Builds colonel mustard, in the garage, with a wrench (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Replaced the windshield base weather strip today. Peeled the old crusty one off, cleaned the body with some citrus cleaner and then winded. Used 3M weatherstrip adhesive on the body and then laid the new piece down. Of course I forgot to take a picture until after I got the windshield up. I also noticed my dash was seated into the clips on the front side so I removed the pad abs reinstalled it correctly. Also added the rubber stem that goes around the wiper motor wires. These parts were from cityracer. I guess I need another river stem for the drive side because I have a wire there for the dome lamp. To get the wires through the windshield weatherstrip I just went under the dash and unplugged them.
3047BCBE-FD3F-47B7-B1AA-B126041885FF.jpeg
48DAEF45-81CF-402D-BF69-D5CC5C008810.jpeg
 
Started tearing the top apart. Got it mostly done, need to figure out how to get to the nuts on the last few pieces stuck to the top. Also found these bags of gaskets that Nathan gave me when I bought the truck. Might have most of what I need for the top.
39225AF1-E0F0-4B46-B632-4FF613BD030F.jpeg
D4231D38-C967-477C-9437-0B1B996753F6.jpeg
F5B2B9ED-D4A1-4E53-BED2-E7F5D581F937.jpeg
B872BA1D-0931-4116-8887-F4604B8F37A8.jpeg
DFAC3171-9703-40AD-A617-044D5AA945F8.jpeg
 
Today I made some progress on the top. I drilled and punched all of the rivets. The door trim pieces that are bolted to the top were pretty miserable to remove. One got a little mangled I hate to say. I’ll straighten it the best I can. There is quite a bit of RTV holding the drip rail metal to the cap, it’s coming off slowly.

A5EE1D2E-7098-4EEC-A052-A985F2554AA5.jpeg
291B9993-FD9E-4AB6-B343-F23A0AD90FE5.jpeg
BA196B25-395F-4533-A923-8C57D79CF73E.jpeg
91307EA4-704B-45F9-ABC5-2E4FAABD2F06.jpeg
 
Minor fix, the windshield bumpers were crusty and cracking off so I got a new set.

17794CA1-FB8B-445A-936D-73C47E928014.jpeg
F096F1C8-DAE3-4774-8CC8-C9D6180FBC6F.jpeg
7AD5BD31-9564-4D9D-9E0B-8C9AB99E3EBE.jpeg
 
Some fun cosmetic stuff before the sun went down. Marker lamp lenses and gaskets. And one new side lamp, the other one didn’t come in yet for some reason. Several bulbs were burned out but there were a few Koito bulbs still working! Also found some taped wires that I decided to splice and heat shrink.

42FD691B-86A7-4951-881B-B96FAC37FA37.jpeg
AB4BF8A2-E781-4ADA-B9C1-AF5038B45FAE.jpeg
5C1F1C7C-943C-414F-AB6D-D4854082C197.jpeg
F00F6645-8519-4C40-9FEE-CFF085F1395B.jpeg
C6DB11B4-4A71-440C-9FC5-03F19F119228.jpeg
 
Someone may find this helpful eventually. My rear marker lamps were not grounded as oem, the ground wire looks like it should just loop back to its own mounting screws. My old ones had been cut and grounded elsewhere. So I took some time and found some nuts that would fit the back of the mount screws. It’s an M4x.07 thread, kind of wonky, but I found some at my local ace for about .40 cents.
783CE240-E13C-4FF7-A783-96C2F86F0643.jpeg
 
Looking at replacing, installing the weatherstrips on the side pieces above the fenders and noticed the passenger side way off from the driver side (gap size). This strengthens my theory that it was wrecked in a previous life. I also found two of the four bolts on the frame for the fender support broken off. Looks like I’ll be pulling the passenger fender to drill and tap. Yay. I did a few small things as parts came in. Replaced the rusty striped screws on the glovebox placard, replaced the striped out screws on the cluster gage. And got both of the little rubber tubes in place on the windshield for the wiring looms.
96092985-CD48-4A60-B0C2-0A18155E3C40.jpeg
90B3D42B-600E-43EF-A1C2-EBBF04CCEEE1.jpeg
EF5C98D0-3455-44F6-B248-E2D02FF92BC2.jpeg
FDE25A9A-8609-4F41-A781-01BC4E77B898.jpeg
196B16D3-6A1D-48B8-9A63-50DD0501C0CD.jpeg
 
Looking at replacing, installing the weatherstrips on the side pieces above the fenders and noticed the passenger side way off from the driver side (gap size). This strengthens my theory that it was wrecked in a previous life. I also found two of the four bolts on the frame for the fender support broken off.
Possibly wrecked, but also just possibly re-assembled in a sloppy manner. When I opened the front end of my 40 to do the timing cover seal, and then put things back together, I spent forever getting things to line back up. The front end fits together in so many odd little ways... and you've got two fender bolts not in place... it could just be shoddy re-assembly.
 
I spent a while on a drill a tap today after I pulled the passenger fender. Got the broken bolts removed and slapped a heli coil in there. I was not able to successfully remove the remaining bolt piece unfortunately. I quickly realized I wanted to get the fender back on tonight but I didn’t have the required clips to install the weatherstrip piece, I did some research and it looks like they’re the same clips that hold the door felts in. Since I’m rebuilding my doors anyways, I robbed a felt strip and used the clips.
5531CD16-B7E8-4519-A8F4-5548118A3CAA.jpeg
FAE8FDA0-A22C-4833-8A60-15732B97B487.jpeg
57DC34DB-F5D2-4D16-A520-ECD8E7A51DA8.jpeg
AD75C3AA-98E9-40F2-AA44-358BD9032EDF.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Possibly wrecked, but also just possibly re-assembled in a sloppy manner. When I opened the front end of my 40 to do the timing cover seal, and then put things back together, I spent forever getting things to line back up. The front end fits together in so many odd little ways... and you've got two fender bolts not in place... it could just be shoddy re-assembly.

Pretty sure I read somewhere in the Body/Chassis FSM, that they only assembled those panels under a full moon after sacrificing a chicken. Pre-74 I think they used an Ouija board.
 
Are the front turn signal assemblies supposed to have an external ground wire like this? This wire is obviously not oem but both lamps have. Aground wire on the outside.

8C774D63-37E8-4E2D-8965-4A448DD15231.jpeg
 
I believe I answered my own question about the turn lamps. I suspect the lamps were not working because the ground was dirty so someone added that wire as an extra ground. I wire wheeled the stud and base and they work fine. Also replaced the old rusted base plate screws, they’re an M4x0.7 screw. Got my fender back on and it lined up better than before. When I put the lamp back on I added some loom and shrink at the ends. Lastly I added the base grommets for the turn lamps from racer.

Then went for a 150 mile drive with no issues other than some gnarly sunburn.

6887641C-9FAD-47C4-8852-D4B5BA494503.jpeg
7C988F5C-DBCB-4140-A060-181090ACE892.jpeg
1BC421D3-D9D9-434C-9824-128378EAE6BF.jpeg
7C41D8A0-E148-49B1-B217-A154B34B6FD8.jpeg
 
Diggen’ the PBR garage art. 🍺👈😎😊

45yr old (+) connections and grounds can/will give you fits. I’m sure I’m preaching to the choir but, a little dielectric grease goes along way…
 
I did the side panel weatherstrip on the drive today, all smooth, the. Decided to replace the base screws and pedestal grommet on the driver turn lamp. It had the same strange ground wire on it. I removed it and wire wheeled the base and mount bolt, but it was no good. Would click and come on but not blink. I ran a ground wire with gator clips from one of the m4 screw heads to the fender and it worked fine. Trouble shot for a while and determine the ground issue was between the mounting bolt/stud and the metal plate on the bottom of the lamp. I put a small spot weld on the edge of the stud over to the base plate and it works great now. I forgot to snap a pic of the weld before I slapped the lamp back on, but here’s running various grounds to see where the disconnect was.


549C7425-34D1-4CBB-AACA-9B9DD2C5DF2F.jpeg
10C37265-66A3-49AA-BB13-320F9E643A88.jpeg
 
Tried like hell to punch outlet the pins on the hood hinges, with no success. I did throw some new hardware and gaskets on them but will have to try the hinge pins again another day. Any pointers on those little bastards?

Also was able to source a better condition driver seat bracket, mine was toast.
A5BF02DB-58D3-4477-A902-8D3E3EF32487.jpeg
93279130-D0F3-4B92-A4C4-12D37B6A6F34.jpeg
92F29860-9E0A-44C4-B84E-CD03ECB6474B.jpeg
630354E8-8CA5-47BF-8EAF-144E25A8B7F1.jpeg
 
Tried like hell to punch outlet the pins on the hood hinges, with no success. I did throw some new hardware and gaskets on them but will have to try the hinge pins again another day. Any pointers on those little bastards?

Also was able to source a better condition driver seat bracket, mine was toast.
View attachment 2992217View attachment 2992218View attachment 2992219View attachment 2992220
On those hood hinge pins, I took a “C” clamp and a small pin, put the clamp in a vise, just to hold it, and then tightened the clamp with the pin pushing on the hinge pin. You can either offset the clamp a little so the pin will push out the other side, or if you have a small piece of pipe, you can put that on the other end so the pin can push through and into the pipe. I hope this wasn’t to confusing, it might sound like it, but once it’s all done it’s very simple. I oiled my hinges and then did the “C” clamp and the pins came right out.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom