1HDFT & 1HDFTE observations-discussion (3 Viewers)

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Hypothetical question.

Say you had a 1HDT that was a good runner, with a rebuilt pump and good stuff like that,but was pretty tired and a 1HDFTE 'long block' (basically less some ancilaries and loom/computer), could you swap the timing case and pump off the 1HDT onto the 1HDFTE to achieve a mechanical injection set up since the pump mounts are different?

(Get that it’s an inferior set up to full electronic)

Cheers
More or less - FTE mechanicals are a common conversion here. You end up with the upgraded core parts and a mechanical fuel system.

You can swap the timing gears/case etc. from the 1HD-T, but you need FT injector lines and need to have the FTE injectors reset for the mech pump, and have the pump rebuilt to FT specs. It’s cheaper to have the 1HD-T pump built to FT spec than a 1HZ pump
 
More or less - FTE mechanicals are a common conversion here. You end up with the upgraded core parts and a mechanical fuel system.

You can swap the timing gears/case etc. from the 1HD-T, but you need FT injector lines and need to have the FTE injectors reset for the mech pump, and have the pump rebuilt to FT specs. It’s cheaper to have the 1HD-T pump built to FT spec than a 1HZ pump

Awesome, cheers. I've been looking for an FT for 3 years here in NZ, in that time I've seen 2 come up for sale, and only one was even close to a reasonable price, but the odd FTE pops up too.

I'm not adverse to going FTE with full electronic but staying mechanical would allow me to use the nice bits of my 1HDT and recoup some costs by flogging the FTE bits - pump and injectors likely.
 
So when using ARPs, all the studs around the cam need to be shortened. This due to clearance of the cam lobes to the top of the stud. Only needed on studs that will interfere with cam lobes.

We have been having the machine shop remove 2mm from the head bolt (stud) seat so that we don’t need to modify the studs.

Cheers
 
So when using ARPs, all the studs around the cam need to be shortened. This due to clearance of the cam lobes to the top of the stud. Only needed on studs that will interfere with cam lobes.

We have been having the machine shop remove 2mm from the head bolt (stud) seat so that we don’t need to modify the studs.

Cheers
Is this on the 1hdt also? Can the head be taken off if engine is installed in vehicle when studs are used? By the looks of it, it looks tight on an 80 series but what do you think?
 
Is this on the 1hdt also? Can the head be taken off if engine is installed in vehicle when studs are used? By the looks of it, it looks tight on an 80 series but what do you think?


No it is just a 24-valve thing.

Ya sure head can be removed with the engine in the Cruiser. We did one last November and put in the ARPs.

Cheers
 
So when using ARPs, all the studs around the cam need to be shortened. This due to clearance of the cam lobes to the top of the stud. Only needed on studs that will interfere with cam lobes.

We have been having the machine shop remove 2mm from the head bolt (stud) seat so that we don’t need to modify the studs.

Cheers
Do you have part numbers for studs that you're willing to share? 12 valve and 24 valve?
 
Do you have part numbers for studs that you're willing to share? 12 valve and 24 valve?


No because you can only get them from Australia.

Cheers
 
All good had thought as much. I'm in NZ so should be slightly easier to get hold of.

Number of suppliers in Oz but all the sets we have got have come from Diesel Performance Parts. They are very expensive FYI.

Cheers
 
Number of suppliers in Oz but all the sets we have got have come from Diesel Performance Parts. They are very expensive FYI.

Cheers
Yeah roger that. Had a search and saw your previous posts. Hadn't cottoned on that they were a custom order for the Aussie suppliers, so makes sense that there aren't part numbers etc.

On the cost, I guess its cheap insurance against lifting a head/gasket - that upfront cost would save downtime and doing it again later.
 
Tearing another FT down for rebuild. This one is from the UK.

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8BEFB4CC-B125-4964-9F1A-CAB40BD34C8D.jpeg
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Cheers
 
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Only real bummer so far is the pan is toast along this side from rust. This is an 80-series FT pan which is unobtanium.

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Block under the corroded pan seems alright though.


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Cheers
 
Both of these are from @chapel gate and both look to have excellent bottom ends. Heads look pretty good too. Will know more as we work through building long blocks on the engine stands.

Cheers
 
Rebuilding the above FTE now. Bores were a little out of spec so going to .50 over. I see @Moridinbg mentions something about pistons perhaps being different depending on the FTE.

Looking at HDJ79 and HDJ100 (02-07) in the EPC there are two different part #'s and cost is 50% more on the HDJ79 pistons.

For the 79 part number is: 13103-17120
For the HDJ100 part number is: 13103-17110

Neither of these are EGR equip FTE's. Another curious thing is in the EPC it shows only .50 over available for the 100 while the 79 shows both .50 and .75.

So does anybody have any idea what might be the difference in these two .50 over pistons? I would think nothing but the price difference has me questioning.

Cheers
 
The clue might be looking at injector part numbers. The bowl in the piston often needs to match the injector.


Part numbers are definitely different for injectors between the two as well. I will probably just go with the 100 FTE pistons since that is what the block is but I am curious. I thought I remember something about one having a better piston design as well but searching doesn't bring up any discussions.

Cheers
 
According to this the FTE has the better piston design….
 

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