SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (10 Viewers)

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Can someone help me out with figuring out a metric tire size? I am running 295/70/18, roughly a 34.5” tire. Trying to figure out a comparable size for my stock 20” spare. Not so much worried about width but want height to be close enough for obvious reasons. Curious what others are using. Thanks
 
Can someone help me out with figuring out a metric tire size? I am running 295/70/18, roughly a 34.5” tire. Trying to figure out a comparable size for my stock 20” spare. Not so much worried about width but want height to be close enough for obvious reasons. Curious what others are using. Thanks
Try this link

I use this size comparison tool frequently to find diameter equivalents
 
Can someone help me out with figuring out a metric tire size? I am running 295/70/18, roughly a 34.5” tire. Trying to figure out a comparable size for my stock 20” spare. Not so much worried about width but want height to be close enough for obvious reasons. Curious what others are using. Thanks
275/65R20 gets you within 6/32". See the comparison here: Rim and Tire Size Calculator

HTH
 
I am anole.
Anyone know where I can find this USB cover?
IMG_20220329_122529787.jpg
 
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If I had to guess, it isn't available as a separate part and you'll have to replace that whole plug assembly.
 
You can cut off the dust cap of the USB marine connectors. They are on amazon for like $10.
 
You can cut off the dust cap of the USB marine connectors. They are on amazon for like $10.
Cool.
I found a Chinese AUX USB that appears to have the same cover...

I will check this out as well.
Thanks.
 
So my stupid question of the day, I decided to grease the driveline on my new (to me) 200, since I doubt it's been done before, and after all I've read, I'm now thoroughly petrified of over-filling the slip yokes and destroying the transfer case. Now I know someone already asked a driveline greasing question in the SQOD thread, but my question is even a bit more stupid. The wisdom is to fill with grease unitl you see the slip yoke move, and my quesiton is:

What counts as movement???

I swear I'm slowly pumping grease into this thing staring at it with the same vehement intensity of my dog watching me fill his food bowl saying to myself "was that it??? did it move??? I think it might have moved a micron! was I seeing things???? maybe I'll add a little more......was that movement???? is that line of dust in the same place it was before or is there a fraction more space to the left of it now???"

So basically, dumb quesiton, is the "movement" obvious? Is it pretty clear that "oh ok, it definitely moved, that's enough grease" or is it a tiny minute movement I have to watch for very carefully?


orrrrrrrrr am I WAY overthinking this?
 
So my stupid question of the day, I decided to grease the driveline on my new (to me) 200, since I doubt it's been done before, and after all I've read, I'm now thoroughly petrified of over-filling the slip yokes and destroying the transfer case. Now I know someone already asked a driveline greasing question in the SQOD thread, but my question is even a bit more stupid. The wisdom is to fill with grease unitl you see the slip yoke move, and my quesiton is:

What counts as movement???

I swear I'm slowly pumping grease into this thing staring at it with the same vehement intensity of my dog watching me fill his food bowl saying to myself "was that it??? did it move??? I think it might have moved a micron! was I seeing things???? maybe I'll add a little more......was that movement???? is that line of dust in the same place it was before or is there a fraction more space to the left of it now???"

So basically, dumb quesiton, is the "movement" obvious? Is it pretty clear that "oh ok, it definitely moved, that's enough grease" or is it a tiny minute movement I have to watch for very carefully?


orrrrrrrrr am I WAY overthinking this?
I have pumped grease into those zerks many times wondering the same thing, I never ever see any movement no matter how much I pump in. Aggravating.

So what I do now is pump about 20-30 cycles on the air grease gun, then I remove the zerks (7mm socket). I set the zerks on a towel prominently on my bench in the garage, then drive the truck. Next time I come home, the towel reminds me and I crawl under and re-install the zerks. I figure letting the suspension cycle a few times relieves any build up pressure, and I will usually find about a tablespoon of grease slung under the truck, which I wipe most of it off.

That's my procedure anyway. Maybe @bloc has a better method.
 
I'd say you may be overthinking it. Pump a little in. Move on. Next time you service it, pump a little more in. I only do a half dozen pumps on a hand lever pump.
 
So my stupid question of the day, I decided to grease the driveline on my new (to me) 200, since I doubt it's been done before, and after all I've read, I'm now thoroughly petrified of over-filling the slip yokes and destroying the transfer case. Now I know someone already asked a driveline greasing question in the SQOD thread, but my question is even a bit more stupid. The wisdom is to fill with grease unitl you see the slip yoke move, and my quesiton is:

What counts as movement???

I swear I'm slowly pumping grease into this thing staring at it with the same vehement intensity of my dog watching me fill his food bowl saying to myself "was that it??? did it move??? I think it might have moved a micron! was I seeing things???? maybe I'll add a little more......was that movement???? is that line of dust in the same place it was before or is there a fraction more space to the left of it now???"

So basically, dumb quesiton, is the "movement" obvious? Is it pretty clear that "oh ok, it definitely moved, that's enough grease" or is it a tiny minute movement I have to watch for very carefully?


orrrrrrrrr am I WAY overthinking this?

Glad you're asking. Don't fill it until it moves, because at that point, you might have already hydraulically locked it form compressing.

Less is more and I would say 3-5 pumps is will do the job.
 
I personally want enough grease in there that centrifugal force will spread at least a little into all of the spline grooves, not just the ones around the zerk, and subsequent driving of the vehicle will make it flow out the root of all the grooves.

Eight to ten pumps for me, usually.
 
I personally want enough grease in there that centrifugal force will spread at least a little into all of the spline grooves, not just the ones around the zerk, and subsequent driving of the vehicle will make it flow out the root of all the grooves.

Eight to ten pumps for me, usually.

I'm sure that's well in the realm of fine. I have no idea what it takes to actually fill the chamber.

Where I'm coming from is that none of these slip yokes in operation come dry. They are lubricated well from the factory. Likely well enough to go a lifetime without good maintenance seeing how many of them in the field don't get any attention even though dealerships should be greasing them. Enough anecdotal evidence says that many don't bother greasing them at all.

A rig that sees any regular lube at all, is going to be way ahead. Trying to minimize the potential for impacts as well as keeping too much grease from being flung around the undercarriage.
 
I'm sure that's well in the realm of fine. I have no idea what it takes to actually fill the chamber.

Where I'm coming from is that none of these slip yokes in operation come dry. They are lubricated well from the factory. Likely well enough to go a lifetime without good maintenance seeing how many of them in the field don't get any attention even though dealerships should be greasing them. Enough anecdotal evidence says that many don't bother greasing them at all.

A rig that sees any regular lube at all, is going to be way ahead. Trying to minimize the potential for impacts as well as keeping too much grease from being flung around the undercarriage.
To your point, when I got my rig at 105k I’m confident the front driveshaft had never been lubed, based on how much grease the crosses took and the color of the stuff that came out immediately before fresh grease.

Granted, the ujoints and slip section up there see an easy life due to alignment and very little length change in operation, but still.. the design of the rig is such that we can treat these things badly and they’ll probably still have a great lifespan.

My number is 100% my gut feeling on what is needed to get the job done while not risking hydraulically locking things up. Nothing scientific. So far it’s working.. but yes I do get under there and clean extra grease off the undercarriage every time I do diff fluids.
 
My stupid question for today:

Has anybody found a good workaround to prevent accidentally hitting buttons on the key fob while it’s in your pocket?

I turned off my auto rear hatch opening/closing because I think I accidentally opened the hatch while the garage door was closed and it damaged the garage door.
And about once a week I hear the horn going off because I accidentally hit that button.

It’s nice to have the buttons but, in truth, I can’t think of the last time I used them.
So I could disable them by opening it up and removing the button part - but that seems so final.
Like I said, I like the functionality, I just don’t want it to happen accidentally.

Ps. I’m assuming the credit card fob has no buttons. But somebody please correct me if I assume too much.
 
Judging from my 80, about 300k miles is how long a neglected driveshaft will last before the slip yoke wears and starts to make ugly noises.
 
My stupid question for today:

Has anybody found a good workaround to prevent accidentally hitting buttons on the key fob while it’s in your pocket?

I turned off my auto rear hatch opening/closing because I think I accidentally opened the hatch while the garage door was closed and it damaged the garage door.
And about once a week I hear the horn going off because I accidentally hit that button.

It’s nice to have the buttons but, in truth, I can’t think of the last time I used them.
So I could disable them by opening it up and removing the button part - but that seems so final.
Like I said, I like the functionality, I just don’t want it to happen accidentally.

Ps. I’m assuming the credit card fob has no buttons. But somebody please correct me if I assume too much.
I have this trouble as well.. I've gone outside in the morning to find that I had activated the "roll all the windows" down feature unknowingly. "Disabling" could be as simple as removing the plastic button pad from the key and putting some tape over the holes from the inside. That would be perfectly reversible. Could try it out and see how often you really don't use the buttons. At that point you'd have the option to still push a button if you took the fob apart in a pinch. Also as an alternative, maybe adding some material between the plastic button pushers and the buttons might make it harder to push the buttons.
 

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