Builds 1965 Seminole Red FJ45 SWB (2 Viewers)

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Got after it early today and ran into my first problem.

See, we repurposed the motor and all of the associated hardware to the Green 71 Im building. Im trying not to grab random stuff from that setup for this one as I’ll just have to hunt it all down again.

Cam gave me a couple of motor mounts. One was the 60 AC style. I’ve used in the past on other motors. Never in a 40 obviously or I would have trimmed all that crap off if it or just bored the holes out on one of the long side F mounts I have.
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Turns out that’s where the battery goes.
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Band saw and flap disc to the rescue.
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Painted it and now I have a battery tray.
 
Next I decided to fit the headers and manifold. Last night I soaked up some good M12 #7s I found and they looked good this am after a night in evaporust and a few minutes in the media shaker.

Because the crossover pipe was so hard to adapt on the MAF 2 piece headers we decided to give the SOR 2 piece a whirl this time.

They “would” have fit just right by the Mini Truck PS box is too tight so I had to bash it a bit on one tube to clear. Nice fit though after that. Super tight and the Y pipe they sell is a much better setup for a narrow 40 frame

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Very nice work. Been following your stuff for years. I would like to know the length of the belt spinning the alternator and power steering pump. The belt on my 2FE could be shorter. I'm running out of adjustment for the power steering.
Thanks, Jim
 
Very nice work. Been following your stuff for years. I would like to know the length of the belt spinning the alternator and power steering pump. The belt on my 2FE could be shorter. I'm running out of adjustment for the power steering.
Thanks, Jim
Sorry I don’t know. They are stock FJ60 air pump and alternator belts
 
Thanks Nolen.
 
Fitting this giant custom Mosley radiator with Spal takes a bit of customization but in the end it fits with a little egging of the radiator mounts, squaring of the frame and pushing the radiator support rod a bit

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Also, I attempted to put a Sniper 2GC on the truck but the way it stacks both adapters at the bottom it was hitting the brake master. I was hoping to also try to monkey an early air cleaner on it but the PS pump just won’t allow it.

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Tried and true and they throttle cable was still broken here and plug and play thanks to JP

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maybe you can put that 2F pump in a 3FE bracket? I just did this setup to run a early air cleaner, kinda a lot of work to get to that point where you are now though since you have PS lines done already
 
This thing turned out so damn slick.

So, the side pieces get trimmed down. Three of the holes line up with plenty of frame. One is on the hole in the frame.

It just so happens, the captive M8 nuts on the angle iron line up perfect with the top bolts to make a huge washer that spreads the load across the top two bolts.

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Like this

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Here it is pre paint

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It’s in the inside paint dry booth over night. I’ll bolt it all up tomorrow and get final photos


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You might want to add a shim to fit the shape of the hole in the frame where 4th bolt of the cross member sits.
These bolts are strong enough to lift the car by in stretch but in shear they are weak. In the current situation only 3 bolts contribute to holding the cross member. By filling up the hole below the 4th bolt all 4 contribute.
 
I’m not at all worried about the thickness of the metal at the frame. That’s how Toyota did it in the FJ60 but of course with 4 full bolts, not 3 and the sandwich plate.

Remember, there is a big fat rubber cushion mount back there to take the pressure of sheer off.
 
While I was doing all this I had the passenger rear motor mount loosely bolted in for safety and also to make sure the driveline was close to where Mr Toyota approved it to be.

In the end I moved the rear about 3/4” to the drivers side to make it fit the tunnel better.

See the screwdriver as reference

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Final photos.
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Authors note…..in the past I’ve used short H42/split case combos. The late 60 combo and H55combo add 4” to the length. That is why I’ve had fitment issues versus the other 6-7 split case installs I’ve done. Also, the shorter combo has always allowed me to push the case and therefore the crossmember up nearly 2” making the crossmember an easy to weld/fab deal that comes off the bottom of the frame using only the center section and flat steel.
 
I’m not at all worried about the thickness of the metal at the frame. That’s how Toyota did it in the FJ60 but of course with 4 full bolts, not 3 and the sandwich plate.

Remember, there is a big fat rubber cushion mount back there to take the pressure of sheer off.
I love your work and this is why I mentioned it, I’m not trying to start a discussion here.

Its just that the extra bolt actually weakens your connection as it cannot form a pressure body.
The bolts will not withstand the shear, the friction between the bracket and the frame do. By adding the 4th bolt this way you are changing the load of the other positions and effectively creating a pivot point. Adding a washer the thickness of the frame would counter that, adding a slightly larger plate that touches the bottom of the hole would even make it better.

I have seen stranger things happen from the weird dynamics in a bolted connection.
 
This is why we did a custom trans tunnel in the 67 pickup. To push the trans and tcase up there really is no other choice. This is also why say an H151 will be difficult to fit in an old 40-series. It is big for one but it also pushes the shifter way back compared to an H55.

Cheers
 

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