Builds ‘82 FJ45 build thread..... no name yet (1 Viewer)

[sloanstavern]

Thank you for the quick reply.

I'm using American Autowire harness kit, and they supply GM type connectors (guess I just use them).

Thanks again.

Cool - Let me know how you like the AA harness.

 

[rickpaw]

Cool - Let me know how you like the AA harness.

I like them. Use them in 3 different vehicles so far.

The wiring on my FJ40 is almost done, except for the column connections, and misc odds/ends

 

[sloanstavern]

I like them. Use them in 3 different vehicles so far.

The wiring on my FJ40 is almost done, except for the column connections, and misc odds/ends

We are at about the same point. I am wrapping up the instrument cluster now. I have Temp, Fuel, and Turn signals working . Plan on doing Oil and spedo today. Not sure what I will do with the Am meter.

Did you / Can you figure that last one out?

 

[rickpaw]

We are at about the same point. I am wrapping up the instrument cluster now. I have Temp, Fuel, and Turn signals working . Plan on doing Oil and spedo today. Not sure what I will do with the Am meter.

Did you / Can you figure that last one out?

Yes. I have the plugs from the AA kit for column mounted ignition switch, but I don't have the actual column switch that those plugs plug into. I have a bunch of Delphi connectors that I'll use instead. My FJ40 is more of a resto mod, nothing is original other than the body (although most of the panels had been replaced).

 

[sloanstavern]

Nice progress today- I now have Spedo, Temp, Oil, and Fuel on the new OEM instrument cluster. Not sure what I’m going to do about Amp meter. I have a after market volt meted confirming charge.

 

[Living in the Past]

You didn't happen to have the old exhaust? With the first piece of pipe and almost stock from the CAT back pretty well have my 79 FJ40 figured out. My 45 on the other hand I don't. It's a 65 with a 2F. Has a header and exhaust run between the transfer case and frame then out in front of the rear wheel. Have a late model spare tire carrier with the winch. I even had some OEM style exhaust.hangers.

 

[Living in the Past]

What year is the Instrument cluster? Can tell by the odometer it is pre 8/80. 1/79 the amp meter went from 30 to 50 amps. There was also a separate plug for it on the back.

 

[sloanstavern]

You didn't happen to have the old exhaust? With the first piece of pipe and almost stock from the CAT back pretty well have my 79 FJ40 figured out. My 45 on the other hand I don't. It's a 65 with a 2F. Has a header and exhaust run between the transfer case and frame then out in front of the rear wheel. Have a late model spare tire carrier with the winch. I even had some OEM style exhaust.hangers.

Sorry I do not have it. They scavanged the manifold flange, and the down pipe had several splices in it

 

[sloanstavern]

I’m in the throws of a bad brake problem that does not appear to have a painless solution.

But life goes on:

Got the front doors finished, new OEM antenna, the OEM carb was a no go so I got a City racer, out of the box started right up, I need to tune it when I can get her outside.

Made some sparks, a crank to lower the spare tire, and made a jerry can rack, not OEM, but it will work and captures the spirit of OEM, just need to find some cotton webbing and buckle’s

 

[Living in the Past]

I’m in the throws of a bad brake problem that does not appear to have a painless solution.

But life goes on:

Got the front doors finished, new OEM antenna, the OEM carb was a no go so I got a City racer, out of the box started right up, I need to tune it when I can get her outside.

Made some sparks, a crank to lower the spare tire, and made a jerry can rack, not OEM, but it will work and captures the spirit of OEM, just need to find some cotton webbing and buckle’s
View attachment 2961580

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Wasn't the OEM rod to lower spare available anymore? It was same 1005MM one used on the late FJ55s. I bought for my FJ45 years ago. Unfortunately Amayama's diagram aren't working for me the last couple of days to look up the number.

 

[sloanstavern]

Wasn't the OEM rod to lower spare available anymore? It was same 1005MM one used on the late FJ55s. I bought for my FJ45 years ago. Unfortunately Amayama's diagram aren't working for me the last couple of days to look up the number.

Did not check - I’ll take a look see

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Wasn't the OEM rod to lower spare available anymore? It was same 1005MM one used on the late FJ55s. I bought for my FJ45 years ago. Unfortunately Amayama's diagram aren't working for me the last couple of days to look up the number.

52177	HANDLE, STARTING OR SPARE WHEEL CARRIER
51481-65010	L=1005

Discontinued

 

[sloanstavern]

Today I think I solved a nagging break problem I’ve been chasing for weeks thanks to some tips on another link. So to celebrate I started putting together some more finished sub assemblies.

I fabricated some side panel supports painted them to match and installed not factory but it makes a huge difference. Test fitted The jerrycan and carrier, I know it should be pewter but I couldn’t find a color that matched that Jerry can I have some canvas webbing on order and will make up the restating straps shortly. I’ve got the doors. And even put back the KSA license plate very very satisfying

This was the first time I could truly test drive it with the new city racer carburetor, wow what a difference idols rocksolid good power with very little adjustment necessary could not be happier

 

[sloanstavern]

Making progress on the remaining items. I could not find a gas can bracket that fit my OEM canister so I made one up, may not copy exact but I think it captures the spirit.

Im mounting the rear doors and most of the internals of the latching door Are missing I don’t believe they’re in production anymore so I may have to Jerry rig something to make it work.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Looks good. I was able to get all new or NOS parts for the doors but it took me a while. All of those parts interchange with the 40 series.

 

[sloanstavern]

I was pleasantly surprised to find I still had both doorstops, for some reason I thought they were missing took a little cleaning and straightening but I think they’ll work just fine.

I took her for a little drive yesterday just to check the brakes and some other things and forgot I had not put enough food in her belly. Luckily I was only a short stroll from home and that was an easy fix

Next week I will make the go no go decision about listing her for sale. My shop closes down for the summer in may and if I can get her far enough along I think I’ll try and sell her. I have not decided what path to take yet either online auction or simply list for sale but I’ll make that call next week

 

[sloanstavern]

Continuing to make progress on the punchlist. Got an interior dome light, buttoned up some wiring in the engine bay, and today put the finishing touches on the rear door latch assembly. Bought a factory replacement passenger side handle just waiting for the lock cylinder to appear. The driver side was another story as it came to me the door was held shut with some sliding deadbolts a.k.a. window hardware. I only had 20% of the remaining hardware available to me and both sliding deadbolts were missing. Luckily I found these on eBay from another land cruiser owner who fabricated his own they fit perfect and the quality was exceptional 130 bucks for the pair so I was very happy. I was able to repurpose some connecting rods from the old door hardware and she works pretty good

 

[sloanstavern]

Sometimes you scratch the big check for an OEM part and it brings you no joy, that was not the case today I replaced the rear door latch, key cylinder , and splurged on a leather key case for my friends a Toyota I could just stare at those things all night…..
So now to factory keys open every lock on the vehicle, quite an upgrade from the deadbolts and paddle locks are used to have

 

[sloanstavern]

This morning I went out for her longest shakedown drive yet about 10 miles in a combination of side streets and 55 mile an hour highway. She pulls good runs good and the breaking is perfect! Nice and responsive and does not Paul either direction. I do get an occasional pop out of the muffler after I push in the clutch at higher revs.

After I got home I checked the temperature and the engine is nice and cool brakes are reasonable, the rear ones are a bit warmer in the front so I might back them off one notch.

I do have an issue with the timing however simply loosening the retaining bolt affects the timing mark. So I loosen the nut set the dot right on the pointer and watching it with the strobe light as I tighten the retaining nut the timing mark moves out of view. I cannot think of a mechanism that would cause that to happen any suggestions would be appreciated

Also I lost oil pressure reading and fuel reading on my new instrument cluster, when I plug in the old one I still get oil pressure so something must’ve happened inside the new cluster. I have no idea what’s in there other than the gauges I don’t believe it’s fused in any fashion

 

[sloanstavern]

So I tore into the distributor and think I found the root cause, the mounting clamp was not fully seated at the top of the shaft. Therefore every time I loosen be at the shop could move a little bit. Then I took that busy apart and found the springs and internals caked with grime. Once I got them moving freely put it back together and the timing is nice and steady.

I was missing and could not find the defroster vents so in the interim I just fabricated some plates to close those openings. Also put together an interior knob for the rear door.

A big day today, I met the photographer from the online auction site ( BAT) And got a Lotta good pictures near beautiful mountain just 40 miles outside of town.

This was the first extended shakedown drive (80 miles total) and she did quite well the rear brakes got a little hot so I might have to loosen them slightly but they function very well. Never overheated and road like a champ