect cylinder to confirm where the compression is going.

That said, I am not sure a single cylinder having compression issue would be triggering a misfire on other random cylinders. Based on what you wrote, I would be suspect of the shop 2 compression test and would guess the problem is something electrical. Is the shop a cruiser specific shop or just a general garage?
 
So shop 1 had no compression issue and shop 2 has a compression issue, interesting. I would want the shop to do a leak down test on the suspect cylinder to confirm where the compression is going.

That said, I am not sure a single cylinder having compression issue would be triggering a misfire on other random cylinders. Based on what you wrote, I would be suspect of the shop 2 compression test and would guess the problem is something electrical. Is the shop a cruiser specific shop or just a general garage?
He did say a leak down test would be the next step if I choose to continue working on the engine. It’s a local shop (not a chain) and not Land Cruiser/Toyota specific.
 
I always like to start with, last service as starting point. But report of #8 good than not, need revisiting. I would rest test cylinder #8, then wet if low, then leak DN if wet inclusive. Scope if bad cylinder rings or valves indicted.

But time belt job, than variable cylinder kick in and out misfires with plugs and coils good. I'd be looking hard at wire hardness down fort of engine. All to often a shop routs wires in front of fan bracket, WRONG! Wire then may rub on drive belt and/or pulleys. The two wire of concern here. Are crank sensor and oil sending unit.

Also check: Cam senor wire, housing block and may need to pull LH timing belt top cover and check wires and sensor mounted properly. Sensor wire get caught on water pump, if not pushed out of the way. Some guys pull the cam sensor. Possibly bolts not re-torqued securing it during assembly.

BTW: I just did compression test. Guy had 3 test done before me. Numbers all over the broad, but all indicating very bad compression. I got ~205 PSI on all 8 vary by ~12PSI, doing by the book w/client in shop. Which is to high. Issue: oil in cylinders. Smoking on start up, bad. No Way other shop did test, with engine at operating temp.

He was quoted $25K new engine at Lexus. Compression not list by cylinder, just 125-130PSI
Next shop said $12K his engine rebuilt. OUCH. 150PSI.
One shop gave numbers on each, all failing.
 
I always like to start with, last service as starting point. But report of #8 good than not, need revisiting. I would rest test cylinder #8, then wet if low, then leak DN if wet inclusive. Scope if bad cylinder rings or valves indicted.

But time belt job, than variable cylinder kick in and out misfires with plugs and coils good. I'd be looking hard at wire hardness down fort of engine. All to often a shop routs wires in front of fan bracket, WRONG! Wire then may rub on drive belt and/or pulleys. The two wire of concern here. Are crank sensor and oil sending unit.

Also check: Cam senor wire, housing block and may need to pull LH timing belt top cover and check wires and sensor mounted properly. Sensor wire get caught on water pump, if not pushed out of the way. Some guys pull the cam sensor. Possibly bolts not re-torqued securing it during assembly.

BTW: I just did compression test. Guy had 3 test done before me. Numbers all over the broad, but all indicating very bad compression. I got ~205 PSI on all 8 vary by ~12PSI, doing by the book w/client in shop. Which is to high. Issue: oil in cylinders. Smoking on start up, bad. No Way other shop did test, with engine at operating temp.

He was quoted $25K new engine at Lexus. Compression not list by cylinder, just 125-130PSI
Next shop said $12K his engine rebuilt. OUCH. 150PSI.
One shop gave numbers on each, all failing.
Great info, thank you. I think I will make sure those specific wires and connections are checked before any more testing is done on the internals, because I really think it’s the culprit. I doubt either shop did tests at running temp because it shakes roughly at idle.
Went on a 5 day, 700 mile roadtrip the week before this and she ran great the whole time. Even averaged 14 mpg with oversized tires. “Only” 196K on the clock. It has to be a wire…
 
There is a Land Cruiser specialty shop 10 minutes away (Landcruiser Specialties). Should I take it there for an expert opinion even though it could be a month before it gets worked on and could be the same conclusion and I would just be even deeper in the hole? Go to Toyota? Or trust these guys to check all the wires necessary?
 
There is a Land Cruiser specialty shop 10 minutes away (Landcruiser Specialties). Should I take it there for an expert opinion even though it could be a month before it gets worked on and could be the same conclusion and I would just be even deeper in the hole? Go to Toyota? Or trust these guys to check all the wires necessary?

You left out one of the alternatives - which is usually the best - and that is to do it yourself. It's not that hard. You've seen how much help is available here.
 
If i were in your position, i would equip myself with Techstream, an engine compression tester, and buy or rent a leakdown tester. Arm yourself with information
 
I like that idea. Have it towed back to my place and have a good look at it myself. At the very least I learn a little and buy time to put together funds in case I do need a rebuild.
 
Amazon has multiple "engine compression testers" for under $20, if you can't manage to borrow one somewhere. Just start with a cold compression test and report back.
 
Following
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom