Ideas for improving the 2LTE (1 Viewer)

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks.

I really need to re-write the first post in this thread. I've learned so much since I wrote it. It was basically my preliminary ideas and preconceptions, but now I've tried everything and gained a lot of knowledge. Ugh, with work and family it's so hard to find time these days.

 

[midlifemechanic]

Glad you're still out there! Interested to hear if the Evans waterless coolant worked out or if there were issues with that - because I intend to do that first ...

Cheers.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Glad you're still out there! Interested to hear if the Evans waterless coolant worked out or if there were issues with that - because I intend to do that first ...

Cheers.

It's a double edged sword. It doesn't boil, which means the head is at an even temp. This is great as it reduces the stresses in the head that lead to cracking. The downside, is it runs hotter due to the lower specific heat capacity.

So in a nutshell, I've beat the heck of my truck with all the towing etc. I do over the last 10 years and 100,000km, and have had no failure of the head. That said, it does run dang hot under some conditions towing. Has the Evans saved my motor? Probably has. But it's never a comfortable thing seeing the temp needle rise under load.

So my advice would be, if your truck is just a daily driver, a regular coolant mix might be the best way to go. Make sure the fan clutch is in top shape (buy new OEM one if you can). Also buy the newer 2LTE OEM 82C thermostat; it makes all the difference in the world. You can also upgrade to an HJ60 fan - I'm about 99% certain they are bolt in and don't interfere with anything.

Drive the truck with the ECT button off (out of power mode), as the torque converter will lock up sooner. This is good, as the torque converter slipping generates a tremendous amount of extra heat which is dumped into the radiator also.

The other most important thing that drastically improves the motor, is get rid of the EGR system and throttle plates. The European 2LT-II never came with these systems, and was much better off for it. The EGR and throttle plates starve these motors of the air they need, leading to smoky exhaust, and hotter egts. I think the system really fed into the cylinder head problems these engines are known for. You'll also get easier starting and more low end torque.

Finally, but a Manual boost controller, and tune the turbo up to 10-12psi or so. This gives you more power and drivability with no real downside. Just don't go more boost without an intercooler.

 

[midlifemechanic]

Thanks for that. Sounds like the big win is to remove the EGR and throttle plates, but I fear that will cause a fail on emissions test here in the UK. Also worried about what effect that would have on the electronic fuel injection system if some of the sensors are taken out (assuming there is some sensor feedback from the EGR system - I haven't checked).

It is (or should I say - will be - a 'daily driver' and light duty except for occasional holidays when we might use all the 8 seats plus baggage. Do you know how hot it would run on the waterless coolant and if that is necessarily a problem?

I think I'll start with the fan and other simple mods with a decent glycol coolant and see how it goes ....

Intercooler sounds like a good idea to cool turbo input air - I guess no such part exists for the 2-LTE engine - any experience of retrofitting?

Grateful for the input. Cheers.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks for that. Sounds like the big win is to remove the EGR and throttle plates, but I fear that will cause a fail on emissions test here in the UK. Also worried about what effect that would have on the electronic fuel injection system if some of the sensors are taken out (assuming there is some sensor feedback from the EGR system - I haven't checked).

It is (or should I say - will be - a 'daily driver' and light duty except for occasional holidays when we might use all the 8 seats plus baggage. Do you know how hot it would run on the waterless coolant and if that is necessarily a problem?

I think I'll start with the fan and other simple mods with a decent glycol coolant and see how it goes ....

Intercooler sounds like a good idea to cool turbo input air - I guess no such part exists for the 2-LTE engine - any experience of retrofitting?

Grateful for the input. Cheers.

Emissions test could be a problem for sure. But I can assure you there is no sensor feedback from the emissions back to the ECU.

If you're not towing, the waterless coolant won't run too much hotter than regular. Not sure how to quantify that exactly, as I never took careful notes. Maybe 5C hotter under high load?

The 82C t-stat is the other big deal item that makes a huge difference. Part number is: 16340-54040

Just do some searching on intercoolers on ih8mud. There are lots of examples in LJ7x now of air/air and air/water types.

 

[midlifemechanic]

Awesome, thanks.

Do you know if anyone has done a step-by-step guide to removing the EGR? Plating off the appertures at the manifold and air intake end is easy enough, but what about the control valve and vacuum hose connected - does the whole thing come off and what to do with the other end of the vacuum hose - plug it?

Yours hopefully

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

If you do some searching you'll find some how to's. Yes, just cap off the vacuum source (comes over top of engine from vacuum pump on alternator). Make sure to leave vacuum connected to 4x4 VSV's and brake booster of course.... Don't confuse vacuum lines with the boost sensor line either!

Yes, remove the big control valve and all vsv solenoids. Just leave the electrical connectors with nothing on them; it won't hurt them.

Remove the main throttle plate, but DO NOT remove or adjust the throttle position sensor!

 

[midlifemechanic]

If you do some searching you'll find some how to's. Yes, just cap off the vacuum source (comes over top of engine from vacuum pump on alternator). Make sure to leave vacuum connected to 4x4 VSV's and brake booster of course.... Don't confuse vacuum lines with the boost sensor line either!

Yes, remove the big control valve and all vsv solenoids. Just leave the electrical connectors with nothing on them; it won't hurt them.

Remove the main throttle plate, but DO NOT remove or adjust the throttle position sensor!

Ok here I go - bit scary.

Photo shows under the air intake elbow, with two plates. The larger one plate opens with the throttle cable and the smaller plate is moved by the valve at the top of the photo.

Questions, questions!

a) It seems that taking out the smaller plate is not worth it if the large one is removed?
b) Is there no need to regulate air flow in at all? So the only thing changed by pressing the accelerator is more fuel injenction?
c) Will any of this create a problem when turning off the engine - is removing the incoming air not part of what shuts a diesel engine down?

Apologies if any of this is very basic - I'm the midlife mechanic!

Thanks in anticipation for any clues.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Ok here I go - bit scary.

Photo shows under the air intake elbow, with two plates. The larger one plate opens with the throttle cable and the smaller plate is moved by the valve at the top of the photo.

Questions, questions!

a) It seems that taking out the smaller plate is not worth it if the large one is removed?
b) Is there no need to regulate air flow in at all? So the only thing changed by pressing the accelerator is more fuel injenction?
c) Will any of this create a problem when turning off the engine - is removing the incoming air not part of what shuts a diesel engine down?

Apologies if any of this is very basic - I'm the midlife mechanic!

Thanks in anticipation for any clues.

View attachment 2995120

You're doing great!

I just left the little one, as it hangs open anyhow once the actuator is removed. The large one slides out of the throttle shaft once you remove the two screws. The screws might be stuck and need to be drilled out (they are loctite in).

I know it seems weird if you're used to gas engines, but I guarantee there will only be good things when you remove that throttle plate.

Main thing is DON'T do anything to adjust or remove the throttle positions sensor.

 

[midlifemechanic]

You're doing great!

I just left the little one, as it hangs open anyhow once the actuator is removed. The large one slides out of the throttle shaft once you remove the two screws. The screws might be stuck and need to be drilled out (they are loctite in).

I know it seems weird if you're used to gas engines, but I guarantee there will only be good things when you remove that throttle plate.

Main thing is DON'T do anything to adjust or remove the throttle positions sensor.

Ok - I'm going to go for it. Hope to report back with good news soon!

I wonder if anyone has considered fitting an air intake shut off valve to protect against diesel engine runaway as part of this delete? The throttle valve being the only barrier between engine and outside air....

 

[IanB]

Many older diesels have no throttle plate at all, diesels use exactly as much air as they need, throttle plates are only used to smooth shut downs.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Many older diesels have no throttle plate at all, diesels use exactly as much air as they need, throttle plates are only used to smooth shut downs.

And create vacuum to draw in EGR gasses at idle....

Euro 2LT-II has no throttle plate (cause no EGR). I believe it's same for the Euro 1KZ-T. They both have a way better reputation oddly.

 

[Dedalliance]

Thanks.

I really need to re-write the first post in this thread. I've learned so much since I wrote it. It was basically my preliminary ideas and preconceptions, but now I've tried everything and gained a lot of knowledge. Ugh, with work and family it's so hard to find time these days.

This may have already been answered but what radiator are you using / would you recommend? I have a 1992 surf 2.4l automatic. I already have a trans cooler but having a hard time finding a radiator that'll fit in the US.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

This may have already been answered but what radiator are you using / would you recommend? I have a 1992 surf 2.4l automatic. I already have a trans cooler but having a hard time finding a radiator that'll fit in the US.

I have a custom re-core. It's 4 core, 60mm thick, and to be honest I'm not happy with it for what it is and what it cost. I had better cooling from a 2 core that was about 56mm thick. Not sure why the difference (wish I knew!). I've tried four different rads now. One was an aluminum chinese one that actually worked pretty good; I just didn't like the fitment. Maybe there as some chinese ones available for the Surfs? (My vehicle is a landcruiser prado).

 

[Dedalliance]

I have a custom re-core. It's 4 core, 60mm thick, and to be honest I'm not happy with it for what it is and what it cost. I had better cooling from a 2 core that was about 56mm thick. Not sure why the difference (wish I knew!). I've tried four different rads now. One was an aluminum chinese one that actually worked pretty good; I just didn't like the fitment. Maybe there as some chinese ones available for the Surfs? (My vehicle is a landcruiser prado).

This is the dimensions of the link to the one I sent you that I'm considering.

 

[Dedalliance]

I have a custom re-core. It's 4 core, 60mm thick, and to be honest I'm not happy with it for what it is and what it cost. I had better cooling from a 2 core that was about 56mm thick. Not sure why the difference (wish I knew!). I've tried four different rads now. One was an aluminum chinese one that actually worked pretty good; I just didn't like the fitment. Maybe there as some chinese ones available for the Surfs? (My vehicle is a landcruiser prado).

Well I did find this one it's a "KOYO 48MM RACING RADIATOR: SKYLINE KGC10 W/L20 68-72" I can get it for about $450 USD it's the only one with overall dimensions that I can find that fits but I haven't really looked at side flow radiators I'm not sure if they'd be better or worse performance. The surfs have 2 frame rails that run all the way to the front of the vehicle and they're about 22 1/2" wide so anything wider has to sit on top of them but then that pushes most radiators into the hood, or it's too wide and runs into other stuff. I have found some other radiators that would fit but the inlet hole on the top is on the opposite side of what I need and would require a pretty tight turn to make it and it'd go right over the radiator fan which seems like a bad idea. The only problem I have with the one I linked you is the top and bottom tank things on it are really big which then gives less surface area for the fins. The radiator that's in it now is a custom built Griffin radiator but it's got a slight pinhole leak but doesn't seem to leak any water just didn't pass a smoke test, and the previous owner some how ballooned it causing the vertical fins to crush the little fins that go across and it doesn't get full airflow now. I'd get another one of those but it was a 1,400 radiator and I'm cheap lol. But that radiator has a built in transmission cooler too for automatic. But I'm gonna go with an external transmission cooler so the radiator has less heat to deal with. I just really want to get something that's going to be solid I'm not going to push this thing too much just wanted a fun off roader / overland kind of camping vehicle not an every day driver but I do live in Colorado where we have 12 to 14k foot mountain passes that I'd like to be able to go up without over heating, and then of course on trails. Plus if I took it to like moab or something where it's hot. But I don't need to tow with it or do 70 mph up hills I'll probably do a couple mods you've outlined here to help with power and egts. It's already egr deleted from the previous owner but I'm not sure how quality of a job they did. I just had the motor pulled and put back together with all new seals, head gasket basically everything that wasn't super internal. It doesn't over heat now with the bad radiator but it sits at 210 and pushes 220 maybe sometimes just doing slight off road stuff and fairly flat highway speeds. I really just want to protect my new seals from being over heated.

 

[Dedalliance]

I have a custom re-core. It's 4 core, 60mm thick, and to be honest I'm not happy with it for what it is and what it cost. I had better cooling from a 2 core that was about 56mm thick. Not sure why the difference (wish I knew!). I've tried four different rads now. One was an aluminum chinese one that actually worked pretty good; I just didn't like the fitment. Maybe there as some chinese ones available for the Surfs? (My vehicle is a landcruiser prado).

Also, I'm curious what EGT gauge you have and or would recommend? That's probably going to be my next upgrade along with a new exhaust system I got an Areoturbine 40x40XL muffler I believe. It's a little big but it was free so that's what's going on there lol.

I'd also love to pick your brains sometime on an issue I'm having. My Surf's hard to start up I have to hold the key over in the crank position and it'll crank for oh maybe 10 seconds and then I can start pumping the gas pedal and it'll eventually probably 5-10 seconds later start reving up then it'll stay running and I can release the key to the run position. Which is obviously not good for my starter. I have all new glow plugs or whatever you wanna call them I replaced the Glow plug relay box fuse thing then I replaced the glow plug fuse itself and still nothing seems to help it. It could be an issue that a wire is hooked up wrong or something isn't getting power or isn't grounded properly maybe? I had the engine taken out rebuilt and put back in so everything should work but it doesn't seem to be working. I do have a check engine light on but I don't have an old style reader thing to plug in because it's not an OBD2. I hope I can take it to the Toyota dealer and have them plug in something to see what codes it has but until then I'm kind of at a loss. Once it's running it runs pretty good a little rough of an idle but if I turn on high idle then it smooths itself out. One thing is I did have probably year old diesel sitting in the tank because it was at the shop for awhile and parts were delayed and everything but I have fresh fuel in it now and am running Amsoil injector cleaner to see if that helps clear out maybe any old gelled fuel out of the system but I'll probably only know after running a couple more tanks through.

Anyway, thanks for any information you can help with. I really want this thing to be reliable for many years.

 

[IanB]

Also, I'm curious what EGT gauge you have and or would recommend? That's probably going to be my next upgrade along with a new exhaust system I got an Areoturbine 40x40XL muffler I believe. It's a little big but it was free so that's what's going on there lol.

I'd also love to pick your brains sometime on an issue I'm having. My Surf's hard to start up I have to hold the key over in the crank position and it'll crank for oh maybe 10 seconds and then I can start pumping the gas pedal and it'll eventually probably 5-10 seconds later start reving up then it'll stay running and I can release the key to the run position. Which is obviously not good for my starter. I have all new glow plugs or whatever you wanna call them I replaced the Glow plug relay box fuse thing then I replaced the glow plug fuse itself and still nothing seems to help it. It could be an issue that a wire is hooked up wrong or something isn't getting power or isn't grounded properly maybe? I had the engine taken out rebuilt and put back in so everything should work but it doesn't seem to be working. I do have a check engine light on but I don't have an old style reader thing to plug in because it's not an OBD2. I hope I can take it to the Toyota dealer and have them plug in something to see what codes it has but until then I'm kind of at a loss. Once it's running it runs pretty good a little rough of an idle but if I turn on high idle then it smooths itself out. One thing is I did have probably year old diesel sitting in the tank because it was at the shop for awhile and parts were delayed and everything but I have fresh fuel in it now and am running Amsoil injector cleaner to see if that helps clear out maybe any old gelled fuel out of the system but I'll probably only know after running a couple more tanks through.

Anyway, thanks for any information you can help with. I really want this thing to be reliable for many years.

4" exhaust is WAY TOO BIG for a 2.4L 4cyl diesel, free or not, that's the wrong muffler to base an exhaust system around.

2.5" or 3" is where you want to be for best results IMO.

 

[Dedalliance]

4" exhaust is WAY TOO BIG for a 2.4L 4cyl diesel, free or not, that's the wrong muffler to base an exhaust system around.

2.5" or 3" is where you want to be for best results IMO.

Yeah I was thinking just doing 3"

4" exhaust is WAY TOO BIG for a 2.4L 4cyl diesel, free or not, that's the wrong muffler to base an exhaust system around.

2.5" or 3" is where you want to be for best results IMO.

 

[Dedalliance]

4" exhaust is WAY TOO BIG for a 2.4L 4cyl diesel, free or not, that's the wrong muffler to base an exhaust system around.

2.5" or 3" is where you want to be for best results IMO.

4" exhaust is WAY TOO BIG for a 2.4L 4cyl diesel, free or not, that's the wrong muffler to base an exhaust system around.

2.5" or 3" is where you want to be for best results IMO.

My bad didn't mean to send that last message lol. This site is crazy with their pop up adds and my slow phone doesn't compute well so I'm always hitting random stuff. Anyway. I was thinking just doing a 3" exhaust but put the 4" muffler in I'd just need some 3 to 4" couplers to make it work. I didn't think it'd be a huge deal but I'm also no mechanic either so there's that.